AWJ

Notice I say everything was going very well. My roadblock came when I went to install my Goodrich stainless steel brake lines. Apparently, the goodrich female compression side was not going to go over the compression nut from the stock hard line. This was not good. The stock nut had to come off. But that meant I had to cut the stock ferrule off. Then I'm left with a stub hard line that needs a flare. To make matters worse, I could not find my digital camera, so I can't show you guys what I'm talking about. That is also why a lot of these pictures are general because they were taken after the fact. This is no place to goof around. I was worried. I had to go to bed to think on it. And I had to work in the morning. <_<

Here's the caliper and everything. I started to become amazed at this point. Everything was going very well.... Or so it would seem eh? I think the brake parts cleaner can got high on fumes and had trouble standing. <!--emo&--><!--endemo--> You guys will want to do this with the garage door open.

So where are we now.... Ready to mount the tt rotors I geuss. Put them on there. It is handy to use one of the lugs to secure it for the time being. Grab your new shiny TT caliper. Once you are done admiring it close up, put it over the hub and use the old bolts to bolt it up on there over the rotor. mmmm... Starting to look real good. Do you like my mechanic's seat? :whistles: I think some of my blood is on the cardboard down there with all that old brake fluid. I said a couple times.

At this point I took some time to clean up the hub and arms a little bit. I used some citrus blast and a wire brush and scrubbed until I got bored. A lot of crap came off. It looked pretty good. But could have gotten a lot better. But then it just gets dirty again. So I quit. But not before I used my dremel with a wire brush attachment to scrub the lug threads and hub face free of crap. Then, I disconnected the brake line from the caliper. Brake fluid is going to leak out. No way around it. Things start to get messy here. *Never pump the brakes with a caliper dismounted or on an open brake line.* These line bolts are tight. Be very careful not to strip them as you may need them later in the event of a problem. I tried to catch the run out fluid in a glass jar. Not much luck. I used carboard underneath to soak up any spills. Then undo the stock rubber line where it meets the hard line. Some wrestling, slipping and slamming knuckles will occur. I tried to wear these crappy gloves I have an abundance of, but they quickly become soaked with slippery brake fluid and dirt at this point in the game. Any time you disconnect the brake line, air is introduced. In order for your brake system to function correctly, this air must be removed. It is important to have an understanding of the brake bleeding procedure and or how brake/hydraulic systems operate. If this understanding is not had, do not do this. This is a life and death matter.

So you have the hub bare. That damn dust plate needs to come off cuz your new rotors are way too huge. Undo the 4 10mm bolts holding it. Cut the skinniest section. I had to make a few cuts and bend and pry and finally, it came off. Or you can take the hub off and remove it 1 piece. Cutting it is easier in my opinion. You can get the TT dust covers or fabricate your own. I my try to come up with something in the future.

You gotta whack that rotor. I used a rubber mallet because it won't ding the rotor and my rotors are still good. Who knows if I'll need them or someone else will in the future. The passenger side rotor was reluctant to come off. I sprayed more blaster around the lug studs and hub and anywhere I could to try and get in there. I let it set overnight and came back, whacked twice and it fell off. I got lucky. These things can really freeze up on there sometimes. We are fortunate though that there are two holes threaded for a 10mm bolt in the hat section of the rotor where two bolts can be threaded in to push off the hub plate and jack the rotor off of there. I had to use this method on the rear rotors.

Set the car on your jack stands in the recommended location. Make sure the car is stable. Now you got those lugs loose remember? Take them off and lift those front wheels off there. Check out your stock set-up. Dirty eh? That dust cover is going to need to come off too. But first, pull that caliper. The mid section comes out with two 12mm bolts in the back. Take it out. The carrier section comes out with two 14mm bolts. I used PB blaster to eat through some of the corrosion. I also blasted everything with brake cleaner before I got into it. Keep that cleaner away from the paint though. Here is a pic of this apart.

Get your tire iron out. Remove your wheel caps. Break those bolts free on the front wheels. Jack your car up with the floor jack in the recommended location.

