New Power Steering System Installed Today

[prix]

Well, that wasn't the result I'd planned. Used ALL new components, OEM hoses, and reman pump and rack and pinion, both by Maval (lifetime warranty). Post install, when we took it out for a test drive, the steering was clearly 'stiff'. Not a lot of play in the wheel; the steering acts like it has a mind of its own. Drove 25 miles home...at one point pulled into a gas station and the steering was REALLY stiff on the turn in to the station. Then, as I was leaving, it felt a little looser. Does this mean I got a rack with a bad selenoid? I specifically asked Maval if that would have been cleaned or whatever and was assured that any rack they send off the line has been inspected from the ground up, including the selenoid, and also fully tested. The mechanic says the stiffness also might be caused by a bad computer (chip?). I don't want to go randomly replacing parts without knowing more ... what should I have checked out first? He's suggesting that we take the old selenoid out of the core and put it in the reman, for starters. Any suggestions about where to start? I don't want to get it aligned just yet if it looks like he might have to drop the rack out to solve the problem...Thanks all!

[alsalih]

I'm assuming that you had the front wheels off the ground and turned the steering wheel to bleed the system before you drove it? It appears that you need to bleed the system by turning the wheel with the front of the vehicle lifted. You will also likely need to add more fluid to it.

[SKperformance]

Did they add power steering fluid or tranny fluid?

Might have not connected the plug for the solenoid

over tightened the column nut

you did not get an alignment.

[prix]

i called 5 different dealerships about atf vs. ps fluid, and to a one, they said it did not matter, that lexus come off the assembly line with ps fluid in them, not atf with dextron and that when they flush the ps systems on servicing, they use regular power steering fluid. i know this board says otherwise, but i have spoken to lexus mechanics, which seems like a good source of info. so i don't think the fact that we used power steering fluid (high quality) would do this. sk, if you have other info/knowledge, please divulge. i don't know what the mechanic did (whether he bled system). checked ps pump this AM, and it seems to have been overfilled, slightly. i will followup and let you know how i get this resolved. thanks everyone for all good info. if you thnk of anything else, let me know...but i'll start with tehse suggestions first..

Did they add power steering fluid or tranny fluid?

Might have not connected the plug for the solenoid 

over tightened the column nut

you did not get an alignment.

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[Threadcutter]

Well, that wasn't the result I'd planned.    Used ALL new components, OEM hoses, and reman pump and rack and pinion, both by Maval (lifetime warranty). Post install, when we took it out for a test drive, the steering was clearly 'stiff'.  Not a lot of play in the wheel; the steering acts like it has a mind of its own.  Drove 25 miles home...at one point pulled into a gas station and the steering was REALLY stiff on the turn in to the station.  Then, as I was leaving, it felt a little looser.  Does this mean I got a rack with a bad selenoid?  I specifically asked Maval if that would have been cleaned or whatever and was assured that any rack they send off the line has been inspected from the ground up, including the selenoid, and also fully tested.  The mechanic says the stiffness also might be caused by a bad computer (chip?).  I don't want to go randomly replacing parts without knowing more ... what should I have checked out first?  He's suggesting that we take the old selenoid out of the core and put it in the reman, for starters.  Any suggestions about where to start?  I don't want to get it aligned just yet if it looks like he might have to drop the rack out to solve the problem...Thanks all!

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Prix:

Try removing the flow control valve from the new (Maval) pump. It probably has the letter "F" engraved on it. Also remove the flow control valve from the old (Lexus) pump . It probably has the letter "E" engraved on it. I just replaced my original "leaker" with a Maval rebuild. Mine too ('95 LS400) then drove like a truck. I temporarily installed the "E" valve into the Maval and the P/S sytem seems to work normally. I'm not sure if I will leave it that way long term. It wasn't difficult to do. But you do need a large (24mm ?) socket to remove the pressure port union. The flow control valve lives under the pressure port union. Try doing this before radical surgery.

LS400PSP1.doc

[prix]

i may be duplicating some other posts i've made on this 'stiff power steering' issue, but i also need to mention this info here, in case someone doesn't see the other thread. which is that even before i had this new power steering system installed, i had occasional problems with stiffening up of steering, followed by the car stalling out. there seemed to be a connection between the two. after the car konked out, it would start right up again, and the steering would be very light and easy. that would last about a day or so before it stiffened up again.

can anyone think of ANY reason for the steering to suddenly be 'fine' right after the engine quits and is restarted? to go from hard steering to beautiful fingertouch steering?

well, this problem is what got me looking into the IAC valve in the first place...that's why i'm questioning whether it has anything to do with the new PS components. it could well be the IAC valve though, since that was not replaced. could also be the ecu...which i dread if it is.

again, sorry for the duplication, but though i'd mention in case you don't see the other thread that gives more background on the problem. thanks in advance.

