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  3. Does anyone know if they are planning upcoming model year changes/updates to the LX 570. Want to buy one but do now like the current nav screen set up where it sticks up from the dash, its a bit better than some of the other manufacturers that do the floating screen, but something more elegantly built into the dash is a much better look.
  4. 2000 lx470 - the left door and upper tweeter are not getting sound, rear left is ok. not the speakers as I removed the door and tested the door speaker, so I'm guessing maybe an amp problem? Any help / idea would be much appreciated - actually thinking about a new system as I also have a stuck cd changer, but I certainly haven't found anything that is relatively easy or reasonable - - -
  5. Last week
  6. Will Lexus cover this year in my driver side door by the seatbelt. Also the cracked wood grain in the drivers side door panel & also center console around the ashtray the wood is cracked as well. I was reading in a FB group that Lexus corporate does cover this. Has anyone had this issue?
  7. Hi all, I seem to have the same problem as the OP. I have a 2001 LS430 (love it!) and put in an upgraded disk and got an error message. So I put back the original factory disk and still get the same "Disk read error. Check disk" message and can't click the "I agree". I tried the negative battery method suggested and it started reloading for a few seconds and then gave the same error message. Any other ideas? ... besides a trip to the dealer Thanks
  8. Some people live in canyon country. They drive pretty fast. Good quality sticky tires last about 20,000 miles under those conditions. Same with brakes. Some people are easy on brakes, some aren't. Being a Lexus leasee puts you in an usual category. Most Lexus owners think long term. Lexus cars have straight forward maintenance and they last. The biggest reason everyone in my family seems to have at least one.
  9. janet

    Selling a car

    I inherited a 1989 Lexus LS400 from a friend 3 years ago. He is the original owner and this car is his baby. Unfortunately, he can no longer drive. He took extremely good care of the car. He said it was one of the first to come off the assembly line. How he knew this I don't know but knowing him, I don't doubt it. I need to sell the car at this time but do not know how to go about doing it so that I will get a fair price. I consider the car a classic since the 1989 year was the first for the LS and it is 30 years old> Is this a good forum to use or is there a better site? This is my first time posting here and I'm not familiar enough with the site. I'm sure someone out there can help me with this. Thanks
  10. To add to this thread, I bought a 1999 LS400 with 78k miles, out of FL, in 2010 (I live in west Michigan). In the first 12 months, I had the timing belt replaced and was asked if I had EVER changed the oil, as it was that full of sludge. I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic since the day I owned, assuming either previous owner screwed it up, or the change in oils did something (unlikely). Overall it has run well for the past 7yrs, until the last week. Low oil pressure light started coming on intermittently. When it comes on, the lifters knock. When I restart the car it goes away for a period of time. Had the oil pressure checked and it measured 70psi. Last night I dropped the oil pan and found a nasty mess...1/4" of sludge in lower pan and solid crust in upper pan. Planning to flush engine tonight, refilling and crossing my fingers...but I fully expect to be buying my next vehicle sooner than I was planning.
  11. Hey! I don't know about the knock sensors yet, hopefully won't for a long time but, have you tried looking at the Club Lexus site for a solution? Here is a link which may be helpful: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-1st-gen-1999-2003/683664-p0330-knock-sensor-15-min-hack-repair-2.html I have always found lots of useful information there, as well as this site. Regarding your mileage of 12 to 14mpg after it being 28mpg: whenever you reset the computer the mileage will go higher then come down to match your driving habits, i.e., if you do mostly highway driving then you'll probably get higher mileage than if you drive in the city. After a computer reset I once showed about 48mpg, while I was on the highway and now it back down to 22mpg. You may also want to perform a complete computer reset as I once did. In the link below scroll down and you'll see what I did for a complete computer reset. https://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/92015-p0325-and-p0330/?tab=comments#comment-501958 I hope some of this may help. Don't give up on your RX300. Also, although I haven't tried this yet, you may want to check out your Toyota Dealer and see what the costs are for some of your parts. If I had the money I'd go to Lexus and if I didn't have alot of money I'd go to Toyota. Good Luck! I wish for you the best. I know you'll get it done with the advice from both of these sites. Don't give up! Once you get it running properly you'll love it. Take Care.
