Result Of Mods To Sc400

[GaDawg]

A few other suggestions that I would like to share to help make the car run more efficent -

- Spark plugs and wire change- The bosche platinums spark plugs are probably the best after market spark plugs available for our lexo's for the price....Most of the high performance guys praise them over the stock old OEM plugs...Bosche wire sets are ok too...There are far better sparkplug wire sets available but they are usually twice the cost of the bosche wire sets....Wires and plugs help if you are do for the change and or tuneup.....

- For a smoothe idle cleaning/spraying out the throttle body and opening and closing throttle body fly and spraying that too with STP carb cleaner has helped on several occasions when using aftermarket air filters or if it has never been done on your Lexo....Cleaning the fuel system via the seafoaming from what I just learned also helps if you are experiencing a bouncing or rough idle...Every time I sprayed out my throttle body the car idles much smoother...Something to consider...

- Steel braided hoses....In my pictures you will notice I have no rubber hoses in or around my engine as I have fitted my original hoses with steel braided lining, even the smaller vacume hoses too......The steel braided hoses are slip ons that you can buy at most auto parts stores, Ebay, high performance shops etc......They are basically steel braided sleeves that slide onto and fit over the your original hoses.. I bought two steel braided hose kts for $50 each and that did the entire engine job...It is said you will never get a leak again as the steel braided hoses preserve and protect the rubber hoses for the entire life of your car...Should never have to change out another hose again...Looks great and sheilds the heat and elements...A win, win, win in my opinon....DO NOT BUY SPECTER brand steel braided hoses as they are cheap and crap. Any other brand should work just fine if you decide to do this...

- For interior decore lookd and upgrades look into Lextechlighting.com...This company can upgrade all your interior dash, climate control, and stereo lighting...I did my cluster to bright white as you can see in the pictures after my needles blackened out....$200 and way better looking then stock as shown in the picture above......

-

JIBBBY,

More great stuff...keep it coming.

I planned on going with the white lighting from Lextech as well, but I read about some bad experiences. I read that some folks who had to send their clusters to someone else to fix whatever Lextech did. I LOVE the look of the white lighting, but I don't want to pay them $200, then turn around and have someone els efix their mistakes. How was it dealing with them? How long did they have it?

BTW, I do have the number and address of the guys out in Cali who fix the HVAC bleeding LCD if you or anyone else needs help with that. They only charge $195, includes return shipping. They're actually the ones who repair HVAC for the guys on eBay that charge $335. I thought about having Lextech "whiting" them out after I get the LCD up and running again.

Where are your pics? I found the one of engine bay, but not the interior.

Found your pics JIBBBY

[JIBBBY]

Lextech lighting is ok...You send in your cluster and it is about a 2 week turn around....Not too many other options available for the blackout needles...I have not had any problems with my Lextech cluster so far and it illuminates very well... That is the story with the cluster lighting...

I also have the bleeding LCD screen on my climate control...I had the chance to buy a LCD replacement screen for $250 and I passed...Waiting for a better deal....I may be waiting a long time....That is not a cheap fix.... Ebay climate controls are used and they will go bad eventually too.... What options do know of for the bleeding LCD's?....

A suggestion - I bought an extra cluster off ebay and installed that and sent my original in to lextech, that way my car was not disabled at all...As soon as I got the cluster back I sold the extra one on Ebay and got my money back...I think I even made $20 if I remember correctly...

[GaDawg]

I think I'll go with DASH USA in Michigan who refurbishes the cluster as the stock appearance, but with better, brighter, longer-lasting lighting.

I will have the LCD repair company's contact info at home, so I'll have to get it later. They repair the units for dealers, as well as the eBayer who sells them for $335. You send them your HVAC (pay for shipment to them), then they replace every single bulb, as well as repair the LCD for $195 (includes shipping back to you). They said they can turn it around in a day. You could send it to them on Friday, they would have it back to you by Monday. I got their name from my Dad's Lexus dealer in Atlanta who has had success with them = reputable, trust-worthy; they're out there in Cali (Bay area). They didn't used to deal with individuals, but decided to change their practices and help some of us out without the middle man.

