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LSPaul last won the day on April 22 2018

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About LSPaul

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    Iowa (IA)

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  1. Check the condition of the driver's side wiring harness in the LH fender, the connections to the harnesses at the distribution/fuse/relay blocks under the hood, and where the harnesses from the engine compartment meet at the fuse/junction block under the dash (driver's side). The harnesses that go into the under-dash distribution block plug then screw in (10mm or phillips head, like most everything on the car). I wonder if that connector's loose. If you're digging that far into things, it would be worth your while to buy the electrical section shop manual (if you can find a used one for
  2. Hopefully you're healing well from your fall. Yikes! In the case of my LS, I had electrical issues when I bought the car--First, no start (I first ran a jumper lead under dash to the ECU main power lead). I was able to start the car... But there was also no power to the HVAC blower, no charging light, radio, etc. In my case, I checked wiring all the way from the under-hood power distribution point, through the wiring and into the car, thinking I had rodent issues to deal with. Instead, it was a bad connection inside the car, at the fuse and breaker panel--the connector that screws in
  3. Nick, Same answer to your situation--replacing the check valve or replacing the valve with appropriate bolt should have the same results. Paul
  4. +1 on doing the 2-day sub for TIS. I did the same thing for my '94 LS and have the downloaded PDFs organized by section, which I keep a copy of on an SD card on my tablet, as well as on my shop computer and a flash drive. Very handy.
  5. Yes, there is a direct connection. What has likely failed is the idle air control valve, which screws into the bottom of the power steering pump and connects to the intake manifold. It helps maintain engine idle when the power steering is turned full lock. Part number is 17630-16040. $80-ish online. When they've failed, I've lost power steering fluid and had it go out the exhaust as nasty-smelling automatic transmission fluid smoke. It can be changed in situ in a early LS (at least that's how I've done it on the two LSes I've owned). Car up on stands, remove plastic pan, disconne
  6. Did somebody jam a screwdriver or some such thing or try to drill it? Yikes. Hopefully you were able to get back into your car! Have you checked with a dealer to see if lock cylinders can still be ordered/keyed to your existing keys (by VIN)? shows the part numbers for LF and RF door lock cylinders as 69051-50090 and 69052-50090, respectively. Good luck! Paul
  7. '94 is definitely not a chipped key. I'm guessing fuel pump or other electrical stuff that makes the fuel pump go whir. Good luck and let us know what it turned out to be! Paul
  8. Hi, Beth-- Welcome to the group! Looked at your CL ad; your car IS a nice looking example. Not having navigation I see as a bonus on an LS, but lack of heated seats may limit its appeal outside of the south/Sunbelt states. Executive summary: What does Macy's do when they want to get shoes sold? Yes, put 'em on sale/mark it down! This also applies to your car. Why hasn't it sold? Harsh truth: It sounds like the market isn't interested in the car at your asking price, and it sounds like you're getting frustrated. I'm not a dealer (I enjoy cars waaaaaayyyy too much to
  9. Ooo. Not fun, and yes, it sounds like there's air trapped there in the throttle body and upper hose connection. I'd start with a pair of locking pliers ("Vise-Grip") on the outside of the filler bolt head and see if you can get it off that way. Once there, fill the cooling system from that opening and that should take care of your air bubble/overheat issues. From what I could look up on Lexus parts sites (the diagrams aren't the easiest to read), so it looks like that filler bolt part number should be 90341-20012, and the washer/gasket below that should be 90430-20017. Hope this hel
  10. Sounds like you have some sort of parasitic drain issue going on ("parasitic drain" should be part of your search phrase online). There's plenty of guides online (both pages and videos) on how to discover and measure current draw in car circuits, even with the key off (across fuses, on main power, etc). At minimum you'll need a multimeter (a digital multimeter/"DMM") and... patience. It could be a number of things--a bad alternator, open switch turning a bulb on (think trunk light or glove box, etc.), an ECU or other component somewhere in the car going south. Also check connections (ma
  11. Yes, it should. You can also save the pages on your computer, as TIS pages are .pdfs. Should you have enough time, you could theoretically download the whole manual, a section at a time. Paul
  12. As far as I can tell from looking at parts diagrams, the knock sensor wiring is part of the main engine harness assembly. I'm using the parts reference pictures at (you will need to register to look at that info). Paul
  13. I've used some poly bushings on my LS, with good success, but not for all the possible locations listed in that kit illustration: Rear trailing arm/carrier bushings (Armstrong) and sway bar links (Daizen, IIRC). For R&Ring the trailing arm bushings, I used a recip saw to cut out the remnants of the original bushings, which were toast on both of the LSes I've owned. For some of the others, I suspect you may need access to a hydraulic press. Installation was easy, as one would expect with three-piece poly bushings. They've worn well for me; I've not replaced them so far (a few years/60k
  14. Welcome! Did you pull the codes from the computer to determine what the fault code is (so you can dig in? Also, go back and check the basics--caps, rotors, plugs, wires. At that kind of mileage, there's certainly a chance that they've never been done. From my experience, the ECU capacitors can look just fine but still be bad. Replacing the capacitors took care of the issues I had (bogging down like you're experiencing and the check engine light code of 47, which is for the secondary throttle position sensor for the traction control system. Good luck! Paul
  15. I went through similar issues last year with my car. My guess is that the ECU is at fault in your case. Replacing the TPS sensor for the TCS brought no joy for me, even when adjusted properly. The throttle position sensor is both a variable resistor and microswitch. The solution in my case was to replace all the electrolytic capacitors in the engine ECU (plenty of writeups, and some good places out there that do 'em). I did mine at home, buying a kit of the correct electrolytics off an eBay seller, carefully unsoldering and replacing one at a time. Once back together and in th
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