Well, that wasn't the result I'd planned.    Used ALL new components, OEM hoses, and reman pump and rack and pinion, both by Maval (lifetime warranty). Post install, when we took it out for a test drive, the steering was clearly 'stiff'.  Not a lot of play in the wheel; the steering acts like it has a mind of its own.  Drove 25 miles home...at one point pulled into a gas station and the steering was REALLY stiff on the turn in to the station.  Then, as I was leaving, it felt a little looser.  Does this mean I got a rack with a bad selenoid?  I specifically asked Maval if that would have been cleaned or whatever and was assured that any rack they send off the line has been inspected from the ground up, including the selenoid, and also fully tested.  The mechanic says the stiffness also might be caused by a bad computer (chip?).  I don't want to go randomly replacing parts without knowing more ... what should I have checked out first?  He's suggesting that we take the old selenoid out of the core and put it in the reman, for starters.  Any suggestions about where to start?  I don't want to get it aligned just yet if it looks like he might have to drop the rack out to solve the problem...Thanks all!

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Prix:

Try removing the flow control valve from the new (Maval) pump. It probably has the letter "F" engraved on it. Also remove the flow control valve from the old (Lexus) pump . It probably has the letter "E" engraved on it. I just replaced my original "leaker" with a Maval rebuild. Mine too ('95 LS400) then drove like a truck. I temporarily installed the "E" valve into the Maval and the P/S sytem seems to work normally. I'm not sure if I will leave it that way long term. It wasn't difficult to do. But you do need a large (24mm ?) socket to remove the pressure port union. The flow control valve lives under the pressure port union. Try doing this before radical surgery.

LS400PSP1.doc

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[prix]

why wouldn't you leave it that way longer term?

Well, that wasn't the result I'd planned.    Used ALL new components, OEM hoses, and reman pump and rack and pinion, both by Maval (lifetime warranty). Post install, when we took it out for a test drive, the steering was clearly 'stiff'.  Not a lot of play in the wheel; the steering acts like it has a mind of its own.  Drove 25 miles home...at one point pulled into a gas station and the steering was REALLY stiff on the turn in to the station.  Then, as I was leaving, it felt a little looser.  Does this mean I got a rack with a bad selenoid?  I specifically asked Maval if that would have been cleaned or whatever and was assured that any rack they send off the line has been inspected from the ground up, including the selenoid, and also fully tested.  The mechanic says the stiffness also might be caused by a bad computer (chip?).  I don't want to go randomly replacing parts without knowing more ... what should I have checked out first?  He's suggesting that we take the old selenoid out of the core and put it in the reman, for starters.  Any suggestions about where to start?  I don't want to get it aligned just yet if it looks like he might have to drop the rack out to solve the problem...Thanks all!

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Prix:

Try removing the flow control valve from the new (Maval) pump. It probably has the letter "F" engraved on it. Also remove the flow control valve from the old (Lexus) pump . It probably has the letter "E" engraved on it. I just replaced my original "leaker" with a Maval rebuild. Mine too ('95 LS400) then drove like a truck. I temporarily installed the "E" valve into the Maval and the P/S sytem seems to work normally. I'm not sure if I will leave it that way long term. It wasn't difficult to do. But you do need a large (24mm ?) socket to remove the pressure port union. The flow control valve lives under the pressure port union. Try doing this before radical surgery.

LS400PSP1.doc

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[Threadcutter]

Prix:

As it sits right now, I have a "New" (re-man) P/S pump installed, but it has a "used" flow control valve in it. I was somewhat suprised to see (more like finally find) a different flow control valve in the rebuild as compared to the original pump. The Maval re-man had the letter "F" valve and the Lexus had the letter "E" valve in it. I wont swear that they appear physically identical from the outside, but at first glance, they do appear that way. I didn't realize/dream that there was more than one version of valve until I re-read the rebuild instructions that I downloaded from the Lexus/Toyota tech info site. In the instructions, they listed A,B,C,D,E, & F. They said if you had to replace the flow control valve, to replace it with the same letter designation as what was originally there. That tells me that the flow control valve is "matched" (by either pressure or flow rating) to the particular rack that was supplied on the vehicle originally. I've attached the instructions in their entirety. See page "SR61" (Adobe Reader page 6 of 11). Anyway, with all the hassle I went to to get the old one out, I want the repair job done correctly. I may call "The Evil Empire's" parts department to see how much a letter "E" Flow control valve will cost. I would be willing to bet your pump has the incorrect rating flow control valve in it. If you still have the old pump, look on the body, just underneath the pressure port union (where the high pressure line connects to the pump). There will be a letter stamped/engraved there. I believe that letter refers more to the valve/mating rack than it does to the pump itself.