If you would like their contact info, I'll gladly pass it on. Hopefully, I'll be able to send mine in for repair sometime next week.

[Moony400]

JIBBY,

you mention that the dragon torque converter is great improvement for 0-30 mph and that is looses some power on the high end. Can you explain a little bit more on that? If you on the freeway cruzing around 60 mph and then decide to floor the pedal to pass some one, will you not feel the power? I see a lot of people say it's a good upgrade for better of the line start, but how much power our we loosing on the high end. Will the car be a slug trying to keep up with someone on the freeway?

Thanks,

Moony400

[JIBBBY]

OK, well torque is not just created it is transfered more or less....With the dragon torque converter the stall rate in the torque converter becomes more aggressive, there is less slipage and more lock up...The car really bolts off the line and becomes very fun to drive...You will pretty much hang with most sports car 0-30 mphand the feel is a complete opposite of how the stock torque converter feels...At stock you practically have to get out of the car and push to get it moving from a dead stop...The takeoffs can still be smoothe and slow too...Driveability and luxury does not suffer..

Ok what you lose at top end is 20% percent or so would be my best guess...So like 60mph-100mph it won't quite have that kick power with the ECT button on that you have now...The decrease is not that big of a deal but you will notice it slightly, but the gains at low end are night and day from stock...I would have to say it's the best mod you can do for the Lexus car in my opinion...The best thing about the D.T.C. is that you can still maintain the luxury feel of the vehicle, you won't jerk your neck and head back at launch unless you want too... Now, too gain back what is lost from this mod I would say you will need to change out your rear exhaust section to highflow. Like good conservative magnaflow oval mufflers and a magnaflow 2 into 1 cat...That will get you back to normal but you will really motor up to 30 or 40 mph after that....I smiled for weeks after that TC upgrade and still enjoy it after 2 years...I kid you not...It is not cheap but I would say it should be top priority if you want to bring out some fun spunk out of the car... I mention the Magnaflow exhaust because it resembles stock, has great flow and will not break the bank....Also won't rock the neighboorhood with excessive exhaust noise... Slap two high flow resonators on with the magnaflows and at it will be as quiet as stock and you should gain as much as 20-25hp with the complete rear exhaust section changed out on these older Lexus's... Hope this helps and that is the best as I can explain the upgrade..

[Moony400]

Thanks for the clarification on that JIBBY.

Moony400

[JIBBBY]

Thanks for the clarification on that JIBBY.

Moony400

My pleasure Moony, that is what these forums are for, and that is to share good information to help out everyone who reads it...

[LuckyApril7]

DAWG - you can pick my brain I don't mind...That is what the forums are for...INFO...

BRAKES - The brakes you are about to purchase should be fine and you will definetely notice an improvement...Go for that...... Front and rear D/S rotors and high quility pads should be the objective.... I think OEM pads and Brembro rotors are the very best, but your listings to buy items should be just fine....I used China made no name D/S rotors and OEM pads..Bought them both off Ebay... I noticed a .30% increase approx. in braking power after the install.....After your new brakes are installed I also suggest doing a brake fluid change out or flush, that can help too if that has never been done on your car or if you have air in the lines......

INTAKE - The intake you should look into is the BFI intake for cost savings and efficency...... The BFI intake costs nothing and is an easy way to open up the airflow to the engine to help it breathe better...Better efficiency usually means better gas mileage too....The BFI intake is a custom modification of your stock filter box which is really proven to work better then all the expensive aftermarket intakes like mine.....Go to planetsoarer.com and look into the BFI intake....If you want to keep it simple just get a K&N filter to replace your stock filter and be done with it.....You will never see big power gains with these SC's when upgrading the intake or air filters...The stock intake is really not all that restrictrive... The BFI intake or a true cold air box intake are the best two intake designs for the Lexus's...Mine is a mix of everything and is probably equal to either but not better...

