TRDGS300

Your abs system decided to tale a !Removed! on you. It's definitely expensive,considering you have to replace the actuator which costs an arm and a leg. Sorry for your misfortunes. As to the guy whose pedal goes to the floor, get yourself a Mew master cylinder. The seals inside the master are leaking break fluid past them. Do it soon before the fluid gets to your booster and takes that out as well.

Get the GTE version of it. Its a little more powerful and just as reliable. Gas mileage will not be your best friend, but having a 4 door Supra is fun. The longblock goes for a descent and affordable price as well. The swap itself is not difficult to do. You will NOT need a new transmission since the GE and GTE both share the same bolt pattern around the bell housing. Only thing is though, the GE transmissions hold up to 400 horse power before anything internal has to be done. While you have the motor out, might as well change the torque converter.

Door lock actuator. Seems to be a feature with 98-05 GS. Its not a bad DIY. Theres a write up for it on this site or on club-lexus.

x2 with you on that To the original post: have you done a tune up? Were you using 93 octane gas? How is your driving? The tests are done with someone who is light on the gas pedal. Just some thoughts

have the pan for the dirty oil sit under the filter. youre gonna have to deal with the fact of it getting on some of the engine. use brake parts cleaner right after to clean it off

sounds like an electrical problem to me. have the shop check the controls. is it making a noise when you turn the a/c on? maybe compressor going bad?

im investing in a pair of these http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/NSX/Work/single-piece/Emotion_XD-9/XD9BRONZE.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/NSX/Work/single-piece/Emotion_XD-9/&usg=__vFzIwzeylDgGJ8ymhxIr0xuc_bE=&h=481&w=500&sz=97&hl=en&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=UUVN-TYvvdKWQM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=128&ei=IwWpTdmzO4jRiAKv1ZSODw&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwork%2Bemotion%2Bbronze%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1024%26bih%3D677%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=423&oei=IwWpTdmzO4jRiAKv1ZSODw&page=1&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0&tx=113&ty=79

Work Emotion FTW... pricey, but they look super clean and flush

anyone have any tips on how to put the strut back in? i took it out, replaced the spring and strut and now im having a hard time getting it in again.

Did all that as well. Pretty much a new front end in parts. turned out to be exhaust heat shields. took it to a muffler shop and had them put on a new exhaust i ordered. sounds perfectly fine now. no clunks, rattles or anything.

Major thumbs up on that bud Going for 600 HP reliably and having it as a daily is going to be pricey. Now if you're going for a one time run and not caring about the motor, then yes the 600 HP is easy to achieve. Either way, good luck with the build. If you run into any problems or need parts, ask dcfish the walking encyclopedia/parts store :whistles:

well ive heard that the bottom end is the same as a gte my freind just took his gte 2j apart and its the same im not sure wut size turbo yet but lookin for about 600 whp. looking to run about 12 psi, annd ita a gte head only same thing in the GE and GTE bottom end is the block and the crank. the rods and pistons are different. GTE bottom end has oil squirters for the pistons as well where the GE does not. I have taken apart both motors, and there is a difference. As far as the NA-T route, its a lot more pricey to go that way. Buying the GTE swap is cheaper.

lower ball joints you can get from any major auto parts store. as far as the upper ball joints, you have to get the upper control arm with it as well. and about the part you are talking about, can you post a picture? would be a lot easier to help