Engine Flush, Which Way Is The Best Way?

[djspawn00]

I recently acquired an 02' gs300 with 41k on it, 8k miles later the engine sounds like my mazda 626 with 150k on it. A friend of mine said it was the lifters making all of that noise and suggested an engine flush due the the sludge that may be forming in the engine. Previous owner was a leasee and did not take care of the car. He recommended that instead of using the Gunk brand Motor Flush that I instead use a mixture of ATF fluid and cheap 10w-30, followed by an oil/filter change using full synthetic 5w-30 a couple of days later. Has anyone heard of using ATF to clean out an engine? He does own a lucrative shop that deals with only high end german, italian, and a few japanese cars but this just seemed a little far fetched. Any feedback would be really appreciated.

[mburnickas]

I recently acquired an 02' gs300 with 41k on it, 8k miles later the engine sounds like my mazda 626 with 150k on it. A friend of mine said it was the lifters making all of that noise and suggested an engine flush due the the sludge that may be forming in the engine. Previous owner was a leasee and did not take care of the car. He recommended that instead of using the Gunk brand Motor Flush that I instead use a mixture of ATF fluid and cheap 10w-30, followed by an oil/filter change using full synthetic 5w-30 a couple of days later. Has anyone heard of using ATF to clean out an engine? He does own a lucrative shop that deals with only high end german, italian, and a few japanese cars but this just seemed a little far fetched. Any feedback would be really appreciated.

You can use that, MMO, kerosene, Lc20 etc. My best advice would be to use eitehr LC20 since I have done that. Keep using it in the oil (as directed) and it will get rid of sludge and keep it away.

[djspawn00]

I recently acquired an 02' gs300 with 41k on it, 8k miles later the engine sounds like my mazda 626 with 150k on it. A friend of mine said it was the lifters making all of that noise and suggested an engine flush due the the sludge that may be forming in the engine. Previous owner was a leasee and did not take care of the car. He recommended that instead of using the Gunk brand Motor Flush that I instead use a mixture of ATF fluid and cheap 10w-30, followed by an oil/filter change using full synthetic 5w-30 a couple of days later. Has anyone heard of using ATF to clean out an engine? He does own a lucrative shop that deals with only high end german, italian, and a few japanese cars but this just seemed a little far fetched. Any feedback would be really appreciated.

You can use that, MMO, kerosene, Lc20 etc. My best advice would be to use eitehr LC20 since I have done that. Keep using it in the oil (as directed) and it will get rid of sludge and keep it away.

MMO? LC20?

[SRK]

You're both kidding right? Advising the use of Marvel Mystery Oil, or kerosene or ATF to "flush" an engine? As if a modern GF-4 API SM 5W-30 isn't good enough? Yep, you'll flush the engine alright with ideas like that. Right down the toilet.

Use a quality 5W-30, and a factory filter, and change the oil a little more often than usual, say at 1500 miles or something, and be done with it.

Otherwise I will have to advise you to buy an old Roadrunner and join a Plymouth discussion board. Or a Slant 6 forum.

[mburnickas]

You're both kidding right? Advising the use of Marvel Mystery Oil, or kerosene or ATF to "flush" an engine? As if a modern GF-4 API SM 5W-30 isn't good enough? Yep, you'll flush the engine alright with ideas like that. Right down the toilet.

Use a quality 5W-30, and a factory filter, and change the oil a little more often than usual, say at 1500 miles or something, and be done with it.

Otherwise I will have to advise you to buy an old Roadrunner and join a Plymouth discussion board. Or a Slant 6 forum.

Nope, not kidding. Do a search here (this forum or BISTOG) Most engine flushes ARE kerosene. A modern SM rated oil, even a group 5 synthetic will not clean..sorry.

I used Lc20 on my lexus, wifes car and my Kubota tractor…I did this based on advice from my oil testing house.

I have pictures too.

djspawn00'

I like Lc20 for a flush (16oz) AND then dding 2 oz every 1,000 miles to engine oil.

It WILL remove carbon, sludge, clean rings, keep acids in oil down (near zero), reduce wear (bigtime) etc.

[SRK]

No need to apologize.

If you intend to run kerosene through your Lexus engine, my only question is, "can I watch?". Because I don't think pictures will do it justice.

