92Lex

Now you're ready to remove the bulb....grab the base like so and just pull it straight out:

Picture of bulb removed:

Grab that black ring and twist it counter clockwise to remove it:

Picture of the ring removed:

Slide the harness off...you might have to use a screw driver to pop it off:

Now you're ready to remove the headlight assembly...simply grab and swivel it out like how I have it in the picture...then you should be able to pull it away from the vehicle. (The wires are still connected so don't try to pull it completely off of the vehicle...just enough so that you'll have enough room to remove the bulb):

Remove this 10mm bolt:

Remove this 10mm bolt:

Use the socket to remove this 10mm bolt:

Remove this 10mm nut:

Remove the parking light assembly:

Grab that grey plastic base and twist it like 1/8" clockwise, then pull out the parking light bulb (bulb size is 168)...if you're only changing the corner bulbs then stop here, pull the bulb straight out, replace with new 168 bulb and assemble everything in reverse order...if you're planning on replacing the headlight bulbs then continue with the next steps.

Use your fingers or a flat head screwdriver and pry it open, then pull the corner out (you'll feel resistance but it will pop out) from here:

It took me less than 20 minutes total to remove, clean up and put both sides back together.

You'll need:

Phillips screw driver

10mm socket

Remove this (1) phillips head screw to remove corner:

Is a certified test and repair station doing the repairs/diagnosis on your car? Can you list exactly what has been serviced on your car ever since you owned it? Did you just tell the technician to replace your spark plugs and catalytic converter(s) or did you actually let the technician diagnose the problem?

The reason your old catalytic converters failed is because of overheating due to your excessively rich running conditions. If you don't find the culprit of why your vehicle is running rich, your catalytic converters will go bad again.

I think it might be your Mass Air Flow sensor...there's many reasons why your vehicle will run rich...so don't hold me or anyone else to this because it's actually almost impossible to tell you exactly where to look.

You definitely have a rich condition (too much fuel and not enough air).

It could be anything though....high fuel pressure, leaking fuel injectors, clogged air filter, fuel saturated oil, MAF sensor, ruptured fuel pump diaphragm, unproper routing of vacuum hoses, circuits shorting to ground, vacuum switches malfuntioning, ignition system malfunction....you get the point. You should definitely have the ignition system checked out first because of the high HC failure.

Take your car to a test AND repair station and let them do the diagnostics...they'll guaranty that your car will pass the emissions test after repairs.

If an engine is rebuilt can you legally start the mileage over on the cluster board at 0 again?  Technically, wouldn't it be like starting back at 0?  I'm not selling my car, of course, but what would you tell someone who's interested in purchasing your car if they ask the mileage but your engine has been rebuilt to new again?

Sorry for the ignorant question.  But I gotta know what I don't know.

←

I doubt it because the counter tells you how many miles is actually on the vehicle/chassis. If you have receipts then just keep those as proof of mileage on the engine when it was rebuilt.

If CO goes up usually HC will also be elevated. If your HC is high because of a misfire your CO should be low because in order to have CO you must have spark. So high CO and HC together is usually from a rich running condition like SRK said. You had BOTH of your catalytic converters replaced right?

obergc:

Haha...I know how that feels (I dropped one of those rubber caps from the distributor caps down that thing).

I mean a complete maintenance manual. Perticulary one that tells me torqueing specifications for bolts, lugs and other things of that nature. I got one for my BMW from Bentley Publishers, but they only print manuals for european cars.

←

I have a 1991 LS 400 (hence my screen name) and I have both repair manual volumes. They sell the 91 LS 400 repair manuals on E-Bay for $120-$150, like 92Lex said above, but I'll sell you mine for cheaper. Let me know if you're interested.

My e-mail is brianstyles@lexusownersclub.com

P.S. No one is actually selling a 91 LS 400 repair/maintenance manual on E-Bay right now. And even if you do find one, trust me, they're priced WAY TOO damn high.

←

How much do you want for the manuals?

You only changed the spark plugs and nothing else at all for the tune-up? Can you scan your test results again so I could see them? How does your car run after the timing belt change? Does it idle rough? Has the air filter been replaced?

1991LS400,

Valve adjustment?

Go to KBB.com to find out how much your vehicle would go for. I wouldn't even sell it if I were you though....it doesn't get better then that.

Get a Lexus repair manual....I see them on Ebay go for $120-150 for volume 1&2.

:chairshot: I purchased a 93 ls 400 with 82000 miles for $4200, the car was in florida, me in California, I just got the delivery, first time i took it out the whole speedometer clister went dark, could not see anything, still it is black, does anybody where i I can get a cluster, I still looking for kinks, SO BEWARE WHEN BUYING ON EBAY. MY 90ls 400 has 290k on and runs better than the 93, I was a taught a lesson, Great Forum.

chet

←

How bad does it run? A 93 w/ 82k for $4200 isn't bad...I looked it up on Kelley's Blue Book and even in fair condition it would be worth $7200. Just look at it as the seller adjusted the price to compensate for the cost of repairs.

I'd say it to myself just to make myself feel better...hah.

like wut Lexls said... check out his site.  It covers an extensive DIY.  Some i wouldn't dare to touch, but you might.  Also, you might want to check some of the tutorials that 92lex (drunk squarrel guy :P  ;) ) did.  He did quite a few too in this club.  You can find 92Lex's tutorials @ the main page and if you scroll close to the bottm there is a section called Tutorials.

If you don't want to DIY, i would suggest the next best thing is bringing to a Toyota Dealer.  They can get the work done for a fraction of the price of going to Lexus unless your well off.  But judging by what you stated, your going to be like almost everyone of us, not willing to pay the big $$$$ for a over charged mechanic for your car.  But generally of course the service is good.  So you'd rather DIY or bring to a Toyota Dealer or bring to a mechanic you can trust.

Good luck with your car and your driving with class now.  Enjoy it. B)

←

Hahah, yeah. Thanks for directing it within the club...good goin'!

hey guys, i was looking at my car it has air suspendtion but it doesnt seem to have the ;black controler module... my friends car has it , but i dont for some reason??  is there a way i could set it up to lower at the flip of a switch?? hmm thoughts guys?

←

Do you have switches (sport/norm) around your shifter?

you can adjust the idle by adjusting the TPS...i've done it.

←

Yep.

Russ, take a look at the throttle body cleaning tutorial on my site. I would do that first before going out and replacing expensive parts. It sounds like you just have a low idle and a dirty TB can contribute to that.

←

Great advice!! It wouldn't be fun replacing a $500 part and in the end still have a problem.

$200 for cutting one wire and installing a single switch????  :chairshot:

Check out the link below.

This mod will let you have that and more... (DVD on Nav, camera on anytime).

http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?...indpost&p=45319

$200???? 

←

He has to make a living doesn't he? $200 he mentioned was for the labor of removing the hard to remove navigation screen...not for the cost of cutting a wire.