$115/hr Dealer Suspension Inspection

[Gumart1]

Here in the Chicago the Dealers recently increased their labor rates to $115 an hour. I want to have my suspension components inspected in detail. I only what to replace what is really needed at this time. I suppose that is not so easy to decide knowing that just because it doesn't make noise now doesn't mean it isn't worn. I just don't want to replace expensive items like control arms if not needed.

Is the Dealer really the expert opinion here? I understand they know this car better than anyone, but I know it is possible that the Dealer will recommend something and it doesn't guarantee to fix the problem. Plus they may just "recommend" replacing more than what's needed to ensure the problem is fixed.

Places like Sears and Firestone and Midas will inspect for free and for kicks I had Firestone look at it and the jerk didn't even remove the wheels and claimed it just needed struts (probably because that's all they sold!) Sears charges $15 to inspect brakes but the suspension inspection is free so I know they wouldn't do any detail inspecting. I can't find a local shop that specializes in suspension - that would be nice.

I can follow tutorials fairly well and I have a good pair of ramps and jack stands. Would it be over my head to inspect all the components myself?

[sha4000]

you dont need to take your car to the dealer to get a goo inspection of your suspensio components. while its true that they will know the most about your car they will definitely give you a laundry list of neede rapairs some of this will be needed but alot of it would be manufacturers recommended change periods. now that doesnt mean its no good but the manufacturer says it should be changed at a certain time and thats what the dealer will tell you needs to be done.if you know a good and REPUTABLE repair shop get them to inpect. if you know what kind of damage to look for you can jack the ar up real high & inspect yourself

[nc211]

Gumart, it is not beyond your scope at all to inspect the parts yourself! I think the best place to start is post the problems you're having. I have found, as I'm sure you know, this site is far better at pin-pointing problems than a dealership. I agree with Sha 110%! I can't make it out of the dealership for under $135, no matter what. When I bought mine at 84k miles back in May, 04' they said it would be CPO if it weren't for the age. What a bunch of B.S! $3,500 later, now she's worthy of CPO status.

Are you hearing clunks, clicks, squeeks? Rough ride? Wandering, that sort of stuff?

[blake918]

Marty, don't pay the dealer to do the inspection. It's very easy to do since you are mainly looking for cracked bushings. Drive your car up on the ramps, crawl under there with a bright flashlight, and you'll be able to inspect just about all of the most troublesome suspension componets. ;)

[Gumart1]

Thanks for all the support guys! That's what I was hoping to hear. This weekend I will jack the car up on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Lexls just added some awesome tutorials on shock and ball joint and control arm replacement so I will use the photos as a guide. Not sure where all the bushings are, but I am especially unsure of how to move or test each part and understand how much movement or wear is "normal".

My symptoms are hard to describe. The front corners of the car return quickly when I push down, without bounce, so I know the struts are not toast, but the general ride is not like an LS should be, I can feel all the bumps, unless I am expecting too much here.

I have test driven earlier models with the loud clunk at slow speeds backing out of driveways (stabilizer bushings?). I don't have that exactly, but the biggest noise and movement occurs randomly at speeds lower than 30 and especially when slowing down. If I am approaching a stoplight and the car hits a bump, the wheels make a sudden loud noise and the bump feels like I just hit a curb. If there is one bump to the left or right tire alone, the wheels feel like they want to jump off of the car sideways if that makes sense. It feels like the wheels are getting ahead of the car? Or maybe that's how I envision it. But they seem to lose control on big bumps while stopping. I know from the forum that stabilizer bar bushings are very common, as well as lower ball joints. What about control arms and tie rod ends, what exactly is their purpose? And if hood struts seem to go out on these cars, wouldn't the shocks go out too just from age and weight? Where do I start?

