breakilla Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Well he has done it again! Andrew Vlamos (email vlamos@bigpond.net.au or phone mobile 0411 227 007) Mr Perfectionist, has gone and manufactured upper control arm bushes for the front and rear wheels of the Toyota Soarer and Lexus SC Coupes. Now we can get superb quality bushes to match the Lower Bushes he is already famous for. When mine arrived in the mail again I had to admire them for the works of art that they are. So much cheaper to replace the bushes like this rather than buy a new control arm from Toyota. These are the only bushes that will give your Soarer that brand new feeling again. I copied and pasted this from www.planetsoarer.com check out the lower and upper control are bushing that they have to offer. They are made from spun steel and rubber and are suppose to be very good. The price is in the $300 range.. Jibbby someone hit my SC in the back. 2 days ago, I was not *BLEEP*ed off doe because im going to take advantage of the situation. My SC is in the shop now. i ordered the 97+ bumber and tail lights, and Im getting the car painted in the color starfire pearl thats the new white from the 2007 sc. looks very nice. I dont know but side by side the older SC i think kicks the new SC !Removed!. what ya think? Im still going forward with the other mods doe. check out the picture of my car and the new sc with the starfire pearl color. You might say hey why would i paint a perfectly looking car, but my car had alot of little imperfections, rust spots, the bumpers where painted with a flat white and one door was repainted, thats how i bought it. so im just going to do the whole car over with starfire pear white. pictures can really be decieving because my car looks perfect from the picture. what do you think about that new pearl color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 Sorry to hear you got smacked in the back end, I hate when that happens.... Yeah a new paint job of high quality does wonders for an older SC...It did for mine.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakilla Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 As far as the bushings i think im going to get the lower control arms. theres a guy on ebay his id name is lexmaniac and store name is original lexus part store. he has the oem set(right & left side) for $725 the rubber busshing from planet soarer are over $300 might as well spend another $300 and get the brand new control are with brand new bushings. lexus dont sell the bushings on its own. Pair that along with some new shocks and the ride should be like new. I was going to upgrade the bumper to the one with the grill but this bumper looks crazy im staying with it. The body shop is going to take out the headlights and give them to me for i can try the oven trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 I think it is a good idea to change out the entire lower control arms because not only do the bushings deteriorate there is a very important built in pivot joint with a rubber boot cover that wears out as well and is not replaceabe on the arms...My original SC control arm pivot joints were toast and infact in dangerous condition and that's on my 1992 SC400 with only 110,000 miles....I would press the brake pedal while moving in reverse and actually watch the tire move forward and back just a little bit which it is not suppose to happen.... My newly installed supra lower control arms fixed that and cost me $500 for both at the Toyota dealership, I think I got a dealer discount of 10%.....Lexus dealership SC400 LCA's almost costs twice as much and are not even as good and strong... My old arms with the daisen bushings inside them ended up in my garbage can....I've been running 3 years on the Supra's with the OEM bushings and love them..Can't say one bad thing about them... Try and buy all parts at the Toyota dealerships if possible and not LEXUS, it's amazing the difference in part prices between the two.... Remember most 93-98 Supra parts fits directly on our SC's perfectly...Same subframes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaDawg Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 GDawg - The suspension feel you are looking can be found with the Coilovers... They have different settings with variations so you can adjust the settings to your liking... The Eibachs are stiff lowering springs which increase handling and stiffness but decrease the luxury suspension feel... Shocks can stiffen up the ride a little bit but it's usually the springs that transform the suspension and feel...Control arm bushing replacement tighten up things and create a truer steering and suspension feel... That is the best I can explain it... Good luck with those Daisens.....If you want to make the daisens last then keep them lubricated, because there is no steel ribbed sides on those bushings so the grease is not held in place and over time you get a mushroom effect with the bushings, noise, etc... Repeat bushing Lubrication should help maintain the bushings, hopefully... Thanks again Jibbby. Of course I have a follow-on question...Should I look into the Tein CS Type Coilovers, the Flex Type or can I just go with the Basic Type? I guess I can't adjust the basic type, but the other twop are adjustable (re: lower a bit). I might have to look into the bushings that Breakilla mentions. Jibbby someone hit my SC in the back. 2 