[Threadcutter]

Hmmmm.....

Glue didn't stick..........

[prix]

Well, that's pretty rank if they put a different valve in there. Can't anyone do anything right? I have a low idle issue that may or not be caused by dirty throttle/faulty idle air control valve assembly, and am going to start there first. I'll also have the mass air flow sensor looked at, etc., and will take this (your) suggestion into consideration too . That you had that experience with a Maval concerns me. I have talked to them at corporate (Ohio) and got all kinds of assurances that they rebuild according to specs. Well, an E valve where there should be an F (or vice versa) does not sound like they are taking such great care after all. If it were a one time problem, or a fluke, that would be another story, but I rather doubt it.

Well, I have not resolved this issue as I type, and will keep plugging along. I did disconnect battery; the only thing that did was to make the 'normal' idle level even lower. It's now idling at 450 as opposed to 650. Not good in other words.

Prix:

As it sits right now, I have a "New" (re-man) P/S pump installed, but it has a "used" flow control valve in it. I was somewhat suprised to see (more like finally find) a different flow control valve in the rebuild as compared to the original pump. The Maval re-man had the letter "F" valve and the Lexus had the letter "E" valve in it. I wont swear that they appear physically identical from the outside, but at first glance, they do appear that way. I didn't realize/dream that there was more than one version of valve until I re-read the rebuild instructions that I downloaded from the Lexus/Toyota tech info site. In the instructions, they listed A,B,C,D,E, & F. They said if you had to replace the flow control valve, to replace it with the same letter designation as what was originally there. That tells me that the flow control valve is "matched" (by either pressure or flow rating) to the particular rack that was supplied on the vehicle originally. I've attached the instructions in their entirety. See page "SR61" (Adobe Reader page 6 of 11). Anyway, with all the hassle I went to to get the old one out, I want the repair job done correctly. I may call "The Evil Empire's" parts department to see how much a letter "E" Flow control valve will cost. I would be willing to bet your pump has the incorrect rating flow control valve in it. If you still have the old pump, look on the body, just underneath the pressure port union (where the high pressure line connects to the pump). There will be a letter stamped/engraved there. I believe that letter refers more to the valve/mating rack than it does to the pump itself.

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[Threadcutter]

Prix:

Actually, I'm not really pointing the finger at anybody, particularly Maval. I think that Lexus was forced to design a variety of valves with with different pressure/flow characteristics. If I'm correct, I think it would be because of different steering rack characteristics. There are probably different rack characterisitcs by design because of variables like tire designs, slight variations in diameters, widths, etc. If I'm right, Maval would have been in the un-enviable position of having to guess as to which "letter" of valve to install by default. I'm confident Maval actually do a good job and indeed rebuild to spec. It may sound funny, but I don't really have a gripe with Maval. If I'm upset about anything, it's the fact that there doesn't seem to be any documentation anywhere that elaborates on the "whys" behind mulitple valves. When I decided to replace the pump myself, I "briefly" entertained the idea of buying a new pump from "The Dark Side". The $595.00 price tag altered my thinking. But if I had gone the Lexus route, what "letter" of valve would the Lexus pump have come with? When I got a price quote from the parts department at the dealer, they did not ask what letter of valve I was replacing, so it was all a big surprise to me. I still don't know if the Maval pump with the used "E" valve is OK in the long run. I'll further guess that the difference in the "E" & "F" valve(s) are different internal spring pressure(s) as well as different internal orifice size(s), none of which are visible without dis-assembleing both valves and comparing them side by side, which I might still do. As an aside, I purchased an "AutoXray EZ Scan 6000" OBDII analyzer today.

I purchased it after confirming that yes, my '95 LS400 is OBDII compliant (wasn't supposed to be that way until '96). There is an OBDII receptacle up underneath the driver's side dash. It seems to be the "hot item" these days. I've got a buddy who has had one for about a month and he can't say enough good things about it. He quickly solved a Throttle position sensor problem that the dealer wanted $1,000 for. His cost? $5.00 for a 5Kohm potentiometer. He's a techie, he had a 5Kohm potentiometer in his pocket. At a little over $400.00 for the analyzer, seems like he paid for it twice/three times.

