I have owned my 2000 Lexus rx300 since they came out, but I have never tried to do any kind of mechanical work on it. Just not that guy. Well, my alternator just died and a friend said that it was easy to replace. So....I disconnected the negative on battery, now trying to remove the electrical connections from alternator. One with a few small wires inside came off fairly easily, hope I fidn't greak it. The other I have no idea how to remove. I guess that the connector covers the electrical wire to the battery. Do I push or pull or pry it off? None of these sound like good ideas to me. I atttached a photo of it.
Meanwhile I located and loosened the pivot bolt. Now I am debating how I am going to reach the other 2 bolts I beed to remove. I watched some videos but ghey did not provide enough detail for me. I would appreciate any help.
Hi I am selling my 1995 LS 400. It has approximately 200K miles on it.
This car might need a new steering pump, a new battery and side blinkers. Car has a small dent on the right front fender.
The car has very clean interior, leather has no tears, chrome wheels, new rear tires. Has two rear MagnaFlow mufflers (paid $400) + chrome tips on them. Registration is paid for until Nov 18.
Asking $850 OBO, car needs to go ASAP. Pick up Sherman Oaks, CA
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My guess would be either the first gen rx300 or the most recent gen rx350 because they have the most ground clearance. Not sure how they all compare with locking diffs, gearing, wheel articulation, low end torque, etc since I only own the first gen.
Second question: is the RX a lot worse off road than the LX and GX or are they close?
It seems as though the actuator that moves the passenger's side mirror has become disconnected. Has anyone tried getting into one of these things? It isn't a critical function, but it is quite annoying to have to manually push it out after a carwash or something. It is a '99 if that matters.
I have a 2002 rx300 fwd, and I know I am late to the game, but like just about everyone that has posted here, I also had the same problem and (thanks to many of you) the same solution. I had the filter replaced, system drained, new ATF added and everything worked out great (especially saving the 5k on a new transmission). This was about 2000 miles ago (135k miles on the car).
This past weekend I drove to DC from Pittsburgh and back with no problems what-so-ever, until I pulled onto my street and all of a sudden the car jerked and the rpms shot way up but the car didn't really move (I think it would go about 25pmh while at 5000rpms), like it did just before it quit completely and before I had the filter/fluid replaced. Thinking that maybe the filter was clogged again I replaced filter/fluid a second time. I should note that the fluid looked like it the day I put it in - still very red and hardly anything in the filter.
Now here is the new issue - when you put the car into drive or reverse there is (what my mechanic calls) a delayed engagement. That is to say, after a few seconds the car will finally move. If you push too hard on the accelerator the car will jerk hard and then engage. If you are very easy on the accelerator, if doesn't jerk, but still takes time to engage. Once the car is moving, however, everything is seemingly great. I took it for a test drive on the highway, once I merged into traffic and had the car going about 35mpg it shifted very smoothly. Its just went it idles that it drops out of gear and then has the delayed engagement. My mechanic suggested that it might be the gear pump in the transmission itself, that is failing, and that it is not building up enough pressure when first put into D or R. Any thoughts or guidance here would be greatly appreciated.