jadecuir

Ok, but where is the torsion link arm? A picture or a diagram maybe? Thanks. ← Looking at the manual, I see they call it the stabilizer bar:stabiliz.pdf

Your front torsion arm may be bent. With new springs and shocks, that's the only other thing that might lower one side. About the only way to check it that I know would be to jack up the front of the car so both wheels are hanging, remove the shock/spring assys., then measure each side from a common reference point on the body or chassis. Look at the torsion link arm, too. Maybe someone put on too short a link from a different year car. They should be the same length , and straight.

My oil pan had some abrasions from my sons "creative driving", and every time I changed the oil, it worried me that the metal might be a little thin, and one more scrape would blow thru. Last month I found an oil pan on Ebay, new, and won it for $27! It took about an hour to change, as you have to scrape all the silicon sealer off the block.

There are several rotors for sale on ebay, from oem to brembo, and anywhere from $50 a pair to $300, depending on what you want to spend. I bought a full set (4) for my '90 LS, drilled, slotted and zinc plated, for $100 plus about $20 for shipping. Not the best rotors made, but more than adequate. I measured them before and after the plating wore off the working surface, and they are parallel within .0007".

Did you remove the evaporator in the process of cleaning the blower fan? If so, the o-ring seals are the likely culprit. If not, were there caps on all three fittings (two on low side, one on high side) on ths AC system? Did the tech who charged the system replace the caps? My system went dry a few years back. I was told the compressor was toast. Two years later, charged the system on a whim, and it worked fine, still does. Only thing we could figure is that it leaked out thru the uncapped valves! As for the tech who diagnosed the bad compressor....

If it ain't broke, don't fix it! My LS had 270,000 miles before I did any repairs, although it could have been done sooner. Watch for unbalanced tire wear, or steering wandering. Listen for clunks and rattles from front end, and check suspension components every time you change the brake pads. Don't worry about it. Gradually increasing sloppiness in the steering/suspension is the only adverse effect of bushing/ball joint wear. John

I use small cloth bags with draw-strings to save my fasteners, then tie the draw-string to the associated part. Available at McMaster-Carr in lots of 50 for dirt-cheap price, various sizes. Sounds like you got it covered! John

If the shaft seal is leaking, it doesn't get by the bearing, it comes out the weep-hole on the bottom of the housing. Save those unused seals, because you may be installing them later. John

You need a vacuum pump and a manifold with gauges to evacuate system and properly recharge. You should also add oil; need at least a hand-pump for that. I have a '90 LS,270k, and the air quit last yr. My son took it to a local AC shop, and they told him the compressor was shot. We didn't touch it until recently, due to expense, and where we live has very mild weather. Anyway, while at a friends in Sacramento, where it gets VERY hot, I told him about our AC, and he volunteered to check it. He has the necessary tools and freon. He charged the system with R-22 to check the comp. and for leaks, and pumped in some red-dyed oil. The comp. was working fine! We couldn't find any leaks, so he evacuated the R-22 and charged with R-12. After more than a month, it's still working! That little shop ripped me off for a small inspection fee, but he was probably fishing for a big payoff on a phony repair job! All the caps were missing, so I picked some off a toyota at the junkyard, N/C. That may have been the reason for the system failure, leaky valves. By the way , freon smells like propane. If that's what you smell inside the car, that's where your leak might be. John

If you don't pull the bearing, you can't replace the seal and o-rings that leak. Follow the tutorial, and replace ALL the seals, or you are wasting your time. The bearing will come out. Try applying a little heat to the housing with a propane torch; the coefficient of expansion for aluminum is much higher than for steel. John

If you are going to have help, I don't recommend doing the job in shifts, with one person removing parts, and another installing. Especially if it's the first time. It sounds like a surefire way to finish up with a jar-full of leftover bolts, etc. Alot of parts come off the car, in a particular order, and trying to remember what you -yourself took off in - what - order is hard enough. Take your time, and reduce distractions to a minimum.

I had a weird vibration at various times, and I could make it stop by slipping the trans into neutral, while rolling along at 40 - 70 mph. I did a transmission flush and filter change, and put in toyota type - T. No more vibrations, and shifts smoother, too. For a complete flush, you need 7 quarts. Like others have said, the filter is just a fine-mesh screen, and probably doesn't need to be replaced. When the pump stops, the debris probably falls to the pan. I think the fluid is key to performance, and type -T is not that expensive.

