Jump to content

  •  

Photo

Fix Your Egr Pipe In Just 2 Hours.


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 clacey

clacey

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 46 posts
  • Model: 91' LS400
Contributor

Posted 19 January 2004 - 09:22 AM

I've seen alot of posts regarding broken EGR pipes so I thought I'd just make a seperat post. I was able to remove mine, braze it and reinstall it in under 3 hrs total. Alot of that time was some thinking, a trip to home depot for a small oxygen tank, brazing and testing for leaks.

Here is how you do it:
Take a 12mm open/closed faced wrench and tie a 3'-4'string or wire to it. Trust me. Just do it. After you drop the wrench for the 4th time you will know why. You will have to do this blindly. with your hand follow the EGR pipe down until you feel the bracket that connects it to the engine. There is one screw. there is VERY little room and you'll have to reall squeeze to get there. now you know where it is. Now take the wrench to it. put the closed end of the wrench over the bolt and carefully remove your hand leaving the wrench over the bolt. You'll neeed some leverage to break it loose initially. I used another wrench to put the open end of one into the closed end of the other to get more leverage. once you break it loose it's just patience. This bolt alone will run about 30-45 minutes. Once it is off, disconnect the two ends and pull it out the top of the engine.

Once out, I cleaned and preped the TWO LARGE cracks for welding/brazing. I had bought a small Mapp gas and Oxygen set from Home Depot for about $50.00 some months ago and now it was time to get my money's worth from it. If you don't have one of these things, they are very cool and inexpensive. They get VERY HOT You can actually weld with them. I used a Flux coated Bronze rod and brazed the cracks. I put it into water closed off one end with my hand and blew into it to check for leaks. There were none so I reinstalled. I would NOT recommend using JB Weld. It is great for hi-temp but not for vibration.

The only issue is that I have been unable to reconnect the center bolt. I thought that might happen. I'll try again later but I really don't think it is that big of a deal. I have also heard that you can reach the bolt from the bottom of the car as well.

Now that I have done it, it would probibly only take about an hour to do.

How did it work, you might ask. G R E A T! My car is back to sounding like a Lexus rather than a 1973 Ford LTD.


It feels good to finally make a worth while contribution to this great site.

Enjoy,

CL

Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...

 

#2 JPI

JPI

    Dedicated Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 680 posts
  • Model: One client at a time

Posted 19 January 2004 - 09:53 AM

I'm glad you fix it  :cheers: .
JPI

#3 tansupplyman

tansupplyman

    Advanced Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 492 posts
  • First Name:Richard
  • Model: ES350
  • Year: 2008
  • Location: North Carolina (NC)

Posted 19 January 2004 - 10:13 AM

Clacey--good post; will now try on mine[before I order the new pipe]; it is tight I know.
Did get a price, for info, on this stuff[below]; may stop at the Lexus dealer and get new gaskets for each end.
But may be a while before I do it--will advise here what happens,whenever.
tks again

RICHARD
HERE ARE THE PRICE QUOTES YOU HAVE REQUESTED FOR YOUR 1993 LS400...
EGR PIPE 25601-50010---$116.14
EGR PIPE GASKET 25634-50010---$0.74
EGR PIPE GASKET 25628-50010---$3.37

SHIPPING DETERMINED BY DOLLAR AMOUNT ORDERED. PLEASE SEE SHIPPING
CHART ON ORDER PAGE.
TO ORDER, PLEASE GO TO OUR LEXUS ORDER PAGE www.irontoad.com/l_ord.htm
AND JUST FOLLOW THE PROMPTS TO ORDER.


#4 99lsguy

99lsguy

    Guru Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,479 posts
  • Model: 1999 LS400

Posted 19 January 2004 - 12:12 PM

Clacey,

Good job and post. Thanks for the report.

I think JPI mentioned earlier that you could get to the bottom bolt with 1/4" Pivot/flexible ratchet - from underneath.

#5 wwest

wwest

    Guru Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,783 posts
  • Model: 1992 LS400, 2001 RX300, 2001 911 C4

Posted 19 January 2004 - 02:14 PM

The EGR tube is stainless steel, at least mine is, and has an "accordian", expansion/contraction, area to relieve the stresses of continuous vibration. You can call me a doubting thomas but I find it hard to believe that brazing the broken joint will stand up for very long.

