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Replacing A Rear Bearing Hub Assembly On A 2004 Lexus Rx330

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It is the same.

 

Bad hub bearing is a gowoling / howling sound and not clunking though. check your sway bar bushing, end link, or strut mounts first before you replace a hub bearing that is still good.

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1 hour ago, Hajoca said:

It is the same.

 

Bad hub bearing is a gowoling / howling sound and not clunking though. check your sway bar bushing, end link, or strut mounts first before you replace a hub bearing that is still good.

Thanks for the heads up!

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I thought bearing has to be pressed in to the hub via knuckle. Which meanes I have to take hub + bearing and knuckle to the pshop to get it pressed. please confirm.

Thanks

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The front bearings will need to be pressed in / out. Try using some large bolts, plates and pipe to make your won press

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This guide is a great resource; thank you.

I have a 2008 RX350 with 172K miles.  I am hearing something starting at about 39 mph which then goes away as speed increases and then comes back and then goes away repeatedly as speed increases.  Is there anything besides a wheel bearing that this could be?   Putting it in neutral and letting the RPM drop has no effect so it's not the engine but I suppose it could be trans or xfer related.  I leaning to it being a rear bearing but not sure.  I had one replaced years ago but the paperwork is ambiguous as one place it says left and another place it says right.  That cost over $600 at a small shop.  I've been doing brakes for years so this seems like something I could do.

The other day I jacked up right rear and then left rear with the wheels chocked and car in neutral.  Turning right rear took some effort but I did not notice any roughness.  Left rear took effort and I thought I felt some roughness so that might be it.  No play noticeable on either so maybe it's not that far gone.

If I had or could borrow an IR camera, I would drive a while on some back road; avoid using the brakes, and just coast to a halt and get out and see which bearing warmed up the most.  But I don't know if that would be visible externally but maybe from underneath.

I saw a video where a runout gauge was used but there must be an easier way.  My attempt to record audio near each wheel just gave me a lot of wind noise.

Some questions:

Are the rear hub bearings the same for both sides?  Seems like it from looking up parts.

Real quick, I jack it up, remove and tie up caliper, remove caliper bracket.  Remove disk rotor.   What is the best way to pound out the dimple in the nut?   
Then bar the hub to keep from turning or replace wheel, lower it to ground and do it through the center hub.
Then remove the four bolts.
Could someone elaborate on how that part that holds the parking brake fits into this situation?  Is that just held by the four bolts.  I realize this might and hopefully becomes obvious once I am into it.

I don't think I want to pound the shaft but I do have a puller I hope to use.

How difficult is it to get the new part seated on the splines?

Anyone know the torque requirement for t he four bolts, and even more important, the big nut?

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The dimple in the nut - just pry at it with a screwdriver or an awl.

Then put wheel back on with a couple of lug nuts and lower it so tire is on the ground and loosen the nut.

I used a piece of wood between the shaft and hammer. You want to push the shaft inward, Puller won't work.

Jack it up and take tire off, disc off, and remove the bolts holding the hub on. Tap the flange and it should come off.

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On 8/25/2012 at 4:19 PM, Lakeeffectsledhead said:

Good write up. I googled and found this to confirm my suspicions on my car. Very helpful!!!

I performed the repair on the right, rear wheel this morning on my 2006 rx330. I already had both a 30 and 32mm deep well twelve point socket in my arsenal, and it turns out you will need a 30mm for a 2006. The entire job took me about an hour. I did a couple things a little different. To loosen the axle nut, I placed a long pry bar between two of the wheel studs and let the pry bar push against the garage floor, at the same time prying on the breaker bar with the 30mm socket on the end. This saved a lot of time and lifting as opposed to putting the tire back on and letting the jack down to keep the hub from spinning. I also used a small torch and heated 6 areas around the axle nut to break it free, as i had no success with my first attempt. Heating the nut allowed it to spin off with almost no effort.

After the nut was off, rather than hitting the end of the axle shaft with a hammer, I used a $30 gear puller. The gear puller popped the hub and brake dust plate off with just a couple turns.

Lastly, I know that this will make some of you cringe, but I opted for a hub/bearing set that cost only $58.00. Only time will tell, but I've changed a hub bearing or two in my lifetime, and they always outlast the car after being changed. The OEM hub lasted until about 107,000 miles. If this one goes out before the next 107,000, I'll just change it again. If it only lasts 10,000 miles, then I will upgrade to the $150 Timken hub I found.

As a side note, prior to deciding which side needed to be changed, I sat in both sides of the rear seat while my wife was driving. The noise was twice as loud on the right.

The best sound I've heard in the last few months was actually silence from the rear during my test drive after repairs. What a relief that was. "Honey, do you hear that? Hear what? Exactly."

Dealer quote: $1250

Total cost: $58.00

Tony

I used a gear puller like you did but all it did on mine was push the spindle back into the bearing assembly.  I ended up just hitting the sides of the hub and it came off.  Then I turned the bearing assembly and backing plate over and hit the bearing a few times and it popped out. 

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I am looking to replace the rear wheel hub assembly on my 2004 RX330 AWD.  There are several assemblies available.  NSK has one with the built in sensor ($110) and one without the sensor ($85).  My question is which one does the car take?

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