My son took the '90 LS to the dealer in Monterey the other day for the seatbelt replace, and they were going to give him a new RX300 loaner! They found out he was under 21, and retracted the loaner. Good call on their part; his driving record sucks! New belt is installed, matching gray, totally free of charge! Call the 800 number to get things started. If your in a hurry, this won't work. Total process took about 3 weeks.

Try this link: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge...x_v2&id=175&c=7

53/male/Air traffic controller,pilot, member AOPA, EAA; former machinist-aerospace shop, former yacht tech/sailor, former Army, 1/9 Aircav, Blackhats. Bought the '90 LS for son's HS graduation; took it back after his 6th speeding ticket voided his license; started driving/repairing the car last year, and I don't want to give it back now! Truly a sweet ride!

I recently changed the tranny filter in my '90 LS, and used the Type T. I had put in dextron III before, and had some funny-feeling shudders, poor shifting. Toyota parts guy said Type IV is for newer transmissions, and the T was what I should use. Owners manual said type II. Anyway, the shudder is gone, and shifts feel great!

I called the lexus 800 number the other day, asking if they provided free seatbelt replacement for frayed or worn belts. I have a '90 LS with 275,000 miles. They said I was beyond warranty, but take it to the dealer. Have them look at the belts, then the dealer will forward observations to Main office. I complied with their instructions, and a couple weeks later, they called and said the belts would be replaced, no charge! They said they may not have matching gray, but they would find the best color match they could. I work across the street from the Stevens Creek Lexus shop, so maybe I'll walk over and see if they have a gray in stock. This is a great company! John

I replaced ball joints and bushings last month, front only. A tire shop with a great alignment machine checked all four wheels and adjusted the fronts for $45. Got a computer report with before and after measurements. Caster and camber was fine, toe-in was toe-out, and they adjusted the tie rods . It made all the difference in handling. John

Thanks, I got it, finally. The biggest problem was finding a way to securely hold it in the vise without doing any damage to the housing. John

I've got my PS pump completely apart except for the large (27MM) high pressure bolt. The bolthead has cuts on the tips, like I've seen on left-hand thread items before. Am I wrong? Standard threads here? It's very tight, and I don't want to tighten it any more than it is. John

Your solenoid contacts are worn out. You know those buttons they sell at autozone/kragens? The ones you hook to the starter when you're working on the car, checking valve clearance, or compression? use one of those to jump the lead from the solenoid to the starter motor.

Just an update: Yesterday I got some caps, and we vacuumed the system, after running it with oil/dye and r-22 half charge. With caps in place, it held vacuum! Charged with Honduran R-12, and we're cold again! Watchin' for leaks, John

Sorry...I have a 1990 LS400 with 165,000 miles. Bought her in 1993 with 59,000 miles on it. Wife has been driving it. I bought her an 02 ES300 and am driving the LS now. There have been a few threads on here about the "clunk" from the front end and the Daizen bushings seem to be the cure. I was just wondering if $700 was too high for this replacement? ← If the dealer quoted you $700 for bushings, it can't be the uppers. They will replace the whole control arm assy, which includes the upper ball joint. Dealer price on this part is over $500 per side! Jack up the front end, grab the tire, and see which way it wiggles. If you can move the top of the wheel in and out, upper bushing and/or ball joint; If the bottom moves in and out, lower ball joint; sides move in and out, tie rod end. Take the wheel off and visually inspect all components, including stabilizer bar bushings, links and all joints. Grab and wiggle stuff. you should be able to find the offending part(s). At 270k, my lower ball joints were shot. Upper control arm had almost 1/4" play at outer joint due to bushing wear, but ball joint was fine. Lower bushings also fine. I still hear a little clunking, and I think it's stab bushings. John

Thanks for the PDF, pachocco! I'll try to find some caps. John

Ask them "which bushings"? Thers are several associated with the front end, and all can be replaced "DIY". My '90 LS has 270k+ miles, just replaced upper control arm bushings (daizen, $100, including lower bushings, not installed yet) and lower ball joints ($90). after alignment, ride is great! John