Ray92es Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 My front rotors are original and been on there 15 years and 200k mi. . They are starting to delaminate and I need to replace. They are the most stuck on things ever. I wd-40 and pb blaster them front and backside. I tried bolts through the front of the rotors. I tried heat, but not a big enough torch. I tried Harbor Freight 12" gear pullers and broke 6. I tried a hammer, a bigger hammer, a sledge hammer, a 10 lb sledge hammer. No budge. I need to replace these things soon and it is getting cold out there. My next thought was an air cutter but I'm afraid it won't be able to cut enough off and I will be out my car. HELP
Toysrme Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 Bolts through the rotors always worked for me.
mburnickas Posted December 2, 2006 Posted December 2, 2006 Heat no work? What kind of heat? Acetylene torch always worked in my past, but next time I might try Toysrme way. Anyother then Acetylene, will not work.
steviej Posted December 2, 2006 Posted December 2, 2006 Bolts through the rotors always worked for me. as for me too. just keep ratcheting down little by little, one side to the other evenly. steviej Heat no work? What kind of heat? Acetylene torch always worked in my past, but next time I might try Toysrme way. Anyother then Acetylene, will not work. careful with too much heat, don't cook your hubs and wheel bearings. sj
Tsquared Posted December 2, 2006 Posted December 2, 2006 Go get new wheel bearings. Get you sledge hammer. Hit it hard enough to shatter the rotor. Replace the bearings and any other damaged items. BTW: if you have already beat on the rotors you need to replace the bearings anyway.
Ray92es Posted December 3, 2006 Author Posted December 3, 2006 Go get new wheel bearings. Get you sledge hammer. Hit it hard enough to shatter the rotor. Replace the bearings and any other damaged items. BTW: if you have already beat on the rotors you need to replace the bearings anyway. Thanks all for the ideas. Keep them coming because I've tried it all. The screw holes are all stripped out on both rotors. Bearing at the moment are s till good. I don't think A 10 lb. sledge would shatter the rotors since there isn't enough clearence to give a hard enough swing. I tried an air chisel on the rotors by the hub and all I get is a bunch of dents. Maybe if I wait until it's 20 below.
Toysrme Posted December 3, 2006 Posted December 3, 2006 Then drill & tap them to accept a manly sized bolt. :D http://www.lsuagcenter.com/en/lawn_garden/...ning+Torque.htm
Tsquared Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 I don't think A 10 lb. sledge would shatter the rotors since there isn't enough clearence to give a hard enough swing. I tried an air chisel on the rotors by the hub and all I get is a bunch of dents. Maybe if I wait until it's 20 below. Go with a 3 lb short sledge hammer. You can get a full swing and you want to hit it squarely in the pad area. I had to do this to my F150 this summer. Also, get a CO2 fire estinguisher and cool them off so you don't have to wait till it 20 below outside. I still recomend changing out the bearings. You are half way there and a light tap with a hammer on a rotor is enough to damage them.
SKperformance Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 I would never use a sledge or any type of hammer. Just using the bolt holes with a proper sized bolt should work fine. if stripped then re tap then and you should be fine.
Ray92es Posted December 5, 2006 Author Posted December 5, 2006 I would never use a sledge or any type of hammer. Just using the bolt holes with a proper sized bolt should work fine. if stripped then re tap then and you should be fine. I thought of retapping but a tap needs to go past the end of the rotor to work due to the taper and there is the hub behind it. I don't think I can take off the hub assy with the rotor attached.
dcfish Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 I would never use a sledge or any type of hammer. Just using the bolt holes with a proper sized bolt should work fine. if stripped then re tap then and you should be fine. I thought of retapping but a tap needs to go past the end of the rotor to work due to the taper and there is the hub behind it. I don't think I can take off the hub assy with the rotor attached. You should be able to start the tap, Then get or mfg. a flat nosed tap to continue through the rotor. American ingenuity won wars.....................
tckcumming Posted December 6, 2006 Posted December 6, 2006 My front rotors are original and been on there 15 years and 200k mi. . They are starting to delaminate and I need to replace. They are the most stuck on things ever. I wd-40 and pb blaster them front and backside. I tried bolts through the front of the rotors. I tried heat, but not a big enough torch. I tried Harbor Freight 12" gear pullers and broke 6. I tried a hammer, a bigger hammer, a sledge hammer, a 10 lb sledge hammer. No budge. I need to replace these things soon and it is getting cold out there. My next thought was an air cutter but I'm afraid it won't be able to cut enough off and I will be out my car. HELP Here's something that has worked for me in the past... Get a bucket full of cold water, put a shop rag in it to soak. Heat the rotor "hat" near the hub - as hot as you can get it. Glowing red would be good. A couple of propane torches used at the same time can put out a surprising amount of heat. Pick the wet rag out of the bucket - throw it on the rotor where you were heating. You might need to do this cycle a few times. Heat - wet rag - heat - wet rag and so on, until you hear a distinct "crack" or "thunk" sound. That's the old rotor separating (finally) from the hub. Tap it off with a hammer. You should be prepared to replace your wheel bearings & seals if you use this method, the heat can cook the grease and damage the seals. But, at 200K+ miles, that's probably not a bad thing anyway. Give it a try. tck...
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