92Lex

Not much comes out though...I changed my thermostat after I refilled my coolant because I forgot all about it. But yeah, draining like a 1/4 gallon of coolant wouldn't be a bad idea.

So like Lexls said....you could drain some of the coolant, that way you'll avoid the mess. After you're done installing the new thermostat just top it off with a 50/50 mixture of Toyota coolant.

What actually causes the CD player not to eject the burned CD's?

I do smog checks and it's not uncommon for a car to fail a smog check just because of a loose or incorrect gas cap. There was probally low pressure in your gas tank causing the code...evap canistor probally wasn't working because of the low pressure. You should do what Blake said and just disconnect the battery and see if the code comes back.

Thanks. It wasn't fun working on the car and taking pics at the same time but if it'll help someone else down the line later then it's well worth it. There's nothing more satisfying then doing it yourself!

Oh, I did change both idler bearings...I changed pretty much everything that was on the way.

Joe,

Click on Lexus Forums and scroll down towards the bottom to the tutorials. Hell yeah, I'm putting in down for the 916. Say wassup if you see a white 91 sitting coach rims. Do you happen to know a Sharon from the bayarea?

I've added....1st generation timing belt and water pump and a how to remove painted pin stripes..plus a few others. I'm not an expert (I'm only a smog check test only technician) so I'm sure that if I'm able to do these then almost anyone will be capable of doing the same. I found this club and people here to be very helpful so hopefully my tutorials will give back somehow. If I missed anything please feel free to add to it.

*If you are going to flush the radiator then do this before you add the 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water....follow the directions on the back of the radiator flush bottle then proceed with adding the coolant*

Once all the coolant has drained out you're going to want to tighten all the drain !Removed!...mix a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and the Toyota extended life radiator coolant and add that through the fill bolt (the first picture) till it's full...tighten the filler bolt and torque to 33ft-lbs. Now add coolant into the radiator resevoir and bring it up to the MAX COLD mark...start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes while you monitor the coolant level in the resevoir...continue adding coolant into the resevoir until it remains stable. Place the cap for the radiator coolant resevoir back on....that's all there is to it.

Now take a pair of pliers or just use your hand and loosen the radiator drain !Removed! located on the right side of the radiator....place the bucket with your 2 plastic hoses from the left and right drain !Removed! directly under the radiator drain !Removed!....loosen the drain !Removed! just enough so that coolant will flow out in a steady stream.

Picture of bucket location and plastic tubing.

Get about 5 feet of the plastic tubing and locate the left drain !Removed! on the side of the engine....place one end of the tubing over the drain !Removed! and the other end into your bucket...loosen the 14mm bolt just enough so that coolant will start flowing out in a steady stream. In the pictures I already had the tubing placed over the drain !Removed! and the screw you see next to it is the one that you need to loosen.

Now locate the right drain !Removed! and do the same:

You'll need:

2 gallons of Toyota antifreeze

2 gallons of DISTILLED water

about 10ft of 1/2" diameter tubing

Make sure the vehicle is completely cool before you service the cooling system!

Raise the car and place jackstands under or drive it up on ramps, remove the radiator coolant fill bolt (I'm pointing to it):

Have someone help you do this next part.

Have your help get into the car and pump the brakes 3 times...have them hold the pedal down on the 3rd pump...now you take a 10mm box wrench and loosen the bleeder screw 1/4-1/2 of a turn for about 1-2 seconds then close the bleeder valve (you don't have to tighten it extremely tight, just enough so that the fluid stops flowing). Now instruct your help to release the pedal...check to make sure the fluid level in the resevoir is full...add more fluid to the resevoir to bring it up to the MAX mark every so often...it goes from MAX to MIN in about 5 pumps so make sure you check it all the time. Repeat these steps until the fluid coming out is nice and clear or until there are no air bubbles in the clear plastic tube.

Make sure your help pumps and releases the pedal only when you instruct them to do so. It's very important to keep the brake fluid level in the resevoir full at all times while doing this!!