[mburnickas]

No need to apologize.

If you intend to run kerosene through your Lexus engine, my only question is, "can I watch?". Because I don't think pictures will do it justice.

It does not hurt anything. You are doing this for a few minutes to flush it out. Again, do a search on here or on BITOG. Hundreds of people doing this.

Example, what do you think Amsoil engine flush is? Is it mostly kerosene.

Here is one from here.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...=kerosene+flush

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...true#Post731598

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...true#Post305883

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...true#Post297910

Here is a car using 55K miles with Amsoil (63K total on car). All UOA came back good but Amsoil or any oil does not clean. That is not its job. Redline is the best for Ester (17%) and it would take forever to clean out anything (if it did).

If this was the case, the below picture AFTER a flush would not look like that.

[SRK]

I found you a car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-Dodge-...1QQcmdZViewItem

I don't think of Amsoil if I can avoid it. Too many zealots.

[GuyTelefunken]

You're both kidding right? Advising the use of Marvel Mystery Oil, or kerosene or ATF to "flush" an engine? As if a modern GF-4 API SM 5W-30 isn't good enough? Yep, you'll flush the engine alright with ideas like that. Right down the toilet.

Use a quality 5W-30, and a factory filter, and change the oil a little more often than usual, say at 1500 miles or something, and be done with it.

I'm with you on this. I can almost hear the crankshaft bearings rapping.

Keep in mind that sometimes an engine will sustain almost any kind of abuse. Sometimes, you end up at the junk yard looking for an engine.

[mburnickas]

You're both kidding right? Advising the use of Marvel Mystery Oil, or kerosene or ATF to "flush" an engine? As if a modern GF-4 API SM 5W-30 isn't good enough? Yep, you'll flush the engine alright with ideas like that. Right down the toilet.

Use a quality 5W-30, and a factory filter, and change the oil a little more often than usual, say at 1500 miles or something, and be done with it.

I'm with you on this. I can almost hear the crankshaft bearings rapping.

Keep in mind that sometimes an engine will sustain almost any kind of abuse. Sometimes, you end up at the junk yard looking for an engine.

It is funny that i assume you both have not tried it nor have pulled a UOA after either. I guess all the people that have done it all all wrong and have bad engines...LOL Gee and some user diesel fuel too.

As I stated an SM oil will do zero, nothing etc to clean and engine.

[mehullica]

The 2JZ motor is onr of the best Toyota/Lexus engines ever made. Using a flush to "clean" the insides will almost result in oil leaks soon after. Just use good oil and change if frequently.

[mburnickas]

The 2JZ motor is onr of the best Toyota/Lexus engines ever made. Using a flush to "clean" the insides will almost result in oil leaks soon after. Just use good oil and change if frequently.

How does a rinse cause leaks? If it does, you have seal issues WAY before a flush. The sludge was covering the leak. The flush cleaned the crap out and exposed the leak (that was always there).

So doing a flush does not cause leaks.

So has anyone here done a flush or even a few UOA to see what a flush does??? I doubt it very much.

[chuckb]

I would not dump any of that crap in my motor. did the oil look clean when you bought it? an 02 gs3 w/41k miles should not be ticking. if it is, that maybe covered under the 6 year/70k mile drive train warranty.

[djspawn00]

I would not dump any of that crap in my motor. did the oil look clean when you bought it? an 02 gs3 w/41k miles should not be ticking. if it is, that maybe covered under the 6 year/70k mile drive train warranty.

I agree that it shouldn't be ticking, but I'd have a better chance of winning the lottery than having any dealer find/fix/ let alone admit to a problem based on ticking. The oil did look clean when i purchased the car, probably because the seller just changed it. I'm not even sure if the loud idle has anything to do with sticky lifters, that assumption was just based on someone's two cents. I appreciate all the feedback though, thanks! I guess I'll give the Ralley Dealership in NY a shot.

[mburnickas]

I would not dump any of that crap in my motor. did the oil look clean when you bought it? an 02 gs3 w/41k miles should not be ticking. if it is, that maybe covered under the 6 year/70k mile drive train warranty.

