Simply The Best

[ko90ls]

just a thought.......

tomarrow i'm going to change my oil and already have oil but i was just wondering which brand is the best?

common sense would say toyota/lexus but if that's the case i don't have common sense because i use the quaker state advanced engine full syn. on the back of the bottle it says "10 yr/ 250,000mi warranty even if you change your own oil" but i know that is a marketing scheme to get people to keep using the product, but i was just wondering if anyone uses different oil and how good it protects the engine. does it burn easy or cause blue smoke, is the acceleration brisk and smooth, how long until you add more or change the oil and what type of driving is performed with the car: heavy freeway, light freeway, heavy street, light street, or a mix?

me, i use the Q full syn advanced engine, with a mix of heavy freeway and light street and needs about two months before adding oil(1qt) and 3 before a oil change. but with the new oil the acc is super smooth and the tach seems like it will never stop, w/o ect pwr. the engine also seems more stable at high speeds(less vibration) and the oil may burn but it resists turning black

just wanted to know what fellow LS owners use because i realize that there is vast knowledge and expirence shared between members

any feedback is appreciated

[nc211]

I switched from normal oil to Mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic about 6k miles ago. Love the stuff! Does what your's does to the engine's performance as well. Great stuff. I change oil every 3,000 miles no matter what. Walmart has the BEST deals for oils changes. $34 for full on synthetic changes, with whatever oil you want off the shelf. Try that at any Jiffy Lube type shop. They charge $70 for synthetic, and only offer Penzoil brand.

[oohryry]

I switched to Valvoline Full Synthetic once my dash started saying Low Engine Oil Pressure. Now I can run it for about 2800 miles before the dash starts to display that again. To me it seems my engine is very hot. Even when I go to check my oil level, the dipstick is so hot I have to pull it up with a napkin attached. I assume it's from all the covering on the hood and under the car that keeps the inside so hot. I believe my engine needs more air, because when I cut it off and come back a while later, it's still hot. So I switched to Valvoline Full Synthetic to hope it could handle the heat because I don't want sludge taking my engine. I know Toyota and Lexus has an 8 year warranty for sludge on a lot of their models, but I didn't see the LS400 on that list. I'd better check with them because eight years will be next year for mine.

[SW03ES]

My question is why do you need to add a quart of oil every 2 months?

[nc211]

My question is why do you need to add a quart of oil every 2 months?

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Yeah, what gives with that?

Either you're running the snot out of that engine, burning up oil, or you've got a leak somewhere.

[ko90ls]

it's beacuse my foot is pretty heavy and i do a lot of freeway driving!? i drive 7 miles a day just to work the 7 more home, plus all the driving after work.... man. and this gas price is killing me! i know i need to calm down but i'm young with a LS. :whistles: and plus with a car this size everyone wants to ride to the load is normally high (ladies). that's just my thoughts, honestly this is my first car so i will be the first to admit that i know almost nothing about cars, that's why i brought this up :D so back to you, what kind of oil do you use

P.S. i also add Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer but i will change to the other lucas oil product

[SKperformance]

Moving this to the general maintance section where there is also a huge OIL thread.

[ko90ls]

hey after reading some of the sticky's about engine oil i'm begining to think that it's the Lucas bull crap that may be the thorn in my side.... i'll keep reading and keep posting

[ko90ls]

i like this forum, everyone knows just what you need when you ask!

i think i know why my oil was burning. that lucas stuff. its %100 petro. the good stuff..... good for the short term. after reading that i know what my mistake was. gonna stick to the full syn juice. keep that 1uz-fe goin!

[Lexusfreak]

Amsoil is 'simply the best' synthetic. :whistles: B)

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/amsoil_vs_mobil1.aspx

[jeremyquinn]

hey after reading some of the sticky's about engine oil i'm begining to think that it's the Lucas bull crap that may be the thorn in my side.... i'll keep reading and keep posting

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umm....i don't think I'd be using Lucas if I were you...I know you are trying to do good, but you are probably causing more harm than good....very comprehensive study done here....post on this forum also and get the gear head prospective...they hate this stuff

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

[SKperformance]

amsoil is not the best just better than off the shelf mobil 1

[Lexusfreak]

amsoil is not the best just better than off the shelf  mobil 1

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And the best would be what then sk? :whistles:

[mburnickas]

Amsoil is 'simply the best' synthetic.  :whistles:    B) 

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/amsoil_vs_mobil1.aspx 

 

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Well, I thought I would add my input for what it is worth.

#1) lets see some oil test here since all I see are oil names with nothing to back it up. Not saying you guys are wrong but lets see the numbers here.

#2) So far a lot of the oils named are lacking n several areas.

I could go on and on, but when someone does post some oils UOA, or an oil that is higher the 3.5 in HTHS, over 3,000 ppm of Ca, and over 1100 to 1200 of ZDDP, lets talk here.

Oh, I also wanta VI over 180 please and no ash either. Also I high TBN over 11.5 to.

I have some oil tests on my auto online. Also just did another longer drain and sending the test out tomorrow. So far, I spend a WHOPPING $50 for my group 4/5 oil changed and that INCLUDES the OIL TEST. I change my oil from 11, to 12K+ miles; anything less would be flat out crazy in my eyes. These longer drains only happen with a group 4/5 oil too so do not try it with your walfart oils.

