1991 Ls400 Wont Crank After Stater Replace.

[superman8589]

Okay I'm fairly new. Let me start by saying my name is robbie and...

I recently traded my 1990 240sx for a 1991 lexus ls400... I traded my running car for a car I had replace the starter in. Previousa owner bought starter and dismantled the intake manifold, okay so I spent whomping hard time trying put starter on..

I connected all wires and everything together (always easier wen one removes parts one selfs rather than another person :/ )

Okay so I went crank the car and nothing.. no spark no motor turn just plain nothing... lights and everything work cluster turns on but nothing at when prompted to start. Only one click which is wen I. Turn key all the way over but its only one click not one other sound...

Oh it also might be informative if I mention I also realized I do not own a master key, only the valet, the previous owner when he purchased the car he only had the valet key... I just purchased this car approx. 2 weeks ago.

[curiousB]

Is the click coming from the starter motor? Is it the solenoid on the starter motor? Is it a single click or a rat tat tat noise as you crank. That could be good news. If that is engaging then problem must be in the high current wiring to the starter. Maybe a loose bolt? Starter motors draw a lot of current so those heavy wires need very tight connections.

Be sure battery terminals are torqued down good and tight and metal to metal connections are fairly clean before torquing.

[thewiz339]

Battery died?

[superman8589]

Okay battery is originally barely holds charge, I been using fiances car with jumper cables to try crank it...

An no it just one click not a rat tat tat tat

[superman8589]

Please help

[superman8589]

Okay, I have gotten to the point where I have decided I'm just going to tear it all apart again maybe I miss something.. maybe I didn't do it right, since essientially its my first time doing a starter on these cars, is there a DIY thread somewhere on this. ..

Also that plug that is in between the intake manifold. Which plug is that I notice previous owner had it all tapped together.

[sha4000]

Okay, I have gotten to the point where I have decided I'm just going to tear it all apart again maybe I miss something.. maybe I didn't do it right, since essientially its my first time doing a starter on these cars, is there a DIY thread somewhere on this. ..

Also that plug that is in between the intake manifold. Which plug is that I notice previous owner had it all tapped together.

Maybe this will help.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/44338-anyone-know-how-to-change-the-starter-in-a-91-ls/

[superman8589]

Thanks that helped some, redid the plugs and fixed, the plug between intake housing... I also rechecked the tubes.

Still nothing, battery I have not changed out just don't have the money. But I try jumping still nothing.. I did came across a sensor/ plug irk I found unbolted idk where it goes espicially since idk what it is nor did I disconnect it.

[superman8589]

[superman8589]

okay latest update... car is still not starting...

starter is new...I ran wire direct from positive wire on starter that was spliced in, put everything back together try crank it but noting, just kne click and u can hear all electronics kickin in but thats it... I tried the wire on battery same results.

new battery. nothing changed... so I thought well what if this motor is locked.. I raised up a bit got down under and turned crank, turns with ease... so motor not locked...I even tried replacing crankshaft positionsensor and nothing changed..

I checked all fuses and relays, there all fine... I went lexus of orlando got a whole new key nothing ( but key now lets me into.my.glove box but still have use lever open trunk

I have official ran out of ideas, I have posted many times and still havent found anything to solve this issue.

[landar]

Hey Robbie, this must be very frustrating for you so let's take a deep breath and hit the 'reset' button. No, not the cars reset button, the troubleshooting button ;)

This may be old stuff to you but let me go back over the basics of activating the starter system.

1) You turn the key in the ignition to the 'start' position.

2) The system (ECU along with ignition switch being turned) energizes the starter relay which is usually located in the fuse box under the hood.

3) The starter relay contacts then supply +12v power to the starter solenoid.

4) The solenoid energizes (its just a big relay) and supplies +12v power to the starter rotor windings via the large positive cable you attached to the starter.

5) The starter begins to spin, the starter pinion gear is 'thrown' into the flywheel gear and the engine begins to spin.