If you're interested, I'd be happy to send you the link for the online ordering website. Great deal, free shipping.

[prix]

You have me intrigued. Please post link and I'll consider. Sounds like a nice gadget! But the car has to be OBDII compliant to use? Who do I call to find out if it is?

As an update, had a nice long chat with my very humane mechanic today, and he suggested that I do a 'test' to rule out whether low RPMs are contributing to stiff power steering. Put it in park and rev engine up to 3K rpms and hold it there for a time, then try turning the steering wheel left and right. Still stiff? Then it's not low RPMs. Kind of made sense. I tried it and steering seemed to ease up. Which points right back to throttle or IAC valve or maybe that flow valve in the pump itself (the one you are talking about). I might give Maval a call. Yes, they've been very helpful to me everytime. I haven't put them on my s**&2-off list just yet! I still have the original pump but haven't yet done the checking on it. I will certainly take your info about that valve to the mechanic (as well as arm myself with all the other options that i want to be sure he looks at) and i will get to the bottom of this. I was told by some parts guy that the IAC valve assembly (on the power steering line) is replaced fairly often (he sells a lot of those in other words), but that he has yet to sell the IAC valve on the throttle. Not sure if I got the terms right, but you probably know what I am talking about. ... thanks!

Prix:

Actually, I'm not really pointing the finger at anybody, particularly Maval. I think that Lexus was forced to design a variety of valves with with different pressure/flow characteristics. If I'm correct, I think it would be because of different steering rack characteristics. There are probably different rack characterisitcs by design because of variables like tire designs, slight variations in diameters, widths, etc. If I'm right, Maval would have been in the un-enviable position of having to guess as to which "letter" of valve to install by default. I'm confident Maval actually do a good job and indeed rebuild to spec. It may sound funny, but I don't really have a gripe with Maval. If I'm upset about anything, it's the fact that there doesn't seem to be any documentation anywhere that elaborates on the "whys" behind mulitple valves. When I decided to replace the pump myself, I "briefly" entertained the idea of buying a new pump from "The Dark Side". The $595.00 price tag altered my thinking. But if I had gone the Lexus route, what "letter" of valve would the Lexus pump have come with? When I got a price quote from the parts department at the dealer, they did not ask what  letter of valve I was replacing, so it was all a big surprise to me. I still don't know if the Maval pump with the used "E" valve is OK in the long run. I'll further guess that the difference in the "E" & "F" valve(s) are different internal spring pressure(s) as well as different internal orifice size(s), none of which are visible without dis-assembleing both valves and comparing them side by side, which I might still do. As an aside, I purchased an "AutoXray EZ Scan 6000" OBDII analyzer today.

I purchased it after confirming that yes, my '95 LS400 is OBDII compliant (wasn't supposed to be that way until '96). There is an OBDII receptacle up underneath the driver's side dash. It seems to be the "hot item" these days. I've got a buddy who has had one for about a month and he can't say enough good things about it. He quickly solved a Throttle position sensor problem that the dealer wanted $1,000 for. His cost? $5.00 for a 5Kohm potentiometer. He's a techie, he had a 5Kohm potentiometer in his pocket. At a little over $400.00 for the analyzer, seems like he paid for it twice/three times.

If you're interested, I'd be happy to send you the link for the online ordering website. Great deal, free shipping.

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[Threadcutter]

You have me intrigued. Please post link and I'll consider. Sounds like a nice gadget! But the car has to be OBDII compliant to use? Who do I call to find out if it is?

Prix:

Your mechanic sounds like a good guy! Lift your hood. Right next to the hood latch is a sticker. It will say whether it's OBDI or II. Also, there's an OBDxx connector under my dash & the cap on the connector says OBDII. Mine's an 1995. Here's the link;

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/as.../qx/product.htm. I just got home and the Scanner had arrived and was/is waiting for me. Obviously, I can't say much about pro's/con's just yet, as I have yet to use it. I'll keep everyone posted though.

This weekend, I'm going to remove the lower filter that is next to the solenoid in the steering rack, clean it, replace, and flush the P/S fluid. As I read from other posts, this process should be repeated multiple times to clean everything out. With the old Letter "E" valve (still) inplace, the P/S is quite good, but not perfect. I'll give it a 98% at this point. My "new" guess/theory is that if the lower filter is dirty/partially clogged, that you won't get that "silky smooth", "one finger" turning of the wheel. If, after I've flushed everything, the steering is 100%, The "E" valve is staying in place long term. If I'm correct, then "harder" steering is a good indicator that I need to look after cleaning the filters and changing the fluid. The P/S in the LS seems to be a weak point, but it looks like if a person keeps on top of maintenance, it should be OK. I've always really liked the 400's, so it's not that big of a deal to me.