[blake918]

Start with the strut rods. Before I had mine replaced, I would get a loud bang/clunk when I would slam on the brakes or hit a pot hole. The wheels feeling like they are getting ahead of the car is a sign of bad strut rod bushings. It's not your imagination because the wheels are actually still moving some. Pull next to a car that has decently reflective paint, and creep along at like 2mph. Slam on the brakes, and you will see some play in your wheels. I would start with the strut rods, and then, take it from there.

I had the aces at JP Importz replace mine for a very reasonable price...I want to say about $600+/-...it's a small price to pay for silence! :D

[SW03ES]

All the dealer is the expert on is seperating you from your money. Find a good independent mechanic you trust and let them do it.

[nc211]

Gumart, your question is the same one I asked a year and a half ago, which led me to all the suspension replacements in my signature. I clearly went overboard as I'm sure not all of those parts were bad, but I just decided to hit the whole thing at once and be done with it....or so I thought. I posted up a thread yesterday about the stabalizer bar links going bad. I have a wierd symptom as well, even with all of those new parts. I too feel the bumps pretty badly, and I get a slight wandering when turning at slow speeds, like the car is pushing wide. Last night when I got home I put my hand on the back of the bolts on those links to check them.....The bolts are almost complete backed out, with maybe 1 mm of thread holding them on! The stabalizer bar is essentially barely effective. There is about a 3/4 inch gap of space between the actuall bar and the rubber housing of the link. This is my fault, I now remember not tightening down those bolts. Long story short, check those bolts too and make sure that component is tight at 70lb of torque. I'm heading to the shop today to have them cranked down and I'll post up my results later.

I had the clunk and banging too and replaced the strut rods first. That did not fix it for me. Mine was the lower control arm. After replacing I inspected the old part, and it was cracked, torn up and rotten.

[morg96ls400]

Just went into the dealership today to get a flat repaired (valve stem damage due to rim ) and had them inspect all the bushings on the suspension to see what they could find. The left rear carrier bushing was torn so they replaced that ($260) but they absorbed the inspection labor time ($60) since I did it that same day. The job took about 2 hrs so they gave me a loaner-Rx330, and I took my wife to get her hair done and drooled over tools at sears until they called me saying it was ready. B)

Overall experience with dealer-you pay a premium, but sometimes its worth it, especially for inspection/special equipment jobs. All other bushings are O.K. just need to work on pinpointing the "putting a metal lid on a pot" noise when shifting into R or D from P. <_<

[ko90ls]

pssssssssssssss!

you know what i found out. go to the local dealer but talk to the parts department! do, i mean do not go to the service department! the parts department is just as knowledgable (LEXUS certified) but will be much more willing to help you out! they should help you diagnose the problem just by explaining it to them. trust, they've heard a million problems just like yours and they don't do any service so their advise will be less $$$$$ driven

[ko90ls]

morq,

you said you were having problem shifting from P to D or R? did you hear a loud clunk and then the car lurch forward and if it's eager to get rolling? that's the problem on mine but i suspect it's the super old tranny fluid, but if that worked for it might also work for me :) congrats on the resolved issue!

[morg96ls400]

morq,

you said you were having problem shifting from P to D or R? did you hear a loud clunk and then the car lurch forward and if it's eager to get rolling? that's the problem on mine but i suspect it's the super old tranny fluid, but if that worked for it might also work for me :)  congrats on the resolved issue!

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After a few cold startups, the problem looks like it has gone away, only a slightly audible noise when shifting from P to R or D, and lurch is almost completely gone. Whoever works on your car ask them to inspect this rear carrier bushing for tears/deterioration.

If tranny fluid is bad you will usually notice symptoms when you are driving too, not just manually switching gears.

Good luck!

[SW03ES]

Overall experience with dealer-you pay a premium, but sometimes its worth it, especially for inspection/special equipment jobs.

Thats how I feel about it. Is the service overpriced? Sure but the dealerships are nice, I like my service guy, I get a nice loaner and I'm not hurting for the money so as much as I always tell myself not to I always wind up back at the dealer.