92LS99 Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 Hello: I'm crossing over and heading towards VIP :D , I just sold my 91 Legend w/Type II mods, etc. I just bought a 92 Lexus LS400 with 95,000 miles for $2,950. I feel like I got a decent deal except for the car having no stereo and having a bad PS pump. I have several problems that I want to fix and hope you all can help. I am going to replace the pump, I checked all the lines and they seem OK. The pump body itself is leaking and when I take the cap off I can't really see it recirculating the fluid. Not to mention I hear a constant power steering whine... When I brake, I get a clunk and the front of the car pulls HAARRDD to the right and the rear pulls HAARRDD to the left? I feel like I'm ridding on a bowl of jello :( . I read something online about a caster bushing going out but can't find this yet, I am still looking for a repair manual. Any one know a link for a free online one? I eventually want to replace the whole suspension, but I need to pinpoint this problem cuz im on budget What is the best way to stabilize the LS400 without breaking the bank?? Just had the key fob battery replaced, when I lock the doors they cycle three (3) times but still dont lock? Is this because the driver door does not lock at all when I hit the master lock button? Is this some sort of funky master switch thing?? Acura's take special coolant, PS fluid and trans fluid. Any special fluids for lexus'...in the search i saw a mention to Toyota Red, but don't know what this is. What year did the LS400 switch over to R134 refrigerant. My AC blows but it's not that cold... Thank for the help.... PS.... Any rubbing concerns with tanabe drop springs and 20x8 and 20x9.5 staggered wheels?? Thanks...
python Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 the pulling u r getting is from having bad trailing arm bushings....have them looked at
Threadcutter Posted March 1, 2009 Posted March 1, 2009 always love posting replies and getting no response python; You too, huh? It must be all fixed and life is good on the one way street.................
eatingupblacktop Posted March 1, 2009 Posted March 1, 2009 Hello:I'm crossing over and heading towards VIP :D , I just sold my 91 Legend w/Type II mods, etc. I just bought a 92 Lexus LS400 with 95,000 miles for $2,950. I feel like I got a decent deal except for the car having no stereo and having a bad PS pump. I have several problems that I want to fix and hope you all can help. I am going to replace the pump, I checked all the lines and they seem OK. The pump body itself is leaking and when I take the cap off I can't really see it recirculating the fluid. Not to mention I hear a constant power steering whine... When I brake, I get a clunk and the front of the car pulls HAARRDD to the right and the rear pulls HAARRDD to the left? I feel like I'm ridding on a bowl of jello :( . I read something online about a caster bushing going out but can't find this yet, I am still looking for a repair manual. Any one know a link for a free online one? I eventually want to replace the whole suspension, but I need to pinpoint this problem cuz im on budget What is the best way to stabilize the LS400 without breaking the bank?? Just had the key fob battery replaced, when I lock the doors they cycle three (3) times but still dont lock? Is this because the driver door does not lock at all when I hit the master lock button? Is this some sort of funky master switch thing?? Acura's take special coolant, PS fluid and trans fluid. Any special fluids for lexus'...in the search i saw a mention to Toyota Red, but don't know what this is. What year did the LS400 switch over to R134 refrigerant. My AC blows but it's not that cold... Thank for the help.... PS.... Any rubbing concerns with tanabe drop springs and 20x8 and 20x9.5 staggered wheels?? Thanks... Welcome to the club! Your post is like an avalanche. Maybe too much all at once for you to get much response. You've done a good job of listing issues/concerns with your car. For not much more effort, you can find the answers by doing a few searches. Most of them are common enough that you shouldn't have much trouble finding the info you're looking for. Oh yeah, as for forum etiquette, good idea to respond to members who are trying to help you out. But don't want to leave without offering some advice (again very common), I'd tend to your leaking p/s pump before anything else. I'm sure you know why.
92LS99 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Posted March 2, 2009 thanks guys Thanks for the response(s) guys. No intention of having bad forum manners, I just have read too many threads that drag out with 100 questions just to get to the bottom of the issues, that's why I was specific in listing the issues. No offense to PYTHON. I respect you for your mad stats, I am just still looking for more feedback on some of the questions I posted. I ran about 6 searches and they really turned up nothing definitive, that why the post is so deep. Look forward to more dialogue...I've ordered the ps pump, after learning through other posts that bad ones kill alternators.
