GaDawg

If you're lucky enough to live in a city with shops that can recoat, you're good to go...pretty cheaply. But if not, like me, you would have to send it elsewhere to get it done (expensive) or buy them through the local dealerships boady shop at $179 a piece. That doesn't seem too bad until you consider that I bought four gorgeous Falken Torque 5 silver 18"x8" wheels for $145 piece...http://www.1010tires.com/wheel.asp?wheelmodel=Torque+5+-+silver&wheelbrand=Falken. BTW, I cannot tell you how incredible these Falken look on these cars....makes ya fall in love with them all over again.

Guys, I had the same problem. First, go to the junk yard. These grommets are the same on all Lexus' around the same year groups and I believe they're exactly the same as the Toyotas...makes sense. However, they were worn out from age and elements and didn't last too long. Lemaylexus, you may have better luck in IL than I did here in the Iowa side of the Quad Cities. Ratatat, you may have the same problem I did, but give it a shot What I ended up doing recently after the junkyard ones failed was go to the dealership and found out that they have them for, I think, a dollar a piece and you have to buy a pack of them...not too bad. It's worth it so the armrest doesn't rock all over the place. Happy hunting.

Status on driver's upper door trim? How about the long wood trim piece on the passenger door...condition & price? How about both wood pieces on the door?

Based on Jibbby's advice, I went with a K&N filter that fits in the stock box. I did notice a bump in performance, but I'm sure it's not quite as free-flowing a conical filter without the box. Its MUCH cheaper &53) though and it wil only help.

It will actually cost $350 to get the recalibrated TC from Lextreme, then once you send in your old one, they credit your account $175. Just $175 for quick launches? Thanks please.

Current (first automatic...EVER!): Diamond Pearl White 94 SC400 Planned: Black 10' Cadillac CTS Coupe Had (ALL manual...man I miss throwing!): Black 03 Mazda 6s Black 99 BMW 323i Silver 94 Toyota Celica GT White 92 VW Corrado Red 88 VW Wolfsburg Scirocco Champagne 87 VW Scirocco Black 84 VW GTI Black 79 Ford Mustang Turbo Cobra...my first car!

1. Pull out cup holder. 2. Remove screws holding down the rear portion of the console. 3. Assuming you have an AT, slide the trim on the stalk of the shifter down to expose two, rear-facing screws....remove screws. 4. Remove ashtray 5. Pull up panel around shifter and unplug wiring harnesses. 6. Remove screws at base of center console behind the ashtray assembly. 7. Pull out and down towards the shifter and the whole trim comes off. 8. You're good to go. I'm pretty sure I covered all the steps...if I missed one, it'll be obvious what it is and what you'll need to do. Cheers.

Mine too man! I was thinking about starting a thread on it as well. Last year it seemed OK, but this year is cold as hell in Iowa and I have to do all kinds of stuff to get it warm. First, I crank it up, let it warm up some. Secondly, I jump in and hold the throttle up to ~2500-3000 for about 20-30 secs to get it up to a reasonable temp. Next, while driving, I floor it every chance I get to get it to warm up. And finally, I put it in Neutral at stop lights and hold the throttle open as I mentioned before. This all actually works reasonably well, but my gas mileage sucks because of it (understandable). Unfortunately, as soon as I slow down, as you mentioned, it starts cooling down. I've tried all vent settings and nothing holds the temp for any extended amount of time. The final clincher is that the engine temp is just below halfway (normal operating zone) and stays there regardless of what the temp blowing out of the vents feels like. I do have to say once it gets REALLy warmed up, its too hot, but it's taking FOREVER to get there. Maybe someone out here knows what we can do.

Pics are a must.

I'll need a VIN JT8UZ30C4R0035848

So fooling around with the fuse and battery didn't work? If not, then your fix is replacing the TRAC actuator. I thought I was going to have to do this until I read about resetting it via the fuse and battery...good luck.

I know I'll probably regret even asking...How about a black leather, 3-spoke steering wheel (either GS or RX...99-00) and a single-stage airbag with the chrome emblem (I think the RX is the only one with the chrome for those years). Iin case the price is as bad as I think it'll be, is there any chance you may have a contact for used ones? Tan door panels for 94 SC400? Carpet (black or tan) for same? 97' conversion kit? If not the whole kit, the side skirts. Thanks.

How about your rotors and calipers? Condition? Price for all four corners to 52806? Thanks.

I believe there are 4...2 aft of the forward cats and (this is the part I'm not 100% sure of) 2 on the engine. As I understand it, the ECU collects data from the O2 sensor(s?) on the engine and the 2 aft of the cats to determine how the engine's running and adjusts accordingly. I would assume the primary O2(s?) are near the ECU or can be traced via connections. I hope this helps, probably not. :chairshot:

I love the way you installed your PC monitor up high and the climate control low...how did you make the trim for that? I have an Alpine IVA-W200 touchscreen headunit (about the same size as your monitor) that I'd love to raise up so my kids can watch DVDs from the back seats without the dildomatic blocking some of their view. Do you have a template for the trim? BTW, I like the simple, clean look of the black, but woodgrain #3 would be my choice if your leaning towards the woodgrain look.

