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LSPaul last won the day on November 30 2017

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About LSPaul

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  1. Knock Sensor Harness for 1998 LS400

    As far as I can tell from looking at parts diagrams, the knock sensor wiring is part of the main engine harness assembly. I'm using the parts reference pictures at (you will need to register to look at that info). Paul
  2. I've used some poly bushings on my LS, with good success, but not for all the possible locations listed in that kit illustration: Rear trailing arm/carrier bushings (Armstrong) and sway bar links (Daizen, IIRC). For R&Ring the trailing arm bushings, I used a recip saw to cut out the remnants of the original bushings, which were toast on both of the LSes I've owned. For some of the others, I suspect you may need access to a hydraulic press. Installation was easy, as one would expect with three-piece poly bushings. They've worn well for me; I've not replaced them so far (a few years/60k miles). Front upper control arms are enough of a wear item that the whole thing gets replaced when the upper ball joints inevitably wear out, so I don't bother there. At least you have some options for shocks on the later cars; earlier LSes are pretty limited in the numbers of options available for good quality shocks. In my case, the poly swar bar bushings tightened things up, handling-wise. I went with an Addco rear sway bar to take that further. I've stuck with stock springing and KYB shock inserts, due to limited choices and the fact the car still occasionally gets used to carry clients in my business. I like the stock ride characteristics, but do like to be able to hustle around corners. The minor mods made my car more tossable, with fairly neutral steering characteristics in the twisties. HTH. Paul
  3. Cheap vs. expensive tps sensor.

    Welcome! Did you pull the codes from the computer to determine what the fault code is (so you can dig in? Also, go back and check the basics--caps, rotors, plugs, wires. At that kind of mileage, there's certainly a chance that they've never been done. From my experience, the ECU capacitors can look just fine but still be bad. Replacing the capacitors took care of the issues I had (bogging down like you're experiencing and the check engine light code of 47, which is for the secondary throttle position sensor for the traction control system. Good luck! Paul
  4. TRAC Code 47

    I went through similar issues last year with my car. My guess is that the ECU is at fault in your case. Replacing the TPS sensor for the TCS brought no joy for me, even when adjusted properly. The throttle position sensor is both a variable resistor and microswitch. The solution in my case was to replace all the electrolytic capacitors in the engine ECU (plenty of writeups, and some good places out there that do 'em). I did mine at home, buying a kit of the correct electrolytics off an eBay seller, carefully unsoldering and replacing one at a time. Once back together and in the car, the codes cleared and all was good. To test voltages, one has to either carefully pierce the insulation of the wiring to the TPS or else rig up a jumper that one can connect a volt-ohm meter to. Best, Paul
  5. Wow, that stinks. Tracing through the electrical system to find damage, especially from mice is a seriously tough job, even for pro mechanics. It's no surprise that plenty of cars get totalled out by insurance carriers for that reason! I don't have any experience with the second-gen cars, but in the case of the first-gen cars (up to '94), I bought mine in non-running condition, and eventually fixed it. There's multiple wiring looms that run inside the fenders (behind the fender liner) from the engine compartment (and the power distribution points under the hood) to the passenger compartment. Most of those in my case were on the driver's side. I'm not a tech and I had another LS400 at the time I bought my current car, so I was able to dig into things in spare time. I fiddled with things on and off for the better part of a year before getting the car up and running (thankfully not a rodent issue with mine, but with a loose connection under the dash, between the fush/junction block and the dashboard wiring harnesses). 1993 and 1994 cars had issues with backlighting on the instrument clusters, which can be repaired by replacing some capacitors on the circuit board. I have no knowledge of whether this is an issue on '95-on cars. I suppose it's possible that connections weren't put back together properly when the techs dug through the wiring harnesses, trying to find and repair the breaks. Perhaps there's more damage? Fingers crossed that the solution is a fairly simple one. Best, Paul
  6. This. Especially on a first-gen car. I haven't sampled many of the conversion kits other than the Strutmaster kit, which, while had a nice spring rate and ride characteristics, the ride height on their springs approximated that of the air suspension in the high position. I'd probably look for OE springs and strut inserts.
  7. Winter tires/wheels

    For that matter, stock '93-94 LS rims should be relatively cheap since they're somewhat unloved, style-wise. '97-2000 LS rims (the 5-spoke flavor) will look good on the earlier LS. Good snows (I've used Blizzaks and General Altimax Arctic) and TCS on that gen of LS will work pretty well in even western MI snow conditions. If you do drive it in snow and ice, keep it clean when you can and it'll stay surprisingly rust-free.
  8. Transmission problem?

    From my experience with AW transmissions (most recently in a Saab) 12-13 ohms for solenoids will be in the ballpark. I don't have the manual download for '96, so I can't help further. Sorry. Paul
  9. Aftermarket is the only way to go here for the rear carrier bushings. The ADUS poly bushings have held up well in the LS400s I've had. Getting the old ones out goes quickly with a recip saw (just don't cut into the arm!), and putting the poly bushings is a pretty quick/easy job. Rear strut options are pretty limited for the LS. I installed new KYBs with fresh OE Lexus springs a couple years back. Even so, I feel the earlier cars are way under-damped in a stock-ish situation... not sure how the second gen cars do. In the case of your car, I'd look for Bilstein HDs, as they do make them for the second-gen cars. I'm not sure coil-overs would be the way to go, especially if you're wanting to maintain a stock-ish feel. Paul
  10. 1993 LS 400 Trailer hitch Possible ?