I'm going to go play with the scanner now...........

[prix]

since i just replaced the ps system lock stock and barrel (put in all new and/or rebuilt components), i am ruling out any clogged solenoid filters as the cause of hard steering. maval assured me they clean those screens on the rebuilds. the steering seems to be stiffer at lower speeds, when turning, when i turn the AC on, etc. if i rev it up, and then turn wheels, seems easier (but still not 'finger touch' steering). frustrating, because every now and then i can feel it behaving (steering wise) in the way that it should. i want that 100% of the time. mechanic is looking at it next week. i'll leave an update here. thanks for the follow-up!

You have me intrigued. Please post link and I'll consider. Sounds like a nice gadget! But the car has to be OBDII compliant to use? Who do I call to find out if it is?

Prix:

Your mechanic sounds like a good guy! Lift your hood. Right next to the hood latch is a sticker. It will say whether it's OBDI or II. Also, there's an OBDxx connector under my dash & the cap on the connector says OBDII. Mine's an 1995. Here's the link;

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/as.../qx/product.htm. I just got home and the Scanner had arrived and was/is waiting for me. Obviously, I can't say much about pro's/con's just yet, as I have yet to use it. I'll keep everyone posted though.

This weekend, I'm going to remove the lower filter that is next to the solenoid in the steering rack, clean it, replace, and flush the P/S fluid. As I read from other posts, this process should be repeated multiple times to clean everything out. With the old Letter "E" valve (still) inplace, the P/S is quite good, but not perfect. I'll give it a 98% at this point. My "new" guess/theory is that if the lower filter is dirty/partially clogged, that you won't get that "silky smooth", "one finger" turning of the wheel. If, after I've flushed everything, the steering is 100%, The "E" valve is staying in place long term. If I'm correct, then "harder" steering is a good indicator that I need to look after cleaning the filters and changing the fluid. The P/S in the LS seems to be a weak point, but it looks like if a person keeps on top of maintenance, it should be OK. I've always really liked the 400's, so it's not that big of a deal to me.

I'm going to go play with the scanner now...........

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[Threadcutter]

Prix:

Just an update, in case it might help you. I just finished flushing (5 quarts of Valvoline Dexron III) the P/S system. Prior to doing that, I removed the steering rack solenoid that has the filter on it. The filter was BLACK with gunk! It was so bad that I could not see any light through it. It is a very small screen as opposed to an actual filter. I surmise it has to be that way because it is on the discharge side of the P/S pump, which can reach 1200 PSI. Nevertheless, it really seemed like a very small surface area to pass fluid into the P/S solenoid gallery. I blew out the screen, immersed in fresh P/S fluid and repeated this process multiple times. In the meantime, I had re-installed the solenoid without the screen in order to flush the P/S system. I had my wife start and almost immediately stop the engine. I would then check the P/S fluid level. NO KIDDING the pump is high pressure! If your are not careful, you'll suck the reservoir dry of fluid in mere seconds. Anyway, I completed the flush, re-installed the filter/screen on the solenoid, re-installed the solenoid, "burped" the system and it now runs like a dream! It now has the old "one finger" turning, just like brand new. So, to me, the moral to the story is to ALWAYS check/clean the rack solenoid filter/screen. When I was doing this work, I removed the air filter and MAF ducting, all the way up to the second hose clamp. With it like that, you will get a "CEL" when you start the engine. In fact, the engine will stall because the MAF is disconnected. Used the AutoXray unit to plug in, read the fault and clear it. Everything worked like a champ. Hope this in some way helps you.

[lenore]

very informative, thanks for all the tips.