Somewhere along the line, your car is missing a step. Your job is to methodically investigate each step to determine what might be the root cause. I would begin at step 2 above and verify that the starter relay is actually energizing (pulling in). I do not know what 'click' you are hearing but it may be from this relay. If it is pulling in, then why is it not supplying power to the starter solenoid. Go over it all being very careful and, most importantly, making NO assumptions about what is and is not working. Verify everything in this chain of events.

Running out of ideas is not in my vocabulary. Let's get back out there and win one for the 'Gipper'. ^_^

[superman8589]

lol sounds like good plan, ill start that again tonight wen I get home. and yeah it is frustrating due to the fact I live in apt where maintenance is the once decide if ur car gets towed or not lol.. every night I push this car to a new spot so they dont relize its not running so I dont have pay another 210 just get the car towed back on count it dont run lol

[superman8589]

lol sounds like good plan, ill start that again tonight wen I get home. and yeah it is frustrating due to the fact I live in apt where maintenance is the once decide if ur car gets towed or not lol.. every night I push this car to a new spot so they dont relize its not running so I dont have pay another 210 just get the car towed back on count it dont run lol

[landar]

wow, what a hassle not to get towed. Let's get this thing running again soon so you don't have to play musical chairs.

Do not try to do too much at one time because it might lead to mistakes. Just find the little starter relay tonight and verify (maybe with a helper) that it is being energized when you turn the key(put your finger on it and 'feel' for a click). Also put a voltmeter on the contact lines and verify that +12v is being switched. One side of the contacts should have +12v all the time and the other side only when you turn the key to 'start'.

[superman8589]

okay I had my friend check it for me while I was at work since I.was a double today, he said it did click and it is getting power

[landar]

If the starter relay is doing its job (big IF) then the next item to check is the starter solenoid. IF the starter relay is supplying +12v to the solenoid on the starter, why is the starter not whirling?

It could be that the solenoid IS energizing but the contacts are not 'making' (not likely with a new starter). You are now going to have to determine if the solenoid coil is being presented as a load to the starter relay. With the starter relay removed, check the resistance of the contact pin that is connected to the solenoid coil (WRT to ground of course). You should get a fairly low reading (< 10 ohms, maybe?). If it is open, then the solenoid coil is bad or someone forgot to connect it.

So, the next thing to verify is if the solenoid on the starter itself appears to be working. It will make a rather loud clunk when engaging. You can place a long metal tool (like a pipe, long screwdriver) on the back of the intake plenum or manifold with the other end up to your ear, then have someone turn the ignition key. You should heard a distinct click within. Do not mistake the starter relay click with this as the relay should be much 'softer'. You could also just remove the starter relay and momentarily jumper the relay contacts to energize the starter solenoid. That would eliminate the starter relay 'click'. But the solenoid should provide a much harsher sound because it is a much larger relay handling much higher current.

Post your results. You must have great confidence in your friends electrical troubleshooting capabilities!? ^_^

[superman8589]

okay sorry took forever just been raining every day here in orlando on my days off. I managed beat rain today before work and I tried both things again. I do feel a click on the relay, and I stuck screwdriver long one, and im not 100% but I believe I heard a slight click through the manifold but never done that so idk if what I heard is right

[landar]

It sure is sounding like your starter solenoid or starter (I thought it was new?) is not doing its job. But first you will need to do a bit more testing before you tear into it. Do you have and can operate, a multimeter? If so, check for the solenoid resistance (ohms) as I mentioned in my last post. Find the relay and pull it. Identify the contact pins and measure the resistance across the pins. Report back with the value.

So, you live in Orlando. I lived there for 10 years...Dr. Philips area. Worked at Lockheed Martin.

