mikey00

Look here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...p;highlight=ABS and here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;hl=axle+shaft

I remember others reporting this problem in the past. It was always the toothed rings on the axle that caused the problem. this requires axle shaft replacement which is expensive. You should troubleshoot and hope your cause is something less expensive but I think the odds are with the toothed ring. One way to verify it is the ABS is to remove the large ABS fuse in the fuse box. Don't just pull on it. There is a trick to getting it out, a screw from the bottom. Once it is out your car should operate normally as a car without ABS. Only problem is the ABS light will be on.

I guess it could be the pump. I don't know of anyone trying to replace the pump to fix the problem. Most wait, like I did, until everything is shot and at that point you can't tell if the pump went bad causing poor lubrication and then causing everything else to fail or if it is a part going bad clogging the filter/pump which then causes everything to fail. Mobil 1 full synthetic is not listed a T-IV compatible. This is not something I would normally try on my own. But the trans shop said they use it on all the failing Lexus transmissions they rebuild along with the felt filter and have no problems. Plus they were offering a 2 year 24K warranty so I thought it was a good time to try Mobil 1. If this trans didn't have design problems I would be using T-IV with a screen filter.

I will monitor the fluid condition closely, but right now I am thinking d&f every 30K. I am done with flushes. My problems started after my last one. Maybe it was just coincidence and it was just time for the trans to go.

I have my car back a week now from the trans shop so I thought I would report my experience. Final cost was $3400 to have my trans rebuilt by a single shop independent in Denville, NJ. Warranty is 2 years 24,000 miles. It required all the parts in the standard rebuild kit plus they had to source some gears from Lexus. The trans worked fine from the minute I picked it up. No learning time, shifted like it always has before failure. The shop uses Mobil 1 full synthetic trans fluid and a felt filter (yes felt). They use this combo in all the failing Lexus transmissions and have excellent success. I guess time will tell.

Did you apply the brake and make sure all 3 brake lights are working? Don't forget center one. All 3 lights are working......as well as all lights in the 3rd light... When you start your your car is the indicator on immediately, or does it come on after after you hit the brake pedal? This will tell you if it is a brake light or a running light. It looks like the warning system works on resistance and sometimes it's just a dirty connection causing it to trip even though the bulbs are on. Try reseating all the bulbs. Another thing, sometimes after market bulbs will cause the indicator to trip (especially the long life ones). Pay particular attention to the center brake light. For some reason that is often the culprit. PS; What's the status of your trans?

Did you apply the brake and make sure all 3 brake lights are working? Don't forget center one.

Did 3 drain and fills and it was running fine until today. When cold (1st thing in the morning) the transmission is shifting hard btwn 1st and 2nd slipping btwn 2nd and 3rd......is it gone? Dropped the pan and cleaned the filter. It had alot of sludge on it with fine shavings in bottom of pan. Sludge was all over the 3 magnets. Cleaned pan and filter and took it for a test drive around the block and it drove good. Where is the sludge coming from and what is it? No one really has a good answer to that. It could be just one part failing causing the filter to clog, which starves the pump which causes more parts to fail. Or it could be a lubrication problem (pump?) causing the parts to fail. Or it could be a ECM problem causing the trans to hunt a little more than necessary to find the right gear. This in turn causes parts to wear and creates dirt and clogs the filter. It will be interesting to see if your cleaning of the filter fixes your problem. Even if it does, I suspect whatever is the root cause of the problem will catch up with you eventually requireing a repair. I hope you received my PM in time yesterday for your filter change. Here is another discussion you made find interesting: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371348

Mine is still working at 133K, so I can't give you first hand info, but based on previous posts the answer is yes to all 3 of your questions. It seems like the soloind contacts in Nippon Denso starter used the RX are a common failure item. I remember posts in the past where owners used a new starter, a rebuilt, and replaced contacts. If you do a search on "starter" on this forum and over at CL you will get many hits. I even remember some R&R procedures if you need them. I did save this Nippon Denso repair link from a previous post in case I ever needed it. It may help you. http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/instructions.html

