AWJ

Your average Lexus driver. *ducks behind monitor* Heh...

You can never have too much head. No problem gslx4s: but we should go into how these items are different. The head ports are different - designed for a sized factory turbo application. Likewise the valves are going to be different. In a turbo motor, overlap is to be avoided because reversion will kill power. With a turbo bolted up there is a high amount of pressure before the turbo at speed and this forces exhaust gas back into the chamber approaching tdc or just after. On an NA motor some overlap can actually help in the removal of burned gasses with a scavenging effect. Some ways to control overlap - cam timing and profile changes or modification. The stock cams on the ge actually perform very well in the turbo application at the stock power band. Should the rev limit be raised, then an alternate cam profile is advised. Also the head is set up for a 8.5:1 ratio on the GTE while the GE is 10:1. It is obvious why the exhaust manifolds are different I think. Likewise the intake manifolds are different because a denser, higher pressure air charge is going to cram equally into the sidemount intake plenum of the GTE and with pressure equal at all points in a pressurized system, delivery can be near equal to each cylinder even though the charge entrance is through a relatively small throttle body at the frontward most end of the plenum. While the over top design of the GE is ideal for NA application with variable runner lengths for good low end torque and good high range power featuring a large twin chamber mass air entrance across the entire length of the plenum, at moderate boost levels, this manifold performs extremely well. There is no major drawback to using the GE head as opposed to the GTE head on moderate turbo applications - read 500+ hp. Ask me how I know. ;) The guys making over 600 hp tend to begin to consider side mount intakes and aggressive cam profiles suited to high 25+ pounds of boost and drag race only applications. If the rpm band is extended, then cam profiles are considered. Lets not forget that the GTE head can be bolted to the GE block and vice versa. I'm not sure of cooling and oil channel differences but I know it has been done with success by others. Same the 1jz head and 2jz blocks. Of course it is pointless to put a 2jz head on a 1jz block. It is also sensless to do the 1.5 jz set up when a full 2jz is available. The pistons - both the GE and GTE are resin coated forged pistons - very strong for a factory motor. The difference in the pistons for the GTE is that they are dished to help create a 8.5:1 compression ration while the GE pistons are flat top for a 10:1 compression ratio. I feel absolutely confident that at 10:1 as much as 19 pounds can be run without detrimental failure on a well tuned system. I've done it. Of course there are several factors here and above 15 psi at 10:1 is risky - but I maintain that with a correctly dialed in set-up, stock compression can be retained with success at high boost. Turbo size/flow rates need to be accounted for as well as fuel delivery. The crank is the same. I don't know why you say it is different. The same bullet proof forged unit with 7 bolt mains. The rods are also forged pieces in both motors. The only difference is some incorporated oil squirters on the big end bearing side. What cooling jackets are different? There are oil squirters for the rods and pistons that are not in the GE. I may be mistaken but I do beleive the water flow is the same in both motors - if not sue me. The GTE is a minimally stronger base unit than the GE. It is not more motor. They are both 3.0 liter motors with different applications. In fact, I might argue that the GE motor is more to play with because of the higher compression. You get more output for pound of boost. 12 psi at 10:1 will run away from 12 psi at 8.5:1 especially with the 5 speed shorter gears. If you ask me, I think GReddy should produce a na-t kit for the GE motor to run a moderate 10psi with possibly upgrades just like they do for the GTE. Featuring the stainless manifold, T series turbos, 6 larger injectors, fuel pump, rail and intercooler. I think this could be a lucrative endeavor. I could design and market it. B) UCF3: My forced induction experience is a long and twisted story. The current vehicle was purchased already turbocharged. The previous vehicle is the one I was piceing a kit together for to install on my own. I never made it. The car was lost. I sold the parts. But I had bought a Performance Factory turbo header, dp with closed loop deltagate, drilled an tapped oil pan, I was looking at a new turbo from sp - the 57 to 63 size, I had a custom ported stock fuel rail that I sold to www.turboforums.net (a good example of success on a GE by the way), - basically on go fast parts I had spent a total of 2g's and I was not far from having a complete set-up aside from injectors, intercooler, and management wich could have easily been purchased for a grand total of 3 g's with a little bit of hard looking at used or new reduced price components. I had been quoted $7,500 for a drive in drive out NA-T conversion from Sound Performance in Chicago which I feel would be a fair price. They do very good work there and are well respected. They gave me tour and were very helpful. When I do more work, It will be with their shop. My plans for the future include a TRD limited slip differential, revised fuel system and sp60 or similar turbo with .7 ish a/r hot side ratio and an extended rpm range up to 10 k and - the list doesn't end folks....

