Sunbeam

Thanks amf1932!!!

I had a tire destroyed today from a rock in the road (the sidewall got punctured). I put the damaged tire/wheel in my trunk, put the spare on, brought the pressure up and "initialized" the tire pressure warning system with that little button buried all the way down. But I still get that inflation warning light. Can someone confirm that, indeed, the system looks at all 5 tire/wheels. And if this is the case, would the light go off if I removed the damaged tire/wheel from the trunk until I get the tire replaced. Thanks!!!

I've got exactly the same rattle from the same place. I know I must get it repaired (it really wrecks the driving experience) but I'm also concerned about them pulling apart the entire dash. Do you know what they did to repair it? Is there a tech service bulletin on it? Thanks!

My 98 ES has 120K miles and had all the struts etc replaced at around 50K. Going over bumps I hear what I can only describe at as "clunks" coming from the front or left front. I brought the car to our local mechanic and then Toyota. The local mechanic found nothing wrong and Toyota only said a single bushing needed to be replaced (which was done). But the sound continued. Any thoughts? BTW is the test for bad sturts the same as the old test for shocks? (push down hard and see if it returns without excessive bouncing). Thanks all!

For the past few months, I would occasionaly (not too often) try to start the car and it would not hold an idle. On the second try I would give it a bit of gas to keep the revs up for a few seconds and then it would be fine. Today, starting cold I could not get it to hold despite many tries. I did manage to get it back up again by keeping the gas depressed and keeping the RPMs at about 2000 until the engine was partially warmed up. Help - what goes? Is this something the local Toyota dealer can handle since I'm tired of the Lexus over-charges. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Mike! I think using only synthetic oil helped extend the battery life. In the past I usually replaced batteries at 3-4 years whether they needed it or not. It just I've heard more recent stories about new ones crapping out and with mine turing over so strongly I thought there was still plenty of life left in it so I keep it for these many years (and it made it though the last NJ winter parked outside!). Thanks again - Stan

OEM battery in a 1998? Wow, that last longer then mine. I thought mine was doing great with it started to die in 2004. If you hear a clicking that is good, means your battery is dead. Could be bad plates, bad cells, etc or bad alt. I would buy a new battery (since you need one after 7 years) and call it a day. I baught an Optima....Lexus starts like on crack! :) To test charge it up and see if the car starts or put another battery in (from another car) and see what happens. I would guess (99%) sure, it is a bad battery. I would do that since you again need one and it is cheaper then buying an alt from the start. The clicking is the solenoid clicking and the starter does not have the power to turn engine/flywheel over. ←

My 1998 has 115,000 miles on it and the original battery which cranked perfectly strong and well the last time I used it. Today, however, when I tried to start it all I got was clicking noises and ALL of the warning light lit up as I was attempting to start. The headlights all turned on, but I couldn't judge form their intensity whether they were at full power or much diminshed. Anyone have a similar experience? Thanks!!!!!!!!

It's hard to believe, but I am still running my original battery. The car has 115,000 miles and has only seen 5-20 synthetic oil (a clue, perhaps to it's longevity). In the past, I have routinely replaced my batteries after 4 years whether I had to or not, assuming they would fail soon anyways. But this car is not garaged, in north NJ, and is still turning over and starting easily now on 20 degree mornings. With all I'm reading about new batteries failing, I'm hesitant to replace it. What do you think? Also, when I finally replace it (prob with a Sears Northern region battery) which battery type fits the 98 (there are apparently 2 choices, but I'm not sure which is largest, capacity-wise.) Thanks!

During the last 2 winters, our 2001 RX's steering wheel squeeks loudly (with a moderatly high pitch) and continuously when the wheel is turned. It goes away when the interior warms up enough. Sounds like it needs some lubricant somewhere. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks!

I'm not familar with a motorvac. Is this some sort of concentrated fuel cleaner? I do use a full container of RedLine Fuel cleaner in a single tankfull every year or so. Supposedly the Redline product can be used to clean up to 100 gallons so I am using it "full strength". Thanks for your help!

The check engine light just turned on my 98 ES300. Lexus says I need 2 (front and back) Air Fuel Ratio Sensors $338 each plus 2 hours labor. Is there a cheaper way around this? Last year I did ocasionally (not often)encounter problems starting the car when hot. It wouldn't hold an idle for the first few attempts. I wonder if this is related. Bottom line- do I really need to replace these or can I get along without them? I plan to sell the car in about 6 months. Thanks

Thanks Kevin!!!

The shaking problem - could be wet gas. try throwing in a few cans of dry gas (the isopropyl type, not the methanol type)

I'm a bit confused as to whether the all wheel drive RX300 has all 3 of these. Can't tell from the owner's manual (supplement) whether the transfer case oil and the differential oil are separare units each requiring separate fluid changes for a total of 3 including the transmission itself. When I go in to have these changed, I'd like to appear reasonably knowledgeable. Thanks.