  12. I know this trend has a lot of about it already I have read most all of the ones I can find. I bought a lexus RX300 from someone that told me it had 55k on a brand new motor and everything was good but knock sensor came up with in a day code 300. Fist attempt cheap ones on ebay worked for a day. Second attempt ones purchased on ebay from a place in CO that came out of a RX 300 1999 these worked great for about 120 miles then it would fault for both banks 325 and 330. It would reset and I could get about 60 to 80 miles then come back up with both then it would come up with only 325. While waiting for a new harness I installed a bypass to ride off both signals into one it worked for 30 miles. Through out all this I talked to the guy I got it from he said the car had sat for a couple year in a field what makes sense of the rats nest I found on top of the sensors The first time. So this I just spent the last two days redoing it again using the same sensors and a new harness. Using multimeter I have checked all the wirring to the sensors and the black and white wires to the computer. I set the meter to dc millivolts and beat on the block both banks would show voltage changing. But when I plug the connector into the one that feeds into main wiring harness and do the same test I get nothing on the pins that feed the computer the white wires in pins 3 and 4 show the voltage changing but those ground out to the connector on the back of the intake manifold. I get nothing on pins one and three. Do not have an ossiliscope to properly test. Thought with Both sensors failing then moving tto one it was probably the other after market wiring harness. Note the sensors I am using now have 71 on them the ones I pulled out orginally had 71N on them Other issues is that I am not even sure what year the motor is I was only told it was brand new timing belt done 45K ago. After researching the pvc valve it had the new style metal one in it and they came out after 01 I believe. The valves had a lot of carbon build up on them cleaned all off at one point with bypass I was hitting 28mpg now I am hitting 12 to 14. Things I noticed during my testing through out looking at forums and other sites its says the shielding wires for to J10 I have no idea where that is but they ohm out to back of manifold. Not sure why I get nothing once the conecctor is connector to wiring harness unless the ecu is grounding them inside of it but the voltage will change when I move to white wires. One site I found says white wires connect to the computer not the back of manifold so maybe the 3.0 in this had a different set up then 1999 body. Since the car had sat for so long I have been running about four takes of premium first two with lucas gas treatment then one can bg44 last two with a little sea foam. I cant afford the oem sensors lost job due to no car thrn I got this and been beating my headd trying to figure out whats wrong the first time it was 330 after a while it was only 325 after the last new wringing harness install its back to both and only after two miles with the same sensors that were getting me 120 miles without code. If anyone has any input of other possible causes or where this J10 connector is to check out. I have also changed all the plugs and last time uses all new gaskets preformed a mfs cleaning and just got done doing the IAC cleaning lot of black stuff came out. Throttle body valves and intakes were all cleaned out first time around. Besides the rear brakes and doing thiese knock sensors three times there is a slight flicker in the gauges when I turn on the lights and not sure if its suppose to show a light on the dash but when I hit the power mode on gearshifter switch no light on das the snow one does work Please help I need top get this running right so I can get to work. and its getting cold I really don't want to do this again when its below zero with no garage. When the thing was running good with no codes it was great getting around through the woods and it got up and moved Also I did try swaping around some of the coil packs to see if it made any difference nothing When I finish getting it back together I was going to run some marvel mystery oil and sea form oin the oil for a day or so to see if maybe build up in the crank case is cccaudign them to go on and off Right now I am so fed up with the car had it for 6 weeks and haven't been able to drive it much at all. Im at the pointI would just like to get the knock sensors to go away for so can sell it if need be but I don't have another car. I know this is long but I have been at this for weeks now cant find the difference between 71 and 71N same manufacturer to paroind to buy anything else off line due to all the fake stuff. And with all money out on other things can't swing the 298 x2 for new sensors from dealer along with gaskets and another two days of labor. why did the sensors work for awhile then not after new harness wand why when using multimeter does it stop at connector but work on other two pins and if the motor did only have 55k why knocks out already and not clearing up after all the fuel treamtment.