Electrical - Replace the Negative big ground cable going from your battery to the engine block...It is about 3 feet long...The original ground cables can get crispy and deteriorate over the years and lose there potentcy.. Most people don't realise that you can lose power off those ground cables, and that is a proven fact.....That would be my first change out......Secondly for cost savings, I would get new Bosche spark plug wire sets and new Bosche spark plugs and install...I got mine off EBay for cheap...They are a good choice and not to costly...Thirdly, I would replace the two distributor caps and rotors as when recommended per the dealer scheduled maintenance.. I did all those things at once and noticed a difference... I also did a few other things too...That should cover your needs without breaking the bank...

Seafoaming I have never tried and can't really comment on it.. I have not heard bad things about it...

Exhaust- Ebay is where I got my Megan N1 straight thru mufflers. Really any straight thru mufflers will do, I picked Megan because they were on sale..They all pretty much perform the same... High flowing resonators are a must to reduce the exhaust noise....The final result of those changes will be slightly louder then stock...The Magnaflow 2 into 1 center cat is probably the best choice available when sticking with the stock exhaust piping..You cannot go wrong with Magnaflow cats.....The Blits Nur rear exhaust systems are a good expensive exhaust upgrade for around $700-$900...That is if you want to retain the stock exhaust look.... However, the Blitz will not out flow the straight thru mufflers and resonators that cost in total maybe $200..

The Cat and mufflers changes will bring a smile to your face...You will notice improved power and better better fuel efficency...The stock exhaust is so very restrictive... Exhaust mods are a must in my opinion on the older Lexus cars...

Feel free to ask questions I don't mind answering...That is how I started out years ago....

Brakes : If you plan on changing your rotors you might as well get cross drilled/slottled rotors because they're practically the same price as oem if not cheaper. I got my Brembos from a shop called Pitstop Motorsports in San Gabriel VAlley , California for $60 a piece. I got redline racing semi metallic pads for the same price $60 per axle. Also cross drilled/slottted rotors look and perform soooooo much better than oem.

Electrical : I have NGK iridium plugs for $8 each times 8 along with NGK blue sparkplug cables that are 8mm thick with individual ground straps. The cables cost me $150. Oem on ebay would cost me $100. I paid 50 more for waaaaay better cables. I got a drop in K&N air filter for $38. I changed out all my battery/starter/alternator cables to 4 gauge wires which are recommended especially if you have a sound system in your lexus.

EXhaust : I kept my stock exhaust but changed out both my tips for 4 " openings. I kinda lliked the purrr of my oem exhaust and plus i wanted to keep it a luxury car not a low budget noise making rice rocket.

[GaDawg]

LuckyApril7,

I found these on eBay for $190. They have both the drilled and slotted rotors, zinc plated, as well as pads. Here's the address for the rotor/pad set up I was looking into, whatcha think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-SC300...44120QQtcZphoto

I definitely plan on upgrading my plugs , as well as the wires. Where did you get the cables?

I'm also about to replace my entire sound system, so I'll look into the battery/starter/alternator wire upgrade.

I don't want the loud rice rocket action either, but I want them to be as free-flowing as possible...so I'm looking at the Blitz Nur Spec R w/ silencer, but I want them to look more stock, so Jibbby's Magnaflow set up is a definite option as well.

[JIBBBY]

Dawg - THe blitz Nur Spec is an excellent choice and expensive one too...That will take care of your rear exhaust section...If you can afford that then get it...Secondly look into the cheaper magnaflow setup...

Kicker sub and KX kicker amp is a good choice for upgrading the sound system from stock.....The front speakers do not need changing...Just the stock sub and two rear speakers next to the sub...I got everything off of Ebay...10" 600w kicker sub , Two 5" 300w inch Sony Ipod speakers and the 2 channel KX250 amp...It's almost twice as loud as the stock setup...However, I wish I would have gotten the Kicker KX350 Amp instead...I am just slightly underpowered for my taste.....My system rocks though.... The stock amp is rated at 300w but the KX250 amp is more like 500w...