I agree that it shouldn't be ticking, but I'd have a better chance of winning the lottery than having any dealer find/fix/ let alone admit to a problem based on ticking. The oil did look clean when i purchased the car, probably because the seller just changed it. I'm not even sure if the loud idle has anything to do with sticky lifters, that assumption was just based on someone's two cents. I appreciate all the feedback though, thanks! I guess I'll give the Ralley Dealership in NY a shot.

As I have stated before oil color is not integral of anything. In all due respect the state of Texus gave Lube control millions to devopled there product called Fp. Also the oil testing house called dyson analysis does not think this stuff is "crap". Also some chemist seems to like it. So case-in-point, I would do some reading before calling anthing "crap".

[dcfish]

I would not dump any of that crap in my motor. did the oil look clean when you bought it? an 02 gs3 w/41k miles should not be ticking. if it is, that maybe covered under the 6 year/70k mile drive train warranty.

I agree that it shouldn't be ticking, but I'd have a better chance of winning the lottery than having any dealer find/fix/ let alone admit to a problem based on ticking. The oil did look clean when i purchased the car, probably because the seller just changed it. I'm not even sure if the loud idle has anything to do with sticky lifters, that assumption was just based on someone's two cents. I appreciate all the feedback though, thanks! I guess I'll give the Ralley Dealership in NY a shot.

As I have stated before oil color is not integral of anything. In all due respect the state of Texus gave Lube control millions to devopled there product called Fp. Also the oil testing house called dyson analysis does not think this stuff is "crap". Also some chemist seems to like it. So case-in-point, I would do some reading before calling anthing "crap".

The topic is starting to sound like a typical "LOC OIL" bashing thread. I wonder why ???

[mburnickas]

The topic is starting to sound like a typical "LOC OIL" bashing thread. I wonder why ???

No clue; but, I think when the word "crap" was posted, it was all down hill...LOL

[dcfish]

The topic is starting to sound like a typical "LOC OIL" bashing thread. I wonder why ???

No clue; but, I think when the word "crap" was posted, it was all down hill...LOL

I think you are on the right track. :whistles:

[chuckb]

ok, so I guess we don't need mechanics anymore. whenever a car is ticking or knocking, you can just dump some magic additive(crap) into the oil and everything will be fixed.

[dcfish]

ok, so I guess we don't need mechanics anymore. whenever a car is ticking or knocking, you can just dump some magic additive(crap) into the oil and everything will be fixed.

Another log on the fire ? Think about it...Nothing in a bottle can turn a wrench ;)

Mods, This is no longer a contributing thread.............

[chuckb]

Another log on the fire ? Think about it...Nothing in a bottle can turn a wrench ;)

Mods, This is no longer a contributing thread.............

Calm down buddy. I'm just saying there's no magic fix in a bottle. I honestly doubt he even has sludge. That tick could be coming from anywhere.

Like I said,it's under drivetrain warranty still, take it in to dealer and see what they say...

[dcfish]

Another log on the fire ? Think about it...Nothing in a bottle can turn a wrench ;)

Mods, This is no longer a contributing thread.............

Calm down buddy. I'm just saying there's no magic fix in a bottle. I honestly doubt he even has sludge. That tick could be coming from anywhere.

Like I said,it's under drivetrain warranty still, take it in to dealer and see what they say...

Actually I am quite calm, If you have been around here as long as I have been and seen how these type of threads go awry you would understand. No offense to anyone, Just gets beat real fast ;)

Like this thread has gone............ :o

[izzy300]

There's only one product that actually gave my pedal more power over the years.

That is Seafoam. Go to Advance and get it. It's in a white can with red writing. Put half the bottle in with a half-full tank of gas and the other half in your crankcase(oil) about 300 miles before you change the oil. The engine WILL become more responsive, run more efficienly - better mileage - and you will get more top-end power.

Trust me, this stuff works and I have tried dozens of engine flush products and none of the others seemed to do a thing.

Good luck!!

[djspawn00]

in closing... many moons later... i tried the seafoam out on another car of mine (160k) and it... well worked miracles... however i didn't try it out of my gs3 and I don't plan on trying it as I don't feel the need to fix something that isn't broken, several oil changes later about 2.7k intervals with mobil 1(i got a boatload for cheap) and the engine has quieted down, no more noticeable ticking. Thanks for all the info and feedback guys I'd be lost without it!