  13. hello I have a body of rx300 1999 but the motor was swapped out with another yeart I am not sure if the things I am seeing from 2000 schematics are mating others pages I found The knock sensors are grounding out to the intake manifold but 2000 schematics show the shiel wiring going to J10 I have no idea where that is. Also some sites I have looked at are showing white wires going to the computer ohmed out the white and black they are goog but my knock senor signals are on the other pins
  14. We are contemplating buying a 1999 RX300 from a mechanic who is making necessary repairs. He is trying to figure out why the Check Engine light is on, throwing the O2 sensor error code, despite his having replaced both O2 sensors with Denso ones, and the plugs while he had the manifold off. Also replaced the alternator with a re-manufactured one. The car has 139K miles, and the tranny seems to be shifting properly. I suppose that either it is one of the "good" ones, or has been replaced previously. Anyway, guess I ought to keep $4K on reserve for a tranny if necessary. What about having a rebuild kit put in, instead of buying a new tranny? Are there any ways to flash the tranny firmware so as to make it more durable or otherwise improve it? Are there any brands of trannys available for this car that are better than others or better than OEM? thanks, guys.
  15. I would jump on that! Just paid 16000 for a 2007 with 117k miles.
  16. Hi, Since last week, as I have been going over speed bumps, I hear a sort of clunk/creak coming from the rear part of my car. I took it to the shop and they said I need new quick struts, sway bar bushing kit (rear), and sway bar link (rear). This (plus labor and wheel alignment) costs $2000 so I wanted to see if anyone has had a similar issue and knows if this is an urgent matter or more of a touch-up type of repair. Thanks.
  17. Need some help.I changed out throttlebody for an aftermarket one and keep getting this code P0505. My 2008 Lexus is250 idles at 2000 rpm cold start in the morning, then comes down around1000 RPMs in about five minutes after warmed up. I was having previous idol problems and that’s why I changed out my OEM throttle body to an aftermarket one. Anybody have any suggestions? Thank You
  18. I need the rear driver (left) door black caviar color (color code: 223) for 2017 Lexus IS300 as soon as possible. If anyone has that for sale please email me at beatadravitsa1001@gmail.com. Thank you
  19. Side note: We are only now replacing the remote battery after 14.5 years! Those Lexus engineers really know how to design efficient battery circuits.
  20. Get a CPO ES350 in year 2016 or 2017. It will come with a two year full warranty and can be had for $25k. Any Lexus or Toyota dealer can service it.
  21. I moved and due to HDD crash lost all of my forum info. But now have a 2016 ES350 and really like it.
  22. 15 minutes after driving it, 2012 RX 350 out of the blue won't start. Multiple warning icons or messages: check engine, check AWD, check SRS, check ABS and probably more.
  23. My 2019 owners manual calls for 91 octane gas that is TOP TIER rated. Neither of these (2) requirements are available in gasoline stations conveniently close to where I live. What do most owners use to keep the GX running as it should without gas containing the proper additives to keep the engine/valves deposits in check and eliminate engine knock?
  24. I have an 06 gs300. Lots of research reveals pcm problems very common causing shift problems. There are many companies that rebuild , see Ebay listings. Mine starts blowing through shifts quickly when warmed up. Ive soldered on the pcm. I may send it out. It is shifting better after resoldering the trans circuits , resistors in the pcm. Still not right though.
  25. My mechanic, I’ve known and used for several years and multiple cars, informed me that the ‘98 LS400 does clog and once replaced my check engine light goes off and I found my fuel consumption decreased and MPG improved too. (The only time my “check engine” light comes on is when it was time to replace the fuel filter.) It seems more than reasonable that filters are meant to capture detritus. Oil filters perform the same way yet I wager no one disputes the importance of changing that filter every X thousand miles. Since then I have been more interested in doing many maintenance acts on my own. With time, patience, following the steps and with the right tools anyone can do most of the simple jobs, to include replacing the fuel line filter. I always spray the bolts with degreaser/WD40 too.
  26. No throttle when 2000 GS300 heats up. Changed TPS and still having issues.
  27. If the TPMS sensors are the originals, they are at least 12 years old. Batteries in them often don't last nearly that long. Any competent tire shop has a tool that can determine which sensor(s) are the problem and their battery strengths.
  28. Hi, Thanks for sharing info. Where did you buy those A.R.T. cryogenically frozen slotted rotors from? how much were they?
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