Smashed The Back Of The Ls

[killerFatty]

Just talked to the frame guy, and he should be able to get it to where the trunk closes and get a tail light in with the donor bumper on for $1K. With the parts I'm looking at $1250 in it so far. However he is booked unitll next week, so I have the car until then. He might be able to save the trunk flooring and the 1/4. I will have to wait till next week though to get any work done. The trunk floor was pretty mashed up, it really accordianed. I would like to save the car because I don't think I'll get anything more reliable for the money.

[jpourcy]

Talking about bad cars I will give you a bad one. My mom bought a brand new 1992 Ford Explorer. After about 8-10 months she started having problems with the transmission. Warranty took care of it the first time and maybe the second. She had to replace the transmission at her own cost at least once maybe twice.

My brother ended up with the vehicle and I do not know if he had to do transmission work on it. After him, my son ended up with it. He put 2 or 3 transmissions in it. After the last time he gave up on it. I had lent my son some money and I told him to just give me the vehicle and I would cancel his debt. He was more than happy to do so.

So I ended up with the vehicle and I sent it straight to the transmission shop. We had the transmission repaired and about two days later it would not go into reverse. Back to the shop. Got it back and about a week later it went out again.

The transmission shop fought with that thing for about a month. It was a good shop, I had used them before on my Toyota Corolla, no problems.

I finally got it back. I think they ended up changing the whole transmission housing. Then the steering gearbox started leaking and the A/C hose busted.

I called it quits and took a loss and sold it.

Now that was a POS.

The first Generation LS might have power steering problems after 100,000 miles or so but there are many vehicles that have problems from the very beginning such as a 1992 Ford Explorer. The transmission was not heavy duty enough for the vehicle.

I'll take the PS problems on an LS over transmission problems on a Ford Explorer any day.

Jerry

[jpourcy]

Hi KF,

Don't forget to take pictures before he pulls on it.

JP

[Bali26]

With the parts I'm looking at $1250 in it so far.

Pretty good chance it might go up to 1.5 or even 2k. You can get a decent 1st gen for 2k. And if you have a garage and can part this one, you might even make a profit.

[SW03ES]

Buddy...you need to let this car go.

You have to think about your safety too, and getting it "to where the trunk will close" is not thinking about your safety.

[amcdonal86]

Buddy...you need to let this car go.

You have to think about your safety too, and getting it "to where the trunk will close" is not thinking about your safety.

Absolutely. A car with a bent frame is not going to protect you adequately in your next crash, which from the way it sounds will be in about 3-6 months.

You need to get rid of that car. The best case is that for $1250, you get a car that looks like crap, has a leaky trunk, and is completely worthless when it comes time to resell. Worst (and I think more likely) case is you spend $3000+++ to fix it and get the same result.

[killerFatty]

I got the car back on Monday. I have been too busy to takes pics and since its raining today I'll have to take them tomorrow. Anyway the car looks a lot better. Not perfect by anymeans, but much better. I have some dent work to do on the 1/4 panel, but nothing that I cant handle. I plan on doing all the paint and body work my self. The only thing I cant fix is the trunk gap where it meets the 1/4 panel. It is slightly bigger at the back corner of the car. I plan on adding some more weather stripping to seal it up. As far as drivability, the car drive just like it did before. No mechanical damge found. (knock on wood)

[TexFinn]

That sure is quite some damage you got there KF. Interested in seeing some after pics, too.

That's why most 16 year olds get the family hand-me-downs or older cheaper cars to start out with, because at point, odds are, it's going to get damaged during your learning curve behind the wheel. Good thing here is that your folks allowed you to get a big and heavy cruiser that can take a hit. Can you imagine what a hit with this kind of force would have done to a civic or VW Golf? You might have been hurt!

That is exactly the reason why I bought my 94 LS400 a few days ago. My daughter is going to be 16 in April and I don't want her to be driving around in some small tin can with no protection whatsoever. That was my intention from the very beginning. My other choices were MB and Volvo, but I think I made a pretty good decision by choosing the LS.

