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Hello all, I just wanted to give an update on my issue. Unfortunately i am still seeking a resolution to this issue. I was able to purchase a very nice OB2 reader, but sadly i got the same results my mechanic, the folks at Auto Zone, and a friend of mines go, which was Nothing! The scanner showed that the malfunction indicator was on, however, it indicated that there were node codes. I even tested my new scanner on two other cars what had the check engine light illuminated, and it gave the codes immediately in both cases. Now, after this unsuccessful attempt, i took my Rx 300 back to my mechanic and after almost 2 weeks, he was only able to tell me that he suspects that the problem is originating from coolant temperature sensor. He does not suspect that the sensor itself is bad, as i myself changed that several weeks ago, but he suspects that the underlying cause to my problems may be an electrical issue. I've had to take my RX 300 back from my mechanic as i had pretty much depleted a great deal of my funds on a rental car. In the interim, I will continue to do on-line research, and in a week or so, i will take it back to my mechanic for further investigations. Again, if there is anyone that can offer some insight into this issue, and a possible resolution, Please,Please do not hesitate to do so.

In my opinion, very important... no aftermarket parts for me! Also, I wouldn't own a late model car in these days without have a scanner. Best money you'll ever spend! Hello all, Thanks for all your contributions. I found a nice scan tool on ebay, however; its not yet in my posession. As far as my original query, the jury is still out on that, and i'm tired of pulling my hair out over this issue, so i have taken my rx 300 back to my mechanic of 7 years and basically threaten him within 2 inches of his life, lol, and reminded him of the fact that i had paid to have this issue resolved but the vehicle was returned to me without resolution. That said, its been at the mechanic shop for 2 days, and they have no resolution to this matter as yet. I will keep you all posted on any developments. This is such a pain in the butt.

Hi Karl, I also found it strange that the repair shop went ahead and did the wheel alignment and not advise me of these issues a few months ago, as i'm quite certain that they existed then.

I don't know your mechanical skill level and/or what tools you have so I can't say if you can do this safely. I can say it is a very simple job for almost any mechanically oriented DIY'er because the lower ball joint is bolted (vs pressed) in which makes removal and installation easy. You should have a nice flat concrete surface, good floor jack & jack stands, impact wrench and a special tool (real cheap to buy) which will pop-out the tie-rod end and ball joint. You should also have a torque wrench for reassembly. PS How do you know you need these parts? Hi artbuc, Thanks for your response. I knew something was a mist, so i took my RX to a repair shop and had them do a suspension test, and those were the items they said needed to change. I had suspected this much, but wanted confirmation. The ball joints are showing signs of excessive wear, and i can feel the inner rods doing something wacky, especially when I'm making about 45mph, and i know its not my tires as they are brand new, and i had the wheels aligned also. I've had vehicles in the pass that I experienced these symptoms with, and it turned out to be these culprits. I'm pretty certain i can do the job myself, especially considering that the repair shop wants to charge me in excess of $800 to do the job.

Hello all, Does anyone have instructions on how to change the Inner tie rod ends, and lower ball joints on a 1999 Lexus RX 300? Is this something i can safely carry out myself?

Hello Mikey00, Unfortunately the CEL showed up when the original ECU was installed, and then I then I purchased a used ECU and installed it, and i noticed a slight improvement in the idling, but several minutes after installing the ECU i purchased, the CEL showed up again. I have also attempted to reset the CEL by removing the negative battery cable, however; roughly 30 minutes or so later, the CEL returned.

At this point i guess it may be cheaper for me to purchase a scanner. This is the second time I've had it scanned and both times I was told that it didn't give any codes.

Hello Mikey00, I've read many post and comments on the net, which mentioned how the trans in this vehicle tend to be faulty, however, I'm happy to say that I've had this vehicle for a little over 7 years and haven't had any transmission problems. Unfortunately I've had to resort to throwing parts at it with hopes of resolving this issue. In addition, when i changed the O2 sensors, they had in fact corrected some issues I had experienced. The CEL came on a couple of months ago, and sadly I've been unable to get it to go away; obviously because i have not been able to figure out what is wrong with it. The timing belt, and water pump were changed out primarily for preventative maintenance reasons. After changing the ECU, i noticed a slight positive change with respect to the idling, but its still not a clean as i know it should be. Can anyone please advise as to whether or not my 99 RX 300 has a EGR valve, as I've read where people had similar symptoms as I do, and it turned out to be a faulty or clogged EGR valve?

Hi, Thanks for your quick response. I will go into auto zone this afternoon and have a diagnostics ran, and will post the codes. Hello Lenore, I just got back from Auto Zone, and unfortunately they were unable to retrieve any codes from my RX 300.

Hi, Thanks for your quick response. I will go into auto zone this afternoon and have a diagnostics ran, and will post the codes.

I have a 1999 Lexus RX300, Check Engine light is on, and I've being experiencing the following symptoms from it. In the mornings when the engine is cold, and I drive beyond 2000 RPM, the vehicle jerks, almost like its coughing, but the very moment the temperature gauge begin to move beyond the C mark, the vehicle runs Perfect All day, but then this happens all over again the following morning, but only if i go beyond 2000 RPM with the engine cold, otherwise it runs smoothly, aside from the slight engine spudder/miss felt in the steering. So far I’ve changed All spark plugs, All ignition coils, all the O2 sensors, MAF sensor, IACV, timing belt, water pump, Coolant temperature Sensor and even the Engine computer. Someone please Help me!!! The vehicle has 125 thousand miles on it. If ANYONE has a solution to this problem, you can email me at alexcambridge@hotmail.com. Thanks for any assistance...