Threadcutter Posted March 2, 2009 Posted March 2, 2009 thanks guys Thanks for the response(s) guys. No intention of having bad forum manners, I just have read too many threads that drag out with 100 questions just to get to the bottom of the issues, that's why I was specific in listing the issues. No offense to PYTHON. I respect you for your mad stats, I am just still looking for more feedback on some of the questions I posted. I ran about 6 searches and they really turned up nothing definitive, that why the post is so deep. Look forward to more dialogue...I've ordered the ps pump, after learning through other posts that bad ones kill alternators. 92; It's unfortunate because this should have been a sticky along time ago......... The root cause of your problem is the filter that is on the Power Steering Rack Solenoid. It is clogged and needs to be cleaned. When it's clogged, it causes the discharge pressure of the power steering pump to increase to the point where the pump leaks fluid onto alternator and kills it. Don't even bother replacing the pump until you clean the filter on the solenoid. When you replace the P/S pump, hang on to the old one awhile before you return it for the core. Chances are good you will have to scavenge the flow control valve (NOT the Air Control Valve) out of the old pump. When you install the new pump, it could have the wrong valve in it, resulting in stiff steering. Provided you haven't returned the old one for the core, you can take the old FCV out of the old pump and put it into the new pump, which fixes the problem. Myself and probably 40 other people have written about this. This subject comes up every 2 to 3 weeks..............
92LS99 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Posted March 2, 2009 thanks guys Thanks for the response(s) guys. No intention of having bad forum manners, I just have read too many threads that drag out with 100 questions just to get to the bottom of the issues, that's why I was specific in listing the issues. No offense to PYTHON. I respect you for your mad stats, I am just still looking for more feedback on some of the questions I posted. I ran about 6 searches and they really turned up nothing definitive, that why the post is so deep. Look forward to more dialogue...I've ordered the ps pump, after learning through other posts that bad ones kill alternators. 92; It's unfortunate because this should have been a sticky along time ago......... The root cause of your problem is the filter that is on the Power Steering Rack Solenoid. It is clogged and needs to be cleaned. When it's clogged, it causes the discharge pressure of the power steering pump to increase to the point where the pump leaks fluid onto alternator and kills it. Don't even bother replacing the pump until you clean the filter on the solenoid. When you replace the P/S pump, hang on to the old one awhile before you return it for the core. Chances are good you will have to scavenge the flow control valve (NOT the Air Control Valve) out of the old pump. When you install the new pump, it could have the wrong valve in it, resulting in stiff steering. Provided you haven't returned the old one for the core, you can take the old FCV out of the old pump and put it into the new pump, which fixes the problem. Myself and probably 40 other people have written about this. This subject comes up every 2 to 3 weeks.............. Thanks thread. I am assuming that solenoid is the black shock looking part just topside of the rack and pinion assembly??...looks fairly simple to remove it?? based on what you have said, do you think the pump is salvagable once the pressure backs down, or the seals are blown for good??
python Posted March 2, 2009 Posted March 2, 2009 i went through 3 pumps before i finally got a good one, also u should replace the valve by the pump....also get new hoses and have the rack checked, if u have a leakiy rack and u replace the pump and hoses it could cause contamination to get in the system and shorten the life of ur pump...i replaced all 3: pump,rack and hoses its a little expensive but once its done u r done with it for a long time
Threadcutter Posted March 2, 2009 Posted March 2, 2009 92; It's unfortunate because this should have been a sticky along time ago......... The root cause of your problem is the filter that is on the Power Steering Rack Solenoid. It is clogged and needs to be cleaned. When it's clogged, it causes the discharge pressure of the power steering pump to increase to the point where the pump leaks fluid onto alternator and kills it. Don't even bother replacing the pump until you clean the filter on the solenoid. When you replace the P/S pump, hang on to the old one awhile before you return it for the core. Chances are good you will have to scavenge the flow control valve (NOT the Air Control Valve) out of the old pump. When you install the new pump, it could have the wrong valve in it, resulting in stiff steering. Provided you haven't returned the old one for the core, you can take the old FCV out of the old pump and put it into the new pump, which fixes the problem. Myself and probably 40 other people have written about this. This subject comes up every 2 to 3 weeks.............. Thanks thread. I am assuming that solenoid is the black shock looking part just topside of the rack and pinion assembly??...looks fairly simple to remove it?? based on what you have said, do you think the pump is salvagable once the pressure backs down, or the seals are blown for good?? 92; I am assuming that solenoid is the black shock looking part just topside of the rack and pinion assembly??... Yes, easiest to get at by lifting car and removing left front wheel. looks fairly simple to remove it?? Yes, use a punch/chisel on the hex flat, counterclockwise to loosen. DO NOT use a pipewrench or Channelocks on the body, you'll destroy it! based on what you have said, do you think the pump is salvagable once the pressure backs down, or the seals are blown for good?? I would assume it is not, bite the bullet and replace it. Hang on to the old one though, you may need the old Flow Control Valve out of it.
