92LS99

I filled up with this fuel twice now, just because of a route I have been taking to work and I feel no difference. What shell says is nitrogen creates a buffer zone that discourages build up and sticking of deposits on engine parts. The same crap as Techcroline probably. For our cars all that matter is pumping 91 and cleaning the fuel system every so often................

Wasn't considering buyoing them, just throwing the product out there for feeddback. I agree with SK's comments, they are probably a boiler plate spring rate and would not match well with the LS400 OEM ride feel. Thanks.

Anybody ever seen a product like this. At first glance it seems like on of those "made just for ebay gimmick products", but then another glance says that the concept in itself is legit. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these. They caught my eye becuase they would be about $600 cheaper than real coilovers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-94-Lexus...sQ5fAccessories untitled.bmp

wider by two inches because it's a gen II right? SK do you have anymore pics of your ride?

my bad, i thought I put first gen in there. I have a 92 LS.

I personally would go with a nice luxury wheel. This is not necessarily VIP becuase that style is fatter spokes, and less spokes, but I like the luxury look. Zone Wheels.

is that what you have on your LS in the photo SK?

I have been playing around and searching for rims. I really like the deep dish lip look and once I get some coilovers, (anyone got any for sale) will definitely have a slightly negative camber because I want big wheels 19"-20", and I want them to tuck into the fender wells or at least be flush. What is the widest rim and tire combo for the rear that anyone on the forum has ran or knows of that will work with either coilovers or tanabes? Please reply with wheel size, offset if known and tire size. Photos would be nice too. Thanks. :D FYI I currently have 255 50 17's in the rear with no rubbing at all (stock slightly worn suspension, no air). Thanks.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/pspumpremoval.html paste this link into your browser, everything is right there. A goog way to tell if the pump is bad is if your car makes the high pitch whine when it's running and there is still fluid in the reservoir. In regards to the bolt like other have said, you must have the pulley off, this is usually the last bolt I take off. If you have bad lines then you are probably loosing fluid, what happens when you checked your fluid levels, were you loosing fluid before this all started?? Or was the steering just difficult. Look for a very shiny, glossy alternator just below the ps pump. This is tell tale sign of a leaking pump, banjo fitting at the pressure line or reservoir bushing...

Thanks for the links. I finally changed the pump, had some issue with leaks and crush washers, bad threads, and I blanked off the pressure valve. Hope that wasn't a mistake. I picked up what was mentioned on lexls.com. Thanks for the help. One thing is that my power steering is ok, but it's a firm wheel. Not super loose and easy to turn is this normal?

I'm not experiencing this. It's a dip and pull. I assume from all the responses that there are no "free" online manuals. I'll break down and buy one. Thanks amc. Now about strut rods. Are we confusing strut rods with "struts (used to absorb bumps, mounted with three bolts visible from the engine bay)" I know that struts are not my problem. So what exactly is a strut rod?

SK. Front or rear or all four corners?? I need a manual, Im gonna flip out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The cheapest one I found is $$$150, it's factory though..

yeah after looking at the lines more in detail, the main pressure being a flexible line could create some issues. I've got a pump on order and I'll let you guys know what happens. On another note...to continue with the rest of my avalance... Does anyone have a link for a free online repair manual? Thanks.

Funny you say that Python...I was under the car last night and looking at those hoses and pondering replacement. My question is this, the OEM lines are bent metal tubing and rubber. I was thinking to use banjo fitting adapters and just go all rubber. The OEM hoses, from looking around are just as much as the pump!! You don't find many LS400's in the wrecking yard either. Has anyone converted these lines? Thanks.

Thanks for the response(s) guys. No intention of having bad forum manners, I just have read too many threads that drag out with 100 questions just to get to the bottom of the issues, that's why I was specific in listing the issues. No offense to PYTHON. I respect you for your mad stats, I am just still looking for more feedback on some of the questions I posted. I ran about 6 searches and they really turned up nothing definitive, that why the post is so deep. Look forward to more dialogue...I've ordered the ps pump, after learning through other posts that bad ones kill alternators. 92; It's unfortunate because this should have been a sticky along time ago......... The root cause of your problem is the filter that is on the Power Steering Rack Solenoid. It is clogged and needs to be cleaned. When it's clogged, it causes the discharge pressure of the power steering pump to increase to the point where the pump leaks fluid onto alternator and kills it. Don't even bother replacing the pump until you clean the filter on the solenoid. When you replace the P/S pump, hang on to the old one awhile before you return it for the core. Chances are good you will have to scavenge the flow control valve (NOT the Air Control Valve) out of the old pump. When you install the new pump, it could have the wrong valve in it, resulting in stiff steering. Provided you haven't returned the old one for the core, you can take the old FCV out of the old pump and put it into the new pump, which fixes the problem. Myself and probably 40 other people have written about this. This subject comes up every 2 to 3 weeks.............. Thanks thread. I am assuming that solenoid is the black shock looking part just topside of the rack and pinion assembly??...looks fairly simple to remove it?? based on what you have said, do you think the pump is salvagable once the pressure backs down, or the seals are blown for good??