mikey00

I am not convinced, and it doesn't sound like you are either, that you problem is ABS activation. That's why I suggested you first remove the fuse to verify the problem is ABS activation. Otherwise once you start cleaning sensors and sensor rings you may start causing additional problem in addition to the problem you have.

Brilliant! I have been on this site for over 5 years and over at CL for about 8 years and this is the neatest trick ever. My antenna has been making the groaning noise for over a year now (worse in the winter). I figured I would get to it someday and dissamble and grease it. I read this post and grabbed my pump oil can which holds about 1/2 cup, leaned under the rear of the car, pushed the nozzle of the pump can into the hose and pumped away. Antenna was quiet immediately. Took about 3 minutes total. I have a small container catching the oil right now and if looks clean enough it goes back into the pump can. It's only whatever multi-grade dino that was leftover from lawnmower, tractor or whatever I changed the oil in last. The pump can is only used to lube contact points on tractor, dump cart and things like that. Great first post BobQ. Most people only come here when they need answers and sometimes even complain if you don't welcome them fast enough.

Thanks for the update. I am also looking for someone to cut a blank keyblade for my Lexus ES350. Can you send the link to Rocket Keys on Ebay Motors. I could not find it on Ebay Motors. Here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-Key-R...0QQcmdZViewItem

I wouldn't expect the Davis Car Chip to read a Lexus specific code. You could check with their tech support if you wanted to verify: http://www.davisnet.com/support/help.asp

Sounds like you are looking at the block coolant drain. The first thing you should do with a CEL is get the codes read. Did you do this before changing the sensors? If so what were they then and what are they now.

Others in the past have had the ABS activation problem and it does not produce any lights (CEL or ABS). From what I have heard about the sensors they are usually corroded and difficult to clean. So be careful with them. They list for about $200 each. I have read of some breaking the sensor during cleaning when it wasn't the problem. If you are not sure your vibration is the ABS kicking in, you may want to verify this first. You can do this by removing the ABS fuse block in the fuse box. Of course nothing is at easy as it should be. You can't just pull it out. It is bolted from the bottom. You need to remove 2 10mm bolts (I think) plus some plastic clips to get at the bolt holding the fuse. Once the fuse is removed your ABS light will be on and your car will drive as a car without ABS. This will verify if your vibration is really coming from the ABS system. If it is, it is almost always caused by the ABS sensor ring which is part of the axle. In fact I can't remember any RX ABS activation problem that wasn't caused by this. Of course checking and cleaning the sensors should be your first step after you determine it is ABS activation causing your vibration. But the odds are against the sensor and with the sensor ring.

I would just get a generic one from etrailer.com for less than $50 and splice it in. I do remember reading about someone using a generic one from Walmart as a replacement but I can't find it right now. If you follow the discussion in this link you will see a wiring diagram that will answer your wiring questions. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...-it-towing.html Here is the converter from etrailer. If you click on the instructions you will get the wiring diagram. You should be able to match it up with the lexus wiring diagram for installation. http://www.etrailer.com/pc-ELEE~119176.htm

You need to verify exactly what lights are on. If it's a CEL along with others, read the code with a code reader and troubleshoot from there. If you successfully got the CEL to go out with your repair/sensor change/etc but are still left with a VSC light you need to do a zero point calibration. This is a common problem. A number of Toyota products have a defective VSC controller which require the calibration after a CEL reset. If this is the case post back and I will find the Toyota bulletin for you.

I just went through this. Someone posted a source for cheap Lexus uncut keys ($3.44 ea including shipping) but before ordering I called around and found that I could not get them cut locally at any price. The best deal I have found so far is at Rocket Keys on ebay motors. 2 key shells with cutting for only $39.99 including shipping. Franks locksmith from the posts above, who later became www.toy-lex.com is now out of business. Website is up and still taking orders but no product is being shipped and all phone lines have been disconnected.

I don't think you will have much sucess getting a valid answer here being that we all have the US version of the RX300. I see you are from Australia and have a 1998 model. Our model year started in 1999 and we don't have the manual mode or a flashing "M". Lexus Owners Club (Australia) has more Harrier owners. You could try your question there: http://au.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=6 Or maybe here: http://www.motortrader.com.my/asp/forum/fo...sp?FORUM_ID=198 Good Luck.