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds like you are running out of things to try before getting the transmission rebuild or replacement that many have already required. If I remember right, you already tried the sensor clean and swap and then even went to 2 new ones. I also remember a CEL, we thought was unrelated to the trans issue. I am assuming that was resolved. If not, resolve that first. It could be trans related. At 3 d&f's just about all of the old fluid is out, so I don't think it is a fluid compatibility issue. You could try dropping the pan and replacing the filter and hope that it is maybe plugged or restricted enough to cause your problem. If you repace fluid again at this time I would just stick with T-IV.

Yes. Both Mobil 3309 and Mobil Multi Vehicle trans fluid are Toyota TypeT-IV compatible. They are synthetic blends same as T-IV is. The Multi vehicle is new and may be hard to find. I ended up using Mobil 1 full synthetic, which I don't really recommend for everyone as it's not currently listed as T-IV compatible.

I am not sure what they are referring to but at least they do give you factory part numbers in the red text. 43512-48011 (with flange) is the only front rotor I know of for the RX. Go to irontoad.com to see the part #'s. You may even want to buy them there.

I would have gone the Toyota dealer route if I could count on getting a good rebuilt trans from Lexus, that would go at least another 100,000. Problem is, if you read all the posts from others who are having the trans done by lexus, there are to many horror stories. Whoever Lexus is contracting with to rebuild these transmissions is not doing a very good job. These transmissions are not even lasting short term, let alone 100K.

I quickly accessed all my options and decided on a local shop to do my trans. I will be sure and post back with my experience, good or bad. My options were: 1. Lexus Dealer - They gave me a phone estimate of 5 to 6K to install a rebuilt trans. Towing had to be added. I assume a loaner and cappacino were included but forgot to ask. I did ask about any goodwill assistance and was given the 800 number. The 800 number wouldn't even talk about possible goodwill without first having the car towed to dealer and problem verified. I do understand the reasoning and it is kind of industry standard policy but I was kind of looking for some type of assurance that if I did have the car towed in and paid the charge to have problem verified that assistance was possible. They wouldn't even talk until the dealer had the car. I then called the dealer back to see if he could offer any suggestions. His only suggestion was to tow the car in. I'm really not happy with the past reports on Lexus rebuilds anyway and even if they gave me 50% goodwill I would still be looking at about 3K, so I crossed the dealer off the list. 2. Toyota Dealer - They did my timing belt and I was pleased with their service so I thought I would check if they were interested in the trans job. I called today (Thursday) and they said get the car to them tomorrow, they would give me a loaner and I could pick up my car on Monday. $3800 for a Lexus rebuilt trans. This sounded real good but I am still stuck with a Lexus rebuilt trans. If I had any problems I was worried it might be a little harder to resolve a Lexus rebuilt trans problem installed by Toyota. 3. Local Independent - I had a good feeling about this guy. He just does transmissions, has a good customer satisfaction record, knows Lexus/Toyota trans, been in business over 30 years, 7 man shop, 1 day service, 2 year warranty. I like the idea of keeping my own trans and having it rebuilt rather then getting some unknown rebuild from whoever Lexus contracts with. I also realize there are ceratin risks dealing with a independent. His price is $2100. for a standard rebuild. If the trans required parts that are not included with the standard rebuild kit, $3300. would be the highest it could go. Towing included. He felt there is a good chance I may not need a rebuild just a repair and it could be much less. I am really not counting on this, but who knows. I decided to roll the dice with this guy. 4. IPT (http://www.importperformancetrans.com/) - These guys mainly build racing transmissions and ship world wide but are local to me. They really know Toyota/Lexus and build a heavily beefed up trans. If I were using my car on a track or doing some serious towing, I would, no doubt, go with them. But after a long conversation with them, I decided this may not be the best option for my wife's daily driver. They sell the trans for $3475. plus shipping, but when you look at having them install it and add on torque converter, fluid and towing it quickly goes over $5K.