days ago, I was not *BLEEP*ed off doe because im going to take advantage of the situation. My SC is in the shop now. i ordered the 97+ bumber and tail lights, and Im getting the car painted in the color starfire pearl thats the new white from the 2007 sc. looks very nice. I dont know but side by side the older SC i think kicks the new SC !Removed!. what ya think? Im still going forward with the other mods doe. check out the picture of my car and the new sc with the starfire pearl color. You might say hey why would i paint a perfectly looking car, but my car had alot of little imperfections, rust spots, the bumpers where painted with a flat white and one door was repainted, thats how i bought it. so im just going to do the whole car over with starfire pear white. pictures can really be decieving because my car looks perfect from the picture. what do you think about that new pearl color? Sorry to hear (and see) your car was hit, but a set back only opens the door to opportunity. I want to paint mine the same color if I stay white, but I've been throwing around titanium as an option as well. How much i steh paint job going to set you back? I'm going to get the Executive Aero Kit (http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=1600) then get it painted...I have all the same little flaws as you. Can't wait to see it when its done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 GDawg - The tein flex would be your best and most expensive choice... That is if you can afford them.. Did you know they also sell a setting box that is mounted in the cabin...That is with a push of a button you can adjust the coilovers as you drive to stiff or soft...It's pretty cool, I think the control box is like $300 and is sold by Tein..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer 94sc300 Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 I just put in Tein type basic coilovers on my sc300, Im very impressed. I was going to go with the superstreet coilover but decided to save the other couple bills, and Im glad I did because they did just what I needed. The difference is night and day with these and with my 9" tires in the rear I feel like Im driving a race car compared to stock. I have it set as low as possible with no rub , its finally starting to look how I want it (Ill post some pics soon). So needless to say im very happy with my choice. Question is, what can I do to get my steering tighter (a stiffer feel in the wheel itself ). Would it be sway bars? or those lower control arms and bushings like you guys were talking about? I think I might get a front strut bar because they arn't much $$, but would I feel a difference with that? By the way Im planning on that Dragon T.C. and the SAFC piggyback ECU with engine tuning. Thanks for your opinion guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 Yeah the Basic's and SS teins are adequate coilovers for sure..A friend of mine has the SS teins and likes them very much... Too tighten up the steering I would say change your front LCA bushings and the single rack bushing and you should be good to go.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakilla Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Sorry to hear (and see) your car was hit, but a set back only opens the door to opportunity. I want to paint mine the same color if I stay white, but I've been throwing around titanium as an option as well. How much i steh paint job going to set you back? I'm going to get the Executive Aero Kit (http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=1600) then get it painted...I have all the same little flaws as you. Can't wait to see it when its done. The paint job is going to cost me $3000 but we are going to milk the insurance company as much as possible for that rear end hit. The paint shop is a very good shop and does high quality work. I will definitly post up pictures when i get it back. I hope im making the right choice by painting it starfire pearl instead of diamond pearl. They are not going place the order until this tuesday so there is still time to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted April 15, 2007 Author Share Posted April 15, 2007 Update on result of mods.... I installed my Nitrous system 4 years ago with the car showing 85,000 miles on it and it did not use one drop of oil back then....Now the car has 115,000 miles and is using more then one quart of oil between oil changes.... This is due to piston ring failure and or imperfections in the cylinder walls most likely caused by the continued use of nitrous... I was aware that Nitrous wears out motors prematurely and especally the smaller 4 and 6 cylinder motors, but I did believed the 1uz-fe could handle it better then most others...It is now clear to me that Nitrous will wear out even the 1uz-fe V8 motors too... So if you care about the life of your engine, I would advise you not to ad a Nitrous kit.... I must now contemplate a more powerful engine swap and or engine bore and rebuild sometime in the near future....That is just fine with me as I was going in that direction anyway... Just thought I would share this info. with any readers that maybe considering adding a 150 nitrous system to their SC3 or SC4.... Still I must say having the Nos system for over 4 years has been vantastic and very effective when racing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer 94sc300 Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Update on result of mods....I installed my Nitrous system 4 years ago with the car showing 85,000 miles on it and it did not use one drop of oil back then....Now the car has 115,000 miles and is using more then one quart of oil between oil changes.... This is due to piston ring failure and or imperfections in the cylinder walls most likely caused by the continued use of nitrous... I was aware that Nitrous wears out motors prematurely and especally the smaller 4 and 6 cylinder motors, but I did believed the 1uz-fe could handle it better then most others...It is now clear to me that Nitrous will wear out even the 1uz-fe V8 motors too... So if you care about the life of your engine, I would advise you not to ad a Nitrous kit.... I must now contemplate a more powerful engine swap and or engine bore and rebuild sometime in the near future....That is just fine with me as I was going in that direction anyway... Just thought I would share this info. with any readers that maybe considering adding a 150 nitrous system to their SC3 or SC4.... Still I must say having the Nos system for over 4 years has been vantastic and very effective when racing.... Some time in the far future (after my other little list of mods) I was considering a 50 shot, just for a little somthing extra, opposed to it being my main power upgrade. I knew NOS wore engines like no tomorrow, but I was thinking (assuming) just a 50 shot would let me get away without destroying anything, but im probably wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 A 50 shot won't do anything to the V8 lexus motors....Really, I didn't see any signs of wear or breakage while I was using 100hp shot for over 4 years....However, when I stepped the Nitrous up to the 150hp shot that is when all hell broke loose...Tranny, engine wear, etc... I think you would even be fine with a true 100hp notorous shot for many many years on the 1uz-fe motors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer 94sc300 Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 A 50 shot won't do anything to the V8 lexus motors....Really, I didn't see any signs of wear or breakage while I was using 100hp shot for over 4 years....However, when I stepped the Nitrous up to the 150hp shot that is when all hell broke loose...Tranny, engine wear, etc...I think you would even be fine with a true 100hp notorous shot for many many years on the 1uz-fe motors... Ya that sounds good, I do have the jz-ge in-line six though, so like you said It will have a different effect opposed to your V8 (forgot to mention that). My buddy had a Prelude 4 cyl. with a 50 shot and I heard he still took off, smaller engine smaller car but Im sort of guesing it would give me a nice kick on the straights....In the long run I just need to at least be able to out run an average sport/luxury car. First im doin Dragon t.c. , lsd, I would really really like a 5spd conversion but I need to talk to someone whos done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaDawg Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Jibbby, I'm due for Seafoaming, but I had one quick question for ya... The past couple of times I Seafoamed, I put a whole can into a nearly empty tank and ran it for a spell, but I haven't put it in via the PCV. If I go that route, which you said is the best/most effective technique, do I need to replace my nice new NGK platinum plugs afterwards? If so, I'll go with the half !Removed! tank technique, if not, I'll go the PCV route. Thoughts? GaDawg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schott1984 Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Jibbby,I'm due for Seafoaming, but I had one quick question for ya... The past couple of times I Seafoamed, I put a whole can into a nearly empty tank and ran it for a spell, but I haven't put it in via the PCV. If I go that route, which you said is the best/most effective technique, do I need to replace my nice new NGK platinum plugs afterwards? If so, I'll go with the half !Removed! tank technique, if not, I'll go the PCV route. Thoughts? GaDawg Seafoaming... I remember hearing about Seafoam a few years back. What is it again? And what's it do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 Yeah Gdawg, you suck up the seafoam thru the brake booster line...The car will stall, let it sit for 10 minutes...Reconnect the brake booster line and then crank the motor...The car will blow alot of smoke, repeat the process and you have one clean running motor....It's all very simple and effective.... A few have fouled their spark plugs but it is not likely or common...I have done it twice with no spark plug problems, a few friends the same....No need to change out the plugs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaDawg Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Yeah Gdawg, you suck up the seafoam thru the brake booster line...The car will stall, let it sit for 10 minutes...Reconnect the brake booster line and then crank the motor...The car will blow alot of smoke, repeat the process and you have one clean running motor....It's all very simple and effective....A few have fouled their spark plugs but it is not likely or common...I have done it twice with no spark plug problems, a few friends the same....No need to change out the plugs.... Cool, thanks. I saw some pics on one of the threads before that shows me which one osthe booster