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One Year Later...


blake918

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Is your "wool looking thing" actually wool fiber or is it synthetic?

Wool is too harsh on most automotive paints.  Unless, the car has been repainted with an Imron 5000 or something like that.

Your wool looking thing should be made of synthetic fiber for most automotive compounding work.  Foam pads from 3M work well for the final glaze step.

Tom

its synthetic, it just looks like sheepskin.

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Man, you've got it all wrong.

NEVER remove product with a rotary. A rotary is meant to remove tough defects, using it on the paint to remove product does nothing but risk burning and marring the paint. Thats a serious, serious no no. You would want to work product in with the rotary and FOAM pads (wool is THE most aggressive pad you can use, also the most dangerous). Product can be removed by hand with MF towel or with an MF or terry bonnet on the orbital, but NEVER with wool and NEVER with a rotary. I can't stress that enough, thats completely incorrect use.

Please, please don't attempt to use that again unless you have a true handle on how to use it and have proper pads for it. You could seriously damage someone's car, if you do then you're left on the stick to repair it.

Stop by www.autopia.org and go to the "Machine Polishing" forum. There's a long thread in there about how to properly use a rotary.

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Man, you've got it all wrong.

NEVER remove product with a rotary. A rotary is meant to remove tough defects, using it on the paint to remove product does nothing but risk burning and marring the paint. Thats a serious, serious no no. You would want to work product in with the rotary and FOAM pads (wool is THE most aggressive pad you can use, also the most dangerous). Product can be removed by hand with MF towel or with an MF or terry bonnet on the rotary, but NEVER with wool and NEVER with a rotary. I can't stress that enough, thats completely incorrect use.

Please, please don't attempt to use that again unless you have a true handle on how to use it and have proper pads for it. You could seriously damage someone's car, if you do then you're left on the stick to repair it.

Stop by www.autopia.org and go to the "Machine Polishing" forum. There's a long thread in there about how to properly use a rotary.

every car i have ever used it on has come out looking fantastic, but i will take that into consideration.

i dont have the correct pads, so i wont be using the rotary, fair enough?

FWIW, i used it hundreds of times on my contour, came out great, and i used it to remove the product, applied by hand and removed by rotary.

I used it on other peoples cars when i had the correct pads. mine have worn out.

i told you, im not unskilled or inexperienced, i do know what im doing. but ill leave this be. i dont think i will need it anyways, there are other methods of dealing with this...you will see.

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Honestly, you've gotten lucky. Aside from the rotary not actually doing anything to the paint when removing product, the risk is huge that it will burn through the paint. You also don't know how much paint you've removed by using the rotary in this way.

Polishes work when they're APPLIED not when they're removed. By the time the product is ready to be removed all the abrasives have (or should have been) broken down and all thats left is byproduct. This you can just wipe off. Using the rotary onn a surface with no product is seriously, seriously incorrect.

Please, go to Autopia and read the threads I directed you too. What you're telling me is akin to me telling you "I sand down the rough cut wood with sandpaper, then I finish up with my belt sander" you've got it backwards. The belt sander is akin to the rotary, its designed to knock off the big edges and make the wood take shape. The sandpaper is like the orbital, its used to clean up any scarring by the belt sander/rotary and to make the surface look perfect.

If you need another analogy, its like saying "I started sanding with 300 grit (super fine) sandpaper, then finished with 40 grit". The steps are reversed.

Think about it this way:

Which is more powerful a tool, the orbital or the rotary? When finishing things it makes no sense to use the more powerful tool to finish a job started by the least powerful right?

Its nothing against you at all, but if you are using the rotary in this way is not a sign of skill or experience. Thats totally improper use and you can damage people's cars to where they'll need thousands of dollars of repair work. Again, its nothing about you, I don't use a rotary because they're too dangerous.

Thats so totally wrong though I can't even get by it, please be smart. Learn from people that know what they're doing, go to Autopia and read what they have to say.

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Honestly, you've gotten lucky. Aside from the rotary not actually doing anything to the paint when removing product, the risk is huge that it will burn through the paint. You also don't know how much paint you've removed by using the rotary in this way.

Polishes work when they're APPLIED not when they're removed. By the time the product is ready to be removed all the abrasives have (or should have been) broken down and all thats left is byproduct. This you can just wipe off. Using the rotary onn a surface with no product is seriously, seriously incorrect.

Please, go to Autopia and read the threads I directed you too. What you're telling me is akin to me telling you "I sand down the rough cut wood with sandpaper, then I finish up with my belt sander" you've got it backwards. The belt sander is akin to the rotary, its designed to knock off the big edges and make the wood take shape. The sandpaper is like the orbital, its used to clean up any scarring by the belt sander/rotary and to make the surface look perfect.

If you need another analogy, its like saying "I started sanding with 300 grit (super fine) sandpaper, then finished with 40 grit". The steps are reversed.

Think about it this way:

Which is more powerful a tool, the orbital or the rotary? When finishing things it makes no sense to use the more powerful tool to finish a job started by the least powerful right?

