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The Changing Of My Timing Belt And Water Pump 56k Warring


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We last week i did the timing belt and water pump. please take a look at my pics i had a lot of problems and to some i found some half !Removed! solutions. like i was unable to get the cam sprocket off so if anyone knows how to do that i would love to know

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Ok i got to here and could not get the cam sprocket off. i tryed everything i even tryed making a tool pictured below to hold the sprocket but it just bent it up. I have no idea how to get them off and would love to know how any one did it

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all bent up and it still would not come off so i gave up and cut the cover with my dremell

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here i start cutting i realy did not want to do this but i had no other idea how to get it out

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when the waterpump was free it still would not come out becuase the studs are to long and it hits the frame. i had to put wood under the oil pan and jack up the engine a little to wiggle it out

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to reset this little timingbelt tencher u need to use a press and push the plunger back in and put a alen key in there to hold it

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You get the sprocket off by taking the valve covers off & installing your big wrench on the hex portion of the camshaft. Then rotate the camshaft until the wrench brinds against the head. Then the cam will stay still so you can get the sprocket bolt out.

Don't wedge the sprocket in place. You'll break the alighnment / anti-slip pin off the cam. They're not strong. I broke one of mine the last time i split a timing belt winter before last.

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No that's the only way. Otherwise, the cams turn anytime you rotate the bolt. In general, the cam bolts are on tighter than the amount of force it takes to rotate the cams. So when you go to take off a cam bolt (Normally around 80lbs) the cam just spins.

Take the upper intake air chamber off to get to the rear valve cover.

It is so helpful if you have a flexable extension shaft to do the rear valve cover, but a 6", or 9" extension & some time is all you need.

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do u think it is going to be a problem that i trimed this metal around the water pump? i did not think of it at the time but looking back it seams that the timming belt area is sealed up and now it is no longer becusae i trimed around the water pump

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  • 2 weeks later...

It shouldn't. You didn't cut the dog-bone mount off did you???

Wire feed welding. :) You've *got* to make yourself a new y-pipe. You'll be thanking me for years every time you hit > 4500rpm.

u have any pics or info on this y pipe i would love to put the welder to use

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Sure. This... Is the stock crap:

Stock-Ypipe.jpg

2" mandrel bend next to stock

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Merge

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Post y-pipe merge to cat next to a 2.5" pipe

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That's mainly what you don't want. You can build a new one for like $40-150. Get a high-flow cat (NOT a test pipe) off ebay to replace what you have & an o2 bung to put your heated sensor in post-cat. That way you don't throw a CEL.

For lack of any rescent Toyota v6 y-pipes. Maxima y-pipes! Same thing... Shows you what you want to do. This is more what you're shooting for:

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Don't worry about equal length. Just route the rear bank to the rear of the car & merge the banks.

If you go buy your pipe for $20 @ lowes like I did... It's galvanized mild steel. The fumes are quite bad for you welding galv. Weld outside.

Or just wire brush the galvanization off where you're welding. Takes a second. ;)

None of my mild steel pipes are rusting yet (After around a year on the car) *note* Alabama doesn't do salted roads...

So maybe spend $5 on a can of high-temp spray paint. Maybe not. Maybe buy a $100 powder coating gun & some high-temp powder. Maybe not.

Whatever.

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Toysrme

i like what i see but i have a couple more questions

how did u bend your pipe that is one thing i do not have access to

also were could i get the flanges to mount them to the headers and were could i get a flex pipe so as not to have the engine brake my headers when i hit the gas

I have welded in a couple of cat and removed a couple of cats and welded in a pipe before so i am sure i could do it.

Is it realy that much of a HP gain?

and if it is y does no aftermarket make one?

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cant we do two exausts like the es 350 or many other cars generally called as headers wont that be better and more power . is it easy to get done at a custom muffuler shop is it worth it how much do u think it will cost

Headers? Ya you can do custom headers. Save up $800-1200usd for them & don't expect more than about 10bhp average gain unless you're running high power (Like mild n2o / or turbo / super charged).

99% of the time headers get skipped b/c on a near stock normally aspirated Toy-v6 they just don't gain enough power to justify the cost by themselves.

(Why would anyone spend $1000 on headers when they could buy a wet n2o kit off ebay for $450-550 & make an easy > 75bhp, or take that $1000 & be well on their way with a turbo / super setup)

how did u bend your pipe that is one thing i do not have access to

I don't. I just use a 90* mandrel bend & angle cut the ends of it like I want it. Buy an extra angle & cut out any minor angle adjustments you need from that.

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(The rule of thumb in the turbo community, is that straight angles cut no more than 7.5* don't really impede flow. So with a bandsaw / chop saw, you could literally not need a bend. Just realize it takes a boatload more welding to do it!)

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also were could i get the flanges to mount them to the headers and were could i get a flex pipe so as not to have the engine brake my headers when i hit the gas

Almost everyone is just cutting the stock flange off & welding a pipe to it. You could also just buy a 3/8-1/4" mild steel plate (DO NOT make any type of exhaust flange out of stainless) & holesaw +drill that to fit.

Flex pipe is notoriously expencive. I suggest ebay where you can get any size flex you want for $25-40 shipped. You can also cut the big stock flex section off. Make sure it's in good condition. (I used one of the stock flex sections). Flex isn't good for just easing stress on the headers. It makes installation & remove soooo much easier!!!

I have welded in a couple of cat and removed a couple of cats and welded in a pipe before so i am sure i could do it. Is it realy that much of a HP gain?

On some cars it's not, on some it is. On these it is. I remember sean telling me years ago he picked up nice mid-top end after busting his clogged cat out.

My cat was not plugged like his, but I got a good noticeable mid-top end gain by getting rid of mine.

An easy 5bhp.

and if it is y does no aftermarket make one?

Like everything for the Lexus/Toyota v6 Camry platforms. There are a boatload of them sold, but no demand in the aftermarket. Bosal makes a replacement y-pipe. I hate the thing because it's just a direct copy of the Toyota piece. Just cheaper!!!

Test pipes would be easy to make & sell. Nothing more than 2 flanges & weld a pipe on there. Just know that only the 92-93 3vz-fe's that are non-CA / NY emessions don't need an o2 simulator circuit for the cat. (& 2vz-fe's, but I forget how their cat is laid out)

So would cat-back exhausts. (Good luck on shipping those! ;) )

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well i may try this

I found this store on ebay

http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Curve

they have flex pipes and sections of pipe with lots of different bends so u can put together what ever u need.

the problem is still the ends and the time it takes to make one.

I would need an old one to use as a template so i could still use my car. i will keep my eye out for a used one and if i find it i may do it

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That guy is pretty steep. You can get 2" mandrel bends that are the same Canadian mild steel pipe @ lowes / home depot for $7 a pop. You really only need two plus an angle cut, or two which is no big deal.

The best thing about lowes / home depot, is that you can buy 2 - 2 1/2" mild steel pipe 8-12' long for under $15! It's nearly always outside in the garden centers. As opposed to the 2 1/2' mild steel pipe @ an auto-store which will run about $5 for 2-3'.

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http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/tabvie...ype=RET&simple=

$40 chop saw. Ends next week I do believe. Harbor Freight is waky with their cheap sales.

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  • 1 year later...

That's the only way to take the cam sprocket off? What about using a cam sprocket holding tool? That's what I use. OTC, Snap-on, Mac, and many other tools manufactures make them. Or you could buy the Lexus one , that's made buy OTC, from the dealer for about $100.00. You don't have to remove the valve covers to hold the cam still.

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