SpeedRacer959

Awesome! Thanks for the great info. I went out and bought a nice craftsman torque-wrench to do the job right. It goes up to 250 ft. lbs. so I should be able to get those big ones back in tight! :) Thanks so much for your help. This LOC board rocks because of people like you.

I've begun disassembling the Lexus (and taking pictures along the way for later use), but I have a question. There are two large bolts that were a complete b*tch to get out. I'm wondering if when I put the new struts back in, do those have to be tensioned to a certain amount? Or is just "tight as you can get 'em" ok? I plan on putting lock-tight on the bolts to prevent them from coming off, because if they did, it would probably be deadly. Also, I plan on really wrenching down on those suckers so they don't even think about coming off. If I have to buy a torque wrench I will though. Thanks, Jimi

amf1932, Thanks for the info. You seem to know a lot about that...have you done it before or do you have one of those good manuals? Also, what special tools do you need? I didn't see the need for them in any of the steps you highlighted below... <_< I think I'm going to do it. I'll wait until a cooler day though, it's 95 here today! Too hot for me to even be outside let alone work. Also, I'll take pictures and document the process, then post it on LOC board for the next person who desires to do it themself. Someone did that for the Radio Removal and Installation and that was absolutely a life saver. Thanks, Jimi PS. any more advice would me MUCH appreciated. :)

Not sure if it's the same, but mine is right under the steering wheel down by the pedals.

I just bought two struts from the junkyard that are complete units with the springs and all. I plan on making a swap w/ mine. I would rather not take it to the local mechanics for this one just because I highly doubt they will take the time to hook everything up right...such as the electronic portion. And I don't want them inside my car tearing stuff out half-hazardly. Thus I figure I have two options: 1. Ask you guys where to start, buy the appropriate tools & manuals and do it myself. :magic: 2. Take it to lexus <_< and my future kids won't be able to attend college. :( and I may have to sell the house. My questions are: 1. Do you have to take the back seats out to remove the struts? If so, is this hard? 2. Has anyone done this before and could clue me in on where to start? I figure it'll need an alignment when I'm done, I'll take it in for that obviously though. Thanks for any help. :)

Think 4 wheel alignment after you drop it. Should run you about $80 at a Non-Lexus service center...God knows how much at lexus. <_<

Sounds like you could have a vacuum line come off or something preventing cold start acceleration. I've heard of this happening on other cars, so it could be similar problem w/ the Lexus. If you have the money, take it into the neares shop ASAP and let them know the symptoms. W/ my lexus you could be in frigid cold it'll still go like a bat-outta-hell. Something's off. <_< Let us know what they find out... -Jimi

I wonder if it has something to do w/ the thermostat? Because it seems to vary w/ temperature so I wonder if maybe the thermostat sticks and doesn't engauge the right fuel injectors for the right temperator? Might be a place to start.

Check this auction out: Only $5 a piece w/ shipping if you won it for $12.95. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2427873843

Steve, I did that yesterday. Whilst on a business trip we stopped to get something to eat and ate in the car. We finished eating, then I reached for the key and started it up...again. Immediately I heard the screaming starter kick in and that disrupted the engine enough to kill it. My business parter looked at me w/ discust. Maybe they should have engineered a small vibration into the car so you could tell it's running! Do the new cars have the protection so you can't restart it when it's running...just curious.

I still have a few months before I have to decide. I'll watch the reviews on those too and decide then. I think the LOC needs a section for the most popular upgrades for cars for performance or just keeping it stock but a little better...or maybe not. just a thought.

Man, you're wife has expensive taste. My wife is in love w/ the Honda Oddesy van. (lucky me) That leaves some money left over for me to upgrade soon to the GS! I wonder why Lexus doesn't make manual an option anymore for sporty cars like the GS. That would be an awesome car then for a LOT of people. Big, roomy, comfy, reliable, and a manual. As far as I know, only BMW makes that package w/ the M5. Maybe Mercedes does too, but I'm not a fan yet of them. Lexus guy through and through. :)

Got my 1997 ES for $8100...fully loaded w/ the options below plus new tires on it when I bought it and tinted windows. Sweet condition too for a car that's 6 years old. It only has 3 tiny dings in the drivers side door that are hardly noticable. When I pulled up to look at it I knew I was going to buy it right away. It was hard keeping my composure while I negotiated a deal. If he could read my mine he would have up'ed the price. :D

Just bought a K&N Filter for $35 online w/ the recharge kit. I told my wife it'll pay for itself the first year. crossing my fingers it make a difference! :)

Probably just your belt needs to be tightened to the proper tension. VERY easy fix on all the other cars I've had, but I've not tried it on the Lexus yet. Usually involves loosening one bolt on the alternator and using something to pry it up some to increase the tension slightly. Should remedy the problem. :)

SW03ES, Those tires look like they are the best of all worlds, wet, snow, and dry. I'm probably going to put those on my lexus before this winter. They are cheap too. Only $109 for 225/45R17 Thanks! -Jimi

