lexus082

It is not normal. Check the front lower control arm bushings along with the front upper and lower ball joints. Also, the steering rack bushings may also have considerable wear allowing play. What you described usually is caused by worn front lower control arms. Thats where I would start. Also, if you have the money you can visit the Lexus dealer and for $90-$100 they can look over the car and give you a list of what they see wrong with it.

I think its pretty common. I had the same problem with mine, so I just replaced it with a new one.

I have a question concerning the wheel bearings. I have alot of road noise now than what I did when I first bought the car a couple years ago. I just had new tires put on and it didn't help too much. When I'm on the highway its loud enough that sometimes I have trouble hearing people on the phone. Also, when following the highway making a slight turn increases the level of noise. Does that sound like bad wheel bearings. Anyway, here's what I've come up with.---Lexus Dealer: Pembroke Pines Pricing... Front wheel bearing (90903-63006-77) $53.03 each (QTY 2) Front oil seal (90311-50008) $6.50 each (QTY 2) Rear wheel bearing (90369-43005-77) $58.14 each (QTY 2) Rear oil seal OUTER (90311-57001) $7.26 each (QTY 2) Rear oil seal INNER (90311-63001) $9.38 each (QTY 2) **Part numbers should be good for all 92-00 sc's. But double check anyway just in case.

I called several dealers today trying to get a part number and when I asked if they could give me the number they said no? Then I asked why not and they said Lexus doesn't allow them to??? I've never heard of something so stupid. Glad I have my parts book.

Not sure on the box it just said 93-98 Supra. Is there a difference between the NA and TT applications? Caliper side was fine, it was just trying to connect the two lines together. I only tried the rear brake line, I didn't want to waste time just to see if the front would fit. Tire Rack said this has happened before on other cars, but I'm not sure if its happened to previous sc owners.

Yep, the goodridge lines are long enough. The hole on the opposite end of the caliper is too narrow and it will not allow the line to seat properly inside the goodridge line. Its very close, but not close enough. That might make more sense.

Well I tried it again with no luck. I guess its common sense, can take old one on and off repeatedly, but fail to even get the new one on once = wrong part. Hopefully, Tire Rack will take this kit back since I attempted to install. Pretty disappointed, I wonder how many other sc owners have had this problem. I think I will search else where for another kit. I dont feel like buying adaptors since it was supposed to be a direct bolt on. Maybe theres a difference in production dates of the sc's that changes the dimension of the brake line fitting? Well, now that I wasted all day with this its time for a beer. Thanks for your input jzz30.

Just purchased a Goodridge brake line kit from tirerack.com. It says on the box 93-98 Supra, its for a 94 Sc400. Should fit the sc as well. I can connect the hose that goes from the caliper but not the other end that connects to the stock metal brake line. I cant get the end of the metal brake line fitting down into the other brake line far enough so it will begin to thread. I know what I'm doing, I put the original brake hose back on at least three times without any problems... Should I need to use excessive force to force the brake lines together so they will be close enough to thread together? Not too sure what to do. Has anyone bought a set of Goodridge brake lines and put them on a sc300 or sc400. I looked at other manufactures and it appeared they made a different kit ( different model #) for the sc's rather than the same kit made for the supra.

Its hard to explain but my car was at idle and I was behind it and noticed there was a "burping" sound coming from one of the mufflers. It would burp every twenty seconds or so?? Any ideas of what that could be?

Toyota will work on it. I would leave the door panel off.

I just went through that with my passenger side door. Same problem with the clip breaking and being unable to open from the outside. Whats the part number for the clip you bought. It took me a while to finally reattach mine. From what I remember you have to press somewhat hard to get the rod into that hole. The end of that rod snaps & locks into that hole. Took a lot of patience for me to fit the clip back on. Atleast 45 min to 1 hour of trying and it is a very tight area to work in.

Describe how the shocks are broke? What other problems are you having with the car?

You say you don't have any heat/ac? What exactly doesn't work? Does the climate control unit turn on? Check to make sure nothing fell down into the cigarette lighter that would short it out and blow a fuse. Check the voltage coming off the left and right headlight harness should be at least 12 volts.

Its a oem Lexus battery and its only 5 months old.

Yesterday I went to start my car after work and it wouldn't turn over. I turned the key and the interior lights dimmed and nothing happened. The battery is pretty new and it has done this once before in the past (about 6 months ago.) I tried starting it again and on the third attempt it finally turned over and started up. I think its probably the starter solenoid acting up. Can anyone confirm thats what it sounds like? I started the car up and have drove it a few times since and I haven't had any problems with it starting.

From what I have been told the ride is 10% stiffer, b/c they use slightly stiffer bushings. Thats the only difference. And yes they are considerably less expensive then the lexus arms. The spring bumper is also called the bump stop. It prevents the car from bottoming out. Its a black rubber object that fits onto the rod of the shock/strut. It has a hole in the center that the rod fits though. I'm kinda picky about ride quality and the ride quality still very good. Others claim the handling is slighty improved with the stiffer bushings used in the supra arms. I would say its not worth the extra money, but thats just my opinion.