Just for clarification - all cars have a differential. That is how the drive force of a longitudinally mounted motor is diverted horizontally across the axle. Most cars have an open differential wich allows for one wheel, usually the wheel with least traction to spin independant of the other. A limited slip differential will allow some slip but will also lock and make both wheels turn at a standstill regardless of traction available.

Honestly, I would feel hardpressed to improve on the stock tail lights. IMHO, the 92-94 and 95-97 tailights are the best as they came from the factory.

Greetings - shrink your picture using ms paint or a similar program to 100 by 100 pixels. Save it as a jpeg. Then go to My Controls in the upper right hand of your screen. Look on the left side and there is selection for avatar. Click there and upload the 100 by 100 pixel jpeg and you should be set. If you have any more trouble - go to the site help/suggestions forum and someone may be able to do it for you. Good luck. ;)

Cool. B)

Any good mc rolls in a Lexus.

Yea - get a turbo. That is the best bang for the buck. 2k model is obd nightmare though. Not at all impossible. If I wanted more power and fast 0-60 that is where I'd go. The other stuff is a waste. But the ram intakes and exhausts look nice. You'll need a big exhaust if you go turbo anyways so you could get a shiny one while your at it. ;) But in the end - do what you like. That's what matters. Welcome to the club. Enjoy. B)

I came across something called the Players Run. It might be more my style without as much of the outrageous displays of gross fortune. Of course, I'm not sure if I want to challenge the authorities in such a manner. It has gone unsuccessful for me in the past. :(

Yes, welcome. I'm running 6 to 19 pounds of boost depending on who's beside me in a SC300 in OH/NKY region with strictly performance modifications at this point. Thanks for getting the fellas riled up. ;) Bring your friends. Enjoy the site. :) I have one of the referrals as well but have drawn many more than just 1. But that is not my true motivation anyways.

Welcome to the club. Traction control is an option on automatic transmission equipped SC's. Chances are that if there is no button on the gear selector then your vehicle is not equipped with it. The owners manual is a generic manual to cover all options. To verify, you may pop the hood and look on the throttle body and there should be a badge that indicates traction control as an option. There will also be an extra solenoid near the throttle plate that is the actuator for trac.

Either vehicle is a good choice in my opinion. The main noticeable changes are the front, the tail lights, the cupholder and the fog light switch from cornering lights operation. 1992 Model Introduction of Lexus SC400 SC400 4.0-liter (242 cubic inches.), four-cam, 32-valve 90° V8 Horsepower at rpm, 250 hp @ 5,600 rpm. Torque at rpm 260 lb-ft @ 4,400 rpm. 0-60 mph acceleration 6.9 seconds. 1/4-mile acceleration 15.3 seconds. Top track speed 150 mph. Fuel consumption 18/22 mpg City/Highway. Aerodynamic drag coefficient 0.32 ,0.31 with opt. rear spoiler 4-Speed automatic Electronically Controlled Transmission with intelligence (4ECT-i), with power/normal shift modes. Rear-wheel drive (optional Traction Control System). 4-wheel independent, double-wishbone suspension. Vehicle speed-sensing, progressive power rack-and-pinion. 4-wheel ventilated, power-assisted anti-lock discs (ABS). 1995 Model Revised front air dam; extension deleted. Revised tail lamps. New wheel design. Cornering lamps replaced with foglamps. Audible remote entry. Revised power passenger seat. Parking brake handle moved 0.4-inch farther away from driver's seat. Climate control and audio system displays changed from green to amber. Outside temperature gauge added. Second cupholder added. Revised audio system. Meets 1997 side impact standards. Slight suspension and steering retuning. New noise-control measures added. Ivory instrument panel changes hue. New interior-trim colours: Black Leather replaces Gray Leather New exterior colours: Renaissance Red, Platinum Silver Metallic and Teal Mist Metallic.