Yeah, I like the IS too. It has a lot of potential, plus you can get it in manual...gotta love that. I wish ES's came in manual these days. <_<

Elronse, You're on the right track w/ the K&N air filter. That should up your mileage to 26-28 MPG. Tires: Read all the reviews before you buy. Tirerack has an excellent review system so you can get the tire that's perfect for what you want.... Quiet-n-comfy :D Windows: I use Meguires tire dressing. It's like a silicone lotion that goes on your tires, but works great at treating the window seals. They hardly make any noise for at least two weeks after using it. Any silicone-based window treatment will work, but some leave more residue than others. Mine doesn't leave any residue after a couple days. Lexus can adjust your windows to make them fit tighter agains the seal, which will probably help significantly if there is a tension problem. The issue is people shut the door by putting force on the window and it flexes it out of alignment so it becomes loose. It's a fairly easy problem to correct. If the issue is a bad seal, you can buy a new one for $70 per side from lexus. It's all one piece on my car, so I suspect it's the same on a 1996. Suspension: Also, I wouldn't "upgrade" your suspension at all from stock. If it needs anything replace it with stock components or something that's the same. (i.e. gas shocks for gas shocks) Lexus is known for it's good ride and I highly doubt that there's a product that will signicantly improve ride with no other adverse effects that the Lexus engineers haven't thought of. As I see it, everything is a balance. If you want a good ride you sacrifice performance. Good performance, you sacrific a good ride. The cars are usually at a perfect balance when they are stock. Good luck w/ it. The lexus I own is the 1st one as well, and it's by FAR the nicest car I've ever owned (good price too). I feel pampered everytime I get in it. I'm sure I'll be a Lexus owner for life. Cheers!

If the leather has been recently replaced or you use armorall in the car, the vapors given off will product the same effect on the windows...hazy mess. I have a 1997 that gets hazy windows. I suspect it's from the leather conditioner I put on the seats. Also, my mom had an Acura Legend that had all the leather interior replaced and it made the window accumulate film like mad. I just use lots windex and it works well, just make sure you have lots of clean towels. Dirty towels do no good...just smear. Oh, that gives me a good idea. Steps that one should follow when cleaning glass! Pre-step: Make sure windows are cool to the touch and in the shade before starting. Step 1. spray on a huge amount of glass cleaner. Step 2. use 1 clean paper towel saturated in glass cleaner to smear the cleaner into the hard to reach spots, sides, and all over the window. It should be real messy at this point. Step 3. grab like 3 dry paper towels and start on one side of the glass and work your way to the other side making sure to not miss spots Step 4. wait for that to dry completely. Use 2 more paper towels to buff off any residue. Oh, and I heard that using a newspaper to buff will help. It's something to due w/ the ink. Never tried it though. Good luck, I'm going to go clean my window and check my cabin filter today now after reading these posts. -Jimi

I put a Drawtight hitch on my car and now I can add a hitch rack w/out the bikes touching my car. It's really the best solution. The hitch just bolts on in like 5 minutes. Oh, and it only costs like $89 plus shipping, which for Lexus, seems cheap. Doesn't look bad either and ads rear bumper protection. :D http://www.drawtite-hitches.com I'll post a picture of it if you like. -Jimi

Click on "My Controls" at the top of the page. Then you'll see options to edit your profile to the left side of the screen. There are no dumb questions, just dumb people (for not asking them). B)

I would call around and use the professional paintless dent removal people. They use special tools and drill small (very small) access holes if needed to get to the back side of the metal and work from there. My buddy had a Porsche Boxster that someone dented in a grocery store parking lot by sitting a gallon of milk on his fender (rude...I know). The dent removal people came out to where he works, took the dent out and only charged something like $30. It was well worth it because you couldn't see where the dent was when they were done. Good Luck.

If by heat damage you're talking about the engine overheating, then you need to look for smoke when you rev the car up. Look for smoke also when the car is driving under a load, like up a hill or something. Lexus shouldn't ever smoke so if you see it, then it could need rings or worse. Other than that, listen to it. You shouldn't hear any weird ticking or pinging when it's running, those could be signs that the valves are out of sync, sticking, or are not closing all the way whe it's running. Also, it might be worth spending the money to have an authorized mechanic look at it. Believe me, if a Lexus isn't taken care of, it can be VERY costly to bring it back to life.. good luck, Jimi

That spoiler looks awesome! I think some are cheezy though... ;)

I just threw 225's on the back so now they don't rub. Now I need to go get 225's for the front so it doesn't look so goofy. :) FYI everyone.... I believe 225's is the biggest you can go on the ES300. Possibly 245's but I wouldn't try. The 255's rub pretty bad in the back. Oh, the car handles like a dream now. It sticks to the road like glue. I really missed that since I sold my Celica GT w/ 17" ZR rated tires. I pulled some heavy G's on the way home from the tire store today. I was testing to see if the rear tires rubbed and was really surprise at how well the car handles w/ 17" street tires. It really reminds me of my Celica GT. It just doesn't seem right to have a car that doesn't handle like that. :D I recommend big wheels/good tires to all! :magic: