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Posted

I have a 93 es300 and it wont seem to start. It is getting spark and fuel.It turns over like it should.

Some one told me to check the VSV and I did. It does not check to the correct ohms.

Plus some of the vacuum lines were broke off of it. Could that be the problem? Please help

cant seem to figure this thing out. Thanks

Posted

that has been done any more ideas would be appricated. thanks

Have you replaced the plugs, Wires, Rotor cap etc... Have you cleaned your engine bay lately ?

Posted

It just keeps turning over but never really trys to start. Checked timing belt and it looks good not broke or loose. I pulled a spark plug wire to see if it was getting spark and it was. loosened fuel line and fuel squirted out. Thanks

Posted

It just keeps turning over but never really trys to start. Checked timing belt and it looks good not broke or loose. I pulled a spark plug wire to see if it was getting spark and it was. loosened fuel line and fuel squirted out. Thanks

I think your plug wires are old and full of minute cracks and shorting out. Change them and put in new OEM plugs, Get a new rotor cap and report back ................................. ;)

Or you could always plug your car into this forum and we'll do an "AUTOFIX" :lol::lol::lol:

Posted

If it were a spark wiring issue it would attemp to spark getting fuel to the rail is good but that does not mean the injectors are being fired or that the ignition is timed right.

Posted

How do you know that it is getting spark and fuel? What methods did you use to confirm it?

Posted (edited)

LOOK UNDER THE CAP(s)

I have seen the rotor button(s) EAT AWAY the distributor cap from the inside. It'll still give you the impression that you're getting spark (which is TRUE), but...

The Spark will be jumping all over the place; resulting in a NO START.

'92 LS 400 DISTRIBUTOR EATEN UP INTERNALLY

Edited by kennydoesit
Posted

I loosened the bolt to the fuel rail and fuel squirted out. How do I check to see if fuel is going to the injectors? I also but a nail in one of the plug wires and a spark came out. So I assumed it was getting spark. I also checked the rotor and cap and all was nice and clean no corrosion. I also sprayed start fluid in the intake, when i did this it tried to fire up. It back fired. If that is not correct please tell me anthor way. Thanks

Posted

How did the car run prior to it not starting?

Try removing the exhaust manifold and see if it starts or not.

Posted

the car was running fine but it has sat 4 about a year. A new raditor was put in and then it would not start. So it has just been sitting until now. I just started to work on it.


Posted

post-21304-1173440603_thumb.jpg

How did the car run prior to it not starting?

Try removing the exhaust manifold and see if it starts or not.

YOU CAN ALSO CHECK YOUR TIMING MARKS ON THE CAM(S) AND THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY (BY MANUALLY TURNING THE CRANK PULLEY). IF THE MARKS DON'T LINE UP... TIMING.

ALSO, FIND A COMPRESSION GAUGE AND TEST ALL THE CYLINDERS.

THE COMP TEST WILL TELL YOU ALOT ABOUT THE CONDITION OF THE UPPERMOST PART OF THE ENGINE (E.G. THE VALVES, PISTONS).

HAVING A REMOTE STARTER SWITCH ($20) HELPS ALOT TOO!

Posted

So it was running fine up until you replaced the radiator and then it wouldn't start immediately after you replaced the radiator? Did the vehicle overheat?

Posted

I just pulled a spark plug and it seems to be getting fuel on it. The compression seems to be fine. It is getting spark to the plug, but it doesnt look like a real strong spark.

Posted

I just pulled a spark plug and it seems to be getting fuel on it. The compression seems to be fine. It is getting spark to the plug, but it doesnt look like a real strong spark.

Replace the rotor cap..............

Posted

the rotor cap looks like new. Just found out that the car has sat for about 2 years. Could the injectors be clog or not spraying a good pattern

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