Its nothing against you at all, but if you are using the rotary in this way is not a sign of skill or experience. Thats totally improper use and you can damage people's cars to where they'll need thousands of dollars of repair work. Again, its nothing about you, I don't use a rotary because they're too dangerous.

Thats so totally wrong though I can't even get by it, please be smart. Learn from people that know what they're doing, go to Autopia and read what they have to say.

thats the way my dad taught me to use it. sorry for getting people panties all up in a bunch.

did you not hear me say i had appplicator pads for the last time i used it? i use it to apply as well as remove when i use it, this would be the first time i havent used it for both.

WTF is the synthetic bonnet for if not to remove the product? you CERTAINLY cannot apply the product with it...

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Nothing against your Dad, but he's wrong. Thats not at all how that tool is supposed to be used. Its not a situation of people's panties being in a bunch, when you take responsibility for the condition of other people's vehicles you have a responsibility to make sure you know what you're doing.

Like I said in the PM, they include LOTS of things with these buffers that you shouldn't use. The PC for example comes with a terrible pad. Please, do yourself a favor and go over to Autopia and read what the members there have posted on the subject. More info than you'd ever need, written by professionals and hobbiests that have more experience detailing than either of us have living.

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Nothing against your Dad, but he's wrong. Thats not at all how that tool is supposed to be used. Its not a situation of people's panties being in a bunch, when you take responsibility for the condition of other people's vehicles you have a responsibility to make sure you know what you're doing.

Like I said in the PM, they include LOTS of things with these buffers that you shouldn't use. The PC for example comes with a terrible pad. Please, do yourself a favor and go over to Autopia and read what the members there have posted on the subject. More info than you'd ever need, written by professionals and hobbiests that have more experience detailing than either of us have living.

ok i will do that. meantime, the pads i have wont do, they were decent, but they are noi longer worth anything. so blakes car will not get the rotary treatment at all. can we drop the discussion? i will go read up on it.

the point of this is, i know what im doing with it for the most part. i wasnt aware you werent supposed to remove the wax with the synthetic bonnet. im not rotary stupid. i can do some amazing things for my customers and i have, but only with the proper pads.

i dont detail as many cars as you do, so i dont use it as often on customers cars. but i use it frequently on all cars in my family, when i have good pads.

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Just please, be careful with it.

You don't HAVE to use any machine to remove the wax once its dried, using the orbital with a terry or MF bonnet to remove the wax is your personal preference but it doesn't add anything. I usually just remove by hand.

No need to get defensive, you've got to be open to advice and criticisms thats why we're all here. There are several aspects of cars and mechanics that you are obviously more adept at than me, and several aspects that I am more adept at than you. When I see you or others making mistakes and doing things improperly I feel that its my responsibility to point you in the right direction, just as I would expect you to do for me if I were trying to tear down my engine and was doing something completely wrong.

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Just please, be careful with it.

You don't HAVE to use any machine to remove the wax once its dried, using the orbital with a terry or MF bonnet to remove the wax is your personal preference but it doesn't add anything. I usually just remove by hand.

No need to get defensive, you've got to be open to advice and criticisms thats why we're all here. There are several aspects of cars and mechanics that you are obviously more adept at than me, and several aspects that I am more adept at than you. When I see you or others making mistakes and doing things improperly I feel that its my responsibility to point you in the right direction, just as I would expect you to do for me if I were trying to tear down my engine and was doing something completely wrong.

Man, we are cool, steve B) , i was trying my best not to be defensive. i appreciate the info and i had no idea about alot of the things in the autopia site. thanks! you were being as tactful as possible (i can be quite thickheaded sometimes) and i appreciate it.

:)

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Wooh, talk about a heist! j/k :lol::lol:

Blake you definitely have a beautiful car and I love your pictures, very nice.  Seeing your car is actually quite inspirational because it's in such great shape and doesn't at all reflect 250k miles of use (an accomplishment in it's own).  Makes me want to forget about getting a CPO GS and just getting an older LS, hehe  :D .  Keep up the good work and go LS!  B)

Ooo, my ears are burning! lol Thanks! :D I wouldn't forget about the GS; after having one as a loaner, I was in love! It was so smooth but sporty at the same time. I just wouldn't get the I6 because in typical Lexus 6cyl fashion, it's a snoozer off the line. I was actually suprised because it had VVt-i it didn't seem to help any; I timed my ES the other day 0-40 in about 5 seconds. ::yawns:: :lol:

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I forgot to mention this, but this is a mod I'd really like. I'd have a body shop close in the front turn signals and paint to match the grey cladding, and just move that signal light to the parking light(which is really ugly at night) next to the headlight. I never did care for the styling of these blinkers.

Here's a crappy rendition in Paint. Just don't sit too close to your monitor, and the colors will blend. I think it really cleans the front end up and takes about 5 years off. What do yall think?

gallery_1461_84_1111635441.jpg

gallery_1461_84_1111635423.jpg

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I forgot to mention this, but this is a mod I'd really like. I'd have a body shop close in the front turn signals and paint to match the grey cladding, and just move that signal light to the parking light(which is really ugly at night) next to the headlight. I never did care for the styling of these blinkers.

