ArmyofOne

your "low Fuel Warning" sensor is malfuntioning most likely, same thing happened on my 1995 contour. cost me $45 and about 3 hours to drop the tank and replace the sensor.

I also believe that the smell is caused by the fuel. The sulfur content seems to change even though you get it from the same supplier. I get the smell occasionally, but I learned to live with it. Also, I never had this odor problems years ago, before they used catalytic convertors. ← Back when we had 400 plus cubic inch engines and high compression and leaded gas, and carbs that you could adjust, and distributors you could play with and all those thiings you could easiily do to make a car run really good. Those were the days. ← yeah, but those old muscle cars didnt usually use leaded gas, my dads charger has "Unleaded Fuel Only" written right on the gauge, in the owners manual (he still has it) and inside the fuel filler door. so lead wasnt really a factor, even in 1968. (The car is a 1968 Charger R/T.)

ok, the inner CV joint ont he right side of my car has begun to grind. if the joint comes off plane (if the right wheel is lower that the left wheel) then the joint will grind. its only doing it in reverse while turning off plane... 1st question, i was quoted $659.72 to replace. they will replace the drive axles, the inner and out CV joints, all as one unit. also all the bushings that they have to remove to get to them will likely be replaced, along with wheel bearings repacked. Fair Price? i could do it myself, but i do not have time, and it seems as if the bicycle will be coming out of the garage for a few more weeks (which may be a good thing, cause i need to lose about 20 more lbs before i go active duty in Feb). 2nd question, how much time to i have? how long can idrive it before they go completely, and what will happen when they do? my main concern here, is the trans...1500 miles ago, the transaxle fluid was BLACK. i had a drain and fill done. it took 2.8 quarts. thats all fine and dandy, but i would rather not have the trans fall out on me 2 weeks after i have this done. so what im wondering is, how much fluid will drain out? all of it? more than half?? i really hope not, because i dont need the trans to fall out of this car. and if i put more than half of the fluid in, i have a sneaky suspision i will need a new trans before christmas. it hasnt given me any slip at all unless i drive it REALLLY hard, wayy harder than any ever day driving, so should i be ok? i just want to make sure all the fluid is not going to come out of the trans is all. now the fluid that comes out will be from the diff correct? so abotu how much should i expect? also, can i refill the diff through the dipstick? or do i have to "pump" the fluid in the old fashioned way?

you can get the entire drive shaft from autozone for about $65.00 after core charge. chaces are if your outer ones are gone, your inner ones wont be far behind, and its easier/less labor to replace the entire shaft. so, i would reccomend getting the shafts from autozone (remaned for the price i stated above) and having them installed at a private shop. this is what i will be doing in the near future. or i may attempt to do them myself, depending on circumstances. im a motor, not a drivetrain guy, but we will see.

it was a 1990 ES250. yes, i did that too LOL.

oh, 1 other detail, if you hat a factory FSTB (front Strut Tower Brace) you will have to remove it to do all ofthis, not a big deal, its 4 nuts.

B) im sure they dont, especially not cause they are new...or at least...they shouldnt. but every car manufacturer canm make mistakes, even toyota. so please allow me to rephrase the statement i made above... if the catalyitic converter is clogged... ANY car will make that smell. the lexus's are no different, except for the fact that the cats dont go bad that often. sorry for the confusion. :D

2 pieces of thin sheet metal, you can cut with a metal router bit or sawzall. make them about 1 inch by 8 inches. drille holes and use screws to fasten them to the brace ridge (crumple zone).

That's what I want to do to the LS......but didn't want to take everything apart. Sounds like this will work just fine!!! Besides, that's all the dealer does ← use STP Throttle Body/Intake Manifold Cleaner, it seems to be the most powerful, and burn the easiest. this cars intake seems to be tepermental. ayway, to cure the problem which recured today, i just wiggled the airbox. doesnt much matter since the Inner CV joints just blew.

a catalytic converter malfunction will yeild that smell, but not usually unless the car has been reved above 5K in the last minute. ill bet its just your gas.

that can only be caused by one thing...something hit that hood (be it a dog, bird, or another car, only you will know! :) )

duct tape is a good temporary fix, but not good for long, i would lay $$$$ on the fact that thats where your problem is.

