92Lex

You should look into Memphis amps....for the money it's way better than alpine. Are you looking for sound quality or just hard hitting bass? What do you mean by what do you need for the install? Like wires and stuff?

How much are you planning on spending for those items? I spent about $1k for this setup : Headunit = Alpine CDA-7998, components = MB Quart Q series, subwoofer = JL 12w6v2, amp = Soundstream 800.5...there's plenty of bass AND sound quality.

Yes, go get the alternator checked out.

No, it's not a hard job....I'll walk you through it with pictures too if you decide to change your alternator....let me know.

Take a look at the mileage....chances are that you need a valve adjustment anyways.

I just ordered 2 Denso OEM ox sensors off of Ebay $97 delivered - you're correct this is a wear item so I should just change them and move on.  Does anyone have a good procedure to remove the sensors?  Can I use an open wrench?  DO I have to worry about these being frozen in or breaking?

Thanks again!

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Go to www.lexls.com , he has a O2 sensor tutorial with pictures if that's what you're looking for. Open box wrenches are fine...but if you have access to a flare nut wrench or O2 sensor socket it would be even better. Hard to remove....yes....but it shouldn't break on you (it's like removing a spark plug)

Right on wwest.

Never assume when it comes to repairing these vechicles because it can get costly very quick. Honestly, I don't think the compression in that cylinder is high at all.

To help remove some of the carbon build up from your combustion chamber go buy a can of SeaFoam.

If you feel strong about your theory then pull out a spark plug...use a scope to look at the top of your piston(s). If you see excessive carbon build up then use a top engine decarbonizer.

I think that if there is excessive carbon build up in your combustion chamber that you'd hear a "pinging". I doubt that you have excessive carbon build up in one of cylinders...when you did your compression test you warmed it up to normal operating temperatures right?

Good for performance but bad for MAF sensors.

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How so?

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Silvermate explained it in his post above....it's possible for the oil from the filter contaminate the MAF sensor.

If it had something to do with the ignition you would be able to see it on the scope. Does your rpm change when it jerks? If it had something to do with the clearance of the valves it would of showed up when you did the compression test.

Try what lexus400 said....clean your throttle body. Try that first and if the problem is still present then just repost.

Torque converter, intermittent maf sensor, low fuel pressure, malfuntioning fuel pump?

Im fron sac too so I could help you with the install if you want.

I suggest that you get some components....type r's are going to hit hard but it wouldn't matter how hard they hit if you don't have components to round it off. Which Alpine amp are you using? Did you buy everything already or are you still trying to decide? If you haven't bought everything yet then tell me how much you're looking to spend, because if you invest your money in the right stuff you'll be able to get a better setup for about the same price. Are you into SPL or SQ?

Does it jerk when your foot in on the pedal or off?

Good for performance but bad for MAF sensors.

Yea, it should pop right off. I'm not sure what size they are though....just pop them off and check.

It sure can. Take a look at the cylinder you suspect is carbon fouled... if it is then use a top engine decarbonizer. If you have access to a dyno then throw it on the dyno and see if the NOx is high.

Oh hang on...so your car feels normal when it's cold but jerks once it warms up to normal operating temperature? Are you sure it's not fuel related?

I agree with lexusl400, a 10% difference is acceptable.

If you think it might be the fuel you're using that's at fault then switch to a different station and see how it goes.

Or switch your O2 sensors to the other side....if you get a code for bank 2 then there's your problem.

www.craigslist.org

Forced induction.

Get a digital storage oscilloscope and hook it up to your O2 sensors....take a look at the cross counts on the scope and make sure it's switching from rich to lean evenly. It should cross the .450mv mark at least 2 times per second....also if the voltage dips into the negative value then you have a bad sensor. Make sure you test and check other sensors first because based on the order of influence the O2 sensor isn't the most important one. Order of air/fuel influence is : tach, maf, ect, iat, o2.

If you get a brand new OEM exhaust or if you get an aftermarket exhaust?

You have to use a quality digital storage oscilloscope....hook the red wire to sensor signal and black wire to the signal ground...check to make sure the frequency increases when the volume of air entering the induction system increases...there's actually more to it then what I've explained but if you buy or rent a oscilloscope I'll be more than happy to walk you through it.

Yup, it could be an exhaust or vacuum leak before the O2 sensors...but you should check all sensors first before looking for the leak (unless it's an obvious leak).

It could be your O2 sensor(s) like modman said....but yeah, it might be that MAF sensor you bought at the junk yard. Test the MAF sensor before you replace it with another one....you tested your old sensor right?

There's an aftermarket radio installation kit available at http://www.sfxaudio.com

Click on "shop" then click on installation accessories.

The kit is a perfect fit and is very clean compared to the ones I've seen on Ebay. http://www.lexls.com has a tutorial on how to replace your stock headunit with an aftermarket stereo.

Replace bulb with a new 9004 halogen bulb...then reassemble everything in reverse order...do the same to the other side. I used Sylvannia Silverstars 9004 halogens (they're very bright)....I only paid $20 for brand new ones on Ebay.