NKG plugs and wires are also a good choice....

[LuckyApril7]

LuckyApril7,

I found these on eBay for $190. They have both the drilled and slotted rotors, zinc plated, as well as pads. Here's the address for the rotor/pad set up I was looking into, whatcha think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-SC300...44120QQtcZphoto

I definitely plan on upgrading my plugs , as well as the wires. Where did you get the cables?

I'm also about to replace my entire sound system, so I'll look into the battery/starter/alternator wire upgrade.

I don't want the loud rice rocket action either, but I want them to be as free-flowing as possible...so I'm looking at the Blitz Nur Spec R w/ silencer, but I want them to look more stock, so Jibbby's Magnaflow set up is a definite option as well.

I got my ground cables from my stereo shop. I chose monster cables 4 gauge, very nice and does its job well. They sell them by the feet at any stereo shop so just go measure what you need and add half a foot more for slack and you're good to go.

I took out my stock sub and used that hole as a bass port for my JL audio enclosures 10" W3's. I use Alpine V12's to push them. I also replace every speaker in my car with MB quartz. If you replace your car's system, its recommended you replace your speakers as well. Because your stock speakers are of a different ohm and were meant to go side by side with your oem amplifier. Now you want to push little stock mids with an aftermarket big boy amplifier and guess what, you're going to have to keep retuning your system to make it sound right. Do it right the first time and get your gear together without half assing your system. Trust me, I half assed it the first time to save money.

Also if your lexus is pre 95, i believe you can do away with your cat without harming your eng comp. and get better free flow at the same time. Just remember when you want more free flow , your low end torque will be sacrificed. You still need some back pressure for power.

[JIBBBY]

Latest project - Ok My SC400 is dishing out around 300rwhp and or around 400hp now....The stock auto tranny labors at times and is basically not performing to the engines potential... the shifts are too long at times, kick down shifting times when rolling takes forever, and the bottom line is that the stock SC400 trannies are not built with performance in mind..Which is understandable, they are built for luxury......I have found two cost effective options for upgrading the Sc400 transmissions to perform to todays sportcar standards while still keeping it a automatic and not a manual.....

!) Boost logic Transmissions (boostlogic.com) - This is a Lexus Tranny shop located in Austin, Texas and they build up your stock SC4 tranny to hold heaps of power for around $1800..They do the shipping thing too...Probably the best proven deal around while still keeping your original stock tranny.. Shifting is still pretty much the same, this company has been pumping out these built 400 tranny's for years now..... Again $1800 is the cost..

2) 1993-1998 Supra Twin Turbo Automatic transmissions # (A341E) - This swap is very doable without much if any modifications. The bolt patterns and fitment are identical between the sc400's and the 93-98 Supra's ....With the ability to handle 500whp the Supra TT auto tranny is simply better and built stronger then the SC400 tranny's.. They have a longer first gear, better and more timely shifting, etc.. Luxury is still possible too...

I just found a used 95 Supra TT Automatic tranny with 70,000 miles at a local junk yard and I may pick it up for $1000 in the next few days.....As you know those Stock Supra's were rated at around 300whp and do what 0-60mph in the mid 4 second range...They shift nicely too... In case you didn't know the Supra and SC lexus share identical subframes and most parts are interchangeable between the two cars...I currently am now running the Supra TT Limited Slip Differential and that just bolted right in, no mods needed......So I am hoping for around $1000 I can get a very nice and effective transmission upgrade with this... Wish me luck...Just need to aquire a little more info about the electical tranny reads and one seperate transmission pressure line and I am set to go....

Thought I would share this info just for the heck of it....

[GaDawg]

Dawg - THe blitz Nur Spec is an excellent choice and expensive one too...That will take care of your rear exhaust section...If you can afford that then get it...Secondly look into the cheaper magnaflow setup...

