AWJ

Insurance companies value that stereo as well. It is or was the "premium" sound system. Frankly, the system is quite good. But not that good.

There are several people on e-bay and various forums with less than honorable intentions. This is why I no longer purchase parts from unknown sellers.

I'm truly sorry to hear about your loss. I went through the same thing. But used the experience to find an even better SC. I agree, if I was going to have a violent accident, I'd like to be in a zz chasis lexus. They crash excellent. I believe the car saved my life as well. Good luck.

Clean SC. The TT stoppers should work well there. I would advise that you check all items mention by the other posts here systematically to locate the cause of your problems. Good luck.

Spirit levels?? Interesting, tell me more. Are you talking about the sight glass levels on the headlights? I have no idea how they work. The headlights are fixed in position and there are no motors or anything on them, so your guess is as good as mine. There may be some sort of write up in the fsm. I'll check if I get a chance.

There is a method to displace the air in the tube as the fluid goes in the filler. Make sure this sytem is functioning correctly. Good luck.

There are systems available that have dvd/nav unit concealed in the trunk or under a seat and the only visible items are the screen. Try our audio/visual forum and search for dvd/navigation on the google.

Anything is possible. Not sure that it has been done though.

I'll definitely let you know if and when I'm in the area. But this rally will not occur until Spring '04. Just gauging interest. That would be the soonest I'd be in the area. For now at least, unless business brings me there sooner. ;)

Keep in mind, emissions, spare parts availability, rhd to lhd (the wiring harness is not going to work without splicing), and gauges. The wiring itself is enough to punk me out. Especially when there is equal to more power available with the existing powerplant.

I think it would be sweet as all .... Right now the old lady is giving me crap though because I promised her a cruise. I've began to check hotel packages though. I'll post details in the meets thread next week after I get some more stuff together. Maybe I'll just take two weeks off work. Rally down to PCB, book cruise for the next week. Leave the car in Miami and go on the cruise and drive back later. Oh my....

Try that 4-3 downshift at 50mph next to a WS6 while your runnin' 12 psi. Woooosh. Priceless.

I would also recommend the idea of putting a turbo system on the v8 if it is in good condition. The swap thing is going to cost a lot of money. Going from the 1uz to a 2jz is gonna be a pita.

That is about right. And the way it should be without some type of head work.

I've never had a problem meeting the rev limiter in a 5 speed or auto. The only way I know of to change the engine management is via standalone or companies like g-force or jet. At what rpm does your car cut?

Well, most machine shops will only deck, bore, hone, mill and do angle jobs - press and seat guide bushings and clean. There are some around that do specialize in motors but they are usually a part of a performance shop and cost $$. Balance an blueprinting is a great idea but is only practicle usually if the goals for the motor are to be a record breaker or the customer is rich. The 2jz though is over engineered. The stock components are stout and incredidbly strong. Why do you think you need a rebuild? Regardless, I don't know of a rebuild "kit". But call the dealership service shops. Maybe the parts department can help you out. If they are cooperative, ask them what they use to do a rebuild and if you can order those parts as a package. Chances are they will tell you to bring the car in for their service. You must have the factory service manual. This book tells you everything involved with the job. All the special service tools and what items to replace for wear and at what specification they have become worn. If you want to rebuild a motor with the intention of going boostin' then your goal needs to be considered. You can 350 to upwards of 500 horsepower on stock internals. 450 to 500 hp mark would warrant the consideration of lowering compression via means of head gasket. This the most followed method. 600hp mark warrants a considered change in pistons and rods. Then your tranny. Basically, if you drive like billy bad !Removed! and a bat out of hell 100% of the time - you are going to break something. No matter how much power you are running. Then from 500+ the chances of something breaking become exponential.

No glass as far as I know.

All those things have been done. Except moving the stock IC. There would be little point. The money it would cost for custom tubing would justify a new front mount.

It is adviseable to drain the coolant at least a little. I'd rather drain it than have antifreeze pooring over my valve cover. By passing the throttle body in theory and probably in reality, allows the air passing through the throttle body to be cooler because engine temp cooling fluid is not running through it.

Hey J, that's a killer idea. Try posting up in the meetings forum and see what we can generate. My SC is getting prepped to bed down for the winter though and go under the knife. But I can come out in my ricer. On another note, I am beginning to arrange plans for a rally to take place in March. It will begin in Cincinnati and end in Panama City Beach, Florida. With checkpoints in Lexington, Nashville and Atlanta. I will post more details in the meets forum shortly. Spring Break '04.

Come on out to Maysville I forgot you have to be a member to view that link. d'oh September 13 2003 50/50 Drawing Food and Drinks ~TOP 45 Cars/Trucks ~TOP 5 Bikes ~Best Chevy ~Best Ford ~Best Mopar ~Best Import ~Best Bike Goody bags for the first 100 entries Registration (3:00 – 4:30) $10 Awards at 8:00 P.M. Awesome Door Prizes every 10 Minutes! Starting @ 5:00 Autometer tach, Autometer Guages, Flowmaster mufflers, T-shirts, Hats, Jackets,and Much.. Much More!! ALL PROCEEDS BENEFIT CHILDREN WITH DISABILITIES Saturday September 13th, 2003 3:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m. Tom Browning Boy’s and Girl’s Club Maple Leaf Road Maysville, KY. 41056 not responsible for accidents no alcohol Come on out to Maysville - show off those hot wheels you guys have See you there. B)

Lithium grease is your friend. Also, your door can be adjusted if it possibly has sagged down a little over time. And then you can replace/repair the hinge assy., but it is a pita.

You can bypass the throttle body. Mine is.

Your TT brake assy. will go together like this. The pads clips and shims will load in from the top of the caliper after it is mounted onto the rotor. I drew this picture.... :whistles: Not.

So I went to autozone at lunch the next day. I took the brake line and got some metric hard tube to match it. I liked it because it had two male fittings on a 4 inch long flared hard line. I also got some compression fittings to match because I had a feeling I would need them. So I had these nifty little pieces but no way to assemble them. I cut the stock ferrule off the stock hardline in the wheel well with a small hack saw. Sprayed clean. Then filed the edges. I cut the store bought hardline with some pipe cutters to a length just long enough to fit the new compression nut and enough room for the other compression piece. I then used this rig to compress joint onto the stock hard line. I used the stock clips from the stock lines to resecure the new stainless lines in the bracket and routed them clear of any moving stuff. This compound compression was a little shady, but I have done lots of work on hydraulic systems and was very confident in my work. I would not recommend this be done by anyone else that is not certified. The best way would have been to completely replace the hard line after bending things correctly. I will do this eventually. After bleeding and pressure testing, there were no leaks. It worked well. The compression set up is in the upper left corner of this picture where the brass nuts are.