[OmarG]

That sure is quite some damage you got there KF. Interested in seeing some after pics, too.

That's why most 16 year olds get the family hand-me-downs or older cheaper cars to start out with, because at point, odds are, it's going to get damaged during your learning curve behind the wheel. Good thing here is that your folks allowed you to get a big and heavy cruiser that can take a hit. Can you imagine what a hit with this kind of force would have done to a civic or VW Golf? You might have been hurt!

That is exactly the reason why I bought my 94 LS400 a few days ago. My daughter is going to be 16 in April and I don't want her to be driving around in some small tin can with no protection whatsoever. That was my intention from the very beginning. My other choices were MB and Volvo, but I think I made a pretty good decision by choosing the LS.

you made a great choice with the LS. Another good thing is that the car is never begs to be pushed. Just cruisin in the LS is so satisfying.

MB's and volvo have strange expensive problems. ls400's dont. Fixing an LS is easy and with the internet, the few problems you might run into are easily fixed. Plus we have LS veterans that have been with lexus since day one.

one quick tip. Go to your toyota dealer and get some toyota silicone spray(aftermarket silicone spray can be harsh on plastics trust me). spray all the window seals and you notice a vast improvement in speed. reducing drag on the window motors prolongs their already long lives!

[90LS400Lexus]

Omar- You are talking about the 1990s Mercedes and Volvos right? Wondering, because this has been just the opposite case with me. I have owned three Mercedes (1984 190D, 1985 380SE and a current 1988 300SEL) and never have had any major problems with any of them and have had many more issues and more costly with my LS models, which are newer cars. It could be the age factor... the 80s Mercedes are fairly simple cars... all of this changed in the 1990s when MBs became complex vehicles. My uncle in Anderson, SC has a 1992 300SE (which is the newer W140 chassis), but its been pretty reliable, but he did have to get a head gasket replaced... something unheard of on a LS400... most of the time. :) His dad bought the 92 MB brand new in 1991 in Atlanta and never had any other issues with it.

Anyway, you know the nagging minor issues I have had with my LS400 over the past few months... just something I have never had to deal with on my Mercedes I have owned. In fact, I rarely have to visit the Mercedes forums. ;) (Hope I dont jinx myself! LOL) Thankfully though, I about have all of the issues with my LS worked out. It was basically normal maintainence items that had built up.

MB's and volvo have strange expensive problems. ls400's dont. Fixing an LS is easy and with the internet, the few problems you might run into are easily fixed. Plus we have LS veterans that have been with lexus since day one.

one quick tip. Go to your toyota dealer and get some toyota silicone spray(aftermarket silicone spray can be harsh on plastics trust me). spray all the window seals and you notice a vast improvement in speed. reducing drag on the window motors prolongs their already long lives!

Thanks for sharing that tip about the windows! My windows are OK, but seems like they could be a little faster. I could even use it on my other cars I guess. :)

I am looking forward to seeing the pics of the repaired damage as well!

[TexFinn]

... the 80s Mercedes are fairly simple cars...

Definately! Those were the days... B)

It was basically normal maintainence items that had built up.

It doesn't matter which car it is, those things are bound to happen. There are things that need replacing in Volvo

s and MB's, too. And their own special little quirks. I've had plenty of both, so I know. :D

[amcdonal86]

So how much did you spend? Any photos?

[killerFatty]

Here is the pics. With all my parts, frame work, and some small body work supplies I am up to $1300. I plan on spending another $100 on paint, so that will bring me to $1400. I am pretty excited about doing the body work, and can't wait for a nice day to get crackin on it. As you can see by the primer, I have already started. I also have that other tail light to replace that taped up one that came with the trunk.

[OmarG]

Omar- You are talking about the 1990s Mercedes and Volvos right?

