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Oem Subwoofer Is Driving Me Mad!


1991LS400

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Hey guys,

I have a 1991 Lexus LS 400 (many of you probably already know) and I cannot even attempt to play any music even a tad bit loud in my car because of my buzzing subwoofer! I know all the paper is broken off of it and the speaker just buzzes LOUD when playing any music with any type of bass in it.

I know it's an 8" subwoofer that came in these 1st Gen LS 400's so do I have to get an 8" replacement from Lexus or Toyota or can I get any 8" car subwoofer? I found this one on E-Bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5786104407&rd=1

Would it work? And if I HAVE to get a factory subwoofer are they expensive and will it come with that crappy paper cup around it that will just break off with time? I don't know why my subwoofer can't take any bass anymore and just buzzes everytime a bass sound from a CD kicks in. Hopefully someone can help me.

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Searching this forum for "subwoofer" gets quite a few hits. Here is an old thread about someone replacing his 90 LS subwoofer with a 10" Kicker subwoofer: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...97&hl=subwoofer

And here is one of many places where you can buy Kicker products: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QYhs4mtfEbB/c...icker+subwoofer

There are likely a lot of other brands that would work too.

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If you buy a high-powered woofer like the one linked, Your amp won't drive it. The one in the Lexus is 2 ohm, and about 40 watts. Refer to ohms law, then try to find a woofer more compatible. 2 ohm, low power subs are hard to find. You'll get by with a 4 ohm, 50 watt or less. Some can wired in series or parallel, called "dual", and that's what I put in my '90 LS. An Audiobahn dual 4 ohm. Google Audiobahn for links to Ohms Law, and explanations of running duals in series or parallel to get 2 ohm balance.

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If you buy a high-powered woofer like the one linked, Your amp won't drive it. The one in the Lexus is 2 ohm, and about 40 watts. Refer to ohms law, then try to find a woofer more compatible. 2 ohm, low power subs are hard to find. You'll get by with a 4 ohm, 50 watt or less. Some can wired in series or parallel, called "dual", and that's what I put in my '90 LS. An Audiobahn dual 4 ohm. Google Audiobahn for links to Ohms Law, and explanations of running duals in series or parallel to get 2 ohm balance.

I SORT OF understand what you're saying, however, on that link that was sent to me before your post I saw a Kicker 10" subwoofer with the following description:

Kicker Comp VR 05CVR102 10" Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil Component Sub

Dual 2-ohm voice coils • polymineral cone • foam-ribbed rubber surround • 50-300W RMS total power range • 25-500 Hz frequency response

It's a 2 ohm that ranges between 50-300W, will that work??? Please help.

At this point in time, I really just want to replace the dang thing so I can turn my music up without having to hear buzzing from the old subwoofer in my 91 LS 400. And I want something that will be easy for me to wire back in with whatever is currently on my LS 400 right now. I don't want to have to alter anything. Thanks.

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Kicker Comp VR 05CVR102 10" Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil Component Sub

Dual 2-ohm voice coils • polymineral cone • foam-ribbed rubber surround • 50-300W RMS total power range • 25-500 Hz frequency response

It's a 2 ohm that ranges between 50-300W, will that work??? Please help.

It will work, but the volume level will be lower than the rest of the speakers. You could try to find one somewhere that allows returns, plug it in, and see if it meets your approval. In the meantime, unplug the torn sub. you can unplug it at the amp or the speaker. Then , at least, the buzzing will stop.

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Kicker Comp VR 05CVR102  10" Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil Component Sub 

Dual 2-ohm voice coils • polymineral cone • foam-ribbed rubber surround • 50-300W RMS total power range • 25-500 Hz frequency response

It's a 2 ohm that ranges between 50-300W, will that work???  Please help.

It will work, but the volume level will be lower than the rest of the speakers. You could try to find one somewhere that allows returns, plug it in, and see if it meets your approval. In the meantime, unplug the torn sub. you can unplug it at the amp or the speaker. Then , at least, the buzzing will stop.

How do I unplug the torn sub? And will there still be any sort of bass coming through my speakers when I play any music in my car? When my speakers are up I can still hear fairly good bass but it doesn't seem like it's coming from my sub because that thing is just buzzing like it can't do anything. Does bass come out of any of my other speakers?

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Kicker Comp VR 05CVR102  10" Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil

How do I unplug the torn sub? And will there still be any sort of bass coming through my speakers when I play any music in my car? When my speakers are up I can still hear fairly good bass but it doesn't seem like it's coming from my sub because that thing is just buzzing like it can't do anything. Does bass come out of any of my other speakers?

