PBL Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Hello, I am new to this board and fairly new to working on my 1995 SC400. I have just purchased the shop manual covering mainly the engine (book 1 of 3), unfortunately I did not know the brakes were not covered in this manual, other than that an excellent detailed manual. I would like to bleed /change the brake fluid in my car but would like some help from members that have done this before. I can probably buy an adapter to use my pressure tank bleeder if it is recommended or I have a mighty vac system if that would be usefully or certainly can do it with a helper. Please let me know how to proceed. I look forward to reading your replies. Thank you, Peter :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWJ Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Welcome friend! Very easy job. I take it you've done this before. I use the helper method. Once you have the wheel off, it is very clear. The back side of the caliper has the bleeder on it. Take the fluid reservoir cap off - open bleeder - down on brake - close bleeder- up on brake... repeat. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadistic Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 This is ususally how it is, but I always start with the shortest brake line and pump the brakes first, then open the bleeder, down the pedal, close bleeder. When I bought my SC there were a ton of air in the lines, and I couldn't get all of it out until I pumped the brakes first. Just thought I would mention that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWJ Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 This is of course key - to build up adequate pressure - but with the cap off - you could send it out the top. So be careful for that. Also - do not let the fluid get to low in the rez - that will just suck a bunch more air in. And never pump the brakes with the caliper off the rotor (duh) like I did. Pop the piston strait out of there - d'oh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBL Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 Thank you for the replies, I guess it can't get any easier than that. I just thought there could be something unquie with the ABS system and I didn't want to screw the brake system up. Thanks again for the help I was looking for. PBL :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRFiero Posted December 10, 2003 Share Posted December 10, 2003 but I always start with the shortest brake line No, no, start with the longest line. I don't have my SC manual in front of me, but that's what all my other manuals have said. Somebody look it up. Can't remember the logic. The longest line on US cars used to be the right rear, but now with ABS pumps located in various areas of the engine bay, who knows. The manual knows. And, if you're going to change fluid, suck all the old stuff out of the MC with a turkey baster, and don't spill any on anything! Wipe and wash immediately if you do, brake fluid will eat paint. I wouldn't bleed brakes with the cap off, its bound to squirt up. Cracked, maybe, to vent easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBL Posted December 10, 2003 Author Share Posted December 10, 2003 Thanks JR, that makes a lot of sense to suck out the old fluid first and than proceed to the longest line to ensure the old fluid is out of the system before getting to the front of the vehicle. I’m not sure about pumping, I read once in a Bentley manual for a BMW to pump several times to relief pressure on the ABS system prior to opening any of the bleeder screws, not sure how this will increase pressure or not. thanks, PBL :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWJ Posted December 10, 2003 Share Posted December 10, 2003 Now that I think about it - I did leave the ignition in the on position so that the abs pump did have power while bleeding. I don't know if it is necessary, but I did it out of precaution. Also, while I understand leaving the cap on - taking it off allows the level in the rez to fluctuate in the event that air might try to go out that way. Especially if you are going to suck the top side empty. I know you guys mention just cracking it loose, but any pressure will pop it right off along with any fluid that wants out. I ran so much fluid through the car during the caliper swap that all the original fluid was drained out through the lower lines anyways. I replaced with dot 4 as the rez level dropped priodically - never letting the level go lower than the bottom of the rez - and stainless steel lines. Just food for thought. There is always more than one way to skin a cat and if a problem is noticed after one method, you can always go back and hit it again. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadistic Posted December 10, 2003 Share Posted December 10, 2003 You're right JR, sorry about that. It is always the longest line first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBL Posted December 11, 2003 Author Share Posted December 11, 2003 Great info, thanks guys. PBL :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99lsguy Posted December 12, 2003 Share Posted December 12, 2003 Confirming you should start with longest line first... Right Rear Left Rear Right Front Left Front Let us know how it goes... RW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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