My 2001 trans decided to call it quits today at 133K. For about the last week a faint buzzing was comming from somewhere during acceleration when the engine was cold. It was hard to pinpoint where it was coming from and I thought it was a alternator or water pump bearing. The buzz seemed to rise and fall with engine RPM and did so even when the engine was revved with the trans in neutral. But I guess there is part of the trans that is spinning with the engine even when in neutral. Next symptom was the trans occassionally shuddered when shifting. Today it seemed to shudder a little more than usual so I decided to floor it, let it downshift and see what happens. The engine revved but no power was making it to the drive wheels. I pulled over to the side of the road and tried all the gears. No reverse, nothing. I checked the fluid. It was clean and full. If I shut everything down for a minute and re started, I was good for a few blocks before the problem would re-occuur. I did this many times to get home. It seems like every one of these trans are destined to fail sooner or later no matter what you do. My fluid was always kept clean with 15K drain and fills. Even had a flush done last time. I have a 2001 which has the factory cooler, which may not be the greatest but has to be better than none. The car is primarily driven by my wife who is very easy on it. Tomorrow starts my search for a tranny shop.

One of the air mix servos. Check here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368822

Grumpa- If you can put that stick back in and wait 5 seconds before you pull it out and read it, my hats off to you, your a better man than I am. I normally have to stab it about 3 or 4 times and look at both sides of the stick to feel that I have an accurate reading. It normally takes that many times because of all the splatter in the pan. Many times when you pull it out all you get is splatter running down the stick. I try to stab and pull as quickly as possibly to limit the splatter as much as possible. How about the rest of you guys that check your own trans. fluid? I'm willing to learn. I find that I have to read it on the first couple of stabs. After that, the dipstick drags enough ATF up onto the tube walls to make good reads impossible. As far as being 1/2 inch over full, I wouldn't worry about it. Both my RXs came from the factory that way. Even when I did my first drain and fill at 60K, I put back in exactly what I took out, so it stayed over full. Even had a flush done at one point at a Toyota dealer and they had it a little over full. Never had any problems. Finally on the last drain and fill I put a little less in to get it to the proper level.

It took me awhile to dig out all the paperwork to figure out what I paid. Both the hitch and rack were purchased new in June 2001. I have all orignal paperwork/manuals and receipts. The hitch is a HiddenHitch 70777 and came from 1800hitchit.com. It cost me $140 delivered. The rack is a Yakima Roc N Gate and came from www.rack-n-roll.com. It cost $430 delivered. If you check the site, it looks like the Roc n Gate Model is now called the Swing Daddy and cost the same. I did hunt the internet for best prices on both of these. The hitch and rack have only been used for one vacation (NJ to NC). Other than that one week the rack has been stored inside and looks brand new. The hitch has been on the car and looks good but not new. If you are interested I will sell both for $250 (that's less than 1/2 original cost) and split the shipping with you. Making some assumptions, total shipping looks to be around $100. Edit: Sold

Yes I still have it. I haven't really pursued selling it other my one post here. The hitch should be the same as the Highlander. Back when I purchased it, Hiddden Hitch listed it as fitting the Highlander and did not list the RX. I went to a Toyota dealer on a Sunday and crawled under a Highlander and measured everything. Everything was the same so I bought the HiddenHitch 70777 for the Highlander and it fit the RX fine. The Yakima Roc n Gate is a high end bike rack that swings out so you can open the back of the RX without removing the bikes. I used it for one vacation. I would let everything go for a good price but shipping might be a killer. I don't even know how to go about shipping something as heavy as the bike rack and I no longer have the box. But it did get shipped to me from Washington state, so I guess it can be done.