Jibbby,

I think you're right about sticking with the Magnaflow...I like the stock, oval shape better.

OK, so this should be a good plan:

1. Replace mufflers....Where did you get the Megan's? Where should I get them? Cost?

2. Add resonators...what brand should I look into to? Where to get them? Cost?

3. Replace main cat & Y pipes with magnaflow 2-in-1 cat w/Y design....where should I get this? Cost?

4. Should I replace all of the piping between the cat and the mufflers? What diameter? Cost?

[JIBBBY]

Dawg - THe blitz Nur Spec is an excellent choice and expensive one too...That will take care of your rear exhaust section...If you can afford that then get it...Secondly look into the cheaper magnaflow setup...

Jibbby,

I think you're right about sticking with the Magnaflow...I like the stock, oval shape better.

OK, so this should be a good plan:

1. Replace mufflers....Where did you get the Megan's? Where should I get them? Cost?

2. Add resonators...what brand should I look into to? Where to get them? Cost?

3. Replace main cat & Y pipes with magnaflow 2-in-1 cat w/Y design....where should I get this? Cost?

4. Should I replace all of the piping between the cat and the mufflers? What diameter? Cost?

Ebay has good deals....Straight thru mufflers are cheap and perform the best...However they are not oval like stock...Magna flows and Blitz Nur are oval... Megans N1's cost me $100 for both off of Ebay...$50 for two high flowing resonators... Magna flow center cat 2 into 1 maybe run you $150... Then if you really want to get serious delete the two little cats and get headers.... That covers the entire exhaust pretty much.. 2.25 inch mandrell rear exhaust piping is also the best......Now if you want to get real nasty, some have dared to put 3" straight pipes and Headers, no cats, etc....Remember the best exhaust is no exhaust, but there is special mods that need to be done to accomadate 3" straight exhaust on these SC's..The cross over in the exhaust piping is very important on our SC's....

[93LSOwner]

Hey Jibbby,

Is that a free air sub? 10"?

Does it make the car rattle a little or create a bass that you can feel.

[JIBBBY]

Hey Jibbby,

Is that a free air sub? 10"?

Does it make the car rattle a little or create a bass that you can feel.

Yes it is an air free 10" Kicker sub woofer, and yes the bass is rediculous if you adjust the amp setting for for bass...Twice the sub sound as stock... Kicker subs are one of the best....

[GaDawg]

Jibbby,

Need a hair more clarification...don't worry we'll get there soon.

I thought your mufflers were oval like stock, oh well.

I found the Megan's on eBay, do you have any pics of how they look on your car?

Where did you get your Magnaflow 2-in-1 center cat, from Magnaflow directly?

Where do the resonators go? Are they just before the muffler or just after the cat?

Do I have to replace the piping as I've seen in several forums or is it plug and play?

If I remove the two small cats and get headers, how much are we talking there and how involved is that?

I thought I read somewhere that you have to lift the engine up slightly for that mod. Does this lower the back pressure at all...am I going to lose any of that precious torque?

[JIBBBY]

Jibbby,

Need a hair more clarification...don't worry we'll get there soon.

I thought your mufflers were oval like stock, oh well.

I found the Megan's on eBay, do you have any pics of how they look on your car?

Where did you get your Magnaflow 2-in-1 center cat, from Magnaflow directly?

Where do the resonators go? Are they just before the muffler or just after the cat?

Do I have to replace the piping as I've seen in several forums or is it plug and play?

If I remove the two small cats and get headers, how much are we talking there and how involved is that?

I thought I read somewhere that you have to lift the engine up slightly for that mod. Does this lower the back pressure at all...am I going to lose any of that precious torque?

Ok let's see if I can answer these questions - Sorry I don't have any pictures of the back of my car...Need to shoot some...My hardrive fried and I lost all my pic's...Most upsetting..

Straight thru mufflers are circular and probably don't look as good as the ovals...They are the best performing mufflers out of the bunch...Megan N1 mufflers is what I have....

