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I have the exact same problem. Exactly. I have had the rotors replaced at 30 and I need it again at 42k. It is rediculous. I have been told that the rotors they use are cheap and next time to replace them with American made rotors. I'm not sure that is possible.

This thread goes back a while. For me the story also goes all the way back to 2011. At the time I was looking at a 2000-2006 LS 430. But my wife really wanted the newer generation 2007 onward. We were looking at a 2008 LS at the time. I actually sat down with the chief mechanic at Lexus while getting my GS oil change, and he said the newer generation 2007+, LS. suspension cost of ownership is untennable. He also called the 2005 LS 430 "as close to perfection in an automobile you can come." At the time it didn’t really resonate. Later In 2015 we had a horrible experience with an Audi A8 and wound up purchasing a 2011 LS 460 RWD. By all accounts an amazing car incredibly comfortable great riding and quiet up to about 100,000 miles. Never had any other problems. That’s when the suspension noise is started happening. Typical front end rattle most common on very low speed below 25 mph shallow bumps. Like freeze cracks here in the south. A crack in the road that maybe heaves up a quarter inch. It produced a medium pitch clunk or clap. Lexus dealr said $7K to replace everything. Several mechanics said replace control arms. All told we changed out every arm except the stab links and stab bar bushing at 109K. The aftermarket stuff from Moog is fairly good. It reduced noise for a couple years. At 120K put complete strut stacks in along with new stab links. That made things a little bit better. Replaced the stabilizer links a second time. Slight improvement. All the while these mechanics continued to say keep replacing the entire front end. Ball joints have no play so we opted not to change the knuckles. We were lucky enough to be able to bring aftermarket parts to a shop and do this at a reasonable cost, but still not free. After spending a full day, truly troubleshooting which component is moving and causing the noise,these are my conclusions. Most common noise driver and likely wear point is stabilizer bar links. Second most common is the ride height sensor bracket. It has three pivot points with two of them small ball joints. After about 100,000 miles those ball joints weare out. On the 3rd pivot point next to the sensor there is a rubber bushing that shrinks alowing for more play. when the car heats up in the summer, the noise is almost unnoticeable. However, on a very cold day, this linkage rattled with the movement of the lower rear arm and would be quite loud. Once I changed this last piece my problem went away. My advice to folks that have a high mileage LS 460 RWD I would strongly recommend try to do as much troubleshooting as you can up front because none of these mechanics, even the dealers, have any idea how to isolate a component and they are fearful of the hourly cost to do so. They say replace the whole front end. That’s a nonstarter. I would start with the stabilizer bar links and immediately look at the ride height sensor bracket on the front driver side. From there you def want to check struts, ball joints, lower arms Tie rod ends and lastly upper arms for any movement while off the gound. Anything that moves should be changed even if noise is eliminated. If there is 0.020" wear in one of those pieces its going to amplify wear elsewhere in the linkage with this design escpecially on the bottom end. For folks with new vehicles less than 50000 miles with this linkage. Change the stab links and bar bushing at and every 60K. They are cheap. $50 bucks plus install Monitor the ride height bracket for wear and play. Its not cheap if you need to change it. Keep the ball joints lubed every 50K. It will need to be injected into the boot unless you drill a zerk on the bottom. If you can, opt for an AWD as the ball joints are modular and easily dropped out of the steering knuckle. These are fairly inexpensive if you find yourself having to go that route. All told still a fantastic vehicle. Once you get it up to speed above 30 miles an hour. it’s quite possibly the smoothest riding, quiet car in the road.

I have not done this, myself but found this answer by doing a quick search using Bing's CoPilot:

It is normal. It speeds up when you engage ac due to the extra load, almost all cars do that. There is a typo in my first post, it should have said just above 650 with ac on, 500 with it off. Sorry about that.

In drive with A/C on it idles at 750, only 500 with drive/ac off. I'm going to guess this is the normal idle for this vehicle.

If you have a multi meter check for power at the bulb sockets. Otherwise, try putting in a new fuse anyhow. Then try new bulbs. Do the easy cheap stuff first

Is your ac on at that idle? If it is and the car is idling smooth, no lumpiness, no hesitation when you step on the gas to leave, then your are fine. My GS 430 idled just above 550 in drive, with ac on. Same motor. My ls460 idles at about 850 to 900 under those same conditions and I would prefer if it idled a little lower, actually.

Thank you for the links. YES from what I can tell I can’t buy the rear sway bar bushings except from Lexus. That surprises me and wonder why? I found you links you sent. The cheapest was at Genuine OEM Lexus Parts. Checking on return policy and shipping. You are the only one that has replied to my Replacing Rear Sway Bar Bushings, but want to ask another question? Do I have to disconnect the end links to replace the rear sway bar bushings?