It has been a few weeks since I finished the job but I have found some time to write about it now. A hydraulic floor jack is ideal and necessary. A torque wrench is recommended. Assorted millimeter box end wrenches and socket ratchet set. Pliers, metal cutters, a wire brush and depending on how far into cleaning a dremel. Also: Brake parts cleaner Carbuerator cleaner Brake fluid Funnel Rags Jack stands Rubber mallet All necessary parts for the job: TT calipers TT rotors TT pads, shims, clips Anti squeal rear rotors rear pads shims etc. Stainless steel lines Here I'll try to make some sense. Remember, your new TT brakes will only fit under the right wheel. 17 inches minimum. A supra TT offset will be needed to clear those calipers. They are insanely close to the inside of those wheels.

Ask him for his shocks too. If you buy coilovers, you can throw those springs you bought out. Good coil overs will offer their own springs.

JIC welds giving on strut tower bars and suspension components? That is not too good. TEIN HA. Do it.

What is this scandal with JIC now? I'm clueless - enlighten me.

'95 66,000

Wider wheels tend to follow longitudinal bumps and grooves in the road. That is noticed when those bumps or grooves are not perpendicular with the roadside. Other SC430 owners have reported benfits in handling with tire change.

You do know that soon it won't be enough. It seems like nothing to me - at 15 pounds. Two words: BIG SINGLE!!

Post a picture of the break if you can please. I guess you have an answer as to what is better then folks.

Try this friend. Good luck.

More pics here - from another car. See if you can find my ride - (there are two whole pics with it in there) Click here

I don't got no powered by honda stickers - .... oh... wait a minute

So we went on this rally thing and got back two days ago. It was supposed to start in Detroit run to Indy and then to Chicago. We rolled into Detroit just following the worst blackout in US history none the wiser. I was on empty having arrived at our destination and found that no gas station was able to pump gas. So here begins the dilemma. As one may imagine - no power = lots of problems. Ever seen a hotel building without lights? Pretty damn dark. Intro to the meet up and run day - mass confusion. Total loss. Finally 12 hours later - troop got moving with half the entrants never showing and some that did show gone awol. Not that I would blame them. Indy destination was cut out completely. We did get our talk about radios and finally secured enough gas to get to a gas station that was pumping. Of course they only had 86 and my baby needs 91+. Luckily, I had a bottle of 104 booster to spike with. But I suspect my plugs will need changing at least now after the run. Lots of comments about smoke plume when I gassed it. The run from Detroit to Chi-town was insane. Very fun. Cool to run in #'s with communication and what not. I'd do it again, but probably not with the company or leadership that was involved with this run. Long story short - totally botched run. We made the best of it. Pics here Sorry no road footage except for the end, the day we left chicago and ran into some high powered oposition. [Thought]Maybe a USLOC road rally would be a good idea?[/Thought]

Well Helder, what ride is that? Looks good there. My turbo is internall gated so it is a little more involved unfortunately. That will change in the future but for now <_< you know. The boost controller is an ebc. Made by DEB?? or something like that. Looks a lot like an HKS unit but never seen one like it before. You're right though. I need to check out all the connections and lines before anything else. Now I need to find the time.

Steve!!!! Hell yea dog! that is a TT. Extremely nice find my man. Keep us posted on your progress and take care of that masterpiece. Enjoy it my man.

Here was my old approach before the new wheels. daizen sway bars - front and rear lowers daizen bushings With the stock suspension, I was going to see how that would do. What I'm finding out with my new wheels is that the rear rubs on dips and hard turns. These are 265's*9.5 and +45. So the new list is: Daizen bars Daizen bushings JIC FLTA-2's or run 17"ers until I get it saved up (wich will be quite a while at this point) :8

OK. Stock TT motor? You running fcd and bcd? How'd ya hit 12? I'm going to have to get out to the track soon. The boost controller has been acting funny though ever since I got back. I hope my gate is not getting hoaky.

Welcome to the club. There are lots of options. If you are truly replacing everything, I would suggest going to an enclosed sub box in the turnk - a custom unit or whatever with two high quality 10" or 12" subs. Leave the stock speaker holes in the rear deck open for air movement - the head unit and components are up to you or the recommendations of your sound guys. Or you can go with the free air in the stock location, but not many will fit. I know kicker makes a competition 10" that will fit. Just consult with a reputable sound installation guy or do a lot of research depending on your goal. I'm not big on sound systems either. Check out our audio/video forum too. Good luck.