Kamana

I wanted to add that changing those parts fixed the slow starting problem. Car is in good shape again.

landar, I spoke about your comment to the mechanic and I'll try to explain to the best of my understanding. He says once these parts are fried then the power to energize the fuel pump comes from ignition while in crankcase. In normal situation, the order of operation when the ignition is placed in the On position is, from Circuit Opening Relay (commanded by ECU) to the Fuel Pump Resistor and eventually the Fuel Pump Relay energizes the Fuel Pump. Therefore, by the time the ignition reaches crankcase the fuel pump is energized and ready to send fuel. If only power is coming to fuel pump while in crankcase then it takes a while to energize the fuel pump hence taking too long to start. eatingupblacktop, my mechanic checked the wirings earlier and everything was correct. I also though that the problem had to do with the new Starter exchange. Grade of oil is 5W-30 synthetic. I can seek more answers if need be.

Hi folks, I send the test procedure (from Lexus repair manual) to the mechanic for the following three items as he suspected them to be the cause of the problem: 1) Fuel Pump Relay 28380-30010 2) Fuel Pump Resistor 23285-50010 3) Circuit Opening Relay (next to ECU) 85910-22040 (Part numbers are for 90 Ls400) After testing them with OHM meter, all three parts were fried. Called Park Lexus and prices are $60, $98 and $133 respectively. Mechanic suggested to find the parts at a junk yard and he can test them to make sure they are working to save a few bucks. Let you know if they solve the problem but most likely they will come through.

This car has around 150,000 miles. Plugs were changed around 15,000 miles ago. Alternator is brand new and battery is fairly new. It starts up slowly when the engine is cold. You can tell that is taking a long time to start.

Hi folks, I have run into an issue in which my car (90 LS) would take around 5 seconds to start when the engine is cold like in the mornings. When the engine is warm, the car starts quick. Also it starts quick if I turn the ignition key twice to start like let it crank once then turn the ignition off, then crank it again. My mechanic checked the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it was fine. After talking to an electric guy, he suggested the problem is with the Fuel Pump Relay and Circuit Opening Relay both will cost around $100 each from the dealer. Could someone give me an advice? This problem started showing up after the starter was replaced. I don't know if this could have anything to do with the problem.

I switched from 91 (premium) to 87 (regular) and immediately noticed the performance decrease and pinging of the engine. I can live with the performance issue but the pinging is not good. Maybe if I used regular often knocking would have stopped. I then switched to 89 octane, no more pinging and performance is the same as with the higher premium gas. Been using the 89 grade for the past 4 months. Load on the car is always light, no heavy weights in this family. Why pay extra money for fuel if you don't need to.

I am in the prcess of replacing and just wanted to add a couple of pictures.

I have been using synthetic (Mobil 5w-30) on my LS for the past 30K miles and never been happier. I use the Toyota filter. The car runs smoother than using conventional oil. I change it every 5000 miles but thinking of reducing that to 4000. I have about 144K on the car now. As a matter of fact I use Synthetic on all my cars now. Purchased at Walmart for $20 for a 5 quart or Priceclub for $25 for 6 individual quarts. Ok one other reason I do this, is because hated changing the oil every 3000.

I purchased my RX from a one owner co-worker. I haven't done too much to the car in the past year except the normal maintenance. I am about to buy four new tires which will be the biggest expense so far. If you find a used RX that is dealer maintained, then in my opinion it is as good as certified without the price tag. But you got to jump on the deal as good ones go quick.

I think that is not a bad price but you need to add tax to that price. I like the RX 300 quality better than the 330. That is just matter of opinion. The engine is better and bigger in RX330; and also like the look of the last year RX300. Being certified you should have warantee for Three years. Color is important. I personally like Pearl White but I do not prefer the Dark color choices. Don't care for the AWD due to transmission complains. Overall RX is a very reliable car. I think it is a lady's SUV but I drive it sometimes too. Good luck.

Anyone found a solution? I am in the same boat.

Folks, I am having a difficult time taking out the front rotors on the 99 RX300 RWD. I tried two bolts on the two open treads and they just won't come off. The bolts don't turn anymore but the rotor doesn't show any signs of seperation. The Lexus manual says to take off the Hub Nuts but everyone including the Lexus dealer tell me that I don't need to take off the Hub Nuts. Not sure what to do at this point. I tried hammering the back of the rotor but no help either. I also applied wd40 to the front. Any help is appreciated. I am dying, please help.

I found the sludge problem when changing the oil and I saw the black tar when I took the oil cap off. It was not a pretty site and very dispapinted to see a Lexus car has built this issue. I could literally scrape the stuff. This car was previously maintained at the dealer with 5K services. I went to the Toyota dealer to get the oil and they recommended the BG product called MOA-110 (http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html). The service man says he adds the stuff to his Corolla engine on every oil change. He also said to change the oil every 3000 miles. This fact that Toyota recommends changing the oil every 5 of 7.5K is probably the problem. I am going back to changing the oil every 3000 miles until the sludge disappears. I want to use Synthetic but I'll use Toyota motor oil and keep the purchse records in case it is needed.

No but I'll try to do a better job next time. Just to let you know that old oil pan was leaking from the Oil Plug side so I thought maybe the plug was put on too loose but the plug was clean of any oil. As I looked further I could see wetness showing on the surface of the gasket. The other thing to mention that the process was very similar to removing the transmisssion pan except the oil pan was much harder to take off. I assume it is because of the gasket that is different than the trnasmission gasket. Please let me know if I can answer any questions cause I feel bad not taking any pictures.

Hey thanks.