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About CitizenPete

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  • Birthday 08/04/1958

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  1. To keep and put money into the RX or sell before facing real costs? Hmmm

  2. Wowser! $1500 (No F'n way!) -- I spoke to the dealer over the phone and they said it is probably the mount and based on the other posts within the forum I still assume thats what it is. As I mentioned previously they quoted $325. IS there anyway to determine if it is the rear carrier bushing? The sound I am hearing is definitely coming from the driver side wheel well -- the carrier would be centered, correct? Peace
  3. Thanks so much for your RX300 maintenance web site!

  4. Nobody is posting on this? I spoke to the dealer - they want $325 parts and labor to replace the mount. Dealer did mention that this is a noise issue only and should not effect safe operation. I told them I would call them back on the $325+tax job (WHFreezesOver). Part is around 40 -- local shop quoted $108 to r&r. ($150 parts and labor). Any input from any RXers?
  5. I think this is the replacement part: Anyone else swap this part in? Can you do it on one side if one one side is bad? Do you recommend replacing the shock(s) at the same time even if it is not leaking, or can I save money by just replacing the one mount? (120K miles) recommendations?
  6. Found this post from a while back: I reckon the mount is the suspect.
  7. Same issue now. Did you ever get this resolved? What was the solution /cost? Thanks
  8. Wow... when I read this I thought it was a weird joke someone was playing on me. Our RX300 started the same issue this week. I think the noise is coming from the drivers side rear spring. I had my wife push up and down on the back of the vehicle, while I stuck my head in the wheel well, and that is definitely where the noise is coming from. A bad shock?
  9. Same with my RX300. 3000+ RPM cold around 40-45mph, then drops to 2500 rpm. appears to warm up in 5 miles or less.
  10. :D AND THE WINNER IS... CODE58 I took the RX int to the brake shop that did the brake work for me about a month ago. They test drove it, put it on the lift and removed the wheels/rotors off the back. And as code58 suggested, the emergency brake shoes were both jammed and locked up inside the rotor (drum). They freed them and the problem was solved (good to drive). Because they had done the brake job they did not charge any lift fee or time charge. The e-brakes still had plenty shoe left and evidently they were heating up and would build up some sort of resonant frequency to cause the shudder after a mile or two and then repeat the process after I stopped -- thus the weird on/off problem. Thank you code58 for your suggestion! Now, the brake shop also said the "cables were jamming up" and quoted me $500 P&L (OEM parts) to replace the cables. Yes, that's 500 US dollars, not pesos. I declined the offer. They also told me that "squirting lubricant, etc." on/into the cables would not fix the problem, based on their extensive customer wallet bilking experience. I told them that if my wife kept her little foot off the darn e-brake pedal until I could disconnect the cables, I would be just fine. I then explained to my wife that unless she was parking the RX in SanFrancisco on a street with a 70 deg. incline that a AWD probably wouldn't roll away. Thanks for your posts. Thank GOD it was not the differential or trans. All the trans failure post on the forum freak me out -- this 99 RX is still not paid off and I've got 107K+ miles on it. Best regards to all!
  11. ECU failure? Will an OBDII gauge normally give any feedback if the engine does not turn over and start?
  12. I live in Ohio - we get about 128in of snow a year here in the snow belt and have our share of steep hills. I have to agree with the other posters who have replied -- the Bridgestones Dueler tires have worked well for us too.
  13. PLEASE HELP! - weird REPEATABLE problem - any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated. RX300 99 ~107K miles RX just started this problem today: When driving from stop after about 1 or 2 miles a minimal shuddering starts very slowly and gently then develops into a massive shudder which is bad enough that anyone would stop driving the vehicle and pull over. Gut feel and sound input - makes me think something with the rear passenger side wheel or suspension? I drove up and down a state road for 3-4 miles each way at least 5 times and every time I turned around the exact same thing happened. I started out fine and then the shudder started ever so gradually after a mile or two (about minute) until it slowly (20-30 seconds) became so bad I was afraid to drive anymore and I stopped and turned around. Then it was ok until it started again. It's as if a wheel or tire is drastically out of balance BUT why doe sit go away then start again... I checked outside weights on wheels: OK, I checked lugs: OK; Air pressure in tires: OK (front driver's tire may be a little bit low - visual) -everything appears tight and together. The most bizarre thing is this. On one of the passes down the state road I drove it again until the shuddering started, Then I put the car in Neutral to see if the engine or trans was contributing to the shuddering. I actually coasted and the shudder continued in neutral and the "vibration cycle" slowed (but did not decrease in magnitude) with the vehicle roll speed until I almost came to a stop. The Engine of course was not engaged while in neutral and revving it did not effect the shudder at all. When I went back into drive and turned around it was fine and then started all over again after about a mile. To be clear this problem does not appear to necessarily start when reaching any specific speed. I was driving between 40-50mph without the shudder and then is gradually starts and becomes overwhelming. Once the shuddering starts it does not appear to stop irregardless of speed until the vehicle is stopped and turned around. The vehicle is not drivable after a mile or two. The brakes (rotors/pads) WERE replaced about a month ago. WTH??? Anybody have any ideas before I start burning up a stack of credit cards trying to fix this at a shop? First stop? ... crawl over to brake shop that did the work a month ago? :chairshot: PLEASE HELP! ANY IDEAS?
  14. I have RX300 AWD 1999 and I want to purchase rotors here: What the heck does this mean? "Must know which type, WITH or WITHOUT "flange" on the mounting hat. 43512-33100 is Type A- WITHOUT flange 43512-48011 is Type B- WITH flange. For models with production year from 1/1998 to 1/2003." Do I need the flange or not??? thanks for any help with this. CitizenPete