line, but haven't had any luck since...do you have a good pic? If not, no prob, I can dig into my manual and try and find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaDawg Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Jibbby,I'm due for Seafoaming, but I had one quick question for ya... The past couple of times I Seafoamed, I put a whole can into a nearly empty tank and ran it for a spell, but I haven't put it in via the PCV. If I go that route, which you said is the best/most effective technique, do I need to replace my nice new NGK platinum plugs afterwards? If so, I'll go with the half !Removed! tank technique, if not, I'll go the PCV route. Thoughts? GaDawg Seafoaming... I remember hearing about Seafoam a few years back. What is it again? And what's it do? It's an all purpose cleaner for your engine (i.e., fuel lines, crank case, etc..) or your transmission, brake lines washer lines ,etc... depending on which version you use. Its a white can (red writing) found in the section with fuel injector cleaners and such. http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm I believe Jibbby actually uses other brands (Valvoline or STP) to get the same results. It made a big difference when I put it in through my gas tank, but its diluted a fair amount that way. By going through the booster line it goes straight into the engine in a more concentrated form. As Jibbby says, it will smoke ( A LOT depending on how dirty your engine is), so do it where neighbors won't kill you if it gets too bad. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaDawg Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Yeah Gdawg, you suck up the seafoam thru the brake booster line...The car will stall, let it sit for 10 minutes...Reconnect the brake booster line and then crank the motor...The car will blow alot of smoke, repeat the process and you have one clean running motor....It's all very simple and effective....A few have fouled their spark plugs but it is not likely or common...I have done it twice with no spark plug problems, a few friends the same....No need to change out the plugs.... Cool, thanks. I saw some pics on one of the threads before that shows me which one osthe booster line, but haven't had any luck since...do you have a good pic? If not, no prob, I can dig into my manual and try and find it. I found this for an LS400, is it the same for us? http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;mode=threaded Do I need to go this far? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schott1984 Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 HHHHHmmmmmmmmm... I wanna try the seafoam now! How much do you let it suck up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schott1984 Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 And, isn't there a better vacuum source closer to the intake plate that would be better to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted April 19, 2007 Author Share Posted April 19, 2007 All the directions you need are on the Seafoam bottle...It's very simple....That is or usage in the fuel, oil, and intake... There are other vacume lines you can use, but the brake booster line is the most practical and common line used... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schott1984 Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 Ok. I might try it soon then. I have a pulsation in my brake pedal, likely from warped rotors... Is there any way to tell which rotor(s) is/are warped so I can have it turned (is that the right term?)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer 94sc300 Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I did seafoam not to long ago and saw absolutely nothing, and I dont really drive the car all that hard so I would think there would be some build-up in there. I did into the gas tank, intake, engine block.....maybe I should have done the brake booster line but Im not positive where that is. Seemed really odd to me but anyways I changed the oil, got NGK iridium plugs, new OEM wires ($120), and a new head gasket because mine was done for....So that may be why It didnt work, I dont know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIBBBY Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Homer - Yeah, seafoaming the intake makes the biggest difference, got to do the brake booster for sure.... Seafoaming the fuel is useless, the parts are like 1-100 seafoam to fuel...That kinda delution you are not going to get that much cleaning action...The oil seafoaming and intake seafoaming will do the trick though.. schott - When you have a warped brake rotor you will not be able to turn it and remove the warp...Turning the rotors only removes surface flaws and scratches where the pads make contact to the rotors...You need to replace warped rotors... Most warped rotors happen on the fronts so replacing both the front rotor with Drilled and Slotted rotors from either Ebay or somewhere else will fix the warping problem and the drilled and slotted rotors will greatly improve your braking power over stock...My D/S rotors have been great for what is going on for 4 years now...Got my Brembo rotors off of Ebay for like $200, really improved my braking power which I really needed... OEM pads are a good idea too.... Hope that makes sense to you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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