Anyway, you know the nagging minor issues I have had with my LS400 over the past few months... just something I have never had to deal with on my Mercedes I have owned. In fact, I rarely have to visit the Mercedes forums. ;) (Hope I dont jinx myself! LOL) Thankfully though, I about have all of the issues with my LS worked out. It was basically normal maintainence items that had built up.

I am talking about 80s-90s volvo's and Mb's. I'm just relaying info i've gathered from other people. I've had quite a few friends with volvos (athens GA is a blue spec in a sea of red) ranging from 240's(pretty good but crude and electrical probs) to newer s70's with major engine probs. Most of my friends cars are also on engine #2 or second tranny. All the cars have quirks. Even my friends 2003 v70 has electrical problems.

I was looking at a buddy's 1989 740 service record. and it had the engine replaced in 1995 with a new one OUT OF WARRANTY!!

I guess i'm basing my MB experience to a buddy who bought a 1993 420 SEL and has had lots of electrical probs. and basically unserviceable AC. It is a class above the LS400 though. Wowowow that car is HUGE.

90LS400Lexus, the problems on your car can all be fixed and fixed for good. engine mounts, and hoses are replaceable wear and tear items. especially after 17 years. has your car ever failed to start? has it left you stranded anywhere? my guess is no. Your power steering prob was fixed with a new hose!

I am very happy that you have had good experiences with both volvo and MB but i'm confident that your LS can be just as trouble free.

My 93 ls400's service record indicates that the spark plug wires were defective and replaced in 1995. Other than Upper control arms,bushings(2005,190k), first and only AC Flush and refill(2005,200k), fan bracket, and idler pulley(2007,245k) my car has only had routine maintenance done to it. 285k and it runs like a dream. Yes the steering is tired, but now that i replaced all shocks and struts(2009) (i blame chicago's harsh salty conditions ) my car is uncannily smooth. My engine mounts are tired, but i'm not gonna replace em. They aren't tired enough. :)

My starter is sticking occasionally, but its ok, after 16-17 years of service it's done its job.

Correct me if i'm wrong but thats an impressively short list of problems isnt it?

[killerFatty]

talk about thread hijacking! O well

[OmarG]

sorry bud! nice fix on the car! you did a great job. Glad to hear the car is mechanically unfazed.

[jpourcy]

Hi KF,

Yep, I knew the floor and rail was crunched. But considering all things, your man did a decent job of getting the cosmetic stuff on the car pretty straight. The body lines look pretty decent and the 1/4 is definitely repairable now.

If all you have in the repair is $1300.00, you doing pretty good so far.

I noticed the used deck lid emblems had the gold trim package. My 91 has it also but you don't see it that often.

tip:

Where the car was clamped on the pinch welds under the rocker panel, be sure to spray a little undercoating on it to keep it from rusting. Sometimes when you clamp a car down it breaks the paint off the pinch welds.

JP

[killerFatty]

thanks for the tip, I tried to spray primer on every piece of bare metal showing, until I can sand them down and paint them. Is there some kind of coating or something that can return rust to usable metal? Also since I plan on painting my self, should I take the deck lid to bare metal, then prime, base, and clear it or should I just wet sand the surface until it's dull and not shiny and just lay base coat on top of that. Another question, if I take the 1/4 panel to bare metal, is there any kind of primer that I can put on before I put on some bondo, or will bondo only stick to bare metal? I thought I had heard somewhere that bondo will stick to epoxy primers. After I lay on the bondo, I still need to prime it before base coat right? Also is there any tricks to painting the bumper? Should I just scuff it up? Will I have to prime it? I don't want to mess anything up, but on the other hand if I do it wont look too much worse than it dose now. thats why I decided to learn on this car.

[jpourcy]

Hi KF,

There is some type of chemical I have seen that turns rust into some type of black primer looking stuff, but I would not recommend it for cars. I do not even know what it is called or where it can be purchased, I just saw one of my fellow employees use it on some big piece of metal.