Just take out the bottom half and use a hammer to flatten and then bend it over so its completely blocked and reinstall.

#6 clacey

clacey

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 46 posts
  • Model: 91' LS400
Contributor

Posted 19 January 2004 - 02:14 PM

I believe that you are correct and I think that you could but it seemed to work a little better for me to go at it from the top. I might try to re-install the center bolt from the bottom as JPI mentioned. I'll let everyone know if it works better.

CL

#7 jzz30

jzz30

    Guru Member

  • Super Moderator
  • 2,035 posts
  • Model: UCF10/UZZ30/AP2

Posted 19 January 2004 - 04:05 PM

how thick is the pipe?

#8 clacey

clacey

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 46 posts
  • Model: 91' LS400
Contributor

Posted 19 January 2004 - 04:53 PM

My EGR (92 year mod) is not stainless. It's regular steel. It took the weld with no problems.

Pipe Wall Thickness: I'd say that the pipes wall thickness is about 1/16" it thins to about 1/32" in the bendable area which is, of course, where they break.

CL

#9 jzz30

jzz30

    Guru Member

  • Super Moderator
  • 2,035 posts
  • Model: UCF10/UZZ30/AP2

Posted 20 January 2004 - 04:05 AM

hmmm.... bit hard to weld for me then its kind of thin.... well i will give it a try when i get around to it

#10 clacey

clacey

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 46 posts
  • Model: 91' LS400
Contributor

Posted 20 January 2004 - 08:57 AM

Yeah, it's not very thick there. That's why I used a small torch and brazed it. Of course, both of my cracks were located in the recesses of the "accordian" area, which makes it a little more challenging. Even with the torch, I did blow a small hole in it but I was able to fill it in. Just be careful with the heat. I don't think that I would weld it with a regular welding machine. It would probably blow a hole in it. Unless you are better at welding than I, which isn't saying much.

My logic to braze it rather than replace it was this:
I suspect that they crack due to the fact that they stay under constant stress and tension when bent into place and bolted along with vibration. when they finally crack, the stress and tension is relieved. By brazing it, it stays in the relaxed state and you just fill in the holes. Less likely to break again because it has already relieved the stress. With a new one, you would bend it which would add tension and it will crack again with some time.

Any input or comments regarding this logic? Does it seem solid?

I guess if the braze doesn't hold, I can just replace it. It wont be the end of the world.

CL

#11 JPI

JPI

    Dedicated Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 680 posts
  • Model: One client at a time

Posted 20 January 2004 - 09:31 AM

I never try to do this on the top. But if you have a lift, It would be great to do it from the bottom.
www.jpimportz.org

#12 clacey

clacey

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 46 posts
  • Model: 91' LS400
Contributor

Posted 20 January 2004 - 09:38 AM

Yeah. I don't have a lift so I had no manuverability from the bottom. If you could get it off the ground, I suspect it would be easier to come from below. Coming from the top isn't fun but it is possible.

CL

#13 99lsguy

99lsguy

    Guru Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,479 posts
  • Model: 1999 LS400

Posted 20 January 2004 - 10:04 AM

Clacey,

What about the front wheels up on ramps and using the "creeper". Would that be possible?

99

#14 chips229

chips229

    Advanced Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 201 posts
  • Model: Mk1 Aristo TT Auto
  • Location: Please Select

Posted 04 April 2004 - 12:53 PM

ive spoken to a lexus fitter about this pipe and hes told me it very very important to put the 10mm bolt back in or the job would need doing again soon.

#15 SCoupe

SCoupe

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 64 posts
  • Model: SC300-5sp Supra TT 2jz-gte bpu+

Posted 19 June 2004 - 02:04 PM

Here's a question for those in the know: Is there an easy way to close off the egr that is reversible for the smog check/inspection? In CA, they will check for a funtioning erg. This would need to be reversible for that event.

Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...


Not what you're looking for?

Register now, we have a huge community of enthusiasts to answer any questions you might have