amf1932

Sorry Steve, You're wrong in this instance. Centering the steering wheel is done by adjusting the tie rod ends. They turn one out and the other in. This will not affect the wheel alignment! By doing what you suggested would throw off the operation of the turning signal.

Replacing the water pump when a timing belt is changed is considered a good idea. In fact most dealers will always suggest this option because changing this item is much easier when they're doing this type of job(timing belt). I wouldn't cut corners in this respect, especially when you want some insurance for the future trouble free operation of your car.

All I can say is ......gulp!

Yup, Branshew has the right attitude. ;)

I would bring them to Small Claims Court. The expense is about $20 for the filing fee. http://www.nolo.com/lawcenter/state/small_...fm/stateCode/TN

Latoilette, Don't you think you're oversimplifying this a bit? Firstly, even if you could find this unit in a junk yard do you realize what would be involved? 1- The screen for the GPS is part of the dashboard design in OEM equipped models. Where do you mount the screen, computer, etc? 2- The wiring harness and connectors for GPS equipped cars are not the same as cars which came from the factory without this option. 3- Where would you find a qualified person to do this type of job? The guy would have to be a wizard! 4- Even if somebody could do this, there would be lots of cutting and modifications required to do this type of job which would make the cost astronomical! :chairshot:

lextech, From your last post I see that you didn't even bother to read any of the previous posts concerning this problem!!!! There are 6 pages of them that covered exactly what you said!!! :chairshot:

The tachometer will always give you a reading when the engine is idling. It'll probably read between 500 and 600 RPM after the engine is up to the normal operating temperature.

The damage is not as bad as I thought. They'll fix it up like new! ;) Of course this doesn't stop the heartache you must be feeling ever since it happened.

I used 87 octane on my '94 ES with absolutely NO problems because I didn't notice any differences in performance. I originally was switching back and forth between regular and premium fuels on this car and couldn't justify the added fueling expenses. Read on:http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm

Here's the sequence of events. I drove the car about 30 miles and parked for about 10 minutes on level ground. I started the car and I noticed the Low Engine Oil Warning Light was lit. Stopped the engine and checked the oil level which was very close to the full mark on the dipstick. I then restarted the engine and this indicator light was now off, and it never came on again. I was wondering whether this was a freak thing, or is this a warning of things to come? What controls this indicator light and where is it....inside the crankcase? This '03 ES has less then 8000 miles and is under warranty. Has anybody had this happen to them? Naturally, I'll bring it into Lexus Service if it continues.

I'm glad to hear you're OK........that's the main thing!

Good for you. I'm happy to hear that you were successful!! :D

Too explain this more fully, read this: http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm

I had my dealer put on the 3M clear plastic film on the bumpers before I took delivery. I wouldn't have minded if they did the job correctly, but they only put about an 8" strip of this film which didn't cover the lowest or highest part of the bumper. I complained about this unacceptable job they did and they returned the $500 that I spent to do this job. They left this strip on 'cause it would have been too much bother to take it off. You'll find this strip hard to see on my Millenium Silver paint. BTW: This job can be done properly by specialty shops that have the experience in installing films for a lot less then Lexus charges. Notice the picture of my car at the bottom of this post....I betcha you don't see the film. heehee

Any car that can accelerate to 60mph in 7 or 8 seconds is quick enough for me. Remember, this car isn't a Porsche!

I've been checking the range on the trip computer recently and found that after fillups it varied between 300 to about 325 miles. There probably is nothing wrong with the indications that you've been getting. I have an '03 ES and there shouldn't be any differences in the '04 ES readings.

The filler neck is on the top part of the radiator. You should be looking at the lower inlet of the radiator and follow the water inlet pipe to the thermostat housing. As the top Lexus mechanic told me, "It's no big deal" ;)

Sorry to hear that you couldn't find where the thermostat was located, but you were looking in the wrong place. The timing belt cover doesn't have to be removed to do this job. In any case, I called up my Lexus dealer and found out that they get about $150 to do this job. I then called a local mechanic and he said about $90. Parts included, plus the cost of the anti-freeze. This will give you some idea as what you can expect to pay for this job. Good Luck. ;)

This is a Reliability Chart from the April, 2004 Issue of Consumer Reports. Look what car came out on top!!

You guys are starting to convince me to get satellite radio!! Is it really worth the extra monthly expense? It's about $10 a month.....right?

The booster is behind the brake master cylinder(where you put in brake fluid) on the driver's side firewall. It's the round thingy where the vacuum hose is attached to.

It sounds like you have a problem with the Power Brake Booster. On the booster there is a hose that goes into this booster. Make sure it's connected properly and you don't have a vacuum leak. You can check that you have vacuum by taking off this hose from the booster and check whether there is vacuum coming from the hose. If you have vacuum then it could be an internal problem with the booster itself. If you don't have vacuum coming from this tube then check out the complete tube from the intake manifold to the booster. BTW: The engine has to be running to do these checks.

My '94 ES came from the factory with the red coolant, so I would advise changing back to what Lexus originally used. If you do, make sure to flush out all the green stuff, as best as possible. I think that after you change the thermostat all your troubles will be gone.....hopefully. ;)

The thermostat is not located under the filler cap! Drain the coolant. There is a water inlet pipe & O-Ring connecting to the water pump that has to be removed first, along with the electrical connectors. You then remove the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat. Put in the new thermostat and reverse this procedure. Personally, I would bring the car to a knowledgeable mechanic or radiator company to do this job, unless you are mechanically inclined. ;)