The Magnaflow 2 into 1 center main catalytic converter I got at a local muffler shop for like $100...Installed for $50.... The resonators are also circular and mount behind the mufflers right after the bend in the pipes...Any striaght portion of the exhaust is where the high flowing resonators can be mounted..It really doesn't matter...

You don't have to replace the stock piping, but if you want better flow 2 1/2 non mandrell piping or 2 1/4 inch expensive mandrell piping will flow just a little better then the smaller stock piping..Not a big difference as the mufflers, all three cats and the stock headers are what really restricts the exhaust flow...Remember the easier the exhaust gases can travel thru your exhaust system the more power and performance you will get....

Headers - scroll back up this thread and I think I described three header options available for the SC4's.... You will lose a tiny bit on lowend toque and I probably wouldn't consider the header upgrade until the torque converter is upgraded first...While you do lose a little at lowend you however gain a ton at topend...Torque converter first then headers would be my advise...Headers and deletion of those two little cats really makes a huge difference with exhaust flow.....Get the true bolt on headers when you are ready and not the S&S SC400 Headers like I have...There is some custom expensive fitting needed with the S&S Headers..

Hope that clears things up for you a bit...

[GaDawg]

Ok let's see if I can answer these questions - Sorry I don't have any pictures of the back of my car...Need to shoot some...My hardrive fried and I lost all my pic's...Most upsetting..

Straight thru mufflers are circular and probably don't look as good as the ovals...They are the best performing mufflers out of the bunch...Megan N1 mufflers is what I have....

The Magnaflow 2 into 1 center main catalytic converter I got at a local muffler shop for like $100...Installed for $50.... The resonators are also circular and mount behind the mufflers right after the bend in the pipes...Any striaght portion of the exhaust is where the high flowing resonators can be mounted..It really doesn't matter...

You don't have to replace the stock piping, but if you want better flow 2 1/2 non mandrell piping or 2 1/4 inch expensive mandrell piping will flow just a little better then the smaller stock piping..Not a big difference as the mufflers, all three cats and the stock headers are what really restricts the exhaust flow...Remember the easier the exhaust gases can travel thru your exhaust system the more power and performance you will get....

Headers - scroll back up this thread and I think I described three header options available for the SC4's.... You will lose a tiny bit on lowend toque and I probably wouldn't consider the header upgrade until the torque converter is upgraded first...While you do lose a little at lowend you however gain a ton at topend...Torque converter first then headers would be my advise...Headers and deletion of those two little cats really makes a huge difference with exhaust flow.....Get the true bolt on headers when you are ready and not the S&S SC400 Headers like I have...There is some custom expensive fitting needed with the S&S Headers..

Hope that clears things up for you a bit...

Thanks Jibbby, that's exactly what I needed. Sorry, I guess I had to force you to dumb down :chairshot: the explanation a bit in order for me to truly grasp it all...I like visuals and details, and now I have both. I know exacttly what direction to go now and I'll be sure to let you know (w/pics) as to how it goes.

Thanks again for your patience fine Sir!!

[JIBBBY]

Glad I can be of help.... You will experience nice gains with each exhaust mod you do...Mufflers yuou notice more power immediately, Center cat the same but not as dramatic...Headers and the two cat deletion will make you smile for sure....Good luck Dawg....

[marspe]

Glad I can be of help.... You will experience nice gains with each exhaust mod you do...Mufflers yuou notice more power immediately, Center cat the same but not as dramatic...Headers and the two cat deletion will make you smile for sure....Good luck Dawg....

Hi Jibby!

Wow I just got through reading this whole thread and I am really impressed. I have a 92 Sc400 that I've had since 98 and I'm just now getting in to crankin this baby up! I'm just down the 405 from you (Huntington Beach) and I actually work at Sony Pictures in Culver City.

