Homer 94sc300

Been a while to respond. Ive only done the front end, time has been limited for work on my own car. timing belt, water pump, thermostat, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and wires, rotor car and distributor, few smaller gaskets along the way. Spent 2 whole days just cleaning inside and out on every part. not much yet. but runs better than when i bought it 6yrs/65k mi. ago, its at 170k now. Got a local transmission parts guy got everything new that ill need for a major overhaul on the A/tranny. i get with steels and filter and everything for about $270. but i did find a 94 auto supra tt trans with 84k miles on it for $700, still considering that but thatd mean lsd and maybe a drive shaft right and im not sure thats my top priority right now anymore, but i love the supra parts any chance i get. Car doesnt even drive yet with a burn clutch and/or torque converter. Torque converter i want a new custom one built to 2500 stall rate im thinking, any suggestions? i think much higher may run too hot but id love that extra performace. that'll be about $400, not bad. any further thoughts on these things id much appreciate. Ill be on the forum much more often these days. Thank You

is it a manual or auto?

Just serviced my LSD couple years ago but this 94sc300 is about to get an overhaul since Im having trans problems, or torque conv problems. Have another post in regards to swapping the tranny to a manual, prefferably from a Supra. other options: whats the stock stall rate on my torque converter now?, and what would be the best to change it too?, should it be rebuilt or replaced? I hear the Supra LSD will bolt right in there, looking for less top speed and transfer that potential into a more low geared car, more acceleration, i don't need to go 146mph where i live. Or do i have mine rebuilt to get that performance i'm looking for? make sense? i know its not much but i just gotta do it for my own self amusement. I work as a mechanic partner in an auto repair shop so labor costs are not a concern at all also prob gonna change the oil pan gasket anything, other than my novice questions that ppl recommend i do while i got the tranny dropped out, already lookin to replace all gaskets involved doing timing belt and water pump with radiator hose kit to go with my new radiator (which i replaced in O'reilys parking lot in 110 degree weather...fun shtuff) other ideas????? wanna do it all while im in there. much appreciated and still checkin my post on a auto to manual swap Turbo (low psi) on the way, but i wanna knock out these things first of course Input would be awesome

Just serviced my LSD couple years ago but this 94sc300 is about to get an overhaul since Im having trans problems, or torque conv problems. Have another post in regards to swapping the tranny to a manual, prefferably from a Supra. other options: whats the stock stall rate on my torque converter now?, and what would be the best to change it too?, should it be rebuilt or replaced? I hear the Supra LSD will bolt right in there, looking for less top speed and transfer that potential into a more low geared car, more acceleration, i don't need to go 146mph where i live. Or do i have mine rebuilt to get that performance i'm looking for? make sense? i know its not much but i just gotta do it for my own self amusement. I work as a mechanic partner in an auto repair shop so labor costs are not a concern at all also prob gonna change the oil pan gasket anything, other than my novice questions that ppl recommend i do while i got the tranny dropped out, already lookin to replace all gaskets involved doing timing belt and water pump with radiator hose kit to go with my new radiator (which i replaced in O'reilys parking lot in 110 degree weather...fun shtuff) other ideas????? wanna do it all while im in there. much appreciated and still checkin my post on a auto to manual swap Turbo (low psi) on the way, but i wanna knock out these things first of course Input would be awesome

My 94SC300 auto trans just took a dump, I work at a shop and can rebuild the thing, but really I'd much rather have a manual, preferably from a supra of course. Possible right? But is it probable. I'm think about going turbo in the next year maybe so Supra OE would be my first choice over the Lexus manual tranny. Anyone done a auto to manual swap? Cause I havn't yet and could use all the help I could get. Thank you Thank you

The factory 94SC300 tops at 146mph, I used to hit that speed every time I was on a completly open road up the state (few times a year), but damn thats fast. I'm happy topping out at about 110-120mph now. After about 70mph its at 110 pretty quick though after opening up my intake/exhaust flow. Did 140mph past CHP way back when, I saw he tried for a second and pulled off to the side finally realizing he wasn't going to catch me (I could hardly see him in the rear-view, totally open road, at about midnight). So I got off the road and laid low for a while. Goodtimes.

I have recently installed a slightly larger tire in the rear (265 on 18x9.5"rim), and I had to raise my coilovers inorder to fit the new tire without rubbing. A previous thread had a technique in doing this but was a little complicated acually using a "fender roller", has anyone already done this, how did you go about it?

Right, but should I go with $430 OE alternator from lexus, or order one online from Bosch or somthing for more like $200, and try to find a warranty?

I need a new alternator in my 94 sc300 ASAP, what are the benefits, if any, when going with an aftermarket alternator rather than with OE toyota, any recommended brands?

94 SC300... A couple of the lower control arms on my rear wheel are bent due to a minor accident. I am going to get the parts used and fix it myself, It looks very straight forward I am just wondering if there is anything I should know, or any tutorials on taking everything apart. Thanks for any tips.