I would use Toyota Type T-IV which is exactly what belongs in there. Others could be better or could be worse but why deal with an unknown when you are trying to get your tranny back to normal. Some where around $4.75 per quart at Toyota dealer. You should use about 4.5 qts. per drain and fill. Assuming you are just doing a drain and fill using the 2 drain plugs mentioned in the link, it should take about 30 minutes. If you drop the pan and change the filter add at least 40 minutes. Remember a drain and fill is only going to get 50% of the total fluid out. So you are going to have some mixing of the old and new. Next drain and fill will get some more old out along with some new. So after 2 drain and fills you will have about 75/25 mix of new to old. You will get a diminishing return on each drain and fill. 2 or 3 drain and fills should be enough. Or you could just get a flush which will replace all the fluid at once but will cost more. There is also a procedure around to disconnect one of the trans cooler lines and run the car to pump out the old fluid as you pour in new to replace all the fluid at once.

I put the new sensors on last Sunday a week ago and no problems until tonight. Again, it has driven better than ever until I put it in reverse when I was coming home tonight. When I was backing up it started lunging a little. I got the sensors from a local parts store. Did that come back to bite me....? Sensors from a local parts store most likely come from the same manufacturer, so I wouldn't expect a problem with them. Maybe it's time to try a flush or a couple of drain and fills in succession to remove the "compatible"?? fluid.

You actually do have a code (most likely 39) but is is a VSC code and can't be read with a standard scanner. You need the Lexus/Toyota tester or use the procedure. It's pins 4 and 14 you want to use to do zero point calibration according to the bulletin. It's pins 4 and 13 you want to use to read the code according to the post. I wouldn't even worry about reading the code. Just do the calibration and I bet the problem goes away. The pins are in the same position in both the forum procedure and the TSB. Only problem is the images are 180 degrees out. Use the shape of the connector to reference the correct pins. It takes nothing special to short out the pins. A short piece of wire, even a paper clip will do. The TSB is for a 2003 4 Runner but it does tell you how to read date codes on the VSC computer label and determine if you have a bad one. A bad one meaning that if your evap hose comes off, you will be stuck with a VSC light after you correct the problem. Looks like Toyota offered computer replacement under warranty. I suspect some of thses VSC computers found there way over to the RX. Checking your date code will tell. Short term fix is to do a zero point calibration and be prepared to do it again if you have evap hose/gas cap codes in the future. Long term fix is to replace the computer. I would hate to think of what Lexus charges for that.

Here is another link you might find useful. It is a Highlander forum with multiple posters complaining about the same problem. It also contains a procedure for getting the codes. http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic738062.htm

This is the first I have heard of this problem on a RX. Leave it to Lexus to charge $880. when all that's rerquired is a zero point calibration. Just like charging $5K for a rebuilt trans when all that's required is sensor cleaning. If you search through the various Highlander forums you will see that this is a much more common problem on the Highlander and some of the other Toyota products. The scenario is always the same. You get a CEL due a valid failure and code. Once it is fixed and faults cleared the VSC light comes back on. I don't know why but this is very common after the evap hose becomes disconnected behind the air box. Here is a link to a Toyota bulletin with directions to do the zero point calibration. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?postid=223187

To oversimplify it, the air fuel ratio sensor measures the engines exhaust output and sends a signal back to the ECU to vary the air/fuel mixture the engine receives. It is part of the emmissions system. You can google it if you want to get into it a little more. As long as your CEL went off, I would wait to make sure it is a valid problem before changing the sensor. To answer your question about the fluid. I realize there are people out there that say the sky will fall if you don't use Toyota Type T-IV. Others swear by some compatibles that claim to exceed manufactures specs such as Amsoil fluid. I prefer to use the Toyota fluid but as long as the shop used a compatible fluid you should be fine. If it were me, I would get my moneys worth out of the present fluid and change back to Toyota when it's time. If it gives you piece of mind change back sooner. Make sure you post back and let us know if the sensors fixed the trans problem after you take some time to test. I hate to think of all the 5k transmission swaps Lexus did that could have been fixed by sensors.