[superman8589]

I have one I need find it lol I work a double tomorrow so probably wont be able do it till sunday afternoon. and it is brand new starter I even had tested make sure and it passed :( and really I work near that area but yet live in winter park so its diff a drive shame u not living here id pay haul this car and get it fixed and me pay u lmfao

[superman8589]

I have one I need find it lol I work a double tomorrow so probably wont be able do it till sunday afternoon. and it is brand new starter I even had tested make sure and it passed :( and really I work near that area but yet live in winter park so its diff a drive shame u not living here id pay haul this car and get it fixed and me pay u lmfao

[landar]

Keep in mind that while the final goal is to get your car running, another major component of this process is to get you more learned in cars as well. Think of it as a good 'edumacation'. Learn to love to learn. It will serve you well throughout your life. <#endof_fatherlylecture> ^_^ ^_^

If your starter is new and works as it should, there are really only several issues that I can think of:

1) Your starter relay is clicking in but there is no +12v power to it so it cannot feed the starter solenoid.

2) The starter relay contacts are bad.

3) A wire is not connected to the starter.

There is not much more left as it is fairly simple and basic. Yet, you still have to be very careful when you make your diagnosis and follow the directions without skipping any steps or you may miss the problem. I have seen it happen many times before with myself and others.

[Zett123]

You need to meter the battery on the terminals around the post to make sure you are getting over 12.5 VDC. If you have the sufficient voltage, it could be a shimming problem with the starter. Meaning, the teeth with the flywheel and starting are not meshing together properly. If possible, you can always loosen the starter, back it out of its location, hold the starter tightly against the block (to ground it) and have someone crank it over to see if the starter gear flies out and starts spinning. If it does what it is supposed to, you have a shimming problem.

You might want to check and see if you are using the correct starter because you mentioned the previous owner brought it.

jz

[fsuguy]

I have one I need find it lol I work a double tomorrow so probably wont be able do it till sunday afternoon. and it is brand new starter I even had tested make sure and it passed :( and really I work near that area but yet live in winter park so its diff a drive shame u not living here id pay haul this car and get it fixed and me pay u lmfao

As Landar suggested, the solenoid should kick out the starter drive gear against a fairly sturdy spring to engage engine flywheel, if it is getting the full amperage of the battery's power. But since the starter motor itself is not engaging, it is possible that either the full power is not being delivered (Check your battery terminal clamps - corrosion on these things cause all sorts of problems!), or alternatively, the solenoid spring is preventing the drive gear from engaging the flywheel and subsequently not allowing the starter motor to energize. I think if you had a meshing problem there would be a terrible screeching, like a herd of scalded banshees!

Since you are getting a "click", the solenoid is getting some voltage, but it may not be getting enough. Check the battery cable clamps, and the cables themselves. If these are good - solid connections, and no frayed wires (look for green stuff under the insulation near the battery terminals or near connections), then the problem area is most likely the solenoid itself (Is it new like the starter? If not, it is possible the contact plate is pitted due to sparking and you are not getting enough voltage across to the starter winding), the throw-out mechanism is sticking or jammed (the bearing should have been well greased before assembly). Of course, I am assuming that all your other work is fine.

You mention that you had the starter motor tested and it "passed" - how did you test it? Also, since you got the car with this starter issue I think there may be some doubt about the replacement starter itself. This must be very frustrating for you and I hope you can get it fixed without too much more trouble. Good luck.

[superman8589]

it is and still no luck finding it I rhink I might lefr it in tampa before move. I get paid Wednesday imma have fo buy another multimeter, and I haven't notice any corrosion by terminal nor fri wires. clamps on battery terminal are new found some terminal replacement in drawer and replaced the stock ones just in case.. and by testes I took it to autozone had them run it on the mach ine.. and it indeed is right part I had guy run the part number on box in his system and it matched

[landar]

If the issue were the battery or bad connection(s) to the battery, you would get a series of rapid clicks and not just one. This because the system 'oscillates' due to the inability to supply adequate current. Does not appear to be your problem from what you have described thus far.

You can try a test by simply turning on your headlights. If the headlights come on normally (fairly bright) and stay that way for approx. one minute, then your battery/connection(s) are fine.