go with JPI, mention LOC or CL and you may get a discount...im not sure if hes still doing thta though...

thats what was in my airbox, no wonder the car was running like crap! next week is plugs and wires, fuel filter etc. i change dthe Filter when there were 140,777 on the Main odo, and 777 on the trip odo, thought that was funny. i changed the filter, but the car wouldnt stay running with the new filter. anyway, i pulled the airbox top off after unplugging the MAF, and i looked at the TB. the plate looked ok from the outside when it was closed...WRONG! i pulled the accelerator cable back and the plate stuck unless i gave it a tug, then it came open and i coudl see the nastyness that was my intake. i put some TB/Intake cleaner in the intake while holding open the plate, then i sprayed some on the plate, and wiped the plate off, it may be a half assed job, but it makes a world of difference. i put it all back togehter and started the car...ran like a champ!.

yo man, you from anchorage? i lived there for my whole life!

sorry about the unresolved thread steviej, i have been uber busy with school/work. the fluid was low, but not just that, there was air in the lines. i turned off the car and opened the resivoir (after he added the fluid...which he did whilethe car was running) and unscrewed the cap about 3/4ths of the way...HISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS for about a minute. screwed the cap back on. then i restarted the car, and the noise was stil there, but less prominent, so i unscrewed the cap again, this time while the car was running, and whaddya know, the noise is completely gone after 15 seconds of turening the wheel back and forth with the cap off the resivoir. hasnt been back since *knocks on wood* and that avatar is a Twin Turbocharged Viper Venom 800TT. its a package add on from Hennessey Motorsports.

DONT do it yourself, its too much trouble for a DIYer IMO...PITA to get at. your local shop shouldnt charge you more than $90 with the belt. labor in my area was $62.40.

^^what the topic says, there is a groan from under my hood no matter if the wheels are turned or not, BUT, it gets worse if i turn the wheels, especially while stopped or moving at speeds below ~8mph. there is no abnormal play or kick of the wheel, its smooth as it ever was, unlike with the old belt, which was slipping and making the wheel kick. when the old belt was on, i put Belt Dressing on it every day for like 3 days in a row, is it possible that this dressing is still on the pulley now and with the new belt it will have to burn it off?

oh you will, but it will be months, if not a year, before i can gret this done...i dont knwo near enough about stereos to go bypassing factory amplifiers, etc.

that seems pretty normal. put your brake pedal on the floor (yes, you will have to press rather hard) and then shift from P-D. if it still bounces, then i woudl say check the tranny mounts.

true dat, true dat. my CV's arent shot, only the boots are ripped, the ooil leak has been keeping them lubricated. they dont knock, squeel or hum. i will buy one of thos boots that slides over and pump the 'ho full o grease and call it good. as for the other sstuff, ill let somebody else deal with it when i get my LS400 next summer.

Born in Alaska at Providence Hosiptal, then moved to Malmstrom AFB with my dad at 2 months, when i was 8 months old we moved to Langley AFB VA. lived there till i was 5, moved to VandenBurg AFB CA, lived there till i was 7, moved back to Elmendorf AFB, Anchorage Alaska til i was 19. Now in TX, Workig at Motorola, MPX-200 Project Manager, and im 20 years old, taking 4 classes at UTA in Mech E.

dude, i havent even tried with the bulbs...the snsor doenst bug me that much. they all work, so at least im not getting any tickets. and its fun to watch the guys at the garage run around and try to figure out what the damned light is! LOL. the liscense plate light didnt trigger it. you think your ES needs restoring? i need -a new steering rack -new rear brakes -new inner CV joints -TB, WP and Cam & Crank Seals. -New clips to hold on bpdy cladding (the gray panels on bottom of doors) -new front bumper -new chrome trim on front bumper -new headlights/parking lights on front -new turn signal assemblies on front -new power antenna motor. i think thats it for now... oh, new spark plugs, new coolant, new battery, and a partridge in a pear tree...

start the car, and have the friend look at the motor when you start it, see if it jumps. then, while they are still looking, go from P-D-P and the P-R-P. if it bounces, you have killed a mount.

welll i figured out your wheels...they are not an es250 wheel, they are an LS400 wheel. :) you have a mod you didnt even know about.