laserron

MrDownLow: Perfect download. Exactly what I needed to be able to replace my valve cover gaskets

Hi All, Have had a 93 LS400 for 3 years. Replaced the headlghts with Silverstars. They are bright!! I had to take the corner lights out and noticed they have bulbs in them but, I cannot figure out when they are supposed to come on. Neither side came on no matter what I did. If I knew when they are supposed to work I can check fuses, bulbs, wires etc. Thanks for your help. Ron

All, Been watching EBAy to find someone to fix my speedo & tach. Saw the following company and asked specifically if they fix the guages. I attached their Email rewpnse. Looks as it they can fix all the problems. They were cheap $175 compared to $400 for another company. Let me know if any of you try it. Sounds great!! Ron Hello, This repair includes testing and repairing all of the following problems: Backlight Probelms * Backlight flickering, * Backlight completely out, * Temperature-sensitive backlight. Needle Problems * Faded Needles, * Intermittant needle lighting, * If you have a needles that are broken or completely dark all the time, we can replace them for $75 per needle. Gauge Problems * Sluggish/non-working fuel gauge, * Intermittant speedometer. tachometer, temp gauge failure. Thank You, Kecia BBA Remanufacturing, Inc. 6 McCabe St South Dartmouth, MA 02748 Toll Free: (866) 573-2740 Local: (508) 997-1420 http://www.bba-reman.com

Also if the instrument cluster is removed the light can come on. Have a 93 and tried to buy the air bag sensor on Ebay. Was supposed to be for a 90 to 94. Ended up with the wrong model 89170-50011. Needed 89170-50020. The unit is for sale cheap if you can use it. Quite a job to replace. I can send you the pdf of how to replace the sensor if you need it. Ron

Hi Gene, See attached pdf. For a 93. Probablythe same as yours. Shows how to replace the timing belt from the service manual. Second page shows the tensioner. Ron eg48_timingbe.pdf

1990LS400, Thanks for the tip on the TISB. will check it out. The movement seems to unnecessary wear on the parts. We have two drivers. Going from one position to the other 2 or 3 times a week would greatly extend the life of the gears. Aside from that it is annoying. Ron

Hey akewl, Have same problem with my 93. Check out ebay. One of the instrument panel repair guys says he can fix and will guarantee for 5 years. Only catch its $450 not $150 as the teaser says. Here is the reference: Top Picks from bo268 (27) 100.0% Positive Feedback 1 items listed on eBay LEXUS LS400/430(93-06) speedometer cluster repair US $150.00 Shipping: +US $30.00 End time: Aug-19-06 17:23:11 PDT Good luck All Ron

Hi Jaxx If you sell, how much are you asking. I have 2 LS' a third would be nice. I can be there in 5 hours from ATL. Email is rasargent@hotmail.com LaserRon

Hi All, Saw in my owners manual that the dealer could reprogram something to stop the steering wheel from automatically moving upwards when the key is turned off. Also have a 93 LS. It has a switch to stop the automatic movement. Has anyone done this or heard of it being done by the Stealer! Your help is appreciated. LaserRon

Hi All, Just a word of caution before you buy the sensor. I have a 93 with the classic speedo and Tach not working problem. If you watch your odometer when the speedo is not working and it is counting up it is NOT the speed sensor. If it does not count chances are good it is the speed sensor. Still have not been able to find a repair shop for the two problems. Has anyone been successful in repairing this annoying problem?

I have a copy of the manual. Does not go to that level of detail. Tells in great detail how to test the switches. If it is one of the switches on the drivers door perhaps, you could carefully take one of the other switches apart and see where the pieces go. Good luck LaserRon

Now I'm not sure if this is corroded or not... if so, how do I clean it? Definately corroded. Probably have one light in the bulb work and not the other. Make sure the lights are off. Get some fine steel wool. "OOO" and form it into a cylinder and push it in the socket and turn as it hits bottom. Take it out look and keep working until both terminals are shiny. Be very careful to blow out all bits of steel wool or pick it out with needle nose pliers. Just blow with your mouth. Should do the trick. Bet both lights work now!!! LaserRon

Grandpa, I remembered some discussion about wiring and tail lights. Below is a copy of one response. If this does not help do a search for trunk wiring tail lights etc. Hope this is your problem. LaserRon Quoted elsewhere: A very common problem on the early LS models involves a broken wire in the wiring harness which is attached to the driver side trunk hinge. I have never heard of this problem causing the exact same thing that you are experiencing; however, it does cause numerous electrical problems which manifest themselves in strange ways. You can read the numerous posts about this problem by using the "Search" function. The wire involved is white with a black stripe. It is a ground wire. Pull the wires loose from the trunk hinge, remove some of the tape around them, and look for this particular wire. The wire may be broken. If so, repair the break by splicing a short length of new wire into it. The problem apparently occurs because this particular wire is too short. The flexing as the trunk opens and closes eventually puts enough strain on the wire to break it. Another possibility is that you have corrosion in the taillight socket. Clean all electrical contact points where the bulb mates with the socket. Another thing to try is bending the contacts at the bottom of the socket to make them fit tighter to the bulb

