Solenoid Filter

[rahlo1]

1991 ls. I have tried every thing to get this thing off to clean the filter but it wont budge. I tried chissel,nail punch, screw driver just about everything and the only thing i managed to do was mess the nut up. My question is if i get some giant vice grips and grip the entire solenoid and turn it will that get it off because the other way just isnt working for me. any advice would help thanks

[larryp]

Boy do i feel inadequate - what is a solenoid filter? I thought the solenoid is what kicked the starter into action. I also have a 91. Where is this filter located?

[lenore]

What kind of solenoid?

[91ls400]

i tried at it once and couldnt get mine either... finally gave up and off the the toyota dealer it went

[lenore]

Alright guys, what are you guys talking about. What kind of solenoid has a filter?

[atoyoT]

Alright guys, what are you guys talking about.  What kind of solenoid has a filter?

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It is on the steering rack. Close to the input shaft, (steering wheel shaft) a cylinder with wires coming out of the end. I was able to get mine loose with a large channel lock set of pliers.

[rahlo1]

Alright guys, what are you guys talking about.  What kind of solenoid has a filter?

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It is on the steering rack. Close to the input shaft, (steering wheel shaft) a cylinder with wires coming out of the end. I was able to get mine loose with a large channel lock set of pliers.

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did you turn the whole solenoid or just the nut on top of it

[rahlo1]

i tried at it once and couldnt get mine either... finally gave up and off the the toyota dealer it went

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did you get to see how they took it off? how much did they charge you?

[laserron]

I also had luck with the channel locks. The cylinder and nut turn together. When you get it off be careful cleaning it, It has small fine mesh as the actual filter mechanism.

Attached a picture and someone elses idea of how to get it off. Note the punch did not work for me. That is why the channel locks or a thin adjustable wrench work

Good luck on your new project.

LaserRon

Power_Steering_Solenoid_filter.doc

[Leadfoot]

The solenoid filter shown in the picture (in the link above) has a fine mesh filter over the inlet to the solenoid. The solenoid positions itself according to the vehicle speed and this is what gives you your speed sensitivity in your power steering.

The flow control valve (which is part of the rack assembly) has a small relief valve in it which is fed through the solenoid. This relief valve controls the maximum pressure of the pump. The amount of this maximum pressure is very important; if it is too low, there will be insufficient power steering assist and if too high, it will have an adverse effect on the pressure hoses, oil seals, etc. That is why a clogged filter is a bad thing as it affects the correct pressures.

Hope that helps.

Leadfoot.

[AzHotLS]

Adjustable wrench worked for me. I knew I had seen a thread discussing this with pictures and finally found it!! All the way back to Aug 2004:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=12024&hl=

Post #7 has the solenoid pics.

This is definately one thing to add to the yearly DIY maintenance checklist.

[rahlo1]

Adjustable wrench worked for me. I knew I had seen a thread discussing this with pictures and finally found it!! All the way back to Aug 2004:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=12024&hl=

Post #7 has the solenoid pics.

This is definately one thing to add to the yearly DIY maintenance checklist.

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ok guys i got the solenoid off. the funny thing is everyone was saying hit the nut with this or that but i just turned the whole solenoid and it came off leaving the nut in place. i dont know if this is the way it is supposed to be but it seems to have worked a little so this weekend i will do a complete flush and clean it again. i will post results next week

[rtd111]

Hey, a quick question, kinda silly: which way does the nut turn. I worked on it with a chisel and a flathead (separate tries :-), "gently" tapping) to no avail and wondered if I was tapping the right direction. Looking up do I turn the nut (or as someone suggested, the solenoid) right / clockwise or left?

And just to doubly confirm and not waste fluid: I am rebuilding & replacing the PS Pump. After its in, do I flush the PS Fluid first and then clean the solenoid filter or the other way around?

THANKS MUCH.

[Gumart1]

With the front wheels on jack stands for the flush, if you are on the driver's side of the car on your stomach and raise your head straight up, you would want to turn it counterclockwise, striking the left side of the solenoid nut.