[cardona6569]

Prix:

Just an update, in case it might help you. I just finished flushing (5 quarts of Valvoline Dexron III) the P/S system. Prior to doing that, I removed the steering rack solenoid that has the filter on it. The filter was BLACK with gunk! It was so bad that I could not see any light through it. It is a very small screen as opposed to an actual filter. I surmise it has to be that way because it is on the discharge side of the P/S pump, which can reach 1200 PSI. Nevertheless, it really seemed like a very small surface area to pass fluid into the P/S solenoid gallery. I blew out the screen, immersed in fresh P/S fluid and repeated this process multiple times. In the meantime, I had re-installed the solenoid without the screen in order to flush the P/S system. I had my wife start and almost immediately stop the engine. I would then check the P/S fluid level. NO KIDDING the pump is high pressure! If your are not careful, you'll suck the reservoir dry of fluid in mere seconds. Anyway, I completed the flush, re-installed the filter/screen on the solenoid, re-installed the solenoid, "burped" the system and it now runs like a dream! It now has the old "one finger" turning, just like brand new. So, to me, the moral to the story is to ALWAYS check/clean the rack solenoid filter/screen. When I was doing this work, I removed the air filter and MAF ducting, all the way up to the second hose clamp. With it like that, you will get a "CEL" when you start the engine. In fact, the engine will stall because the MAF is disconnected. Used the AutoXray unit to plug in, read the fault and clear it. Everything worked like a champ. Hope this in some way helps you.

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You should call Maval and have them send you the correct letter valve and give them the other valve, because the one you installed is an old one waiting to fail. Can you post a picture of the solenoid filter area. Does a 98 has it? C

[Threadcutter]

Cardona:

Great idea! I think I will do just that. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. If you do a search for "Power Steering Solenoid filter", there's an entire thread, which is where I got my information before I started. Here's a link to the piture of the solenoid and filter;

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/DSCF0018.

Here are two links to threads that go into more detail;

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...olenoid++filter.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=12024&hl=

For reference, from underneath, the solenoid will turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to loosen. The threads on the solenoid are right hand, just like 98.5% of all other threads in the world. I jacked up the front end of the car, put it on jackstands, then removed the driver's side front wheel. This gave me plenty of room to get at the solenoid from underneath. I unplugged the mating solenoid connectors and removed the "fixed" connector from the bracket that the solenoid connector physically attaches to. This MUST be done first so that when you loosen and turn the solenoid, it does not break either of the two wires going to the solenoid itself. I have been using "Kroil" penetrating oil for years, and this was no exception. I sprayed a little above the large thin nut on the solenoid, came back 15 minutes later and used a small punch & small ball peen hammer.......worked like a champ. I removed the solenoid and removed the filter/screen. When removing the filter/screen from the solenoid, I used a single edge razor blade under the screen/filter and "walked" the filter/screen up the body of the solenoid, being careful not to damage it. It really wasn't hard to do at all. Based on the condition that I found the filter/screen in (black & clogged), I wonder if it had ever been cleaned.

Have any of you found or used an inline filter that you've had good results with? It appears intuitively obvious that it could only be installed in the low pressure return line, just before the pump's reservior. I'd like to use a clear body so that I can visually see what the condition of the fluid is.

As far as your '98; I don't know, but I would bet money that it is at least similar, and maybe even identical.

You should call Maval and have them send you the correct letter valve and give them the other valve, because the one you installed is an old one waiting to fail. Can you post a picture of the solenoid filter area. Does a 98 has it? C

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[monarch]

  used a small punch & small ball peen hammer

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This is the step I get stuck on. I can't figure out where to place the punch or why people are attemping removal of a threaded component using tools like punches and chisels instead of wrenches? And then when reinstalling the solenoid, how do you seal it back up to the steering rack? Do you need to use new O-rings and if so where do you buy them? Thanks for any further assistance you can provide.

[Threadcutter]

  used a small punch & small ball peen hammer

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This is the step I get stuck on. I can't figure out where to place the punch or why people are attemping removal of a threaded component using tools like punches and chisels instead of wrenches? And then when reinstalling the solenoid, how do you seal it back up to the steering rack? Do you need to use new O-rings and if so where do you buy them? Thanks for any further assistance you can provide.

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Monarch:

Worry not.....The punch & hammer is the easiest (& probably smartest) way to get the solenoid "broken loose". Yours probably won't be that hard to break loose, unless Godzilla installed it. You know who they are, the ones that work at tire stores, re-installing lug nuts on YOUR (and my) car. Mine was not difficult. Just remember, RIGHT HAND THREAD (normal). It unscrews COUNTERCLOCKWISE when viewed from underneath it (From the floor looking up). When I used the punch & hammer, it was more like "Tap, Tap, Tap"; not "Pound, Pound & more Pound". When you have the car in the air & the wheel removed, you'll see the solenoid attached to the rack. It has two wires coming off of it & it has that big, thin nut on it. The nut is actually part of the machined nosepiece that comprises the front portion of the solenoid body. The nut does not rotate on an "inner thread" of it's own. Rather, the forward portion of the solenoid has a round, threaded projection (nipple) that is probably close to 3/4" (but obviously metric) in diameter. Check out my recent post with the links to other threads on this board. Other posters have provided pictures. I'm a "noob", so I can't attach files to my posts yet.