The easiest way is to remove the cover in the back of the trunk and unplug the sub. Follow the wires out of the sub to the first plastic connector. The amp is on the left side of the trunk-back, looking to the front of car. At least that's where mine is, a Pioneer.

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Kicker Comp VR 05CVR102  10" Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil

How do I unplug the torn sub? And will there still be any sort of bass coming through my speakers when I play any music in my car? When my speakers are up I can still hear fairly good bass but it doesn't seem like it's coming from my sub because that thing is just buzzing like it can't do anything. Does bass come out of any of my other speakers?

The easiest way is to remove the cover in the back of the trunk and unplug the sub. Follow the wires out of the sub to the first plastic connector. The amp is on the left side of the trunk-back, looking to the front of car. At least that's where mine is, a Pioneer.

Best fix for this--remove your sub-rear grill just pulls up from edge closest to seat back-undo screws-unplug sub-mail it to "totalrecoil.com"see their web site for address in Melbourne Australia-they rebuild it for about $90AUD approx $70 US works better than new- tightest bass youll hear . stereo works just the same without it-just no low bass. Replacing with other subs is not very good-wrong impedence and frame size is unique to Lexus.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Kicker Comp VR 05CVR102  10" Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil Component Sub  

Dual 2-ohm voice coils • polymineral cone • foam-ribbed rubber surround • 50-300W RMS total power range • 25-500 Hz frequency response

It's a 2 ohm that ranges between 50-300W, will that work???  Please help.

It will work, but the volume level will be lower than the rest of the speakers. You could try to find one somewhere that allows returns, plug it in, and see if it meets your approval. In the meantime, unplug the torn sub. you can unplug it at the amp or the speaker. Then , at least, the buzzing will stop.

How do I unplug the torn sub? And will there still be any sort of bass coming through my speakers when I play any music in my car? When my speakers are up I can still hear fairly good bass but it doesn't seem like it's coming from my sub because that thing is just buzzing like it can't do anything. Does bass come out of any of my other speakers?

I found a 10" sub for $29.99 US at PepBoys with the following specs

4ohm, 20-125w RMS power, 87db sensitivity, 375 peak power, 28-180 freq range.

Will this one produce more volume than the Kicker model quoted above because of its lower power range?

lexls has a good tutorial on replacing subwoofers: Lexls.com

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Perhaps I can help. I had a 91 when the cone let loose. I stopped at J&J Speaker Repair and Reconing Service at 7006 W. DIversey in CHicago. The phone number is 773 889 3498. I thought that the speaker was a lost cause but they repaired it for me and it waws like new. The cost was nominal - perhaps $50. I believe they also ship UPS.

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Grand, no I have not heard of this! Please explain! That sounds really cool!! I like hidden menus!

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Grand, no I have not heard of this! Please explain! That sounds really cool!! I like hidden menus!

DON’T WE ALL?? :D

Ok, I’ve only tested it on my 98, so test on your 95, and report back.... Here is what you do:

(NOTE: If you have a 98+, make sure your ASL is on before you do this.)

• To get into the settings you need to press the CD button 3 times WHILE holding down buttons 1 AND 6.

• Once the diagnostics auto test completes, press and hold the AM button for 5 second until it beeps.

• The display will now show “Audio”

• The TAPE button toggles through F, R and W for Front, Rear and Woofer. The UP DOWN button can set these from 0 to -80 dBs.

• The FM button toggles between P1, P2 and L, where P1 and P2 are equalizer frequency settings and L is the overall level from 0 to -20 dBs. I haven’t figure out what the equalizer setting do exactly.

• The setting appears to be non volatile so switching the ignition off keeps the values.

No need to worry about messing it up, because you can default back to the stock setting by going back to 0's for all values. If you unplug your battery, you will have to re-collaborate it again. Also, you have to turn your Ignition off then back on to restart the headunit to be able to go back.

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Dude, sweeeet!!! I'll check it out tonight! The fiance' is going home for the night, so I get to have a few brews and tinker with the car....nag-free! :cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:

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Perhaps I can help. I had a 91 when the cone let loose. I stopped at J&J Speaker Repair and Reconing Service at 7006 W. DIversey in CHicago. The phone number is 773 889 3498. I thought that the speaker was a lost cause but they repaired it for me and it waws like new. The cost was nominal - perhaps $50. I believe they also ship UPS.

Thanks, I'll check them out but I'd still like to know if the speaker I found at PepBoys will suffice. I'm okay with cutting the original up for the mounting bracket if necessary.

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