Here's a crappy rendition in Paint. Just don't sit too close to your monitor, and the colors will blend. I think it really cleans the front end up and takes about 5 years off. What do yall think?

gallery_1461_84_1111635441.jpg

gallery_1461_84_1111635423.jpg

dude...DEFINATELY.

B)

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Yeah...I like that.

Thats going to be hard to do though. The bumper cover is made out of a flexible plastic and its going to be hard to fill those in in such a way that will be smooth and won't crack down the road.

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If they did it with bondo, yes...

but they would probably fill with mostly actual plastic.

cut the mounting holes and mounts out of the cover so they are flat. Just 2 square holes in the bumper.

get a piece of plastic and melt it in place, level with the surface, then sand smooth, then they would level with leveling compound (bondo LOL) and then prime and paint. at least thats how i always did things like this, its not that hard. any body shop who knows what they are doing can do it fairly cheap, id say $650 after paint.

Its just like a big, expensive Monogram model car :lol:

It would still have the ability to crack though, because there would be bondo at the seams. SW is mostly right, but there are ways (such as the one i described above) to minimize the risk. Melting the plastic to gether si the only way to ensure a strong bond so that cracking wont occur if a rock hits it. cause then the body work has to be re done.

Steve, i hope i dont come off as being difficult, simply adding to what you said. you have a valid point, but in this case, i believe it can be reduced to a marginal risk. B)

thats if they can heat up the plastic to contour it to the curve of the bumper. then they woudl use a solderig iron look alike to heat and melt the plastic at the edges and melt it together.

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I wonder if someone makes a bumper that this has already been done to...

Off topic, is that your car? Man you'd never know the paint condition...

yep thats blake's baby.

his is kinda like mine...at certian angles she hides her blemishes REALLY well. :cheers:

Blake, is that a 92-94 ES across the street? hiding in the bushes :P

Not sure if there is an aftermarket bumper steve. but the best thing to do if there isnt, is try to find a junkyard bumper that you can try it out on. then you still have yoru original if it doesnt work.

FWIW, the wiring and reconfiguration fo the blikers is going to be the most expensive part fo this. a custom moutning panel possibly would need to be made. then the fenders and wiring...could get spendy. but wiring is somewhat simple. i can help you with that blake.

oh, and who told your sister her accord could be in this photo?!!! :chairshot:

thast the only thing ruining otherwise a PERFECT photo of your LS. :lol:

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Off topic, is that your car? Man you'd never know the paint condition...

That's her alright(a really old pic). I think it's one of my best pictures! B) Certain angles and weather conditions either make the car look awesome or $hitty. Those pics I sent you were on an excessively sunny day which is why every blemish lit up like neon whereas this looks clear and partially sunny. It looks like that certian angle is not very far away either...weird. <_<

I wonder if someone makes a bumper that this has already been done to...

Off topic, is that your car? Man you'd never know the paint condition...

yep thats blake's baby.

his is kinda like mine...at certian angles she hides her blemishes REALLY well.:cheers:

Blake, is that a 92-94 ES across the street? hiding in the bushes :P

Not sure if there is an aftermarket bumper steve. but the best thing to do if there isnt, is try to find a junkyard bumper that you can try it out on. then you still have yoru original if it doesnt work.

FWIW, the wiring and reconfiguration fo the blikers is going to be the most expensive part fo this. a custom moutning panel possibly would need to be made. then the fenders and wiring...could get spendy. but wiring is somewhat simple. i can help you with that blake.

oh, and who told your sister her accord could be in this photo?!!! :chairshot:

thast the only thing ruining otherwise a PERFECT photo of your LS. :lol:

Sooo close, it's a '96 black on tan; I think it's something about that house because the last family that lived there had his and her's LS's(93 or 94)--lucky!!! Now do this, squint and you can see my ES and the suburban in the shine on the LS! :P Damn Honda!!!! I should learn how to use Photoshop and edit it out. :lol: I would have moved it, but I don't like driving manual trans! :D I got it from my mom....that's why she has a very special automatic trans Cobra! :whistles:

The wiring is the least of my worries(thanks for your offer too!)! My biggest concern would be that it's long lasting like Steve mentioned. That's a really good idea to toy around with somethings on an old bumper...sounds like something to do over the summer(watching the grass grow is starting to get old...keeps me busy for hours though!).

Thanks you guys!

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Steve-o, you are the MAN!!!!!!! :D It's about time you come back! :) It's weird seeing all of these great old members that have been gone for a while popping up out of the wood work(you, Mark, who is next?)! I see you haven't lost your Photoshopping expertise either!

:cheers:

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I have been busy with school lately.

Its been a while since I chopped something, and the car really does look better without the lights.

Hey, Blake did you get my PM?......................Everytime I send a PM, it never goes into my sent box!

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