Open up the brake fluid resevoir, place some paper towels around it to make sure brake fluid doesn't spill all over the place (brake fluid damages paint). Fill the resevoir to the max...make sure you keep the brake fluid in the resevoir full at ALL times to avoid getting air into your system.

I used a dry 1 gallon water container and drilled a hole through the top of it like this, then inserted 1 end of the plastic tube through the hole...the other end went over the bleeder valve.

Bleed your brakes in this order: rear left, rear right, front right, front left.

Jack up the car and start with the rear left wheel, then work your way through. Remove the wheel and remove this rubber cap covering the bleeder valve. Get about 2-3 feet of 3/8" clear plastic tubing and place one end over the bleeder valve like in the picture and the other end into a clean container.

Now get into your car, or better yet, have someone else get in to start the car up for you while you monitor the fluid coming out into the jar. Once about 2 quarts or so comes out and into the jar, shut the car off then add fresh Toyotoa-T-IV fluid through the transmission dipstick tube (add the same amount that came out).

Repeat the above steps until the fluid that comes out is nice and pink, it only took me 7 quarts to achieve this. Attach the ATF hose back to the radiator and check your fluid level...slowly add a few ounces at a time until it sits right at the top of the cold mark on your dipstick (I found it easier to check the cold ATF level).

Remember that the vehicle must be on a flat level surface to check ATF levels. Slowly run your car (at a standstill) through all the gears (P to L) a few times before checking ATF levels.

You could work on it without having to jack up the front end...I had mines up because I was doing an oil change.

Loosen clamp and remove the ATF hose from the drivers side of the radiator. Place a tube over the inlet to the radiator and place the other end into a bucket or jar to catch the old fluid coming out.

Picture of hose to look for (sitting in the drivers seat the hose will be on the left side of the radiator):

Picture of ATF radiator inlet:

Now add 5.6 quarts of oil back in through the oil fill cap. Take your car off of the ramps/jacks and start your car up and let it idle for 5 minutes while you check for leaks. Shut the engine off and let it sit for a couple of minutes then check your oil level. Take note of date and mileage....you're good to go.

Now you're ready to install your new oil filter....take some oil and lubricate the gasket on the oil filter like so. Twist the new filter in by hand until the base is flush...once the gasket makes contact then tighten it 1/2-3/4 of a turn more.

Move your oil drain pan over and position it under your oil filter (that white thing you see in the pictures). Take the oil filter remover wrench and loosen it just enough so oil starts to drip/pour out and let it drain to a slow drip...once it comes to a slow drip then completely twist it off. Clean up the area around the oil filter.

Once the oil comes to a slow drip then reinstall the drain plug and a new gasket. Torque to 14ft-lbs.

Slide under the car and loosen this (1) 14mm oil drain bolt from pan...have your oil catch container ready.

The oil won't just fall right down but rather shoot out like water from a garden hose so be ready to position it and reposition it once the oil flow slows down a bit...no, that's not oil all over my garage...just water.

Jack up the car or drive it up on ramps then loosen oil fill cap and set aside or just kind of lay it there like I did:

How many miles are on your car.

Does it stay on or flash on & off?

If it flashes on & off do not drive it get it service.

If it stays on & you have 60000 miles or more it sounds like your oxygen sensor to me.

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How'd you figure it's the o2 sensor? The code that was retreived probally would of been for a biased o2s or air/fuel ratio too rich/too lean if it were the o2s....it's a possibility but most likely not in his case. It's hard to condem the o2s based on mileage alone.

Install new filter and tighten bracket, install splash guard.

After installation of your new fuel filter, it is going to be slightly harder to start the car because the new filter is still dry. Don't worry, your vehicle should start up easily once the filter is saturated with fuel again.

I wrapped the fuel line just to slow down the fuel drip.

Loosen the fuel filter bracket (the 2 nuts that secures the bracket to the vehicle), then use 2 box wrenches to loosen both filter like so (repeat on the other side):

You should have a bucket around to catch the dripping fuel while you're doing this.