    That's something I'd love to find for my LS. The extra reinforcements attached to the body would instill much more confidence.
  11. New to Lexus, got a 1 owner 1990 LS400

    Ignition caps and rotors (and wires) are a bit of a pain to do after the TB job, but not impossible. The biggest hassle is getting to the bolts that hold the plastics on at the front side of the engine. For the wheel locks, look in the tool kit inside the trunk. It has its own spot for it with the tool kit. If you have the owners manual set, look through for wheel lock info. McGard in NY State still makes replacement wheel lock keys if you have the key code, and you can order one from them. Maybe consider a second one to keep with your tools at home and as a back up--they're inexpensive. Otherwise, the one time I had to get the wheel lock off without they key, I hammered a large socket (7/8"?) over the whole tapered lug nut, then was able to remove with a 1/2" breaker bar. Stock headlights on the early cars are pretty horrid. A lot of it has to do with the stock bulb 9004 fitment ('93-94 cars went to an 9003/H4). The rest of it has to do with the optics of the headlight, itself. I switched to a set of clear-style headlights made by Eagle Eyes (bought them a few years back online); H4 lamp (you'll need to convert or adapt your connector), good optics, giving off a decent impression of a proper E-code beam pattern. '93-'94 cars have slightly better stock headlights, and might be worth trying out if you can get them cheaply enough in the junkyard. For the rest of your electrical maladies, if there's an electrical section in your shop manuals, start there.
  12. 1993 LS 400 Trailer hitch Possible ?

    Like I said, for light duty hauling, a class I is just fine, even if you think it looks like it wouldn't hold. It will. As for the washer tank, I haven't seen anything on here, but the procedure from the shop manual (you can also download individual pages from Toyota/Lexus' TIS site) is pretty straight forward: 1) remove the LF fender liner (10mm socket or Phillips screwdriver) in addition to removing the LF tire 2) Disconnect the hoses and wiring to the pump 3) Remove the screws that hold the tank/pump assembly in (there's three) then remove the tank and pump. Installation is the reverse... Wiper_And_Washer.pdf
  13. New to Lexus, got a 1 owner 1990 LS400

    Congrats on the purchase! My sole project MBZ experience (W202, what did I expect?) was educational at best. By the time this is done, your temporary car may become one you want to keep around for a long time. Dig around the archives here for answers to many of your car's issues, as well as some of the other Lexus forums. There's close to a couple decades' worth of wisdom and knowledge here. Thankfully used parts in junkyards are still pretty inexpensive, and depending on where you live, still fairly plentiful. Many of the other answers will be found in the repair manuals (that's a massive score, by the way!). 1) Radio: If you have the standard radio (Pioneer, not Nakamichi), wiring harness adapters for aftermarket radios are cheap and install's pretty straightforward. Pioneer speakers are pretty indestructo, but the Nakamichi speakers sound great, even now. If the speaker foam has disintegrated on the Nak speakers, consider re-foaming--they're worth saving. Naks have the amp separate from the radio head, so basically are a line-out set. I'm not aware of a wiring adapter for that. 2) Washer pump might be the pump, itself. 2A) Start with the switch when it comes to the mirrors. 3) Brakes sound like they need re-bleeding. Follow the procedure in the shop manual to the letter (an assistant is helpful, but otherwise use a stick or long piece of wood to hold the brake pedal all the way down when closing the bleeder screws on the calipers). 3a) '93 and '94 cars have bigger brakes and different calipers, and should be a straightforward swap. 4) 16" wheels are plug and play. If you DO go with later brakes, the stock 15" wheels won't fit, so you'll need those 16" rims. 5) Driver's seat sounds more like an adjustment issue, as they generally don't wear out. 5A) If you do go junkyard shopping for seats, you are limited to '90-92 seats; '93 and '94 seat wiring is completely different and won't work, even if the seats bolt right in. 6) The timing belt/water pump job is a big project, although if the belt that's in there has less than 100k miles on it (and OE belts will go *much* longer than 100k), it'll be fine for now. It's a non-interference engine, anyway... 6A) A coolant change would be a good idea, though. 6B) As for timing belt vendors, Aisin's good, Continental (nee Goodyear) timing belts or Gates belts are just fine, too. 6C) There are also coolant drain petcocks on both sides of the engine block, if doing that change. I'd go with the proper pink coolant here, not green or other colors. 7) The steering column may be a matter of the gears needing attention (adding a shim, re-greasing). 8) Parts-wise, shop around. Many Lexus dealers also sell OEM bits on that auction site. 9) While a stock LS is a bit wallowy around curves, it will stick longer and better than you'd expect, as the suspension design is actually quite good. If you're going *there*, stiffer shocks, poly bushings on the sway bars and a larger rear sway bar (Addco makes a solid 7/8-1" rear sway bar for the LS) will tighten things up and flatten things out. After all that, you'll still slide around in the driver's seat! ;-) I'll repeat the mantra: Search the forums. ;-) Have fun! Paul
  14. 1993 LS 400 Trailer hitch Possible ?

    Second on the lexls writeup. The hitches that are out there for '90-94 cars are pretty light duty, as they bolt to the rear bumper beam only and not directly to the body. I believe hitches for '95-on are generally class II, so one can safely pull bigger stuff. If you're wanting to use a hitch-mount bike rack or a light duty trailer, the class I setup will work well (that's what's on my car). For stuff like a heavy cargo trailer, light car trailer or a car tow dolly, I'd probably pass (although I *have* pulled a light car trailer with small car, and car dolly with a mid-sizer over substantial distances with my '94). With adequate planning and reasonably careful driving, the stock brakes are just fine for a tow. The transmission was happier pulling with overdrive off when fully loaded. Wiring harness can be tapped inside the trunk, left-hand side, no problem.