Working from the driver's side wheel well, if you locate the punch on a "corner" of the nut (on the side of the nut closest to you) and the punch is facing the radiator (forward), you're going the correct direction for removal. You will be very surprised at how little the nut has to rotate in the counterclockwise direction to be able to rotate the entire solenoid by hand. An anology to the "Nut" statement is; would you call the hexagonal set of "flats" on an oil filter a "nut"? The answer is No. This "Nut" is part of a bigger piece, just like the flats on an oil filter are part of a bigger piece.

The reason for the punch/chisel is that the nut is only about 1/8 th of an inch thick and about an inch and a half (guessing) in diameter (again, obviously metric). You would need a VERY large wrench and there just isn't room.

Yes, there is an O-ring toward the end of the solenoid body (nipple), ahead of the filter/screen. Yes, you can replace it. I did not. Time will tell if I should have. The parts department at the "Evil Empire might sell you one, but they will probably have to order it in. They probably stock the whole solenoid and would rather sell you the entire solenoid. Not necessarily bad, but spendy $$$$$$. After having done mine (and the fabulous improvement it made) I'd recommend that you give it a try.

[Kennyr]

The problem is you cant get a wrench on this solenoid. Mine was very tight and it took more than a slight tap tap to get it turning. I had to hit a big punch pretty hard to break it loose. Once loose you just finger turn it off. I didn't remove the screen, just squirted it off with brake cleaner and lightly used a pocket screwdriver to break up what was left. Note! Mechanics use break cleaner all day long and only once in a while for brakes. I also just left the old o-ring on there. I just hand tightened it and taped the punch to tighten it. Botta bing botta boom simple job. My pump return hose is petrified also. It was tough even with a heat gun, impossible without. I shoved it back on though since I was too lazy to go for a new one.

[monarch]

Thanks Threadcutter & Kennyr. The procedure is much clearer in my mind now. Now I just need to wait for a reasonably warm day so I won't freeze in my garage while working on the car!

[prix]

I have resolved the stiff steering problem. See my Dec. 2nd post to verify how naive I really am. Today, the mechanic (without asking me) replaced the solenoid in my 'new' reman rack by putting in my original solenoid (I still had the cores, as I was saving them until I had the stiff steering issue resolved). He has been trying to switch out the solenoid from day one, but I would not let him because it made no sense ot me that the reman rack and pinion I purchased would not have been gone over with a fine tooth comb, meaning the solenoid would not have been cleaned. He then showed me the solenoid that he had taken out. You are correct, it's a very small screen and it was filled with gunk. I am not happy at all that I was sold this part with a dirty solenoid, and that I have been driving around for the better part of three weeks, worried about what could be causing this stiff steering problem. Making countless phone calls and wasting tons of time on this issue Before I ever bought those parts, I had even made a phone call to Maval's corporate plant in Ohio, and gotten assurances that they clean those screens and test their racks on a bench before they ever leave their plant -- that was why I bought Mavals in the first place! I really question now where the person who sold me my Power steering pump and rack got those parts! Were they Maval rebuilds??? Worse, even if they are Mavals, I question whether, if they didn't clean the solenoid, what is the quality on the rest of the rack and pinion rebuild? Or the power steering pump for that matter. Here's a kicker for you. Maval tells me ALL their pumps come out of that plant painted a gunmetal grey. Fresh coat of paint. Guess what! The pump I have is a mottled grey, hardly any paint left on it, with bare metal showing in places -- large areas of bare metal showing through; it looks like it's been sandblasted. In other words, I don't think there's a chance that Maval did the rebuild of that part. The top of the reservoir is dinged up too. You can see bare metal. Now, Maval tells me any pump with dents or dings in it would have been rejected. And there should be a 5 digit serial number engraved on the pump. I cannot find one. My mechanic cannot find one. I called the online shop who sold me this part today, and she tells me she's been buying from her distributor for 20 years and never had a problem. Well, that's what they all say, I have a feeling. No offer to cover my duplication of labor charges if I have to also put in another power steering pump, no offer to pick up the cost of the extra labor costs I incurred today, in order to resolve a stiff power steering issue that was caused by being sold a part with a dirty solenoid. No serial numbers: The mechanic looked everywhere, including using a mirror. Unreal. I DO have fingertouch steering once again, but it should not have been this hard...and I still do not know if this power steering pump is acceptable. I also noticed the power steering fluid is not as clean looking as I would expect, given that it's a brand new system and new fluids, etc. What would you guess that whatever 'tint' I am seeing there is the result of that reman rack not being as clean as it should, or perhaps the reman power steering pump also not being clean? There is also no screen in the reman power steering pump. I will go over these issues with Maval tomorrow. If there is an issue with these parts, I do not think it was Maval who screwed up. If there is dishonesty involved, that's coming from other parties.