My TRAC light came on after "gettin' on it" one day and all it takes is pulling the fuse to reset it. It think its the 30amp fuse under your hood (driver's side). Pull it out, and reinstall...that should do it. Hope that works for ya. If it doesn't, try disconnecting the battery and the fuse. Its worked like a champ for me twice now.

1. Opne arm rest and pull center cup holder out. 2. Remove 2 screws visible where the holder was. 3. For auto, slide the trim at the base of the dildomatic down, unscrew two screws on stalk, and pull straight up on the shifter. 4. Pull center black trim up and carefully unplug all wiring, then remove ashtray 5. Unscrew screws at the base of the vertical center console trim 6. Carefully, pull up and away on the center console trim 7. You'll now be able to remove the screws on each side of the HVAC that hold it to the bracket. 8. Unplug blacked out HVAC, replace with new one and reverse process. I may have missed a screw here or there (don't think so), if so you'll know and adjust accordingly. Its very easy (if not involved), but once you've done it a few times, its second nature. Have fun.

You can gat a replacement air filter (I went with a less restrictive K&N) at any auto parts store (O'Reilly's, AutoZone, NAPA, etc...) or a site like this... http://www.racepages.com/parts/air_filter/lexus/sc400.html If you need a cabin air filter replacement, here's a site... http://www.drivewire.com/lexusparts/cabinairfilter.html Barke pads anywhere. Google brake pads, SC?00 and surf the results.

Ditto. I expected them to lift the trunk once it was released, but you have to lift the trunk the first half a foot or so and it will continue to do the job and should hold it up fine.

anyone? im sure someone on here has removed their rear bumper before Pull the seat off and see for yourself...it's REALLY easy to do. Remove the four bolts holding the seat down and unplug the ECU's plug. Check it out. It might be something stuck in the track or it might be a bent track.

Jibbby, I'm going to take care of my TC early next year, but I have always wondered what kind of loss in the high range are we talking about. Is it being able to go 120 vs. 130 or does it kill it in th enormal highway cruising range?

???? I don't think that's the way to go at all. Besides looking wierd, you still have the highly restrictive resonators and a crappy sound to boot. Kill the resonators first, next replace the mufflers with hi-flowing, then go after the forward cats with hi-flowing, and finally look into straightening out the pipes with 2.25".

There are easy fixes for the battery and door lock mechanism (replacements), but the key issue may be a bit harder. It might be worth looking into the feasibility of swapping out the entire lock set up (doors, trunk and ignition) from a wreck. There are two good sources on Club Lexus in eth form of Aliga and R&J Distributing, they both have and dela in a bunch of salvage SCs. BTW, djmicah on this site just wrecked his SC, so I bet he'd have the keys and everything else you need since its his ride and it just happened.

Welcome Paddy. Read through all these sites and you'll find MORE than what you need. Just as a side note, don't pay Lexus a dime on certain repairs or mods until you've searched this site or Club Lexus for tips, explanations, etc... I bought a replacement door handle from the other site for $40 and installed it in <10 minutes. Some areas a bit cosmic/difficult, but there's plenty you can do yourself and save a TON. Once again, welcome to the fold.

Congrats. The stereo slot is an unusual 2.5" DIN; standard stereos are single DIN and most [all?] touchscreen stereos are 2 DIN. I installed an Alpine IWA-200 and it works perfectly. I had a small ~1" cover fitted below it to cover the difference in size, and it looks great. I replaced my entire system with Alpine (component & coaxial speakers, 12" subwoofer in the trunk with new amp for the stereo and a separate one for the sub). You have to use the stock stereo headunit and amp system in its entirety or not, no mixing. I'm not too sure about mixing the speakers in with aftermarket. Most of the parts you'll find will end up being universals. I installed high-flow Magnaflow mufflers and tips, removed the resonators forward of the mufflers and straightened out the piping in between the X-pipe (rear converter) and the mufflers with 2.25" diameter. I plan on replacing the forward cats with high-flow Magnaflow cats. I went for mufflers that filled the space and looked like stock (but slightly smaller and definitely lighter and higher flowing), so I went with stainless steel, polished ovals...here's where I got mine...http://www.hottexhaust.com/StainlessOval.htm. I think the mufflers are 14" long and the total length 20" w/pipe fitting 2.25"; they have them cheaper now than what I paid for mine. I got the tips from http://www.planetmagnaflow.com/shop/magnaflow-35158-476.html. The whole set up looks sweet...classy, but obviosuly modified. With the aforementioned exhaust pipe mods, you'll get a sweet, low, smooth sound like a European V8 versus an American burble. There's also improved throttle response and power in the high end; I also attribute this to a K&N filter in the stock box and seafoaming, as well as the less restrictive exhaust. Some folks, Jibbby for one (read his Results of Mods thread for excrutiating detail on options) use Megan or Blitz Nur set ups. It all depends on your preference. I have 20% black tint...IMHO colored tints can look dates quickly and nothing is a nice as straight black. Hope this helps. Feel free to ask whatever you need. Steve