Update:
I think I shorted something when I REconnected my battery to check the AC. When I checked the amprage coming from the fuse box with the car off and battery connected, the EFI fuse would read all over and the ECU B1 fuse reads between 55-56 mA consistently but starts off at 150+ mA. Also the alternator fuse was reading around 2 or so mA and about 1.7 mA to the radio that's not plugged in but I'm not sure if that was normal. I did also go buy a cheap OBD II reader (I noticed the MIL light turned on so I thought I should check it out) and it threw me a P1127. Looked that code up and I found out it was an open/short in my ECTS (but when I checked the apmrage at the fuse with the battery connected and car off, it read 0).
So I think my no start is because of a flooded engine due to the EFI and ECU drawing power with a battery connected and probably dripping gas in the cylinders. I also noticed that the whirring/humming can start before I try to turn the engine on by pushing the gas pedal but I don't think that the ECTS being open/shorted can cause a no start(?).
I was wondering if the open/short in the ECTS was in the ECU, the wiring harness itself, or both since when I push the gas pedal I can start the whirring/humming noise. I don't think the ECU is shorted because it threw the code so the open/short is in the harness itself and a power wire must have burned and fused the APS with the TPS since I can start the whirring/humming with the gas pedal (but can't stop it since the TPS would be grounded through the APS). If it is the harness, then why would the wires fail before the fuses? I thought that's what the fuses were for...
Any help/advice/confirmation would be much appreciated!!
P.S. if you guys were wondering, I wasn't paying attention when I reconnected my battery and I put the negative side on first then the positive side