ote=Threadcutter,Dec 3 2005, 08:15 PM]

Prix:

Just an update, in case it might help you. I just finished flushing (5 quarts of Valvoline Dexron III) the P/S system. Prior to doing that, I removed the steering rack solenoid that has the filter on it. The filter was BLACK with gunk! It was so bad that I could not see any light through it. It is a very small screen as opposed to an actual filter. I surmise it has to be that way because it is on the discharge side of the P/S pump, which can reach 1200 PSI. Nevertheless, it really seemed like a very small surface area to pass fluid into the P/S solenoid gallery. I blew out the screen, immersed in fresh P/S fluid and repeated this process multiple times. In the meantime, I had re-installed the solenoid without the screen in order to flush the P/S system. I had my wife start and almost immediately stop the engine. I would then check the P/S fluid level. NO KIDDING the pump is high pressure! If your are not careful, you'll suck the reservoir dry of fluid in mere seconds. Anyway, I completed the flush, re-installed the filter/screen on the solenoid, re-installed the solenoid, "burped" the system and it now runs like a dream! It now has the old "one finger" turning, just like brand new. So, to me, the moral to the story is to ALWAYS check/clean the rack solenoid filter/screen. When I was doing this work, I removed the air filter and MAF ducting, all the way up to the second hose clamp. With it like that, you will get a "CEL" when you start the engine. In fact, the engine will stall because the MAF is disconnected. Used the AutoXray unit to plug in, read the fault and clear it. Everything worked like a champ. Hope this in some way helps you.

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[Threadcutter]

Prix:

That's great news! (albeit somewhat bittersweet) Wow, it sounds like you've really been throught the ringer on this one. The re-man I purchased was/is a Maval. It did have some small chips of gray paint missing, but not large enought to worry about. I didn't knpw about the engraved S/N, so I don't know if my re-man has the S/N on it. My general impression was that the re-man was done pretty well. I was not left with the feeling of "just what kind of "yokel" did this work".

I know you're probably sick of anything resembling P/S right now, but did you replace the high pressure hose as well? If you didn't, it could be that the old hose continues to "shed" crap off of the inside of it, thereby clogging the solenoid screen. I'm really asking for my own benefit, because I really don't know if something like that is plausible or not.

If you didn't replace the hose and it clogged the new rack solenoid, then it would stand to reason that it will soon clog the original solenoid screen. I very seriously doubt that will happen though. The one nagging thought I have about this whole experience is just how cheesy that tiny little screen is on the solenoid. "Yoshi, you receieve an "F" for design, and go to the back of the class right now".

In my post that you tagged on to, I describe how I flushed the system. I'm curious, so I may flush it again, just to see if the integrity of the fluid looks OK. However, whenever I flush the system in the future, I will ALWAYS remove the screen on the solenoid (temporarily). It's just a shame that there isn't a way to install a large volume (relatively speaking) high pressure screen/filter on the high pressure discharge side of the pump. Would be nice if it were servicable and had a sight glass so you could see the integrity of the fluid at a glance. Hmmm.......I have some customers that are hydraulics distributors....I think I'm gonna ask some "dumb questions". I'll let you know.

[monarch]

Well prix, you and 914lps have been learning the hard way how many costly and fustrating things can go wrong if you use aftermarket parts and general automotive repair shops instead of Toyota specialist type shops. In any case, I'm glad you found out the clogged solenoid filter screen was the root cause of your stiff steering.

Maintaining a troublefree LS power steering system is really very simple. Just clean the solenoid filter screen periodically and change the fluid periodically and the power steering pump, hoses and steering rack will last for hundreds of thousands of miles, just as they do on other Toyotas.

The LS400 is the only Toyota / Lexus that has a steering rack solenoid and since it was a totally new design for Toyota back in 1990, the engineers probably didn't realize how easily it could become clogged. Perhaps Toyota has made engineering changes on the 2nd or 3rd generation LS's that have eliminated the filter screen clogging problem.