I just checked owner's manuals from 99 to 04 and it looks like the procedure wasn't added to the manual til 04. Here it is from the 04 manual: " To normalize the power windows: 1. Push down the power window switch of each door and lower the windows halfway. 2. Pull up the switch until the windows close and hold the switch for a second. Make sure that the windows open and close automatically. If the power windows cannot be operated properly, have it checked by your Lexus dealer. "

It will cost around $1500 and about 3 hours of you time. Check here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...8-upgrades.html and here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...ion-w-pics.html Just remember a little Garmin Nuvi is a lot cheaper and sooo much better.

No. When the brightness is turned all the way down the display is blank when the headlights are on but still lights when headlights are off. This is true for the RX300 and I can only assume your RX330 is the same being that I don't have one.

Do you, by any chance, have the dash light brightness turned way down?

Here is an interesting cheap code reader that Costco just started selling for $35.

Almost without a doubt it's your idle air control valve (IACV). You will not get a check engine light when this requires cleaning. You will just get the symptoms you described. It is a very common problem. Here is a procedure: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=30723

Yes I am positive. The rotors dont bind up it seems to be the pads that are binding. PLus the old rotor and new one look identical. Is there clearly a difference between the two? When I took everything apart I noticed that the inside pad was what seemed to be causing the binding. What could be causing this? But what is the pad binding against? I bet it is the rotor.

Are you sure you have the correct rotors on the rear? There is a difference between FWD and AWD rear rotors.

You pretty much eliminated the ECU. And with the CEL returning after a battery disconnect It's not just a one time thing. I still say there has to be a code in there. Is there anyplace else you can try and have the code read? There are so many things this could be like your new timing belt could be off a tooth, if your replacement sensors were not Denso, that sometimes causes a problem, etc. But all this is shooting in the dark without the code.

There are very basic OBDII readers available on Amazon and ebay for about $40. This should be a lot cheaper than throwing parts at the problem. The ECU alone should have been over $1000. I didn't think it was possible to have a CEL without a code. So I question the reading of the code even though it is a simple process. Maybe someone else knows of a situation I am unaware of where you can have a CEL without a code. There's nothing you are leaving out like you bought a used ECU and the CEL came on after it was installed or anything like that? You may want to try the battery disconnect I suggested above to reset the CEL.

I would concentrate on the CEL and trying to properly get the codes rather than continuing to throw parts at the problem. You must have lot of money spent on parts by now. I see you are in the Bahamas. Is is safe to assume Auto Zone knows what they are doing when it comes to reading codes? If not find anyone with a scanner or by one for about $50.

Something strange here. Are you sure you have a check engine light on? I have never heard of a CEL that didn't produce any codes. Why didn't Autozone reset the CEL light while they had the scanner plugged in? Assuming all that is correct, I would suggest disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes to reset the ECU. Then drive and see if your CEL comes back on. If so get the codes read again. Also you have changed a lot of parts. Did you always have the CEL and did you change the parts to try and solve it? Or did you cause the CEL somewhere along the way while changing all these parts. It just sounds like a lot of guessing at parts changing without getting a code read which will tell you what part to change. Is it definetly the engine you are feeling or is it the trans trying to shift but failing to do so? When cold the ECU raises your shift points slightly, this is normal but the sputtering is not.

This sounds like it could be a serious engine problem. If you put it in neutral and rev the engine slightly does the frequency of the knock increase indicating it is engine related. If so I would pull the front valve cover and check for sludge. If you find some it may be time to hit Lexus up on your 8 Year 120 day sludge warranty.

They had a lot apart to do the services you listed so the CEL could be anything. You really to get it back to them so they can read the code and see what the problem is. Being that they did a trans flush, I hope it is not trans related due to moving debris around in the trans. There is one strong possibilty causing the code. There is a black rubber hose behind the air box directly under the brake fluid container. When you lift up on the top of the air box to change the air filter this hose is easily disconnected from the metal tube below causing a CEL. Being that Toyota products use a different air box, the Toyota dealer may not be aware of this common problem.

I have a RX300 so can't speak from experience about the RX330 converter box but I do understand that there are 2 versions of the module. One is towing enabled and one is towing disabled. See here for more info, post #47 in particular: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...39543&st=45 Also here is the Rx330 10 page PDF instructions for the hitch and wiring: http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/import/PDF/RX330_TOW.PDF RX300 Dash Parts