Do not sand the deck lid down to bare metal. That is not necessary and you do not want to remove the factory primer unless you have to. Simply wet sand the deck lid with 400 grit and apply base coat on top. If it has any chips be sure to sand those out and prime and sand smooth before you basecoat. If you wish, you can prime the whole deck lid and sand it before you paint it since your car color is a lighter color than your used deck lid.

Do not put plastic filler (bondo) on top of paint. It will not stick very well. Grind the paint off to bare metal with a 24 grit or 36 grit abrasive. This will rough up the metal enough for the filler to stick.

Polyester putty can go on top of paint and they will stick, but be sure to rough up the paint with 80 grit or 180 grit first.

The polyester putty is used to blend the filler into the paint and fill in any pinholes you might have in the filler. I use Evercoat Metal Glaze for my finishing putty. It spreads real smooth and fills in any pinholes very nicely.

After you apply the filler, sand with 36 grit or 40 grit to shape the filler then finish it out with 80 grit. After you get the filler smooth then featheredge the paint edge with 80 or 180 and apply the finishing putty. Sand the finishing putty with 80 grit and finish with 180.

You can prime it like this or use 240 grit first then prime.

Just scuff up the bumper with 400 grit and it should be good to go unless it has paint chips and cracks then you need to sand it first then prime and re-sand before you apply paint.

If I were you, just do the body work and let a professional painter do the paintwork. Paint materials are very expensive and if you mess up you will have to do it over again and it will cost you twice as much. There are many painters that do work on the side. Just go down to you local auto paint supply store and tell them you are looking for a painter that does work on the side and they will fix you up.

A professional painter will paint it in a paint booth and you will get a minimal amount of trash in the paint which can be easily buffed out.

JP

[killerFatty]

thanks a bunch for all the info. I just bought the paint and painting supplies. I have access to a small booth at my school to paint my deck lid and maybe my bumper too, so the only thing that wont be painted in a booth will be the 1/4 panel. With all the paint and supplies supplies I'm only up to $1400. I plan on painting my trunk and maybe bumper this coming week. I just put the old tail light back on the trunk. I was sick of that taped up mess that came with the replacement trunk. I'll post when I do something else.

[killerFatty]

I sanded down the 1/4 panel and layed on some bondo today. I still have a lot of blocking left to do, but it's coming along. I will probably paint the trunk thursday, and hope to get a lot more done on friday because I have it off. For my first time ever doing body work, it came out pretty good.

[eatingupblacktop]

Killer, I was doubtfull when I saw the pics, but i'll give you props for taking on the repairs. You've got jp as an advisor and a lack of funds as incentive. Good on ya! Of course we all want to see the final result when you're finished.

[amcdonal86]

I sanded down the 1/4 panel and layed on some bondo today. I still have a lot of blocking left to do, but it's coming along. I will probably paint the trunk thursday, and hope to get a lot more done on friday because I have it off. For my first time ever doing body work, it came out pretty good.

I hope by "bondo," you mean a body filler that is not Bondo brand. That stuff is TERRIBLE. It doesn't sand well, gets little holes in it, and also shrinks within a few months, leaving your surface uneven.

http://www.azautobodysupply.com/fievkihagasi.html

That stuff is what you want to use.

[killerFatty]

to late for that tip, I already used bondo brand body filler. I sanded it more today and got decent results. There is a few pen-holes left, but i don't feel like putting another coat of bondo on and I cant sand them out all the way. I am not going for a perfect 1/4 panel, I just want a decent paintable surface. I will probably still have to sand it down more even though I already primed it. I also still need to weet sand the trunk before I paint it thursday. Is it safe to drive around after I sand the shine out of the trunk? Also, will bondo stick to its self if I do put another coat on?

[amcdonal86]

I don't think you'll have a problem with Bondo adhering to itself.