Not a problem with that. You don't know unless you ask. ;) Good luck - and definitely let us know what the outcome is. AJ

My baby is dormant sleeping under cover. She needs a new or rebuilt power steering pump and I suspect the tranny front main seal is leaky. My high boost dyno is at 353.x hp and 374 ft lbs. I think it is at 12 psi but not sure. I've boosted to 19psi and now it is set at 6psi for daily driving wich is never. That is detuned according to the previous owner. I bought the car set-up already. I will redyno the car when I get a chance and try to squeeze 400 rwhp out of it. What is your timing advance and a/f ratio? Your tranny should hold fine - I'd strongly recommend a torque converter and tranny cooler. Not sure what I will wind up doing to it. The engine bay needs a little detail work and I will do what I can. But I want to get some track times first. So will probably wait until November to tear into it. I will be tearing the whole turbo set-up down and cleaning it up and rebuilding because I don't really have money for upgrades at this point. Then next season I'm going to run it all season and go from there. I'm looking for a limited slip differential as my next big upgrade. I have some supra TT calipers and rotors to install and a whole bunch of other items I'd like to hit like bushings and bars and suspension. It's a money pit. I should have some good numbers by October. There is another turbo lexus in my area that I will try to meet up with. I'll get pictures once all this starts going.

HRE tire rack Enkei kinesis For starters.

I've got the same bottle of Mother's I've been using since 2001. I'll try the 3 stage zaino stuff when I get a chance. If I ever get a chance. I've always like Mother's products. Meguire's is good too. I just don't see a real difference in products. It is more technique in my opinion. But It's been a while since I got out of detailing.

Here is a diagram of offset and related items. Please consult more with a wheel shop or distributor for further clarification. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Did your mechanic replace the fluid with the correct toyota type IV tranny fluid? This is a must as some declare. I've never owned a auto toyota so I don't know but others maintain that this fluid is proprietary and that there is no replacement or cross reference for this fluid. If he did use the correct fluid, then a transmission issue may be at hand. As far as exactly what - that is to be determined. Is your transmission leaking any fluid? You may have to bite the bullet and take it in to a Lexus dealer - although I would recommend getting several opinions and if there is a good transmission shop available to you to utilize their services as well.

Chris, Welcome to the club. You are looking at a very wonderful car. I don't think that price is unreasonable. Of course, the condition of the vehicle will determine the value. Only those that see it can tell for sure. I merged your thread with another very similar one because it covers most of the issues. Let us know if there is any other questions and good luck. AJ

I had enkei rs6 wheels on one of the 300's. Looked great. I've always liked enkei wheels. Other great brands are racing hart, nzo, hre, bbs, advan, kinesis, and the list goes on and on. What are looking for - bling factor or performance or both? I like 17 and 18 inch wheels while others like 19 and 20. Chrome is not my game although I have a special incline for chrome NZO Halo's. Fitment is also an issue. Do you want a staggered set-up. With 8 to 9 inch width up front and 9.5 to 10+ width in back? Are you going to upgrade your calipers in the future? I've got a supra tt brake kit so I need to consider this. I currently have supra TT wheels in two sets for my car. In the future I will get some nice wheels for show but that is long off. I will give some sites you can go check things out at. The faq should have recommendations for fitment and I will attatch a diagram for offset explanation and such. There is an unlimited amount of options. NZO distributor enkei discount tire direct This is the rs6 enkei in 18" by 8 +45 offset. I'll have to get the factory offset for the SC as I don't have it off hand. But 93-98 Supra offsets will work. Just tell the distributor of the wheels you are interested in what kind of car you are putting them on and they should be able to tell you what you need. If they can't, then don't buy wheels from them. Also, check classifieds at various sites for used wheels. I have never bought a set of new wheels. But - in retrospect, new wheels may be a better way to go. It all depends on the seller. I like to look in the classifieds at www.supraforums.com because there are always cool wheels for sale there.

10 hp where? In what range of rpm. How much torque? and where is the sacrifice. What other modifications? It doesn't help that the dyno is not available. I've never seen one with just an intake and exhaust. I have not looked near and far.

I hihgly disagree. The 2JZ-GTE is not way more motor than the 2JZ-GE. In fact, they are basically the same motor.

It depends - That is really low mileage - and if it is clean then I'd ask for 12 grand bones at least. If the seller is asking less and I wanted the 400, I'd snap it up in a heart beat. Age degradations - bushings, hinges, belts and soft seals. Electrical connections from oxidation. The power steering pump and water pump could be an issue - but not major for moderate mechanical work. Check the fuel filter and lines - brake lines (these should be fine but ya never know). Otherwise, I'd expect a car with this little mileage to be in great shape. They hold up extremely well.

Hey GMAN, no problem. I would like to develope an online source for all this stuff without the BS (if that is possible). Time is limited so I'll put it up as requests are filed. No one should ever leave. Feel free to contribute any wiring know how - being the the squad and all - I'm sure you know what wires to cut and the ones to leave alone ;) .

The Bomb Squad? Very interesting. Hope this helps. find it in the gallery as well. Daddy's girl huh? They are all problems. I don't call a free SC400 a problem though. Enjoy. Both of them.