To date, I have YET to find a better oil for the dollar then Amsoil. Show me a better oil that performs better, with all integral performace, and I will switch. Not saying Amsoil is the best hands down, but for the longevity, performance, protection, benefits etc, it wins.

[mburnickas]

I switched to Valvoline Full Synthetic once my dash started saying Low Engine Oil Pressure.  Now I can run it for about 2800 miles before the dash starts to display that again.  To me it seems my engine is very hot.  Even when I go to check my oil level, the dipstick is so hot I have to pull it up with a napkin attached.  I assume it's from all the covering on the hood and under the car that keeps the inside so hot.  I believe my engine needs more air, because when I cut it off and come back a while later, it's still hot.  So I switched to Valvoline Full Synthetic to hope it could handle the heat because I don't want sludge taking my engine.  I know Toyota and Lexus has an 8 year warranty for sludge on a lot of their models, but I didn't see the LS400 on that list.  I'd better check with them because eight years will be next year for mine.

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I hope you do not think Valvoline Full Synthetic (SynPower) is a real synthetic because it is not.

[SKperformance]

As mb stated for the $ it may be the best weighted option.

But there are alot of high end synthetics and blends which are more expensive race bred oils like Motul redline

[mburnickas]

As mb stated for the $ it may be the best weighted option.

But there are alot of high end synthetics and blends which are more expensive race bred oils like Motul redline

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Correct, some are like Redline, NEO, Silkolene, Motul, Maxima etc.

Most of these are a lot more then Amsoil and most race oils have moly in it, which over time, is bad.

If you look at the UOA, you will see which are good or not.

Blends to me are not in the picture since there are blends, not true synthetics.

[Lexusfreak]

As mb stated for the $ it may be the best weighted option.

But there are alot of high end synthetics and blends which are more expensive race bred oils like Motul redline

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Correct, some are like Redline, NEO, Silkolene, Motul, Maxima etc.

Most of these are a lot more then Amsoil and most race oils have moly in it, which over time, is bad.

If you look at the UOA, you will see which are good or not.

Blends to me are not in the picture since there are blends, not true synthetics.

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Fair enough, but dosen't Amsoil have their own 'race' oils? ;)

[mburnickas]

fair enough, but dosen't Amsoil have their own 'race' oils?  ;)

 

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Yes and there race oil have a different basestock in there; plus no moly or very very little (below 10 ppm). In my eyes moly is as bad as ash in the oil.

I would have to look at there borates also and what esters they uses.

I know for a fact that Motul uses ester based which are less expensive, lower viscosity, di-basic acid esters, ie diesters. Amsoil did use these diesters from 1972 until about 1980, when they went to the blended PAO/Ester basestocks.

I can go one and on about esters.

[monarch]

Here are two realities about synthetic oil:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/syna.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/synb.jpg

[Lexusfreak]

You personally tested each & every car in that junk yard I take it monarch for synthetic oil huh? Knew each & every owner & how they drove the cars? :whistles:

[mburnickas]

Here are two realities about synthetic oil:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/syna.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/synb.jpg

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I am not going to go through this with you for yet another time. Talk about a broken record here.

As I have stated before these pictures are worthless. The data (information) is just screaming from these pictures. :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot:

[mburnickas]

You personally tested each & every car in that junk yard I take it monarch for synthetic oil huh?  Knew each & every owner & how they drove the cars?            :whistles:

 

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I know...Anyone that still thinks dino oil surpasses synthetic is about, let’s see, 40 years behind the times...I

Oh, wait till Lexus goes all synthetic and then watch how fast his tune changes.

[ko90ls]

so pretty much the basic theory is that oil additives suck and amsoil is the best?

great got it, but what about oil leaks from unknown sources(for now). the leak is pretty bad but doesn't appear on the ground(no belly pan) but my two main oxygen sensors are toast. does amsoil make full syn w/ stop leak, or would the mobil1 be the best alternative?

[mburnickas]

so pretty much the basic theory is that oil additives suck and amsoil is the best?

great got it, but what about oil leaks from unknown sources(for now). the leak is pretty bad but doesn't appear on the ground(no belly pan) but my two main oxygen sensors are toast. does amsoil make full syn w/ stop leak, or would the mobil1 be the best alternative?

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Well, oil additives (adds) are a scam at best. All the adds you need are in the oil already. They have the emulsifiers, dispersants, anti-wear and Extreme Pressure additives, detergents, demulsifier, friction modifiers or friction reducers, rust inhibitor,seal swellers, soot control etc. (man this is getting tired). :)

There are other oils; that being stated, I feel, that they [amsoil] are the best bang for the dollar. If you are racing you would love Redline and they like 200+ moly. Or there 25%-35% polyol-ester and 65%-75% PAO. It is a good oil, but again, I would not use it for long drains. Again, there are more but the price can go from $4 per qt to over $12 per qt.

Also I do not think any synthetic (group 4 or 5) make an oil with an stop leak. I personally think I would stop the leak before adding a better oil. If not a good oil, fix the leak.