92LS99 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Posted March 2, 2009 i went through 3 pumps before i finally got a good one, also u should replace the valve by the pump....also get new hoses and have the rack checked, if u have a leakiy rack and u replace the pump and hoses it could cause contamination to get in the system and shorten the life of ur pump...i replaced all 3: pump,rack and hoses its a little expensive but once its done u r done with it for a long time Funny you say that Python...I was under the car last night and looking at those hoses and pondering replacement. My question is this, the OEM lines are bent metal tubing and rubber. I was thinking to use banjo fitting adapters and just go all rubber. The OEM hoses, from looking around are just as much as the pump!! You don't find many LS400's in the wrecking yard either. Has anyone converted these lines? Thanks.
python Posted March 2, 2009 Posted March 2, 2009 by using all rubber, the pressure hose will flex as u turn and could cause problems with rubbing as it flexes...
92LS99 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Posted March 3, 2009 by using all rubber, the pressure hose will flex as u turn and could cause problems with rubbing as it flexes... yeah after looking at the lines more in detail, the main pressure being a flexible line could create some issues. I've got a pump on order and I'll let you guys know what happens. On another note...to continue with the rest of my avalance... Does anyone have a link for a free online repair manual? Thanks.
SKperformance Posted March 3, 2009 Posted March 3, 2009 The car pulls because the left strut rod is dead, very common , change both of them
92LS99 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Posted March 3, 2009 The car pulls because the left strut rod is dead, very common , change both of them SK. Front or rear or all four corners?? I need a manual, Im gonna flip out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The cheapest one I found is $$$150, it's factory though..
python Posted March 3, 2009 Posted March 3, 2009 have the car looked at dont just start buying parts! also my car pulled and it wasnt the strut rod bushing it was the trailing arm bushing...so u better have it checked out
amcdonal86 Posted March 3, 2009 Posted March 3, 2009 The car pulls because the left strut rod is dead, very common , change both of them SK. Front or rear or all four corners?? I need a manual, Im gonna flip out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The cheapest one I found is $$$150, it's factory though.. Call Carson Toyota. I got 2 for $220-ish shipped. If you are experiencing a lot of vibration on the car when cruising on the highway, and the steering wheel seems to jump out of your hands when you go over moderate to large bumps, replace your strut rods!
92LS99 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Posted March 3, 2009 I'm not experiencing this. It's a dip and pull. I assume from all the responses that there are no "free" online manuals. I'll break down and buy one. Thanks amc. Now about strut rods. Are we confusing strut rods with "struts (used to absorb bumps, mounted with three bolts visible from the engine bay)" I know that struts are not my problem. So what exactly is a strut rod?
LSPaul Posted March 4, 2009 Posted March 4, 2009 You might check to see if your local public library has access to Chilton, Alldata or similar online resource. I've been using the online flavor of Chilton's for free, courtesy of the public library where I live (it's better than a kick to the head but inferior to the factory shop manuals) since I picked up my LS a couple months back. It's not complete, but it'll get you most of what you need. Even with the deferred maintenance issues you have, it doesn't sound like a bad purchase, especially if the body's clean and the miles are that low. Enjoy! Paul by using all rubber, the pressure hose will flex as u turn and could cause problems with rubbing as it flexes... Does anyone have a link for a free online repair manual? Thanks.
amcdonal86 Posted March 4, 2009 Posted March 4, 2009 There is a database online that has free stuff. Let me see if I can find the link.
amcdonal86 Posted March 4, 2009 Posted March 4, 2009 92LS99, I have found the link. http://search.ebscohost.com/Community.aspx...9E321E336133503 Go there, and then navigate to the appropriate vehicle. There is a bit of information there that should get you started. By the way, "strut rods" in this case are not the same thing as shocks/struts. Here is a slideshow showing exactly what the part is and how to replace it: http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/Fj9WH6CM
92LS99 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Posted March 8, 2009 Thanks for the links. I finally changed the pump, had some issue with leaks and crush washers, bad threads, and I blanked off the pressure valve. Hope that wasn't a mistake. I picked up what was mentioned on lexls.com. Thanks for the help. One thing is that my power steering is ok, but it's a firm wheel. Not super loose and easy to turn is this normal?
python Posted March 8, 2009 Posted March 8, 2009 it should be the same when the car is at idle as when u r going down the road
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