I had to spray the nut with Liquid Wrench a few times before I could chisel it loose. A few light taps did it, then it unscrewed by hand easily. Make sure you have a small bucket to catch the fluid as it spills about 10oz. from that area. Regarding the flush I would install your new pump first, then flush, then clean the solenoid screen. Your new pump won't see any old fluid because the return hose is disconnected, and if you cleaned the solenoid screen first instead of last you'd be flushing dirty fluid through your newly cleaned screen. Now is a good time to add an inline power steering filter to keep the fluid extra clean. I'll have pics up of mine soon.

[monarch]

rahlo1 says the solenoid nut does not come off. Gumart1 and some others says it does come off. Some say there are gaskets / o-rings that need to be replaced and other say not. This whole matter of removing the solenoid just gets more and more confusing.

[rtd111]

...

Now is a good time to add an inline power steering filter to keep the fluid extra clean. I'll have pics up of mine soon.

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Thanx for the note. Look forward to the pics and also the spec and where this goes.

[rtd111]

I am having a heck of a time :cries: removing the nut on the solenoid. I've spent several hours trying various options. As I go into that, please confirm that I have it right in (3) below:

1) I removed the front left / driver side tire and put the car on jack + jack stands.

2) Uncliped the wire connection to the solenoid.

3) Facing UP to the solenoid from the bottom of the car, I tap it left to attempt to turn the nut counterclockwise. This is the correct direction to unscrew it, right? (I wouldn't be on my stomach, Gumart1, when under the car but your counterclockwise still holds, I assumed.) Its got to the point where the metal is breaking off which means frustration is causing the taps to be more than just taps.

4) I even removed the high pressure hoses on the rear facing side of the pressure control valve, but cannot reach the front ones -- space too cramped and I don't seem to have the right tools reach those. Any suggestions here.

5) Tried lock pliers but unable to get grip around the nut.

I've sprayed the nut with fair bit of WD40 to no avail.

I am on my third evening with getting the solenoid separated.

PLEASE HELP.

[monarch]

I'm in the same boat you are. I can't even get the wire connection to separate. In any case, Threadcutter & Kennyr offered the following suggestions yesturday of how to get the solenoid broken loose. When you figure everything out, then I hope you will tell us in hand holding detail what procedures worked for you.

Threadcutter:

Worry not.....The punch & hammer is the easiest (& probably smartest) way to get the solenoid "broken loose". Yours probably won't be that hard to break loose, unless Godzilla installed it. You know who they are, the ones that work at tire stores, re-installing lug nuts on YOUR (and my) car. Mine was not difficult. Just remember, RIGHT HAND THREAD (normal). It unscrews COUNTERCLOCKWISE when viewed from underneath it (From the floor looking up). When I used the punch & hammer, it was more like "Tap, Tap, Tap"; not "Pound, Pound & more Pound". When you have the car in the air & the wheel removed, you'll see the solenoid attached to the rack. It has two wires coming off of it & it has that big, thin nut on it. The nut is actually part of the machined nosepiece that comprises the front portion of the solenoid body. The nut does not rotate on an "inner thread" of it's own. Rather, the forward portion of the solenoid has a round, threaded projection (nipple) that is probably close to 3/4" (but obviously metric) in diameter. Check out my recent post with the links to other threads on this board. Other posters have provided pictures. I'm a "noob", so I can't attach files to my posts yet.

Working from the driver's side wheel well, if you locate the punch on a "corner" of the nut (on the side of the nut closest to you) and the punch is facing the radiator (forward), you're going the correct direction for removal. You will be very surprised at how little the nut has to rotate in the counterclockwise direction to be able to rotate the entire solenoid by hand. An anology to the "Nut" statement is; would you call the hexagonal set of "flats" on an oil filter a "nut"? The answer is No. This "Nut" is part of a bigger piece, just like the flats on an oil filter are part of a bigger piece.

The reason for the punch/chisel is that the nut is only about 1/8 th of an inch thick and about an inch and a half (guessing) in diameter (again, obviously metric). You would need a VERY large wrench and there just isn't room.

