93LSOwner Posted January 24, 2004 Posted January 24, 2004 I took the car to the machanic the same one that I have been talking about in last hundered forums. LOL. Said, that tick, tick, tick, tick noise is because the valve filters need to be changed and each one costs about $17 and as you know there are 32 of them. But he said that hopefully not all of them are damaged. The last owner told me that his machanic told him that it is the valves and it will be costly. And it should not be a problem to the car or damage rest of the car in any way. **Are these two guys right, especially the second one*** When I had the oil changed it was real black or bad. So, the last owner didn't changed the oil on time or at least for that period. And my neighbor told me that that valves get damaged and the car is making that noise because the last owner did not change the INEXPENSIVE oil change. *even though I found out that the last owner spend $650 worth of repair and replacements 20,000miles before I bought it, "all 8 new spark plugs, 4 brake pads, etc..................* What an Irony!
SKperformance Posted January 24, 2004 Posted January 24, 2004 never heard of valve filters sounds like smoke up your... it needs to have the valves adjusted with shims or at least and engine oil flush if the valves are sticking then a heavy weight oil perferable synthetic
93LSOwner Posted January 24, 2004 Author Posted January 24, 2004 How much will that cost to have all 32 of them done?
99lsguy Posted January 24, 2004 Posted January 24, 2004 As you can see.... regular maintenance can prevent lots of badness! I bet the "valve job" will be $400-600. Agree with SK.......... I'd try this procedure - it will help "clean your engine". Change the oil and use new filter - just good grade of regular petroleum motor oil ($1.50 quart) and toyota filter. Then, DO IT AGAIN @ 500-1000 miles. This will get some of the gunk out and may QUIET those valves. Total cost $35.00 for two changes. Since I'm on overkill, I would THEN change the oil to SYNTHETIC (mobil 1 is fairly cheap) and run that for 1000 miles. This will REALLY HELP to Clean the sludge. Change again and every 3-5K with Synthetic and ALWAYS USE A NEW, CLEAN OIL FILTER. Total cost for two syn. changes - $70.00. This will help to 'QUIET' and clean the valves / shims. Synthetic oil has quieted my engine. It is the absolute best type of oil you can put in your car. After saying all this, your tapping could still continue but at least you know you've done your part.
wwest Posted January 24, 2004 Posted January 24, 2004 Fuel injector make a ticking sound/noise (sorta quiet, hard to aurally discern except at or near idle) normal thing. Valve lifters are more like clack-clack, and grow louder with RPM.
dpeck Posted January 24, 2004 Posted January 24, 2004 As you can see.... regular maintenance can prevent lots of badness!I bet the "valve job" will be $400-600. Agree with SK.......... I'd try this procedure - it will help "clean your engine". Change the oil and use new filter - just good grade of regular petroleum motor oil ($1.50 quart) and toyota filter. Then, DO IT AGAIN @ 500-1000 miles. This will get some of the gunk out and may QUIET those valves. Total cost $35.00 for two changes. Since I'm on overkill, I would THEN change the oil to SYNTHETIC (mobil 1 is fairly cheap) and run that for 1000 miles. This will REALLY HELP to Clean the sludge. Change again and every 3-5K with Synthetic and ALWAYS USE A NEW, CLEAN OIL FILTER. Total cost for two syn. changes - $70.00. This will help to 'QUIET' and clean the valves / shims. Synthetic oil has quieted my engine. It is the absolute best type of oil you can put in your car. After saying all this, your tapping could still continue but at least you know you've done your part. I agree with changing the oil before going with a valve adjustment it is much cheaper and certainly worth a try. My recomendation something i have practiced for yearsis this. Add about a pint of automatic transmission fluid to your oil and drive for a few days of normal driving then have oil changed with new filter. ATF is highly detergent and will clean away build up from internal engine parts. do not use more than a pint though as to much could be harmfull also do not leave in for more than a week or so before doing your oil change.
90LS400Lexus Posted January 25, 2004 Posted January 25, 2004 I have heard that it is bad to start using synthetic oil in a higher mileage car, if it has never had synthetic. Is this true? Could it be harmful if you do use it for a while, then go back to non-synthetic oils? My car also has this "tick tick tick" sound, but it is not that loud I can only hear it @ idle, when the car is stopped and when the window is down. I have heard that it is not a cause for concern, as long as your oil pressure is good, which I am assuming it is, as my oil pressure light immedietly goes out the moment the engine starts- which means oil pressure is good as soon as the car starts. I have had cars in the past, with noisy lifters and never had a problem. The old Mopar Inline 6-cylinders were well known for noisy lifters and those engines are nearly bulletproof, as are most inline 6-cylinder engines, from most any manufacturer. Thanks.
93LSOwner Posted January 25, 2004 Author Posted January 25, 2004 "My car also has this "tick tick tick" sound, but it is not that loud I can only hear it @ idle, when the car is stopped and when the window is down." 90LS400Lexus Mine is same as yours.
jzz30 Posted January 25, 2004 Posted January 25, 2004 synthetics are fully compatible with non synthetics and all of the myths you hear are almost always false. you can switch back and forth and it wont hurt
monarch Posted January 25, 2004 Posted January 25, 2004 At www.toyota.com there is an owner FAQ that says Toyota owners should not switch back and forth between synthetic and natural petroleum based engine oil. Here is what the FAQ says: Can I use synthetic oil in my Toyota? Answer: All Toyota vehicles come from the factory with natural petroleum-based engine oil. Toyota is currently recommending API1 grade SJ or SL, or ILSAC2 multigrade petroleum-based engine oil3 for our current model year vehicles. In moderate climates, this oil should have a Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) viscosity rating of 5W-30. In our high mileage tests with preventative maintenance performed at the recommended intervals, the recommended natural petroleum-based oil has provided excellent service. If you decide to use synthetic oil for the engine, it is best not to switch until the first scheduled oil change. Synthetic oil should meet or exceed the specifications provided in your Owner's Manual. Even if synthetic oil is used, we do not recommend a longer oil change interval. Also, once synthetic oil is used, you should keep using it and not switch back and forth with natural petroleum-based oil.
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