Anyway, I'm looking at doing most of the upgrades you did, minus the NOS. The TC, Muffler/Header cat del, and the piggyback are probably where I'll start. The Air Filter/Intake mod is possible too. However, I'm definitely not the 'do it yourself' type of guy. Could you recommend a local shop or mechanic that could pretty much do it all for me? I realize that I'll pay a premium by not doing it on my own, but I definitely know my limitations.

Thanks for all the info!

[JIBBBY]

Wow you read this whole thread...You must have had some time to kill...Anyway, most of the work to my SC4 I did myself...However, exhaust mods I used Mr. Kool Muffler shop in South Central LA...They are cheap fast and good...Not the best of areas but the shop is safe and they are nice guys.. I am a white guy and had no problems, been their many times.. Example: A new Lexus radiator installed $150, they did my magnaflow center cat for $150 and had one in stock...Muffler installs $50 ( I brought them the mufflers).....I bought most of my mod exhaust stuff off of EBay and had them install everything...I am in the middle of a move so my paper work is buried in boxes...I will get back too you...Get the parts and I will tell you where to get them installed....Paint, radiator, exhaust, interior, I got the hook ups....

[Homer 94sc300]

for JIBBY and for DAWG about doin his exhaust ( I read the whole thing too) and all about the seafoaming which i plan to try

DAWG-Most mufflers, if you go cheaper (which really doesnt matter to much) will come with a 2.5" inlet, so thats probly the best size to go with in case you find some down deal on ebay or somthin, yuh know.

Also it would probably be worth your time (if possible) to find a good shop in your area where they might do custom work. Like i had this guy custom build my exhaust right in front of me in about 2 hours, $450 with labor and looks as professional as any. Its 3" piping that splits into dual 2.5" pipes. Also had radiator put in for $150. He also had used resinators for like $15 bucks a piece. And this weekend im puttin on some different 3.5" outlet stainless steel mufflers which i spent $30 a piece (its the same *BLEEP*). My point is that there are many shops that and could save you big bucks and time, rather than ordering all name brand stuff.

JIBBY- you basically have lead my path for me doing a lot of the same mods as I plan on doing on my SC (except im keepin my spare, are you crazy) And i plan on using maybe more like a 50 shot depending on how hard it seems to run it. But reading about your mods has been informing, i appreciate it. And I soon am going to be on the hunt for that supraTT tranny aswell.

And oh yah i kinda what to paint my front end, bumper mainly. You got a place thatll do a good job up there, how much you think? $$

Thanks for the good read you guys. Good luck dawg

[marspe]

Wow you read this whole thread...You must have had some time to kill...Anyway, most of the work to my SC4 I did myself...However, exhaust mods I used Mr. Kool Muffler shop in South Central LA...They are cheap fast and good...Not the best of areas but the shop is safe and they are nice guys.. I am a white guy and had no problems, been their many times.. Example: A new Lexus radiator installed $150, they did my magnaflow center cat for $150 and had one in stock...Muffler installs $50 ( I brought them the mufflers).....I bought most of my mod exhaust stuff off of EBay and had them install everything...I am in the middle of a move so my paper work is buried in boxes...I will get back too you...Get the parts and I will tell you where to get them installed....Paint, radiator, exhaust, interior, I got the hook ups....

Thanks for all the info Jibby! I definitely will be wanting all your 'hook up' contacts! Could you put together an exact parts list for me so that I'll know what to look for? Specifically, I'm looking at doing the following:

1. Torque Converter

2. Exhaust/Muffler/Cat mod

3. Piggyback chip

4. Air Filer/Intake mod/upgrade

5. Paint (I just had the front end repainted, cost me a fortune :( )

6. Interior. My Seats are a disaster.

Thanks again for all your help and information! Once I'm all done, we'll need to meet up and I'll be buying the first FEW rounds at least!

[93LSOwner]

Wow Jibbby, I must say you have influenced and lead a lot of performance enthusiasts on here, who were very rare before you joined.

If moderator positions are still up, I nominate you to be the mod of SC forums. You are a perfect candidate for the SC forum and a great asset to LOC.