Yes, there is an O-ring toward the end of the solenoid body (nipple), ahead of the filter/screen. Yes, you can replace it. I did not. Time will tell if I should have. The parts department at the "Evil Empire might sell you one, but they will probably have to order it in. They probably stock the whole solenoid and would rather sell you the entire solenoid. Not necessarily bad, but spendy $$$$$$. After having done mine (and the fabulous improvement it made) I'd recommend that you give it a try.

Kennyr:

The problem is you cant get a wrench on this solenoid. Mine was very tight and it took more than a slight tap tap to get it turning. I had to hit a big punch pretty hard to break it loose. Once loose you just finger turn it off. I didn't remove the screen, just squirted it off with brake cleaner and lightly used a pocket screwdriver to break up what was left. Note! Mechanics use break cleaner all day long and only once in a while for brakes. I also just left the old o-ring on there. I just hand tightened it and taped the punch to tighten it. Botta bing botta boom simple job. My pump return hose is petrified also. It was tough even with a heat gun, impossible without. I shoved it back on though since I was too lazy to go for a new one.

[rtd111]

Thanx monarch, for the info.

Well, the "tap" did not work for me, and I was doing it as described by Threadcutter, so I assume someone went on it with all his (her?) might.

After the post, I read again related posts on this and felt maybe I should try turning the solenoid, since that's something I hadn't tried yet.

With a lock plier, I clutched the solenoid fairly tight and turned counterclockwise with all my might and IT TURNED (per rahlo1) -- all the while afraid I might dent it but nothing more than scratches, after which I put couple of layers of duck tape. The pliers sometimes slip but I continued to turn it. I see the ORing being crushed out in pieces. The solenoid body is kinda scrached. I am four-plus turns on this after about 20 mins or so but it hasn't "popped" loose yet, and it does not seem to unscrew from anything: I see some bare metal between the nut and where the solenoid is coming off. I still can't turn it by hand - still pretty tight. I have to rely on the pliers. The body is kinda getting scratched and I thought I better take a break and check responses. That's where I am.

About the wire:

- towards the side that snaps onto the holder (the oppo side from you, viewing from the left tire side), there is a semicircular/roundish piece of the plastic. Turn this face towards you and gently pull on this piece while also pulling the left side of the piece and it should come free. I had some trouble with this but discovered this (and read a few minutes ago that the DOC file attached to this thread, posted by laserron, pretty much says this).

Hope this helps.

So I am now waiting for responses on when the solenoid will actually separate. Also, the nut is in place and I suppose I still have to remove it to put the ORing (or whatever piece of rubber that is giving away as I turn the solenoid body).

Await more info.

THANX in advance, all.

[rtd111]

....

About the wire:

- towards the side that snaps onto the holder (the oppo side from you, viewing from the left tire side), there is a semicircular/roundish piece of the plastic. Turn this face towards you and gently pull on this piece while also pulling the left side of the piece and it should come free. I had some trouble with this but discovered this (and read a few minutes ago that the DOC file attached to this thread, posted by laserron, pretty much says this).

...

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Er, about the wire, the semicircular piece is near you, oppo side of the snap.

Well, there is only one such piece and its the one you pull up, gently. (Spent waay too much time on this job.

[monarch]

Yeah you better wait for more responses since your solenoid is not unscrewing off with just a few turns like others have described. Has a flood of PS fluid come out yet? Is yours a '90 or '91 on up model? I gather there are some considerable differences between model years and that may be one reason everyone's description of the removal process varies so much. Did you use Vise-Grips type locking pliers? Standard Vise Grips or the the design that helps grab round things like the solenoid?

With regard to the electrical connection you said "semicircular/roundish piece of the plastic. Turn this face towards you and gently pull on this piece while also pulling the left side of the piece and it should come free" . So are you saying the two plastic pieces will separate by just pulling them in opposite directions? Is there a plastic tab that needs to be depressed or lifted while you are pulling?

