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Spark Plugs 101


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I have a '99 ES300 with ~169,000 miles on it. I have a Haynes manual and would like to learn how to change my own spark plugs. First, what tools do I need to accomplish this? I had read in a haynes manual that one of the last steps to get the plug back in is to use some type of tube to get them on. I'm confused by then. Does anyone know of any good videos or step by steps to do this job?

Apologize for being such a noob but I have love my car.

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Please, just have someone knowledgeable in the brand help you with the spark plug change. At this mileage their are many obstacles that could challenge your abilities . Age, aluminum cylinder heads, and no expirence Is not good , have fun with it grill out and change plugs with a skilled tech and learn something along the way.

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I agree to some degree. This is not an easy job, and daunting to those folks w/ even moderately good auto mechanic skills.

That warning said, you'll need a lot of time, patience and a lot of tools. What makes changing the spark plugs difficult on these v-6 engines, is that the rear bank is underneath the intake system, which has to be removed down to the intake manifold, much of this requires working between the rear bank and the firewall where there is only an inch or two of free space. The first time I did this it took 5+ hours just to take it apart, and I broke a few fasteners on the way in, including plastic/connectors on the coil packs.

Aside from a full set of 3/8ths and 1/2 inch drive sockets (regular and deep, including 8mm, 10 mm, 12 mm and 14 mm), you'll need a torx set (for a few strange bolts on the plenum), socket extensions, and a lot of liquid wrench or similar penetrant (I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf, works better than anything). You should also take pictures of everything before and during the process, as there are about 10-15 hose connections, 10-15 wire connectors that get confusing if you don't document them going in. Lastly you'd benefit from a magnetic spark plug socket, as the plugs rest at the bottom of 4-5 inch tubes and it's difficult to pick them up w/ needle nose in the rear bank as the tubes are oriented at a 45 degree angle to the perpendicular.

I don't know what a professional would charge for this but it is labor intensive. Using iridium plugs that last 100k is a good investment as you don't want to do this often.

LL

Good luck.

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Gentlemen,

I agree, a newby should NOT attempt a spark plug change on an engine with this intake configuration. It is a recipe for an expensive disaster. Doing the same job on a 4 cylinder Toyota or Honda would be a good place to start to learn. Everything is right out front and easy to get to. The back 3 plugs on an ES are a replacement nightmare.

That said, I have come across a posting quite some time ago (2 years or so) of a backyard mechanic who did these same 3 back plugs on his ES, WITHOUT removing the intake and all. He said that the required tools for the job were, in order of importance, LOTS of patience, small hands, and a (for lack of a better term) spin ratchet. A spin ratchet is one where instead of swinging the ratchet handle back and forth, you can also just turn the handle grip clockwise and counterclockwise, while the ratchet is stationary.

As I recall, he said it took him quite a while to do, simply because you're doing the job blind, and just by feel. Personally, I bought just such a ratchet in preparation for tackling the job myself, on my wife's 04 ES330. I just have to wait for her to pile on another 38 000 km and I'll find out how easy it is myself. And yes, I'm a backyard mechanic, who has been in the backyard quite a while. If the spin ratchet method doesn't pan out, I'll tackle the plug change the old fashioned way.

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Quarter inch drive and 3 inch extension required. On The RX300 it can be done without removing the intake....It is definetly tight. Do the fronts first for practice as you can see, and the back will be mostly by feel....

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My wife has a 2003 ES 300 with 119,000 miles, just got an oil change yesterday morning and was told that I need the following things done to the vehicle:

1. Valve cover gasket

2. Timing belt

3. Rack and pinion is leaking

4. Tune up

5. Flush the brake fluid

6. Power steering service

7. Fuel injection service

8. Rear axle is leaking

Unfortunately I don't have the capital to get everything done at once but I'm going to create a gameplane to correct each of these items but I would like to know if it's OK for me to purchase some of the products myself and give them to my auto mechanic to install - my goal is to use superior products so my wife's car can add an additional 100K miles if she wish to keep it as a second car in the future.

