gld98682 Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 After new OE struts, strut mounts, and spring insulators (all installed by an independent Lexus specialist), the classic "bad strut mount" noise remained - although not as loud. I turned to the dealer to solve the problem. They lubed the "bump stops" , and the noise is completely gone!!! The fix was no charge since the dealer had originally diagnosed the noise as bad strut mounts. Kudo's to Lexus of Portland Gary :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadmg7 Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 So are you saying that the noise could possibly just be caused by dry bump stops? Or that lubing them would at least minimize the noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gld98682 Posted November 6, 2004 Author Share Posted November 6, 2004 So are you saying that the noise could possibly just be caused by dry bump stops? Or that lubing them would at least minimize the noise? ← Strut Mounts cured SOME of the noise. Lubing the bump stops finished the job. Of course the question I will never know the answer to is...what if I had lubed the bump stops first??? Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahon Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 After new OE struts, strut mounts, and spring insulators (all installed by an independent Lexus specialist), the classic "bad strut mount" noise remained - although not as loud.I turned to the dealer to solve the problem. They lubed the "bump stops" , and the noise is completely gone!!! The fix was no charge since the dealer had originally diagnosed the noise as bad strut mounts. Kudo's to Lexus of Portland Gary :D ← NICE!! I live in portland too man!! Represent Ptown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friscoricky Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 does anybody know where is the "bump stop", because I have a same problem of my 97 ES300, wonder if something I can do myself. Thanks. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizmofanv Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 Whenever I go over the bumps, i hear thumpng noise? Looks like I do have the same problem on my 98 ES300. Does anybody know how to and what to lube them with? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeiLtYmE Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 hmmm... what is a bump stop ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Lex Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 Bump stops are the rubber bushings on top of your strut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 bump stops are round rubber bullets that sit on the shock rods so that under full compression from a "bump" it "stops" the shock from bottoming out and blowing itself out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friscoricky Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Base on the attached figure, I think it is the pieces called "Spring Bumper". In order to lube it, it seems like the whole “Struct” need to be removed, however, I might be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friscoricky Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 here it's the picture: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gld98682 Posted November 30, 2004 Author Share Posted November 30, 2004 Noise is still gone! This cure is the real deal nearly a month later! Don't know how the dealer lubed these, or with what, but they definately refered to them as "bump stops". I'm almost certain that the struts were NOT removed to lube them. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friscoricky Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 I'm thinking about replacing the "struct mount" to get rid of the clanking noise, but not sure if I need to replace the Struct itself as well, because the labor to replace one struct mount is $120 in Dallas area and then only cost extra $27.50 to get new struct in. (labor cost to get the coil out of the struct) So, the question is, with 83K miles on the 97 ES300, will it worth to replace the struct and the mount togather? I'm sure my struct is not bad yet, but just hate to see it wear out the next 5-10K miles, then it will cost $120 + $27.50 to replace it. Another question, will the new OEM struct make the ride like the new again. Thanks, Ricky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vcv10guy Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 Man that's really really cheap versus what my dealer wanted. They told me $1800-2000 to replace all four struts and the mounts!!! :o . Ya I have that stupid clunk sound too in the front suspension as well. At least my struts are okay for the most part. I'd probably just replace the struts and mounts at the same time. May as well since it's only another $27 and they have to remove the struts to get to the mounts anyway. Oh ya it should make it as smooth and nice riding as it when you first got the car. If your car is riding rough right now, then it will make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 for a mcv10 it should cost 400 for kyb shocks 300-400 for eibach springs and 150 to install nothing more than that for oem feel with less roll and lowered hardle enough to tell without a ruler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khhoang Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 for a mcv10 it should cost 400 for kyb shocks 300-400 for eibach springs and 150 to install nothing more than that for oem feel with less roll and lowered hardle enough to tell without a ruler ← would you recommend changing the strut mounts also while they're at it with the struts and springs for a 95 ES with all original suspension parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivinLrge Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 So did anyone ever find out what to lube the "bump stops" with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint_ex Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 does anybody know where is the "bump stop", because I have a same problem of my 97 ES300, wonder if something I can do myself.Thanks. :) ← It is fairly simple, yet to fix it can be pretty frustrating. First of all, you have to remove a wheel. Once you've done that, find something that looks like a horseshoe...it will be black, and on either end of the part, you will be able to find a screw. Unscrew it (this is where it gets tricky). Because this part is so close to the body, it is almost impossible to get to it. You have to be patient when using a simple wrench, as you will be able to do only less than a 1/4 of a turn with your wrench. Then once you have removed it (or at least loosened it, because putting it back on is a pain in the a**), jam something flat (screwdriver) and try to separate the rubber part from the pipe around it. Use your lubricant (you want to use the straw that came with it for easier reach), and spray it where your screwdriver is, i.e. in the gap. Feel free to spray lots of lubricant as it is very cheap and will not damage anything around it. Once you have done that, put everything the way it was. Now, here come the bad news...by now, you will have realized that it will take you at least 20-30 minutes (per wheel) to do this...and this is if you know what you're doing. Unfortunately, you might have to repeat this step several times. So, if you live in Canada like me, you might want to just take it in to your mechanic and have him fix it, otherwise you will freeze trying to do it in this weather. THese bushings are 15$ USD for 2 and they will charge you 1hr of labour...so this might be a better option for some. As far as the kind of lubricant that should be used, just go with a SILICONE based lubricant. Even better kinds are less than 10$ and you won't need more than 1/2 of a bottle in the worst case scenario. I hope that this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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