amf1932

I agree with this statement completely, and that's the reason I traded in my '94 Acura Integra GSR VTEC for a '94 ES! Besides, my wife hated the sound of this screaming engine whenever I needed to apply this power in certain driving conditions. ;)

My '03 ES master key has 3 buttons, lock, unlock, and unlock trunk. The lock button also has "PANIC" written in red. If you hold down the "PANIC" button for a couple of seconds the alarm will sound. If the problem key is somehow wired incorrectly the signal to panic is activating your alarm. Is this an OEM key? I don't think so because the '02 key was the same as mine. I never saw an option button on any factory equipped keys. With the factory alarm, it doesn't automatically relock when you exit the car, but it will relock if you lock the door and then unlock it without opening the door. I think that either a separate alarm was installed on your car and it works in a completely passive mode. Lexus alarm systems never worked that way. I've seen this happen when an owner lost his original keys and tried to save some bucks by putting in a separate alarm.

I think that this conversion will be cheaper in the long run. I don't know what they're charging for R-12 lately, but you can rest assured that the price will continually go up. ;)

It's a little hard to explain but I'll try. If you turn the drivers side tie rod so the direction of the front of the tire is shifted to the left and then turn the passenger side tie rod the same amount to shift that tire also to the left then the toe in would remain the same, but the only thing that will change is the steering wheel position. This was done by Lexus on my '94ES when I had to bring it back to correct my steering wheel so the spokes were centered when driving on a straight road. The car did not have to go back on the alignment machine to do this, and it was done in a matter of minutes. And this is how they told me it was corrected! So there. :chairshot: and a double :chairshot:

When I said to move the tie rod ends, I meant they turn them in opposite directions to keep the toe in the same, but it repositions the spokes on the sterring wheel. It does NOT affect the alignment!!

SK- Sometimes I feel you answer questions just to be argumentative. When I said, "Generally, bulbs either work or they don't." These are the most common causes, NOT arcing filaments! When I said, "Make sure to tell them to "Centralize the Steering", this is generally all that is needed to correct these problems. Of course the rack mis-alignment is possible, but not very common. When I suggest something, it's to correct a problem with the simplest way first, before going on to the more complex fixes. ;)

Before changing the bulb, make sure that the socket is clean. Sometimes the bulb contacts become oxidized and will result in a fast flashing. Generally, bulbs either work or they don't. A proper wheel alignment will correct this problem. Make sure to tell them to "Centralize the Steering". Actually though, the centering of the steering wheel does not require a wheel alignment because it's a separate operation. Example: On a few occasions when I had wheel alignments done, the wheel alignment was correct, but the steering wheel was off. They correct this by moving the tie rod ends in or out. This does NOT affect the alignment.

Are you sure the backrest hook is engaging the seat properly on both sides? If they are, you sometimes have to push the rear backrest down with considerable force. Then once it's down the bottom bolts should line up properly with the brackets. I haven't done this in quite awhile, so I don't know whether there was any adjustments for the top hooks.

Then keep the original size tires........they'll give you the best balance between handling & smoothness.

It seems that this tire profile is fairly radical, so I would say that it would affect the ride quality(smoothness) of your car. It would definitely improve the cornering though. There is always a tradeoff. ;)

Personally, I feel that this explanation is a lot of bull! I'm not going to go into the details, as I, and many more drivers have the same complaint for over 3 years. :chairshot:

Register your car at Lexus and they'll send you an owners manual......free! Owners Manual

I'm looking for your feelings concerning the 2005 Chrysler 300c, compared to anything in the Lexus lineup of models. It has some pretty impressive stats.

Go see "Farenheit 9/11 and you'll see what an idiot your president really is! Just look at his panicked expression when he was told that the U.S. is under attack. He just sat there dumbfounded for at least 7 minutes, instead of reacting immediately like the head of this country should have done! :chairshot: P.S. There's plenty more reasons why I won't vote for him. So there! ;)

Wow, after reading all the posts in this thread I definitely could feel your frustration. I'm surprised at Lexus of Massapequa giving you such a hard time with your CPO vehicle. I know plenty of people that bought CPO Lexus's from Bay Ridge Lexus of Brooklyn, and all the things such as scratches, dents, and mainly all the equipment that originally came with the car (Keys), were supplied to the new purchaser. All these things were corrected before they put the car into their pre-owned showroom. That was my understanding of how the Lexus Corporation operates with CPO cars. A phone call to Lexus headquarters is mandatory to complain about this shoddy treatment. Remember: "The squeaky wheel gets the grease".

If I recall the sequence of operation was like this with the factory radio & CD changer on my '94ES. 1- First - Power off, then turn on radio(Either AM or FM), and the antenna staff rises. At this point if you press the CD button on the radio the staff does not retract. 2 - If you turn on the power when the system was last on CD operation the antenna does not go up. It will go up when you press the AM or FM button. I hope this explanation is not as clear as mud.

Egg plant purple.

Lexus wants you to use automatic transmission fluid.......NOT power steering fluid!

It could be anything in the ignition chain like, Spark plugs, Ignition wires, Distributor, etc. BTW: How many miles do you have on your spark plugs? Maybe a good old fashioned tune up is all you need.

NeiLtYmE- The 2.8 liter engine was the bigger engine offered in this car. It was also an option in the Oldsmobiles. Just a little trivia. :D

Ideally, it's always best to change them both, but you can get away with changing only the weak one. If you listen carefully to each strut as they open you can hear a hissing sound which is louder on the better strut. It's hard to say what the life of a hood strut is, because sometimes they last very long and sometimes they don't. I wouldn't consider this a normal maintenance item though.

There is the possibility that one of the struts went bad, or was weak causing the hood to slam shut. If both the struts were bad you would find it very difficult to even lift up the hood.

Follow the red arrows. They point to the hood struts.

I guess I'm the old man on this board.....just turned 72 this June. Does this mean I get more respect. hee hee :P You know what they say: "With age comes wisdom" double hee hee B)

14 Months ago I traded in my 1994 ES(I was the original owner), with 53,000 miles for my present '03. They allowed me $8000. for the trade in. It was resold by Lexus for $10,000 within 1 week. The car was immaculate. This will give you some idea of prices. I think the price of the car you're contemplating seems very good......if it was as good as mine. ;)