[rtd111]

Yeah you better wait for more responses since your solenoid is not unscrewing off with just a few turns like others have described.  Has a flood of PS fluid come out yet?  Is yours a '90 or '91 on up model?  I gather there are some considerable differences between model years and that may be one reason everyone's description of the removal process varies so much.  Did you use  Vise-Grips type locking pliers?  Standard Vise Grips or the the design that helps grab round things like the solenoid?

With regard to the electrical connection you said "semicircular/roundish piece of the plastic. Turn this face towards you and gently pull on this piece while also pulling the left side of the piece and it should come free" .  So are you saying the two plastic pieces will separate by just pulling them in opposite directions?  Is there a plastic tab that needs to be depressed or lifted while you are pulling?

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Yes, I am going to wait for responses: the thing has stopped turning and will not pop off (drop to the bottom) yet. Tried again to tap the nut hoping it will have some play to come out now but no avail.

When I removed the two high pressure hoses (from the rear facing side), about a cup or so of ATF did come out. A few additional drops came from the lower port when I started to unscrew the solenoid but nothing more than that, so I assume most of it came out when I removed the pressure hoses yday.

I used the vise grip type locking pliers, not Sears but like these: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...0&subcat=Pliers

Have only flat nosed, not rounded jaw, so used what I had available tonite.

My car is a 91 LS400.

The "semicircular piece" is the plastic tab that, when pulled, the left side will unhinge and come out.

[monarch]

Mine's a 1991 model too. Kennyr, RFeldes and Gumart1 (I'm not sure about Threadcutter) all have 1990 models where the solenoid is mounted horizontally rather than vertically as on our '91's. I am concerned that besides this mounting difference, there might also be a critical difference in the way the solenoid attaches. If so, it would be a terrible thing if those of us with '91 on up models inadvertently ruin our solenoids because we weren't aware of the different removal procedures required - especially since some say the cost of a replacement solenoid = the price of a whole new steering rack! Lets hope someone that has a '91 on up model will chip in with some hands on practical advice. You might also try to private message mehullica since he is a highly experienced Lexus dealer Mastertech.

[monarch]

Here is what my solenoid looks like on my '91 and the questions I have http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/sol.jpg

[Gumart1]

I have a 91 like you guys and yes counterclockwise is definitely the way to turn with the solenoid facing vertically, whether on your back or stomach. I just realized after reading this that perhaps I missed the entire screen during cleaning? Here is a photo of the solenoid with screen as posted by Linuxfan:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/DSCF0018

One thing that may have helped was having a warmed engine beforehand. Besides spraying the nut with liquid wrench, I did have to hit the nut with the hammer and chisel. Just find the outermost corner and give it a solid hit. I could not secure any wrench on it. I hit it with more than a "tap". If you keep your aim and control, you will break it free without any damage. Then it unturns easily by hand.

The entire solenoid came off together with the nut attached. I never even noticed a gasket. I think where I may have made a mistake was that once I removed the solenoid, I proceeded to clean the visible screen as seen in Linuxfan's photo. Is the screen further removeable and did I miss some of the screen? Others have referred to popping it out to clean? I just used brake cleaner and a soft toothbrush and every bit of dirt came clean on the thing. My steering improved drastically.

I was not able to remove the wiring from the clips as you pointed out in your photo Monarch. I tried for awhile but in the end by being careful I was able to unscrew the solenoid with the wires attached. They did get a bit twisted but never kinked and it wasn't a big issue. When I unscrewed the solenoid with nut I lost the fluid. It took it's time to drain - about 20 minutes until it stopped dripping and was about 8 ounces or so.

I have to add that if you are taking the time to do this, it is very easy to add the inline filter on the return hose of to the pump. I purchased mine from Rockauto for less than $20. It is a magnetic filter and also has a bypass in case it becomes clogged. The 2.5" x 5" footprint of the filter was a tight fit but it worked. I had to cut off my existing hose because it wouldn't budge but I purchased a couple feet of new ATF rated hose from Autozone for about $4. Even though it says 3/8" on the hose it also states the MM conversion on the hose that matched the existing one. Even without the hose clamps it was nearly impossible to attach. I put new ATF fluid inside the new hoses and on the pump's metal attachment. Even without the hose clamps, that hose will never move.