I had dual straight flow mufflers similiar to Jibbys on my SC300...it was too much. Too loud and too-little back pressure, car accelerated faster after I put on a "turbo" chamber muffler, so you might be concerned about the back-pressure aswell? Just a thought

I will call some Header manufatures myself and see what I can find.... Did you ever get the GS400 headers installed? Did they not fit at the top, or the bottom? Did you have to customize anything? thankyou P.S.- I can get these for a damn good deal...And will install myself if atall possible.

My friend has after market headers for his 2001 IS300 he is willing to sell me them for a good price, I'm just wondering if they are compatible with my 94' SC300?

Alot more 400s on the road than the 300s, So you kinda get some rarity with the sc300 I think, which I like.

I have a 94 sc300 137k miles, In the same situation, black fluid, probably never been changed for all I know. What about doing the flush about 5-7 times with a cheaper transmisson fluid w/out starting the car inbetween flushes....does that make scense....And then finish with the appropriate transmission fluid. I was considering doing this, just wondering what anyone else thinks?

I dont think it matters whether or not you shop Supra or SC (300 or 400) coilovers, just look for....... Supra-1993-1998 SC-1992-2000 Reccomended to lower it no more than 1" I believe, but I have mine set probably 1.5" lower, with Tein Basic, and I do fine.

I'm no expert but...Ya stock wheels and tires deffinately are no good. 9.5" is as wide as you can go in the rear, 19" diameter is too big in my opinion (theres no tire). Suspension/wheels are inner-changeable with Supra, and I guess you can go 1.5" lower....looks how it should look I think. I did 18"x7.5" in the front, and a 18"x9.5" deep-dish rim in rear, Hankook Sport tires. Also have Tein Coilovers, lowered.....very happy

You need to look up the BFI, I've discovered in my opinion anything else is a waist of time. (and it doesnt have to be $$$) You basically cut a gaping hole in the stock air-box (using existing air-filter), build a custom box to become fully enclosed (no hot air from engine), and re-direct mass air into your intake. Look up the link in these forums. Then you want to change out the remainder plastic piece going into the throttle body with something metal, and more direct. My engine is significantly lounder and faster. But that deep sound of air-flow overwhelming the sound of my exhaust is pretty damn impressive................. good luck, and check out what he has to say...Result Of Mods To SC400

Mine goes in and out, but is stuck in the most up-right position. Trying to move it down will cause it to make a grinding noise. Its really bad, at first I didnt think I'd be able to get used to driving like that. Its been a while and Im ready to do something about it, I was affraid I'd have to replace the whole tilt-motor, which is about a $400 dollar part new. I can check it out now that I know what to look for.

Ya I've researched all mentioned above, mainly wondering how much of a gain can be expected by losing a few hundred pounds? (with lighter hood, battery,carbon fiber body parts, wheels, ) Torque conv. is the best thing, anyone know of any other good brands...or a factory one of a stock vehicle?

145mph....... Incredibly smooth (Had stock suspension at the time in my SC) Even pulled it another time with 3 passengers, held strong, good engine temp. (considering...) .......My SC does 120mph like its 80...once the heavy !Removed! car has some momentum its acually pretty fast.

I did some research and discoverd between the 94' N/A Supra and the 93-94' SC300 there is about a half second difference on the 0-60 and quarter-mile time . Also there only about 200lbs apart am I wrong? So carrying the same engine and tranny, wheres that difference coming from? Are there factory parts from the Supra I could be lookin out for to give me that difference....., intake manifold, headers, torque conv., whatever. Or how about somehow losing a few houndred pounds on the car...anyone know anything about doing that without stripping interior???

Exacly what I needed thanks. Got in there but still not sure whats going on and can't get the far screw for the door handle, Im on my way to have a guy whos done it many times to have him take a look, maybe help dis-assemble so I can see what parts I need then hit the wreckege yard. I just hope I dont need a new lock chamber.

My driver side door key lock just got jammed...I was locking the car with the key, I pulled the key out and the key hole stayed in the lock position....Now the key wont go all the way into the lock and the lock will not budge. Also now the interior switch will not unlock either side of the car, but it will lock it, so Im sure its not the switch. I havn't found a tutorial on removing the door panel (94 SC300) so any help or pointers would be great.....I have the screws along the bottom out, and under the armrest. The clips along the thin stretch on top (over the window) are easy, but Im not sure If the remaining perimeter of the widow is held with the same clips. I dont want to screw anything up so Im waiting to collect some kind of data first. I know theres a little plastic piece right in there, and a mechanic told me that could possibly be it but I really need to get in there and look at it. (Everybody quotes me at $90-100 just to do the dis-assembly and look at it.....ya right) Thanks

Mine on my other car werer pretty damn bad but....I could acually feel (with my finger) just the slightest bit of uneveness. Sounds primitive but worked for me, just make sure they arn't hot! ha Also I heard to drive easy on new pads or It may cause slightly warped rotors, I always have... but Im not sure how true it is.