filmteknik

Mechanic figured it out as he showed me the whole hub replacement procedure. (It was the other side after all.) While the pin towards the front of the car is straight the one towards the rear has, as I said, a dog leg bend to it. Apparently my wiggling & angling the disk to remove it (instead of cranking back the parking brake adjuster) caused some of that dog leg bend to be reduced making it a little bit straighter and thus a little longer. A visit to the vice with a few taps of the hammer put some of the angle back in and now it clears just fine. Got to "drive" while 3 feet up in the air while he listened to each side. That was interesting.

I've been hearing a sound which most say is probably a wheel bearing. I have many years of experience with basic brake work and based on my online research I figured I could probably manage replacing a rear hub but a front I'd probably take it to a garage. The question was what wheel. A mechanic who did a ride-along said he's 95% sure it's a bearing and definitely the rear. But I never did figure out which side. Let me just preface the rest of this by saying yesterday I gave up and took it to the mechanic for repair. One reason I threw in the towel was something to do with the parking brake. Having never had rear disks off on this vehicle yesterday I decided to pull left rear and see if there was anything I could see to help determine which bearing was going bad. I jacked up left rear, removed and tied up the caliper and removed the caliper bracket. Disk was on there pretty tight so I did the 8mm bolt thing to break it free. It didn't come right off after that and I goofed by not backing off the parking brake adjuster. I wiggled it off. Bad idea. When it came off, the left (towards the front of the car) retaining spring and cup fell to the ground. I put them back on. I suppose that is okay. But when I looked over to the right (rearwards on the car) that one was a lot looser. Not sure how it is supposed to be but this cannot be right as it will be hit by the back of the wheel studs of the hub. How could this be? Yeah, maybe if the head of the pin (as I call it was broken off in back but that's not the case. Also, I see this one is not straight but does a kind of dogleg job. I presume that's correct. Is it? Anyway, with the spring and cups removed and me holding it in position from behind the pin will contact the hub. So what gives? What could I have done to cause this? Could the axle shaft have shifted somehow? I needed to do something so as a purely TEMPORARY measure I put some washers on the back side of the pin to pull it back and clear of the hub on the near side. So with it shimmed in back like that the the spring looked like this. At least it's clear of the hub. Anyway, I'm not driving it like this. Just the block & a half to the garage. Told them to do the bearing repair and said to look into the parking brake and I showed them the pictures. Really curious what's going on. I realize I erred by rocking the disk around instead of backing off the adjuster but I just can't see how the spring pin & cup would NOT be hitting the hub. Unless something shifted.

This guide is a great resource; thank you. I have a 2008 RX350 with 172K miles. I am hearing something starting at about 39 mph which then goes away as speed increases and then comes back and then goes away repeatedly as speed increases. Is there anything besides a wheel bearing that this could be? Putting it in neutral and letting the RPM drop has no effect so it's not the engine but I suppose it could be trans or xfer related. I leaning to it being a rear bearing but not sure. I had one replaced years ago but the paperwork is ambiguous as one place it says left and another place it says right. That cost over $600 at a small shop. I've been doing brakes for years so this seems like something I could do. The other day I jacked up right rear and then left rear with the wheels chocked and car in neutral. Turning right rear took some effort but I did not notice any roughness. Left rear took effort and I thought I felt some roughness so that might be it. No play noticeable on either so maybe it's not that far gone. If I had or could borrow an IR camera, I would drive a while on some back road; avoid using the brakes, and just coast to a halt and get out and see which bearing warmed up the most. But I don't know if that would be visible externally but maybe from underneath. I saw a video where a runout gauge was used but there must be an easier way. My attempt to record audio near each wheel just gave me a lot of wind noise. Some questions: Are the rear hub bearings the same for both sides? Seems like it from looking up parts. Real quick, I jack it up, remove and tie up caliper, remove caliper bracket. Remove disk rotor. What is the best way to pound out the dimple in the nut? Then bar the hub to keep from turning or replace wheel, lower it to ground and do it through the center hub. Then remove the four bolts. Could someone elaborate on how that part that holds the parking brake fits into this situation? Is that just held by the four bolts. I realize this might and hopefully becomes obvious once I am into it. I don't think I want to pound the shaft but I do have a puller I hope to use. How difficult is it to get the new part seated on the splines? Anyone know the torque requirement for t he four bolts, and even more important, the big nut?

Is it 65mm or 64mm? From what I gather online the TOY640 wrench referred to is 64mm. I bought some POS 65mm wrench at Pepboys which allowed sufficient torque to open it but I can't really tighten it very well as is slips. I think the outer flutes are actually 67mm. With limited open stores today (Easter Sunday) I found something that looked similar (dual level) to what I had but out of plastic and decided I could cut the 67mm level away. The result seems to be a snug fit with the 65mm part but being plastic the 3/8" drive part is too weak. Oh well. I don't see any seepage and it probably doesn't need to be torqued to exactly x Nm but I do want it good n tight and I don't think I am yet. So it's either NAPA if they have it or ordering one online. But which is it, 65mm or 64mm?