You can order a new antenna mast.

Many thanks, Dean2.

Noting that you can also pull the fuse for the 2 tilt motors. My tilt was dead so I took off the steering column and manually adjusted it then pulled the fuse.

I recently acquired a 2002 LS 430 with 65k miles from Seattle Washington after my 92 LS 400 was totaled (RIP we had a good run). Car is running fine and currently going through maintenance items, but I have one issue that bothering me. The car sits at 500 rpm when in drive only, park/reverse/neutral its at 750 rpm. I've read over several posts complaining about this same issue with no resolution, of course I've cleaned the TB and MAF since reading these posts. Is it normal for the LS 430 to idle in drive at 500 rpm? Anyone with a LS 430 let me know what their car idles at in drive? Any help is appreciated, thank you.

Book time to change the belt, tensioner and water pump on a 430 engine is 7 hours. Even if you have done a few, it will take you pretty close to that to change the parts and do a good job, by the time you burp the coolant, button everything up. Rock Auto sells the Aisin all in Kits for about the best price I could find, far cheaper than the dealer. My independent mechanic charges 135 an hour so basically 1000 for labour. I supplied the OEM coolant and Aisin kit. Had him flush the brake fluid at the same time. I was at the recommended mileage as well as just past the 12 year mark on age on my GS430. The belt was starting to show some cracking so it was definitely time. The vehicle was garage stored and only summer driven, so pretty much ideal conditions for extended life. Next one will get done at ten years, if it isn't at the mileage or at the mileage, whichever happens first.

Most punctures are tiny and can be easily fixed on the spot with sealant and an air compressor. Not that flats are happening as often today as 30 years ago; I have had no punctures the last very many years but still have a bottle of Quadboss sealant that can close holes long enough to get car to a place where a new tyre can be installed. The good thing with that sealant that is used on cars racing in deserts is that it is easily washed off with just water and not making a complete mess out of everything when tyre is taken off like sealants with latex. Latex on clothes mean new clothes and latex on tools mean several hours to get rid of the sticky thing. The sealant from Lexus is the stupidly sticking latex type. Why do I know it is good when not having had a flat for so many years? I have used it on mountain bike where I have had holes from thorns and lava several times a week. Never had to walk home, never had to fix a tiny hole in the tyres, never had to change tyre out in the mountains here. So if you are lazy (so am I) sealant is the thing to use for most flats. Important is that after pouring the sealant in the tyre you should drive 50 – 60 km/h for 5 minutes to have the sealant spread around evenly in the tyre and after that control air pressure. https://www.amazon.com/QuadBoss-Tire-Sealant-Gallon-0849/product-reviews/B000WK454K https://www.midwesttraction.com/store/c2294/tire-sealants/p46972/quadboss-tire-sealant-32-oz-atv--utv--530850/

Thankyou Dave for your response. I've had the vehicle nearly a year and don't recall hearing this straining sound. I guess I'll just check with Toyota to see if they may be able diagnose the problem first. I bought it second hand which is why I'm trying to avoid the awesome Lexus fees if at all possible!

Hello, My 1998 es300, license plate light bulbs dont work. The fuse is not blown.What is the problem

I see the tray and jack/tools under the rear cargo floor, just wondering if anyone has taken the trouble to pull everything out and see how difficult it is to remove the spare. And yes, I'm just being lazy at this point.

My TX 350 is approaching 5K after a little over four months. We're getting 20.3 on about 80% city driving.

I put tan in mine to lighten the floor area. I think they look good.

Did you contact the parts department person at the dealership? Or try one or more Lexus OEM parts sites, such as: https://parts.lexus.com/ https://lexuspartsnow.com https://lexusoeparts.com

I'm not sure if this description is perfectly accurate, but it may be worth a try/look:

2007 LX470, 4.7L V-8 Engine 2uZFE. Does anyone know the size of the bolts for the engine cover shroud? I need the one closest to the Rt. front of the cover. I seems to be a 6MM flange bolt, approx 6 in. long? I can't find a source anywhere and my local Lexus dealer is of no help.

Me neither. It's hard to understand his popularity.

I have a 2002 Lexus es300. Put battery in wrong. 120 amp fuse blew. I pull fuse out but cartridge came out but seem like blades are still in. I’m afraid to pull really hard. All the fuses I by are male. I don’t think there is a female. Should I pull harder . I hate to tear something up. Need advice

Can't stand Scotty....