Are there recommended websites that offer excellent aftermarket products superior to the OEM products or would it be ideal to get the items directly from the dealer's service center or should I let my mechanic purchase the products through his normal support system?

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dcasanares,

First, the car is off warranty at this age and any competent independent mechanic can do the work cheaper than a Lexus dealer, simply due to the shop rate difference.

Second, every shop makes a certain profit from the parts and fluids it uses to do the work on your car. For you to show up with your own brake fluid, timimg belt, and other items, is likely to ruffle some feathers. I would sure ask the mechanic first, before I went this route.

Thirdly, for the age of the vehicle and the mileage on it, you don't need to spend the extra money on SUPERIOR items. Use OEM timing belt parts (belt, idler pulley, belt tensioner) if you must, but aftermarket parts will do the job just as well, if you don't go the really cheap options that are out there.

Regular, suggested maintenance, and careful use of the car, will give you far more life expectancy than you are even seeking at 219 000 miles. Just be sure that all that you've been told needs to be done, actually needs to be done. Get under it yourself, or get another opinion on each of the items.

The timing belt should come first (at 100 000 miles I believe), followed by the brake flush (suggested every 4 years) and the tuneup and fuel injection service, but they are only required if the car is running rough. Otherwise push that item further down the road. As for the leaks, how bad are they? Can they wait awhile if they are small? Then again, maybe they spoil your interlocking brick driveway, and need to be addressed sooner.

You have some options, you have some time, and you have a well built car with a reliable reputation, if its not beat on and is driven responsibly and cared for. But you don't need to go overboard, unless you have the time and money for the peace of mind it will give you.

As an aside, you really should have started another thread on your topic. You would most likely get more responses that way. Good Luck!

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  • 1 month later...

My wife has a 2003 ES 300 with 119,000 miles, just got an oil change yesterday morning and was told that I need the following things done to the vehicle:

1. Valve cover gasket

2. Timing belt

3. Rack and pinion is leaking

4. Tune up

5. Flush the brake fluid

6. Power steering service

7. Fuel injection service

8. Rear axle is leaking

Unfortunately I don't have the capital to get everything done at once but I'm going to create a gameplane to correct each of these items but I would like to know if it's OK for me to purchase some of the products myself and give them to my auto mechanic to install - my goal is to use superior products so my wife's car can add an additional 100K miles if she wish to keep it as a second car in the future.

Are there recommended websites that offer excellent aftermarket products superior to the OEM products or would it be ideal to get the items directly from the dealer's service center or should I let my mechanic purchase the products through his normal support system?

1. Valve cover gasket (PITA to do the rear, front is easy)

2. Timing belt (You can do it yourself if you have the time/tools just need to follow the direction on the service repair. There are lot of how to with picture and direction would save you lots of $$.) http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-and-es330/472211-timing-belt-replacement-and-other-needed-parts.html

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=97022

3. Rack and pinion is leaking (There is also a How to with picture and detail) http://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/442710-boots-leaking-steering-rack-rack-and-pinion-replacement-diy.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/351649-diy-rack-pinion-removal-install-flush-toe-lots-pics.html

4. Tune up (replace your spark plug wire and spark plug, air filter cabin filter brake, rotors etc..)

5. Flush the brake fluid (easy to do there are tons of video on youtube)

6. Power steering service (easy to do as well search youtube) http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/psflush.html

7. Fuel injection service (youtube is your friend)

8. Rear axle is leaking (Again if you have the tools and can follow direction you can accomplished all these task)

I don't have $$$ to take this to a mechanics I takle all these jobs by myself. I just like to learn and save $$$ by doing the service myself.

I don't have any experience I start doing the repair myself by watching youtube and How to guide with picture. I think that if you put in the time and learn

little by little you can gain experience in the long run and save $$$. That just my two cent.

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