Locksmith is on Chamblee Dunwoody road in Chamblee. will have to look up their name. There are not too many in the yellow pages

Thanks for all your advice. do not feel so bad as this seems "normal" Just for general maintenance I will change the fluid using lexls tutorial hopefully this weekend. Also will do the 93 I have with 136 k on it using T IV fluid

Brad I to had this problem. Went to a local locksmith to get a key cut. They said they would also reprogram the car. They had two different procedures . One for the Security feature and the other for the remote door lock/unlock. The security feature programming was quick and easy. Believe they used the attached procedure. Now for the fun part. He and I tried to get the remote to work about 5 times each. Would get so far and just not work. He knew the parts manager at the local lexus dealer and suggested I go see him. Went over and told the service advisors my problem. Also mentioned I had bought the key there. One asked the other what to do and in about 2 minutes they had it reprogrammed and working. No charge for the service Trying to remember if they did anything different for the locksmith. The only thing that stands out was the smith used the automatic door lock unlock button and the dealer used the mechanical look button by the door handle. Good luck. Hope this gets you closer!! LaserRon program_98_new_key.doc

Hi All, Know about the legendary reliability of the 4 speed. What about the 5 Speed? Have a 98 with 64K miles on it. Bought it in July. All worked well. I noticed as the days got colder the car seems to stick in first gear for the first shift after startup. Seems that for any temp below 50 F the car has to rev to ~2500 RPM before it shifts out of 1st. Going to 3nd and up seems normal. The 2st time it shifts out of 1st normally. According to the previous owner the Transmission fluid was replaced just before I bought it. Should I be concerned!! Is this typical of the 5 speed when it is cold? Your expert opinions are welcome!! LaserRon

Hi, You might want to check that they are the exact replacement bulbs. I bought a 93 LS and the light bulb warning was on. Replaced three of the stop lights and it was still on. Noticed one of the high stop lights was out. Replaced it with a bulb I had laying around. The light worked but the warning was still on. Found the exact replacemnt bulb and put it in. Voila!!! the light warning went out. Good luck LaserRon

Added a picutre of the 93 elctrical Locator .Is your part in question A8, A9, or A12. A solenoid perhaps. Let me know if it helped93ls400_electrical_Locations.bmp

98_front_suspension.bmpFor all of you that have the clunk up front that seems to be coming from high up. goinf over sharp bump sounds as if the front end is falling off. IT was the spring bumper and or insulator in the attached picture. Could not diagnose it myself and did not have time or inclination Got the stealer to do it. Both sides for $725 to fix it. Took off the $190 to diagnose it. So cost me 525 extra. They replaced support assembly and strut assembly. 48680-50100 and 48510-59106. Big difference now. Quiet and smoother ride. Hope this helps all of you!!! Laserron

Finally got fed up witht the clunk. Could make it do it all the time by jumping up and down on the front bumper. Seemed to be low down by the steering rack when under the car and also seemed to be above the tire when listening from there. Car just spent two days at the stealer. Day1 phoned and could not find exactly where it was. Needed special diagnostics with microphones. Think money!! Spend several hours to find loose subframe bolts on the right side. Okay great!! When to pick it up and Whoops still clunks. Picture a 50+ year old man jumping on his front bumer in the service bay so they could ALL hear the noise. Their expert was out that day. Next day (today) Called back with the latest news Upper strut bushings and struts. Sounds possible. Will pick it up tomorrow and we shall see. On the good side: diagnostic fee taken off the strut and bushing price. Wish me luck!!!!

Sound is LOUD and seems to be getting LOUDER. No on all bumps but on the sharper ones. I had my son jump on the front bumper while I listened. Seemed to be low down around the steering box area. Seemed to go from drivers side to passenger side. Also seemed to be from upper control arm on drivers side. Could have been noise coming up from the bottom though. Will check the lower streering shaft by grabbing and wiggling it. Thanks for the idea!!

Both corners are doing it. Just went out a few minutes ago. Hard to tell but the clunk seemed to be high up on drivers side. Another possible clue. Had it in for a tire rotation. Seemed as if the alignment was off after that. Left side of steering wheel down noticably. since been realigned and seems to be holding. Good idea will check upper strut bolts No squeaks like sway bar bushings. Much more meatier noise. Thanks

Hi All, Need some expert advise here. Have a 1998 LS400 with 62000 miles on it. Bought it in July this year. The seller had the 110 point lexus inspection done on it. Showed it need strut bars. Going in my driveway heard the rattle / thump. Replaced the 2 bars and did an alignment. All was guiet again. 4 weeks ago a clunk showed up on left front. Did some diagnostics to see movement in the lower ball joint and a sound almost like the clunk when I spread the ball joint. Great. Replaced the ball joint and realigned again. Well guys the clunk / thunk is still there. Hear it occassionally on both driver and passenger side. Did not feel any movement on the upper control arm Surely the struts are not worn out over 4000 miles or so?? ANY ideas suggestions to find out what it really is or how to find it would be appreciated. I am fairly mechanically adept and would be willing to try whatever you suggest to dty to find/fix it. Thanks for your help!!!!

I have the electrical diagram for the 93. Attached the only sheet that mentions the fuel pump and ECU. Hope this is usefull to you