Well after looking at it more closely it appears that the upper hose was leaking. The aftermarket radiator has sort of a lip on the top and the coolant dripped from the upper hose (that connects to the top radiator) and fell into that lip and traveled all the way around the top of the radiator. Which made it look like the radiator was leaking at the top which is what happened with the oem radiator. So I tried to clean up most of the old coolant off the radiator and tightened the upper hose clamp. I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on it. The only thing is i think there must be air in the system b/c the temp needle is still moving very slightly up and down. Usually it stays in the same exact spot once the engine is warm. Could air have entered the system through that loose hose. The hose was still tight and I still don't see how it came from the hose but thats the only thing that makes any sense after cleaning it up and looking at it.

The stock radiator was leaking at the top, so to save money I went with an aftermarket radiator that the Toyota dealer offered for my car. So after 53,000 miles it is leaking also. Go figure. Anyway, I worried about driving it, b/c the last oem radiator just kinda bursted going up a mountain. Here's the thing: The temp needle is still in the normal zone but it drops a little bit and then comes back up almost to where it usually is but not all the way. Can anyone explain why the temp. would drop if I have a leak in the radiator? Is it b/c air is getting into the system causing air pockets? Thats the only thing I can think of or does that sound like I am a little low on coolant. I think I noticed my heat no being as intense as before. Doesn't get as hot, which is sometimes related to a low coolant level.

Check coolant level for starters.

I got the shocks from www.tirerack.com, the lower control arms from Hoy Fox Toyota/Lexus and I for the first time I tried a dealer in FL but I can't remember the name of the dealer. Another good dealer is Park Place Lexus.

Thanks, I think I'm just going to hook up the front parking lights and the side marker lights to one relay. I have an electrical problem and the none of those lights work. Instead of going to the dealer to fix them I'll just use the relay. I already had them try to fix it, but didn't get anywhere the first couple hundred dollars. Not too familiar with relays but I figure I could run the park & side marker lights off of one relay. What I was also thinking about was installing two seperate relays using the front turn signal lamps as the "switched" power source. This way I could have the side marker lights blink along with the other turn signal lights. Each side would have to have its own relay I suppose. Other than this being quite a few wires to deal with and make neat, would this work or would it put to much of a work load on the relay. I'm not sure, any ideas?

I know the side marker lights "light" up when the parking/driving lights are turned on. My real easy question is do the side marker lights blink also when the turn signal is used?

I saw somewhere about installing a line load to remedy this problem. I added newer style tail lights and I guess something got offset so I know nothing is bad such as bulbs or the flasher relay. Anyway how would I go about doing this? Any advice would be great b/c I am pretty good with electrical, but not too familiar with this. Thanks in advance.

Well, I just got done installing the "new" front suspension. The shocks, spring insulators, control arm bushings, upper mounts, stabilizer bar end links and bump stops were all worn. First, I changed out the shocks with new bump stops, spring instulators, upper mounts. The new shocks stopped the car from bouncing everytime I hit a bump. After installing the kyb shocks, upper mounts, bump stops and spring insulators the ride quality had improved but it was still not up to my standards. Today I installed new 95-96 Supra control arms and new end links. Then I went for a drive and what a difference those new control arms made. The front end feels like a new car. The only thing is I need an alignment really bad. Now I can feel that the rear end suspension is sloppy (given that it has 180,000 miles on it). So my next move will be to do the rear suspension. Then of course the wheel bearings at a later time. I still have to install the front sway bar bushings. Condition of old parts: 1 Spring bumper was ok and one of them had a crack/slice in the middle, spring insulators were torn in half, upper mounts were starting to crack and needed to be replaced. The original Lexus oem shocks were completely shot. I compressed the shock with my hand all the way and it took over a minute for the "rod" to decompress (fully extend back out). Lower control arm bushings were free of cracks but I believe the rubber bushings were really soft and worn. So after spending $1,000 I am happy with the result. It wasn't even fun to drive my car the ride quality sucked so bad. I think once I re-do the rear suspension, get new wheel bearings for all four wheels and new tires and an alignment I should be in relatively good shape for a while. Also, I wasn't too sure if I would like the Supra control arms. I think if I have to buy control arms again I will go with the supra control arms again. Also, I wasn't sure if I would like the KYB GR-2 shocks, but I was pleased with those also. I have no regrets concerning the parts I ordered. The ride quality is very nice and will only improve with the other things I intend to do.

Personally I like to go with Brembo and OEM Lexus pads. Drilled rotors keep the brake system cooler & slotted will eat up brake pads quicker. I have regular brembo rotors on the rear and brembo drilled & slotted on the front. I've never had any problems with Brembo. I just do every day-day driving, no racing. Pretty sure its still cheaper than buying Lexus rotors depending upon your local dealers prices.